Mopar1973Man

I've seen the vacuum pump bolt back out and start weeping oil.

Added load of the A/C pump running then the added heat of the A/C condenser on the intercooler.

No. Even today I ran to town with just 1/16 of a tank and still only 110*F fuel temps being the hot fuel isn't near the draw straw fuel temps are still lower.

UPDATE! GoPro camera showed up late last night I charged up all the batteries and check all the accessories I bought. This is prefect for a camera. All kinds of mounts and for your body or on the vehicle. I did a quick test video last night and the GoPro can be ran from my cellphone even editing on my phone. I've got to play catch up with A/C jobs locally. I'm going to do a test video in Beast to town. Let's see how it does.

Either you forgot the o-ring on the injection pump. Was installing the VP44 easy where is just slides in or did you have work it in with the nuts.

I'm using 350°F for cool down. Little trick for manual trans just leave your exhaust brake off and decelerate using the gears you can suck the temp out of the engine. Makes it so the timer isn't used much or have instant shut down. With my cool EGTs very rare indeed to wait much for cooldown.

Or upgrade to an exhaust brake having better braking power. Best part brakes last over 250k miles if used properly. No added rotational mass like you end up with on heavier rotors, which will lower MPGs as 3rd Gen brakes will do.

Actually that extra return flow allows for polishing fuel by passing fuel thru the filters multiple times. Since I've got both the 3um on the AirDog then 7um in the stock filter. Most fuel is return to the tank again and again. This is called "Polishing your fuel".

Chassis saver is bit cheaper and quotes that it can be painted over rust which might be good. I'm going to still going to pull the bed and whiz wheel the rust.

No it's the fact that line in not bent right then not supported properly and the the injection pulses causes the line to crack. So, I've been digging on the web and NAPA I think I'll be calling @dieselautopower to send me a full set of 3rd gen lines.

I'm also guilty of this too at times

I've seen several poorly cut straws that cause all kind of issues. Most commonly is most cut the tip at an angle or line an inch from the bottom. Thickness of a quarter coin is all you want. This must be measured on a empty tank and the tank sitting on two 2x4 at the band location. Just sitting the tank on the ground will skew this measurement. The end must be a straight cut. Optional is lightly notching the tip no more than 1/8 to 1/4 inch most.

Yeah it wasn't a good day at all. Just the fact I paid $50 to get me close just get me to McCall ID for fuel by the time I got home I wasted most the fuel all over the highway. When I get back home from here I'll have to get it started one last time and to see which line blew out and order it. Funny feeling its #4 cylinder that everyone complains about.

Cutting straw wrong will causes these issues. I've ran the the empty mark many times. The measure gap between the straw and a empty tank should be no more than a thickness of a quarter coin. Do not measure this with fuel in the tank because weight of fuel will change the amount of deflection of the bottom of the tank.

Well Thor went down today. I was packed up to go up to Lake Fork to @Honey Badger place to do my weekend project. As I was climbing to New Meadows i had the grid heater light come on and chiming multiple times i got to a safe spot and shut down to look. Pop the hood and there is diesel fuel everywhere. I knew that i blew a injection line. Quickly hopped back in and fired up and got rolling for home. Thor was bleeding pretty bad that I wasted 5 to 7 gallons of fuel getting back home. By the time I got home the front of my Big Tex trailer was dripping fuel off the front. Well I guess there is going be an article on doing this repair too.

BHAF will run 100k miles. Worth it!

After talking several members that opted for the drawstraw in the sender basket they have more issues with hot fuel temperature being the returned fuel is from the back of the head is going to be hot like the temperature of the head. Most were reporting fuel temperatures well above 150*F and dealing with asphaltenes and the filters fill up quicker than Beast does just because of fuel temperature. Being the fuel temp is lower the PSG unit is kept cooler and extends the life of your VP44.

As for today I've been working to clean Thor up and ditch all the un-needed junk, papers, trash, etc. Pressure washed the engine, washed the exterior, washed interior panels, etc. This is just the start of it just trying to roughly clean up the mess and being comfortable driving the truck again. I know the seat fabric is dirty and needing cleaning and the carpets too. At some point I'm going to pull the seats out of the truck and clean the fabric and pull the carpet and power wash the carpet. I'm going to keep the factory steel wheels but I'll paint them again since the paint is peeling off. Like my last post I was looking for paint for the bed and frame being this is salt country and need to deal with the rust that is already well on its way on the frame and bed. Once the GoPro camera gets here on Tuesday I'll be full throttle into working on this truck. I'll be video recording everything I'm doing. Just an example I'm going to pull the 2 inch leveling kit out being the bed is about 2 inches lower than the front it look like its squatting most of the time. The thrust angle is wrong also being its got a solid track bar so the axle is not centered. Thor is going to be set up for longevity and economy just like Beast is now. Nice outdoor job to do when its finally 76*F for weather bright and sunny.

I use the NAPA 7um filter. Then I got the 3um on the AirDog 150 and change the filter every 60k miles. This interval only works IF you NOT pumping from the sender basket which the fuel is too hot then you must stick to 15k filter changes. This is due the return fuel is much hotter and creates aphaltenes which plug up this filters faster. You need to keep fuel temps below 140°F to prevent this. Since in using the drawstraw my fuel temperature barely get to 120 to 130°F in the summer. This is how I'm able to extend filter changes beyond 15k.

Another solution is air rifle BB's. Just dismount the wheel from the truck pull the valve core let the air out break the bead on one side the add the same amount of weight as the dyna beads get the same results. I've got two bottles in my shop for this purpose eventually I'll do it.

Not sure what you mean on cutting off the bracket? I'm assuming isolator like fuel pressure? Photo would be nice to see what you mean. I would attempt to replace the stock filter back so you have you WIF light, possibly fuel heater for the cooler winter months I know your in Texas but furl heater is used with temps below +60°F. Warm fuel ignites faster and easier.

Another project for this summer is painting the flat bed and cleaning up all the rusty metal and fix all the lighting on the bed. There is some wiring missing and more lighting I want to add to the bed for work lights and fix the marker lights. I'm planning on removing the bed and sanding back the rusty metal and painting the metal. Flip the bed and do the bottom as well. Re-run all the electrical and put a hitch plug near the goose neck hitch. I already have the bumper plug already. I found a product made by Rustoleum which is a bed liner paint that has some really high reviews I'm going to even paint the frame and treat the rear half of the frame and rear axle and parts. https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-248915-32-Ounce-Coating/dp/B0070S7U4Y/

6 Speed G56 Transmission with a Valair Quiet Dual Disc Clutch (Organic).

Oil Change Required Tools and Materials 3 Gallons of Engine Oil 15w-40 Oil Filter Waste Container 3/8 Ratchet Oil Filter Wrench Magnet Tool (optional) Rags or Paper towels Viscosity of Oil Typically we all use the standard 15w-40 diesel engine oil for viscosity. The only time you need to change down to 5w-40 is in the dead of winter when temps are near zero for operation. I will warn this is going to be synthetic diesel oil and not very cheap. As for the 15w-40 oil I've been using it year-round here in Idaho with temps as low as 0*F to -20*F. API Specification Be aware there is an oil type specification. All diesel oil will be labeled with an API seal typically on the back of the jug or bottle. It should show CJ-4 or newer which is CK-4. Most will agree that CK-4 is a good old but others will say CJ-4 has issues because of the removal of some compounds like zinc. If you stick to a quality brand like Chevron Delo, Rotella, or even NAPA brand oil you will be fine. Oil Filters Then there is the filter I know this is going to be a touchy also. I've been using NAPA Gold filters most of the life of my trucks with zero issues. There is Fleetguard or Mopar but I will warn you that the Mopar filter is just a re-badged Fleet Guard filter. Then the other warning is do not use any Fram filters, there is a Dodge TSB warning that the warranty will be voided because Fram filters are poorly designed and may separate internally in the can and not filter any debris out causing engine damage. Oil Filter Wrench The oil filter wrench is optional. The filter wrench might be needed if you cannot get a grip on the oil filter and twist it off by hand. Typically the oil filter wrench isn't required as long as you follow a simple tip, just seat the filter till it touches the base. Then tighten only 3/4 of a turn and that's it. Oil Change Take the truck out and drive long enough to warm the engine up to 140*F to 160*F. Have a nice clear and level area like your lawn, dirt pad, or concrete area. Now position the waste container under the oil pan of the engine. Using your 3/8 ratchet the square tip of the ratchet will fit into the square hole of the plug. It's a standard right hand there so "lefty loosey" or counterclockwise as your looking at the bottom of the pan. This truck needed a bath before the photo it was rather oily down on the pan. Once the plug is loose you can spin the plug with your fingers and allow it to either drop the plug in the container or hang on to the plug and get a hand full of engine oil. That's what the magnet tool is for to fish the drain plug out of the container without sticking your hand in. I suggest allowing the oil to drain for a very long time at least a few hours to allow all the oil to come out of the oil cooler and oil galleries. Let it drain all the engine oil till it stops dripping completely to do it right. At this point, you can remove the air box or cold air intake to gain access to the oil filter. You can grab the oil filter wrench and loosen the oil filter. Spin the filter off and be aware the oil will run out over the top possibly maybe a bit hot. Be careful the filter will be slick and hard to hold. This will help allow the oil to drain out of the oil cooler and main galleries. Wipe the filter base off with a rag or paper towel make sure the old filter seal is not stuck to the filter base and it did come off on the old filter this is important. Leave the new filter off till the draining is done. SUGGESTION: I've been known to do the oil change at the end of the day I'll pull the oil drain plug and oil filter and leave the truck sitting all night draining this is the best way to get all the old oil out. Now that all the oil is drained. Reinstall the drain plug you want it tight but don't go overboard on this the pan metal is thin and could be possible to strip the pan threads out. Take the new oil filter and add a bit of oil to the seal and lube it up. I highly suggest against pre-loading the filter. Anything that is poured in the center of the filter hole is unfiltered when it goes to the engine. I've seen engines damaged by bits of foil seal or plastics that were poured into the center hole of the filter plugging up oil cooling jets and scoring bearing up from the debris. Again DO NOT pre-load the filter and leave it dry. As said above screw the filter on the filter mount till it seats and then only tighten 3/4 of a turn that's it. You should have a 3-gallon case of oil. You can start pouring the oil back into the engine. It will take the full 3 gallons of oil. Now once the engine is refilled with oil start the engine and monitor the oil pressure gauge. The gauge should pop right up in about 3 to 4 seconds. WARNING: If no pressure in 10 seconds, SHUT THE ENGINE DOWN IMMEDIATELY! Find out what went wrong before restarting again. Leave it running and go out and look at your oil filter and make sure it's not leaking. This step is required to do. I've seen too many shops in a hurry and spin a new filter on and the old seal was stuck to the base and it will blow out and have oil everywhere. I've also seen oil filters rupture at start-up. After the inspection shut it down and wait a few minutes and let the oil settle into the pan. Now pull the dipstick and wipe it off. Re-dip the stick back in and pull it out again. The oil may be a very light color or might be black already. This will depend on it you hurried on the draining or let it go all night. Check your level it should be right at the full mark. Now, this completes the oil change but you should keep a log book for your maintenance. This way you know when to change the oil again. I use an app on my phone called Simply Auto which tracks my maintenance and my fuel logs so it get a notification of when oil changes are needed. View full Cummins article