rburks

Great Write-up Michael, lot of problems reported on these forums are associated with this Tomorrow,..if i get a chance i want check voltage at PCM and then at the APPS and calculate the difference.... Richie

O.K. ..What are most of you guys using in P/S Pump...ATF+4 OR Power Steering Fluid

Thanks Michael, that does shead A HOLE LOT OF light on the problem i will explain later in a thread i plan to post with photo's, parts list w/ part#,where to buy, diminsion's as well as a diagram on this MOD.., ..have not finished it yet..BUUUUTTT...here is where i basicly went wrong. #1--the violet/white wire which is in the low beam circuit GND from Dimmer switch via thru PDC changes Polarity in the High Beam . THE VIOLET WIRE {POSITIVE FROM DIMMER SW. via PDC }MUST BE CONNECTED TO THE COMMON {BLACK}WIRE ON THE 9004/9007 CONNECTOR... #2--O.K the last few days...i have read threads all over the internet regarding this issue, yet know clear explaination as to the cause...just the random croos this wire or jumper this wire...."SOOO.. here you are" THE REASON FOR THE HEADLIGHT INDICATOR STAYING LIT IS THE HIGHBEAM INDICATOR ITSELF RELY'S ON THE LOWBEAM GND {VIOLET/WHITE WIRE FROM DIMMER SW} FOR A GND...SO WHEN IT IS REMOVED FROM HEADLIGHT GROUND CIRCUIT TO CONTROL A RELAY IT WILL STAY LIT OR SOMETIMES SLIGHTLY LIT.. WHEN THE FIX: TAKE THE VIOLET/WHITE WIRE AND CONNECT A DIODE & RESISTOR THEN TO THE FRAME FOR GROUND.. p/s polarity is no longer reversed in HB Mode...now you have grounded the indicator so it can turn off in Low beam mode I no this is not real clear, few details not mentioned, but it will be when you all see the future thread i will post..STAY TUNED FOR THE NEXT EPOSODE !!!

O.K. ihave determined the problem is in the connection with using the original headlight wires to trigger the relay's I am wiring as follows: LEFT SIDE: LOWBEAM RELAY: violet power wire to #85post violet/white GND wire to #86post HIGHBEAM RELAY: violet power wire to#85post red/orange GND to #86post RIGHT SIDE LOWBEAM: violet/red power wire to#85 post VIOLET/WHITE wire to #85post HIGHBEAM: violet/red power wire to #85post Red/orange wire to #86post I have checked & double checked w/ DVM, THE violet & violet/red wires are deffenditely the power wires & they are straight from the PDC & ARE ALWAYS HOT Pops a fuse as soon as you replace them...DEAD GROUND.. WHAT AM I DOING WRONG

Well, Yesterday after getting the wiring diagram from Michael i arranged my trigger wires fot the relays and bamb!! poping fuse's like crazy...i can't find the problem, i have the narrowed it down to the trigger wire config. because i can unplug the headlight side harness from the relays and it still blows fuse's..dead ground some how HELP!!:banghead:

Funny!!! Ha..ha. Lmao ---------- Post added at 02:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:18 PM ---------- Why cant i get none of these cool smiley faces & lmao faces....

HEY MICHAEL... HAVE YOU NOTICED THAT THE TIME ON THE LEFT IS WRONG...ITS NOW SHOWING 1:55PM and its 10:09AM MY TIME AND I THINK 8:09AM YOUR TIME P/S THANKS FOR THE WIRING DIAGRAMRichie

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the Headlights.. I HAVE JUST LEARNED OUR TRUCKS HAVE GROUND SWITCHING SYSTEM "Meaning the switch in the Cab interrupts the Ground circuit and not the power... HAVING TROUBLE IDENTIFYING THE 3 SMALL WIRES IN OEM #9004 PLUG, NEED TO HOW IT COMPLETES THE CIRCUIT SO I CAN TRIGGER THE RELAYS WITH THEMI am installing new Sport Headlights... Made my own Wiring Harness w/Relays using 10 & 12 Gauge Wire.. 14gauge on the Trigger wires. sordered all terminals & connections and used Marine Heat-shrink tubing which has a glue in it that melts & sqeezes out the ends to bond to the wire insulation.. WILL POST PICTURES AND SPECIFICATION'S AND WHERE TO GET ALL PARTS WHEN I AM FINISHEDRichie

LIVEOAK No, so far this think has got me stumped...have checked all ground wires, from Batt. to Motor Block, from Motor block to frame & small Ground lead from Batt. to fender... reset APPS voltage to0.448 which is what is on whit sticker on back of APPS sensor, still idles up & Down at random.. ALSO I HAVE FOUND THAT SOMETIMES WHEN YOU SHIFT TO REVERSE FROM NUETRAL THE ENGINE WILL STALL OR DIE..

I just replaced my VP pump & also replaced the "CAM SENSOR" because it was easily to get to with VP Pump OFF, now the Engine idle's up & down meaning it rolls up and back at random varying about 150-200 RPM's. I checked the voltage on APPS and got 0.315; my voltage is stamped on white tag on rear of APPS is 0.448 so i reset voltage to 0.448.. Re-Calberated the Apps sensor by Disconnected the Batt terminals and reconnecting then pressing the fuel pedal down and back slowly...still does it PULLED DTC CODE'S #237 & #215 I think the #237 is from having the map sensor un-plugged when i first started the engine...not surebut the #215 i dont have a clue.... would bad or incorrect cam sensor cause this????? or what about VPplease help ...Thank you in advance!!Richie

I would check the APPS sensor, its sounds like it could be shot if its not an wire shorting out... check out Mopars thread APPS troubleshooting procedure on the Website link at the bottom of the page

I thought i read somewhere that Dodge now say's to use ATF+4 @ 100% but not to mix w/P/S Fluid.

Put some liquid soap like Joy or Palmolive, that's what i do and it works good... Richie

I have had a set in now for almost a year and i am very pleased with them, they are the smoothest idling injector available...period!! Richie

Like Mopar said, you need a 11/2 socket for the spindle nut and a puller to brake loose bearing seat from spindle. The BEARING IN HUBB & ROTOR come off in one assembly. Flip the rotor/hubb assem. over and you will see the Bolts holding the hubb on the rotor. THE BEARING IS PRESSED IN THE HUBB. CARQUEST for 1 source CARRY'S JUST THE BEARING. careful with the hubb bolts they will snapp easily as the heat from rotors has "case hardened" them over time Hope this helps your frend Richie

Its that rag joint in the steering shaft I bet, had the same issue a year or so ago and i replaced the steering shaft w/ Borgenson shaft. The new Borgonson box's are made to use the Borg. shafts i think Richie

Thanks ISX.. was logged in.. I forgot to log in... Sorry Michael ---------- Post added at 04:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:31 PM ---------- the new one's i looked at on ebay were china Turbo's OEM & Switzer Knock-offs. found 2 used one had waste gate welded shut and the other i think had a modified exhaust housing... but thanks..... i will check again.....

Sorry WF... I should have explained, My Stock turbo is a HY35 w/9cm Ex. Housing which is why i can't stay in the throttle very long or turn the edge past #1",high EGT'S...My housing mounts w/ a V-clamp instead of bolts so i cant upgrade the rear housing. every place i have tried to exchange for a HX35 (has 12cm exh. housing) is around $900.00 to a 1000.00 because i am not trading in the same core.

IN November "2009" while draining the anti-freeze/ from radiator i noticed the bottom boot at the CAC had a oil residue around the clamps. When i took it apart there was oil skim in the Tube but, {not a puddle laying in the boot like this time}. I was running a K&N Filter at that time so after talking to Micheal/Mopar i passed it off as the filter being the cause & possiably over oiling. After taking everything apart, TUBES, BOOTS, REMOVED TURBO AND REMOVED HOUSING AND CLEANED, I installed the BHAF, Now that filter has around 5,000miles on it and that also means 5,000 miles ago i totally cleaned the entire system out, now a few days ago i found a puddle, "2-maybe 3 tablespoons" after removing i can see barly a trace behind the blades, I guess that it is only leaking under full boost and the pressure pushes it thru the tube and drops at the CAC because it is the lowest point ....

Thanks Dually, that is a good tip(sticky) I always pour synthetic in top of the oil inlet and spin the compressor wheel, doing this 2-3 times Micheal,.... I cant find the thanks button....where did you put it

Yestarday, I pulled the boot of the CAC Tube and found "OIL" in the boot next to the CAC inlet. OEM turbo ex-change cost close to the price of new Aftermarket turbo. have narrowed it down to 3 choices, Switzer S300G, BD Super B kit or ATS Auroa 3000 kit. BD & ATS come's complete with downpipe and everything needed & is represented to be a "direct replacment fit", I am leaning toward ATS because of the 3yr. 150,000mile Warranty.. WHAT DO YOU GUY'S THINK WOULD BE THE BETTER CHOICE BASED ON MY MOD'S LISTED BELOW??? AN ONE RUNNING ONE OF THESE???

Today when i removed My Air Charge unit i found Oil laying in the rubber boot that connects the tube to Air Charger. when i took it loose at the turbo i did not find any trace of Oil. Iremoved the turbo and can't find any Oil or anything wrong, shaft is extremely tight and blades look great.. COULD THIS STILL BE COMMING FROM THE TURBO SEAL & BECAUSE OF PRESSURE IT IS CONDENCING AT THE INLET OF THE AIR CHARGE UNIT????

Thanks ISX, I got the Radiator, Air Charger & condencer removed today... also removed the Fan & removed the front timing cover. As it turns out, most of my oil leak was comming from the crank seal in the timing cover. The seal has left wearmarks or groves in the crank, i am searching now for a seal kit w/wearband.

Anyone tell me the best way to pull the Radiator out.... thought i saw a thread a while back and they removed the 3-bolts on the top post over the radiator, (the one bolted to the fenders) and lifted the hole thing out togrther.... I have got to remove the front cover because of oil leak... need to reseal w. gasket or silcone??? Richie ---------- Post added at 02:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:45 PM ---------- Sorry, I guess the correct term is "FRONT TIMING COVER"

YES, I had mine replaced at the local Dodge Dealer, over 300.00. Was under the truck a few days ago, think it is trying to leak again. I think they seem to crack in that flaired end. not a very good design.. Sure would like to know a fix for it...