Mopar1973Man

100 dollars a tune. I will update as many times as needed in 30 days. There is several other factors needs to be looked at. Like final ratio needs to be 3.55 to 3.73 after tires. Like Beast I went from 265/75 R16 to 245/75 R16 which is one inch smaller but changes to a final ratio of 3.69:1 after tires. Optimal IAT is 80 to 140°F Optimal thermostat 200°F (experimental) Optimal fuel temp <140°F Optimal cetane <45 cetane

When I've created tunes that allow me to cross the entire state of Washington from Seatlle to the Idaho border for only 1/4 tank of fuel I'd say I've got the efficiency part down to a science. The difference is I build for efficiency 1BadVp44 builds for racing. Rules are different for both.

Most likely not the Edge Comp. But yes unplug it all and retest and see if the code returns. Majority of P0216 codes are because the fuel lubricity is poor and the timing piston will sieze.

Another trick turn off the Quadzilla complete and run level 0 for a few days and make note of the timing at different RPMs. Now, I can tell you stock is 20 to 21 degrees of timing at 2,000 RPM. The whole idea is to provide that extra timing to make it more efficient not to retard the timing to make it even worse. This is why I'm giving clues on how to figure out timing. Optimal timing engine oil temperature should be at least 30*F cooler than coolant. Optimal timing will have the LOWEST engine for at speed. Optimal timing will have the LOWEST EGT's for at speed. The best way to learn timing and its curves is to watch stock values for a few weeks and then build a tune that closely follows stock and now starts advancing equally up the RPM. If you are stepping by +3, +4, or +5 degrees per band that way to have an even curve following RPM's.

Trick. Figure a point like your 15 PSI of your wire tap. Now ramp up the fuel map from 100% to 150% from 15 to 30+ PSI of the fuel table. Now there should be a stock 100% realm from say 5 PSI to that 15 PSI of the table. This allows for a wide range of stock power cruise state that not adding fuel more or less running on the injectors only. This keep efficiency up. Now when you dig in the throttle and boost builds past 15 PSI CanBus is ramping up at the same time as the wiretap stack that 180 HP on and could possibly spin a tire. My truck at 45 MPH 4th gear climbing 7% grade Beast has be known to roll a bit of blue smoke off the tires. Does it work? Heck yeah it does! I've scared a few friend haulin' up that canyon.

If it was a 24V... Quadzilla would be a huge help being you could build a towing tune that is a bit more retarded so the turbo is kept spooled more. That being said when you set up the pump timing don't advance much maybe like 14° BTDC then that would keep the EGTs down. Now on the 24V I'm going build a towing tune basically what I said that is more retarded in the low RPM to bring launching power then create a small advance cruise realm but very little because excessive advance timing with boost is a good way to blow head gaskets. Either was the basic concept is there for either old school P-pump without dynamic timing and 24V with dynamic timing. Both styles still run on the same rules, retarded timing puts more expanding gases into the turbine on the turbo, more advancement burns more in the cylinder, boost is decreased, being there is less expanding hot gases being the was all consumed in the cylinder as work. The topping on it all. Watch your engine oil temperature. If your oil temperature is lower than coolant your not sweating heat off in the cylinder walls the coolant stays cooler and more heat is removed from the engine oil. A little bit of logging data or just watching oil temps and finding the sweet spot for a P-Pump is challenging to say the least.

Sadly, that tune is not going to work very well at all. Too retarded in timing all the way. Wire tap set up wrong won't work correctly. Then fueling table is set up incorrectly. NOTE: Even the stock ECM tune can hit 30 degrees of timing its just a matter of WHEN. NOTE: Min / Max TPS should never be the same being wire tap will only work at 75%. <75% and >75% wire tap is disabled. NOTE: 100% fuel table entry is just say mirror stock. Any value above 100% is adding fuel. Any value below 100% is cutting fuel. NOTE: Like usual most try to bring the wire tap in too early and not have a supporting fuel table to aid in power. (Cut rate fuel table) Just for point of reference... 66 MPH for Beast is 2,000 RPM's with my 7x0.010 injectors popped at 320 bar I'm at 24* to 26* of cruise timing and EGT's are below 600*F. Your current cruise timing is 15.9 degrees at 2,000 RPM only if engine load is <20%.

Problem it will not acquire heat from the intake manifold like the OE fuel filter does. This is a bonus come winter time so your dependent of electric heaters for longer than needed. Once the housing warms then the heater shuts off.

Strange your going cooler when I'm going hotter and using 200°F thermostat in Beast. More I added heat the better the efficiency and quieter the engine. Optimal intake temperature is 80°F to 140°F. Then I'm running 200°F to 220°F coolant temperatures and timing is 24° to 26° at 2,000 RPM. Remember being I'm popped 320bar I'm a few degrees retarded. Colder seems to require more timing and also the thermodynamics will shed more of your power into cold coolant jacket. Strange part even with the hotter coolant I'm still 30°F cooler in engine oil showing I'm not sheding much cylinder heat at all.

ISSPro might work too you would have to ask Quadzilla if the impedance will be correct so the pressure display is correct. This is the only reason I don't like screwing around because the wrong sender will produce wrong values and accuracy will be lost.

@Tractorman knowing you close to me. You could try Idaho Drivetrain in Boise Idaho. I'm not sure if they could repair axle or if will they just swap axles. https://idahodrivetrain.com/ (208) 475-2774

Contact BD and see if they will send a screw and nut.

No. The signal is shorted to ground which produces the -40°F. When the signal is open and no ground present then the value will be 240°F. Being grounding the signal wire will drop to 0V (-40°F) and open signal will be +5V (240°F)

Same here. AZ and O are cheap China parts that tend to fail often and have lots of lifetime warranty like my Clutch Hydraulics. My problem is AZ and O are 250 mile round trip where NAPA is 75 mile round trip I might pay more for the parts but I don't have to change them as much. Like a NAPA 375-190 thermostat will out live AZ or O or Cummins. Better products for slightly more money. Oh yeah Napa thermostats have been upgraded 6 times since 2002 when I bought my truck. Just for fun I'll never buy a Cummins head gasket being Cummins don't manufacture the gasket but a company called BLK out China does. Quality? I've had a Cummins gasket delaminate and blow out in less than 1k miles.

Yeah I see. But the whole cock8ng and getting crooked is more of a problem with people that don't have that special seal tool. I've managed to change 3 seals on Beast from the front which allows you to gauge alignment as you start and always tap on the high side of the seal. There is a lot I don't do exactly like the FSM. Like changing VP44, and other common task that I figured other ways that work for common tool guys. Like me don't have the seal tool as shown. So you'll be beating with a small dowel or simular on the inside rim and it will distort seal. There is more meat for just using a small ball pen hammer and just nicely light taps on the rim where it's strongest.

This is why if you use the proper 80w-140 gear lube like I get from NAPA is already properly mixed friction modifier and GL-5 lubricant. I'm still pretty sure as the test showed 75w-90 just being the wrong fluid. You can download the FSM book from the download area and fluid specs are listed in the first little bit of the book.

Seal should go in from the front side not back. Like I said I typically like up the dust lip with the groove in the crank. Unless the oil seal part of your crank is getting too thin. Maybe?

Not to ... This is exactly why I'm telling people with manual transmission quit using the stock fluids which are to thin for high HP usage. When your putting down more HP and more TQ the thin fluids can't protect metal parts when the lube oil has thin way out at 200°F during operation. Same holds true on rear axles you need to be thicker.

Yes. You can pull the dampener and run the truck for several minutes without worry. It will take awhile for the coolant to heat up 6 gallons.

Limited Slip Differentials require 80w-140 synthetic not 75w-90 which is too thin and might be the cause of damage. Just for fun... check out the conversion between engine oil and gear oil.

I always put the seal back in the same position. This way the wear groove lines up with the dust lip and the seal lip is back in the smooth spot. Never leaked on my truck. Now if you do the sleeve you must change the seal and sleeve together being the different dimensions. Also be aware when removing a sleeve is a PITA because you have to score it with a chisel and hopefully get behind it with a small screwdriver to hopefully tear it in half. I avoid using sleeves if at all possible being it just makes the next seal change a PITA later to do. I typically get the NAPA crank seal with the tapered installing tool that way you don't tear up the seal lip trying to get it over the crank tip which I'm kind of betting you tore the seal lip. Be aware it suppose to be installed DRY! NO LUBE!

Would of seen it in the boost value on the Quadzilla. Possibly a code could be present.

So you need to go to NAPA and get a pigtail for the that MAP sensor. Dielectric grease is known for collecting grit too.

Hmmm. At least out here with salt the bearings fail quicker being you can't push the salt out of the bearings. I might get 50k from a seal u-joint because of salt issues. My rear shaft is just getting a bit of wobble from salt issues.

Trip points 32°F IAT with grid heaters on. 6 CYL 15°F IAT with grid heaters on. 3 CYL