Mopar1973Man

This should get you covered... http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/maint/2nd_Gen-12v.htm 12V require more valve adjustment that 24V... But here is my write up for a 24V and it really close to the 12V... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cumm ... ve-adj.htm

Oh Boy the document I was looking for... Quick summary of why IP pump and injections fail in Bosch eyes is the fuel lubricity is too LOW!!!! Here you go gang Bosch did testing on USA fuel and don't even come close to the standards of Europe fuel... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=cat&id=5

If the rear e-brake shoe or out of adjustment the pedal doesn't alway return properly either... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cumm ... -brake.htm But typically in cold weather the cable does get stick and hang up. Sometimes you just got to park it a in a warm shop and wash the cables down and the dirt and grit off them. Then the pedal returns normally. I have this problem out here in the cold days of Idaho. I start out in Riggins, ID where is 45*F and raining and head back to New Meadows, ID where its 20*F and snowing now all that road grime and ice is form up on the cables. Now I set my brake (manual trans) and park it for the night. Next morning the brake won't release properly. BRAKE light on yet and the pedal hanging down...

Well so far this winter I've been down to about 0*F with SuperTech and no issues either. Not to mention my AirDog 150 is unheated and no problems with filter plugging... :thumbsup

2.479 here in Riggins, ID if the Chevron was open... :rolleyes Now i'm below 1/4 tank and getting down to the point were I start sucking air below 1/8 of tank... :mad Oh well... Live and learn...

Possible... It always possible to have a tank of poor produced fuel... :confused:

Like I read over that PDF already... The biggest thing is the viscosity of the fuel changes spray patternes of the injectors. So as the B5 starts thickening up the pattern narrows... It seem like all BIO fuels have a short comings... Like ethanol is greatly reduced in BTU content. BioDiesel is also short in BTU content, gels easy, cause injector problems if produced wrong.... viewtopic.php?f=14&t=117

Well without much for information... Bad ground, weak batteries, weak charging system... (Possiblity) Loose or corroded wiring... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cumm ... ircuit.htm (This will work anywhere in the electrical system for testing weak connections or bad wires!) Heat effecting the electronics (VP44 or ECM) but error codes typically point this out. Fuel pump problems... No the little white plastic hub isn't suppose to come out... It's glued in at the factory but most of the fuel additives tend to break down the glue and the plastic hub starts to spin inside the hub so you hear the pump buzz but it doing nothing. This can happen randomly too..

I think a bunch of mine is these Cooper STT tire and running them slightly soft right now for winter traction. But as for my front end It still feels tight but is seem to wander back and forth in the trucker grooves in the asphalt... Or is it just the highway my problem??? :confused:

Hmmm... Sound like a few possible thing could be happening... Cam or Crank sensor is going out on you... If the tach drops to zero usually the cam or crank sensor is to blame but typically there is a error code. P1693 means there is a error code in either ECM or PCM or both. That all the code means... But if you using a code reader like a ScanGauge II it should pickup all the codes for you... As for the lack of power that automatically points to fuel supply problem either the lift pump, VP44, or filter is plugged Here is how to test your lift pump... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cumm ... p-daig.htm You need to keep at least 10 PSI at the VP44 to keep it happy... As for the previous APPS post well that would have a P0121, P0122, or P0123 error code pointing to failed APPS...

About how much did it cost???

Fixed...

There is no reason for injector cleaners... If there is a concern of dirt entering the injecotrs that upgrade your fuel filter to 2-3 microns once you done that there is zero concerns for injector cleaners ever again. But as for the fuel lubricant... Today's fuel is short in fuel lubicity and will remain that way for a long time. So 2 cycle oil should be used every tank... Mixing any cetane booster, injector cleaner, or anti-gel with 2 cycle oil just cancels out the 2 cycle and the additive... Cetane Booster - Increase cetane levels and reduces BTU's 2 Cycle Oil - Decreases Cetane and increase BTU's Injector Cleaner - Decrease lubricity 2 Cycle Oil - Increases lubricity

For those guys that have filter minders or BHAF with a filter minder. I made a short video how to test your filter minder... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/ ... f/bhaf.htm You'll find that the suction is about the same amount as would put on a drinking straw in a large drink. EDIT LINK corrected...

Got ya cover with a write up on how to replace and where to find a cheap one for less than $200 bucks! :thumbsup http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cumm ... s/apps.htm Retro-fit APPS sensor for less! :thumbsup http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cumm ... cement.htm

Remember you got the holes in the bumper and then the gap between the grill and bumper. so no it takes quite a bit to over heat it... But it block and lot of cold air from blowing in.

First of WELCOME to MOPAR1973MAN.COM Yeap that is over kill... Let say the fill up was 25 gallons of fuel... So at 128:1 ratio should of been 25 ounces of oil (Heaviest mixture) And at 200:1 ratio should of been 16 ounces of oil (tyipcally where most 3rd gen get ther best...) And at 256:1 ration should of been 12.5 ounces of oil (lightest mixture) Here is the math for it... Convert gallons of fuel to ounces... 128 x (Gallons of fuel) = Ounces of fuel Ratio fo fuel to oil... 3,200 Ounces (Fuel) / 200 (Ratio) = 16 Ounces

Thread got old so the new write up is here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/injectors/injectors.htm Yeap and even got pics... :thumbsup

Adding anthing thing to your fuel can be illegal...ATF, WEO/WMO, WVO, 2 cycle oil, gasoline, kerosene, JP8, Jet-A Etc... If its not Diesel it not legal... Yes if you are dipped you could be fine...But this is a risk I'm willing to take to protect my fuel system with a small dose of 2 cycle oil.But if there so willing to bust people boy I'm in a bad place... I'm sittinig here with my web site advertising my address and phone number... Come and get me! But after 3 years of being on the web and forums... Nothing has happened... The local cops even in truck know I do this... 8| I'm not worried... :D

ScanGauge II doesn't show the MAP sensor value correctly... It about 28.6 PSIA at idle and tops out at about 37.7 PSIA... Normal atomsphere should be 14.7 PSIA then 30 PSI of boost should be (30+14.7) which is 44.7 PSI. I'm current trying to find a alternate XGauge for that problem... P0236 - Map Sensor Too High Too Long Problem detected in turbocharger wastegate. Do you have a smoke switch? If so and leaving it on will cause this error... Do you have a enhancement box (Edge comp)? Unplugging the MAP sensor does the same thing as a smoke switch. By chance could you fill out you signature I could help you out better... ucp.php?i=profile&mode=signature

Ok here is some light on the subject... Here is what Eric at ATS had to say... Well this adds a change of heart for me... It not cool for a person to raid you email for information and publicly post information that could ruin your business...

Wow! We are having a heat wave today... 22*F LOL But in a couple days we'll be back down to -7*F... :mad Now as for the weather part... I just got done on the phone trying to get ITD (Idaho Transportation Dept) to come down and plow in front of the fire shed. Then just thinking about the cold... How in the hel to you keep a fire truck from freezing up while you travel to a fire? Passed it on to my Assistant Chief... No answer yet but since my mind was clickin' I got him think about calling the hot shot cre together and train us properly for cold weather fire fighting. The other problems is how do you stop a 40K pound fire truck on ice? (I know very carefully!) Then how do you drive one that is 2 wheel drive only and no chains??? (Make it more interesting!) But all of our 6 wheel drive militaries are to far for me and parked on top of a mountain currently (chained up!).Oh then some of our trucks rarely get used but what if the fuel tanks are filled with summer fuel at -7*F??? (Think it will gell? Good bet!) So there considering getting PS 911 and PS White bottle for these trucks. As I point out to him I've had good luck with winterized fuel and 2 cycle oil... But as for sumerized and 2 cycle oil I don't think will work! I got the higher heads thinking on this now... LOL

The orignal source of this leeter for me was from CF.com at... http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/off-t ... s-epa.html Personally I think this is wrong... :nono

Well so far we are down to 0*F to 5*F above for low temps... Like yesterday we barely made it 14*F as a high... Man it sucks when you park a truck outside and the ice freezes to the hood and there not enough engine heat to thaw it out... :confused

Picture help... Take a look for some reason the pics are fine here...