Mopar1973Man

Guess we need to dig a bit more.

First thing rip that BD noise filter off the truck and toss it in the trash. That is going to burn up your VP44 and ECM. Second off you need to test and replace your current alternator if it's weak or excessive AC noise. Then do the W-T ground wire mod. Takes about 25 dollars and about 1 to 2 hours time. No its going out because of the AC noise filter you installed. You trying to cover up a AC noise issue that is affecting transmission, ECM, PCM and the VP44. Pull the noise filter off and replace the alternator and do the W-T ground wire mod.

Sector adjustment I run the Allen stud to bottom then count 1.5 to 2.0 turns back out. If it will not turn you have to lightly tap on the output shaft with a rubber hammer to allow the Allen stud to lift the shaft weight. That way you are really close to right you can go just a touch tighter but not much. You want just a little free play from left to right.

PCM works off of IAT temperature on the 12V for setting the grid heater to heating. Is the bulb blown? I know the IAT has to report below +60*F to turn on the grid heaters. Wait To Start light should come on every key cycle for a bulb check.

If the PCM is damaged there is no way to get the CCD Bus problem to go away. I would at least do some checking and see if you are getting 2.49 and 2.51 volts on the CCD + and CCD - pins versus ground. This is the normal rest voltage of the CCD Bus after all the modules stop talking. Then the instrument cluster is the device that sets this bias voltage of the bus.

I've seen a 46RE and a 47RE struggle to handle Idaho mountain roads. Both cases run like 15 to 25 MPH running up a narrow single-lane road at grades of 12% to 16% on average and these transmissions are not designed to run unlocked in 2nd gear forever. Lil' Red I've managed to run that transmission rather hot a few times trying to just get to the next pullout so I was not shut down in the middle of the road. I have a few client trucks running hot as well on the same road system. You just can't run 15 to 25 MPH on a dirt road with an unlocked torque converter that is just churring heat out. Auto's were not a good option for towing and climbing long mountain grades. The only way I can see getting around this would be to send your valve body to Dynamic Transmission in WA and have him modify the valve body so you have lock up in every gear. This way you can manually call for lock-up in any gear and that would cut the heat. Manual transmissions hold up to the mountain roads way better than any automatic. Braking resistance is better and coupled with an exhaust brake it's even better. In my two trucks I can drive almost anywhere and not really ever touch the service brakes very much. A good reason I get 200k to 250k miles out of a set of brakes and rotors.

There is a lot going to start happening again here. I know without a doubt I've got to change servers and get on to a server with up-to-date technology again being I've worn another server out to the point it can't be upgraded to current versions. This poses a problem with the new operating system I'm moving to I've never worked with before. Great something all new and different to learn about. Then the new server will have AlmaLinux compared to CentOS 7 Linux. Then Almalinux doesn't have WHM/cPanel server interface which Almalinux will move over to InterWorx for a control panel. This is going to take me some time to do. Yeah, I've got to move very soon being the software is warning that no longer updating software and that time is running out. I'm going to most likely have some ups and down days with the changeover and configuring and relearning a whole new system. Then I found out that Invision Power Board which is my software provider is ditching 3rd party marketplace and no longer going to host 3rd party software under their roof at Invision Power Board. I now have to figure out how to handle all the 3rd party software I've got on the website right now. Then I've got articles to build and winter time coming. First I've got to say I'm closing down on my jobs I've got a few loose ends left to handle but no biggy. I'm also working on getting my winter's wood brought in. As soon as I've got these few things done I'm planning on being anchored to this keyboard here at home. I've got 4th Gen articles to build I've got a few articles to build for 3rd Gen trucks. I've got new vendors and shops to add to my list here. I've got a lot to do this winter.

Sensor is replaceable there is a article in the fuel section with the part number. I know that @dieselautopower has a full module replacement too.

Both are correct. If a bad pressure regulator check ball or valve it's possible to bounce of the needle. Another one that the lift pump could do is if it does not have air separation like AirDog or FASS it's possible to see air bubbles being passed along by the pump like the stock lift pump or Raptor or DDRP series pumps that don't have air separation systems. This could stem from poor suction lines back to the tank and it will continue to draw air into the inlet of the pump and continue to bounce because of air being pulled in. I've seen stock fuel baskets the plastic tube does crack open and suck air in while the fuel level is lower than the crack in the tube in the sender. The bad sensor could do it as well. Being mine when it finally failed last month it was a bouncy needle and then started to rise till it was pegged out showing 30 PSI. I've got many years of service out of that one electronic sensor for fuel pressure on my ISSPro EV2 series.

I had another VGT turbo to replace on a 3rd Gen Truck. Still not an easy task for truck owners to do. First off I have been getting my replacement rebuilt turbos from @dieselautopower and they have turbos in stock that are already calibrated and ready to install. Now like any other turbo install we have to remove all surrounding tubing and air ducts hooked to the turbo. The air filter and air intake all get removed and the discharge tube goes to the intercooler. Next step you might want to drain the coolant down. Yup, there is a coolant line between the turbo and they are on both top and bottom. The bottom two connections are a pain in the rear to get at. I'm going to give away a secret take a crowbar and push that heat shield right up against the engine mount. Remove both the oil and coolant supply top side) and oil and coolant returns (bottom of the turbo). Remove the rear elbow on the exhaust in this case I only detached the exhaust elbow and had plenty of room to get free and out of the way. Now the last step on the turbo is the 4 nuts holding the turbo to the exhaust manifold. These are stainless nuts and my magnetic induction wand doesn't work on those. Back to propane torch and PB blaster. Now you going to find out there is no way to get the turbo off the studs of the manifold because there is no room for the turbo to drop far enough to clear the studs. Now here is where most people might come up short. I break the passenger side engine mount loose and then using a cherry picker lift the engine from the front engine mount just enough that the turbo can be removed and lifted out of that tight pocket the turbo sits in. So tool-wise wise everything can be done with standard tools. I will warn I've seen a video where people change VGT turbos by cutting the studs off with a saw-all and then deal with the stud removal later after the turbo is removed. I'd rather not make a bigger mess and have to cut these and just lift the engine a little bit and gain the room needed to change the turbo.

3.30:1 final ratio with an extra tall 4th gear at 0.68 compared to manuals at 0.75 or 0.73. This is a huge amount of stress on clutches and bands.

Well if your running stock tires or smaller then you could opted for quick ratio steering box through Blue Top Steering. Don't attempt to use a quick ratio with larger than stock tires it will damage the steering box. You could get a rebuild kit for your steering box and rebuild it yourself. Not hard to do but if there is any damaged parts your going to need to contact Blue Top for said damaged parts.

If the fluid isn't foaming then it another problem. Could be a damaged power valve in th3 steering box. It could be a pump issue where the regulator is sticking open dumping pressure needlessly.

Transmission wise usually weak because of poor final ratio that puts huge stress on bands and clutches. VP44 I've never been plagued by VP44 issues as long as you do not pump out of the sender basket where all the hot fuel returns too. Then the W-T ground wire mod to deal with AC noise issues. Add a 128:1 ratio of 2 cycle oil to boost lubricity of the fuel which the Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel created the problem back in 2006. Then run quality 3um filter if you can to keep dirt out of the pump.

Check for fluid foaming. Typically air in the fluid makes the noise and pulsation in like the brake and/or steering.

If you do the power steering flush correctly it right it should not have any way to plug up or damage the power steering pump. My current method which works well and has zero issues is jacking up the front axle just to get the front tires barely off the ground. Now remove the steering box return and cap the nipple on the pump. Now the steering box return hose needs to be directed to a waste container. Now rock the steering from left to right with the ENGINE OFF. This will allow you to pump the reservoir out and as you do just keep adding fluid to prevent air being sucked into the system. Continue till the return line has clean fluid running out. There is no way to introduce debris to the pump if the return is heading to a waste container. Now rehook up the return line to top off the system with fluid. Matter of fact I did this same process on a Chevy Suburban in Nampa ID and cleared out the red-colored fluid I'm not sure if it was ATF or some other product like Lucas additive which is red. I flushed the system the same way and took like 30 minutes from start to finish. It performed way better and only now had to chase a bad hose that was leaking at the crimp of the hose.

Totally agree. Transmission filters are not filtering as tight as a engine oil filter. Then most people assume that normal driving is fine but little do they know the trans temp light does come on till 295°F and by then the transmission took damage.

Just keep in mind you want 14 PSI as a minimum fuel pressure at WOT. This will help with cooling and lubing the VP44. The bad side is never pull fuel from the sender basket being that is the hottest fuel return from the engine and can cause VP44 damage to the PSG module. Being my fuel system I use an old school draw straw in the tank my fuel temperature has are considerably lower than most others on the forum here.

Yeah my pump is old and dirty but I might have a slow weep somewhere but the pressures are fairly rock solid. Yes the old school push lock fittings and JIC fittings are supre easy and don't use any clamps or seals.

Boost fooler and/or boost circuit is having issues. Double check by ohm testing the wires. Check for your 5V signal and signal ground.

MAP Sensor at the least. The rest can remain.

No need for a shop. Do it yourself. All push lock fittings.

Here check this out... https://www.vulcanperformance.com/Metric-Adapters-s/188.htm

This is a problem in the 4th Gens. I've seen that the PRND selector valve will get wear from the deflection of pressure on the valve body and there is an updated RevMax valve body for the 4th Gens. As for the 47RE I would say you are on the right track. The information I learned from Dynamic from his time here you cal use compressed air to simulate the ATF and verify the valving is actually working correctly.

Chrome makes it go faster right? I want to see this beast run soon...