Mopar1973Man

No I need to learn the limitation of the camera which is very new to me and only shot a few videos. Light limitations I'll catch up on but if the camera is on my forehead I can't see the preview screen at all. This why the second clip after reviewing the video I added the clup on the end using a selfie stick to reach that point with stick my head or hands near the fuel. Like I found out still shot photos are not as good as my Samsung S21 cellphone which does a much better photo compared to the GoPro which was fuzzy looking compared to Samsung you can see the texture on the metal surface.

Keep in mind a 3um filter will filter out a red blood cells but a 7um will filter out a white blood cell regardless very very small particles.

I told you I'm going to good friends with that GoPro.

Yeah and no. There is minor differences, like oil type, amount of oil, expansion valve or fixed office tube. Etc. But yeah they are similar.

Man that is happening on a daily affair here but no Dodge's... I've got a Ford (car) coming tomorrow morning for a recharge. Just got off the phone with the owner. That's a tough one even I'm clueless on doing gear work. I'll admit my shortcoming. Anyone else willing to jump in and build an article for this? That's something I got a huge talent for. I can see about doing basics for now checking fuses and relays. Then do some quick videos on doing voltage drop measurements. The typical ohm testing of sensor leads and such. Not a problem.

Not a problem when the Dodge rolls in the shop all that will be shown in the video.

Please do that's why the site was designed the way it is so all people can contribute to the site with different articles on how they do there own projects. Even if someone else has done the project you can document new tricks to improve on older articles.

Donaldson, Fleetguard or the AirDog filter... I think the current one is Donaldson from @dieselautopower...

Here you go this is my next project here to work on... As you can see I work on more that my own trucks and want to share the experiences with every job I'm going to be doing. Like I said the GoPro and me are going to be good friends really quick.

This is why the double stacking of the AirDog filter which is 3um and the the NAPA/Wix filter which does show a 7um rating. Regardless that 7um filter picks up a lot that the 3um doesn't. Last filter change the stock filter was nearly plugged tight and dropping fuel pressure. Pulled it out and the filter was black. Mark my renter picked up the old black filter blew on the hole and the black fuel ran out of it. I consider it a good filter when both the AirDog and stock filters go 50k to 60k miles before change. I admit I went way too long this time and the stock filter plugged up.

Weird mine doesn't have that instant pressure on a oil change. There is about 3-5 second lag before the gauge comes up after an oil change. Normal start is about 1 to 2 second lag at cold start up.

Shouldn't be too bad for swapping the downpipe only if there isn't anything rusted badly. A little bit of torch heat to expand the out pipe sleeve and it should let go and slide out. If the clamp was really crushed into the pipe then its a new animal now and can be a really pain in the . I typically just clamp enough that nothing is going to move and not to crush the pipe setting the clamps. I was able to un-do the clamps on Beast muffler and knock it out of the pipe with a 2x4 and hammer in about 10 minutes. Then stuffed it on the the open end of Thors exhaust the the previous owner hacked off at the back of the cab.

Any request for articles please post up what you would like to see for this Generation of trucks.

Hey gang I've got a customer 2nd Gen Dodge Ram here. I'll be doing a up to date AirDog install, a oil pan gasket, and some front steering work. More articles to come. Videos will be included. Me and the GoPro and going to be good friends.

That being said I would consider dropping to 300°F for safety. Seems like I better fix my parking brakes. I tend to cheat and tap the throttle cancel the turbo timer and shift into first gear. Yup I'm guilty.

Well when my parking brake failed on Beast I was skipping the cooldown a lot of times and managed to kill the bearings in the HX35/40 Hybrid I've got to the point the compressor wheel was rubbing. Basically you want the turbo cool enough that the oil is no where near flash point which creates coke on the bearings and eventually the turbo bearing fail. Yup this one bit me for sure.

Injector Line or Injector failures Grid Heater Light If your grid heater light comes on while driving is a sign of a high return rate to the fuel tank or the fuel pressure in the rail is dropping. In my case, I was traveling towards McCall ID and climbing a grade with my utility trailer. All of a sudden the grid heater light comes on and chimes multiple times. Which I thought was weird. I had to complete my climb up the grade for a safe spot to pull over. Once I did get pulled over I shut down and looked there was fuel everywhere. I the grid heater light comes on while driving I highly suggest you get to a safe spot and shut down as quickly as possible. Checking The Injector Lines Now that I've got the truck home in the yard. I took some time to re-prime the rail and get it started. Even with as big of a leak, it was very possible to prime the rail fairly quickly and start the engine. WARNING: Being fuel is present and fire danger is always a risk make sure to have a fire extinguisher handy that is rated for fuels and oil fires. WARNING: Do not put your hands near the injection lines while running. High-pressure fuel injection injuries are very painful and can cause serious infections. Please keep your hands away from the lines. Use cardboard chunks if you want to see where the fuel is sprayed from. Once the engine is running look closely and you can see which line is spraying fuel. Again do not put your hands or body near any spraying fuel. If it's not possible to start because of too big of a leak you can order a rail plug that you can remove one line at a time then cap the rail and see which line is leaking this way so if the line you remove is plugged and now it starts it could be the line or a bleeding injector. I know this is kind of tough being every time you open the rail to change the plug you have to reprime the rail. Just as you'll see in my video first turn of the key the ECM will do a prime cycle, after the lift pump stops, just bump the starter again it will re-run for the next prime cycle of time. Make sure you give time to let the pump prime the system and allow for cool-down time on the starter. Installing Number 4 Injector Line It is pretty straightforward for installing the number 4 injector line. Count back to the number 4 injector line from the front. Now you'll need a 3/4 inch wrench and a 10mm socket and ratchet with extension. First, remove the two 10mm bolts one in the manifold just under the injector line nut at the head for the intake manifold cover and the other 10mm bolt holding the number 4 injector line. Now Using the 3/4 inch wrench loosen the two injector line nuts and remove the injector line. Install in reverse order. View full Cummins article

Not always true. One of my first mods to Beast was a set of DiPricol gauges. First haul I did was over Horsebend Grade which is 7% and the truck was pure stock yet. I had the cruise set for 60 MPH which is speed limit of the 7% grade and the EGT's was climbing over 1,400*F in stock form. Stock form without any tuner or injectors I would see 600*F after coming off the highway and stop for fuel. Even today with my last trip to Bridgeport, CA I was pulling the RV and heading up hill even with my tune the EGT's was still 1,000*F easy. But even when I can to a stop the EGT's could be as high as 500*F when I stopped for fuel. That was 17,500 pound total weight pulling up to 7,500 feet of elevation. Basically the same but running EGT's are much lower with my current set up but the heat soak of the cast iron takes time to cool off.

Here we go... I got the GoPro camera set up and using the head band for the first video clip. Please don't judge to harshly my video skills are rusty and need to learn more about the camera so I'm shooting from the hip this time to get things started. So the story line behind this video is the last trip on Friday I was heading out to @Honey Badgerplace to help with yard work. I loaded up my BigTex trailer and had my lawn mower, weed wacker, and ATV loaded. I was heading up the canyon toward New Meadows, ID and the grid heater light popped on and chimed multiple times. I knew the grid heater light is a sign of high return flow or loss of rail pressure. When I got the chance to stop and shut down the engine was covered in fuel being the line is under pressure and spraying at better than 18,000 PSI. I jump back in and started and ran for home. Now the GoPro came and I did my first youtube video. Basically got the truck primed up with a hole in the line and then fired up and look and see with the camera on my forehead. Sad to say it didn't see the leak on the video. So I grabbed the selfie sitck and stuff the camera back down and shot a second clip showing the leak running. @dieselautopowerhas been called and #4 line is coming.

I'm not sure if you have date codes but check the date code. 5 years plus is an issue.

You would have to look at cost of fuel, MPGs you'll have under load, and total miles, then what you time is worth. For me I'm currently starting out at $3.00 a mile.

I do it the way the factory did it, grey silcone sealant and that's it.

Be aware the dust lip will groove the crank but that is just the dust seal part the actual seal is curled inward towards number 1 cylinder. Make sure to get a NAPA seal being they have the proper installer sleeve for getting the seal over the crank. I Cummins seal installer isn't set up correctly and more than likely you will just fight the install till your damage the seal lip. This is a Cummins front seal and notice the sleeve inside is straight bore you'll never get the seal over the crank. NAPA https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/FPGTCS46174?impressionRank=1

I just use the standard front crank seal on mine. No nee for sealants or anything just tap the seal into the cover and then install the gear case cover with grey RTV sealant. If you have a bad groove get the front seal with a speedy-sleeve and install those as a set being the seal is just a bit bigger for the sleeve. Oh if there is a speedy sleeve already you'll need to score the sleeve with a chisel and the dig under with a flat blade screw drive and tear the sleeve and it will pop off. Done one on a Ford 7.3L for a rear main seal job.