24Vdodge

Yeah was thinking the APPS was on it's way out the last month or so. Are the pedal conditions normal that I described? RPM increasing, but the truck not picking up speed. Is that common when the APPS is on its way to the grave? Or do I have another issue?

For about the last month or so, sometimes when I start my truck, it will idle at 1200-1300 RPM, and it just hangs there, never tones down. (no high idle switch on my truck) Other times it idles at 800-850. I've done the APPS reset a few times, it will help for a few days. Then it's back to high idle once and a while. Month ago I had auto zone scan my truck, no codes. Yesterday coming home from the other side of the state, coming down the mountain into Denver, truck started running funny, pedal was not responding. I would mash the throttle and RPM would jump up like the clutch was slipping, but truck was not increasing in speed. Few miles later, the check engine light came on. I stopped at a auto zone in Denver, got two codes. P0121 and P1693. Shortly after leaving auto zone, light went off, and the truck ran normal, few hundred miles later truck started running funny again. Pedal not responding, RPM jumping around, but truck was not picking up speed. Thoughts?

When I first moved to Colorado 20 years ago (from about sea level elevation) I was driving a 1998 12V. I worked at a job at 9,000' elevation. My truck started, starting really hard and it puffed out huge plumes of white smoke. It never started that hard at seal level. I thought something was wrong with my truck. It chugged out so much white smoke I thought it was going to kill every tree and living thing with in 100 miles. Low and behold, after a few days, it started to start a lot easier. After a few weeks it was like it was born here, and never acted like it did, when I first moved here. Elevation, lack of air, does weird things.

I know a guy that does that. Only changes his oil every 70-75k miles, but he does spin on a new filter and adds one quart of oil every 5k miles. His claim is, oil needs to be filtered, not changed every few thousand miles. Glad it seems to work for him. I wouldn't do it.

I understand what you guys are saying. Knock on wood, I have only lost one injection pump, on the 8 dodge cummins trucks I've owned. I know for a fact, it was not because of the way I change my fuel filters.

Cummins mechanic taught me to do that 25 years ago, he said they always have a 5 gallon can of fresh fuel in the shop for when they change filters. Saves wear & tear on the starter, and you don't have to stroke that lever dozens of times, save all that pumping & stroking, for when you get home he told me. I remember asking him about it not being filtered fuel? He said stop and think about what you just asked me, any fuel coming out the output line of the "filter" going to the injection pump, will it be filtered...... filter. Run it threw a paint strainer if you are that concerned with it, he said. Good enough for certified cummins shop, good enough for me.

Good info to know, for the future! I would not be opposed to air dog on my next 2nd gen truck if they are more reliable again now. I did like the smoother idle my other truck seemed to have, with a air dog, think it had to do with the whole intrained air separation thing they do. I've heard of people breaking those priming levers, I never did thou, but then again I never used them ever. Whenever I change a filter, I fill the filter up with fuel, over fill a little even, spin it on, or drop it in canister, wipe off the access fuel, start truck. Never had the need to prime them when doing it that way.

And yet FASS and AirDog still have a pretty high failure rate (from my reading on the diesel forums) Haven't they both been redesigned a few times now in the last 10 years? Different motors, and revisions, etc. Hmmmmm, not as reliable as they once were. I had a old school FP100 air dog on one of my trucks back in 2006 to 2012, put 200k on that truck with the FP100, never one issue. I almost put a FP100 on my current truck, but after reading all the problems people were having with the air dogs back in 2012-ish on the forums, and after reading some revisions that air dog went through, I decided I didn't want to rely on a electric pump anymore, and I went with a fuel boss. I have zero regrets. My current truck has had a glacier diesel fuel boss, on it for 230k. It's hardly what I would call weak. It's simple and it flat works. It does not matter that it's mounted at the front of the truck. Fuel boss moves plenty of fuel. The bypass can be shimmed if you want it to pop off at different pressures. I'm positive it will be on the truck for as long as the truck is alive. 2nd gen trucks don't need the over filtered fuel like the 3rd gen common rail trucks do. Nothing wrong with a strainer between the tank and the fuel boss, and filter between the fuel boss and VP44. IMHO air dogs and FASS are over kill for filtering on a 2nd gen truck. Cut the fuel hose with a brand new sharp utility knife blade, or a set of shears. Then blow the hose out with compressed air afterwards, to make sure no chunks are left in the hose. This is bug catcher I run on my truck. https://www.glacierdieselpower.com/i-1140-fleetguard-ff5079-3-8-inline-strainer.html?ref=category:169 I have it mounted on the frame near the t-case. So it is between the fuel boss and the tank. Then I have one of these, between the fuel boss and the VP44. https://www.glacierdieselpower.com/i-1224-98-5-02-dodge-ram-gdp-mk-10-big-line-kit-non-heated.html It's simple and it works. Further more, 1989-1998 12 valve trucks have mechanical lift pumps mounted on the block far away from the tank, PULLING fuel. Not but 30 inches of difference between the side of the block and front of the bumper. How often do we here about those pumps failing on 1989 to 1998 trucks? Almost never. I've owned five 1989-1998 12 valve trucks, I've logged well over million miles on those trucks combined. Never replaced a lift pump on any of them. Pulling fuel far away from the tank. IMHO if dodge/cummins would have kept the mechanical lift pumps on the 1998.5 to 2002 trucks, pumping, PULLING fuel to the VP44, instead of going to the problematic electric lift pumps like they did, all of these aftermarket companies like, FASS, Air dog, and yes fuel boss, would never of had the need to reinvent the wheel.

Does your truck have a 4:10 in it now?

Yeah that would not surprise me. Some dealers are not trustworthy.

Back in the late 90's I towed a 40' gooseneck all over the USA (a lot of lights on trailer that size) with a 1997 3500 Dodge, I melted a headlight switch when the truck was almost new, I put in a new switch, it melted in short order also. Then I found out Dodge had a recall/update on the 3500's headlight switches, kit came with a pigtail, switch, and relay. I had a dealer do the recall. That switch lasted a month. Melted it also. Even with the relay it still melted the switch. Went back to the dealer. They tried to blame the size of the trailer I was pulling, the lighting having too much draw on the switch. My trailer just had DOT required amount of lighting. It was not lit-up like a xmas tree like some trailers I saw. So I came up with a system to bypass the headlight switch, for my trailer lights. I put a toggle switch on the dash, ran a power wire to the switch from the battery (inline fuse in between) then from the switch out to the back of the truck, I removed the taillight wire in the trailer plug capped it off, and ran the wire from my toggle switch in it's place. I towed that 40' trailer, with that truck for almost 300,000 miles, never melted another head light switch.

I have no idea why they don't now? I did not see a "add to cart" option on their website, so I called, guy said no we don't ship that oil. It was about a 20 second phone call. Napa, Autozone, Carquest, does not handle Redline products from what I was told today. O'Reillys does. So they saved the day.

I put a glacier diesel fuel boss on my 1998.5 dodge back in 2013, truck had 170,000 then. Truck has 400,000 now. It's been a great pump, no problems. I installed my direct, skipped the stock lift pump as a backup. Simpler to install, less fussing around. First belt (the one I put on it at installation) lasted 130,000 miles. I remember Richard telling me the belts are good for 50-60,000 miles. I just ran it to see how long I could get out of it. It broke coming up the road to my house, put the spare belt on it that I bought with the kit, it's been on there ever since. It's been a great system.

I called Blumenthal today to see if they sell that oil mail order, guy said no we don't ship the oil local pickup only. Called a few local parts stores, looking for Redline MT-85, like quad4x4 sells. Found some at a local O'Reillys.

This afternoon I took the fittings apart (these are the two fittings on either side of the filter canister) there was no fuel in the inlet or outlet hoses. I spun the filter off and the fuel level was about 1/2" to 3/4 of a inch down. I cleaned the fittings well and put some Indian head sealer on the threads and put everything back together, Let it set a few hours to give let the sealant setup. Cracked open 3 of the injectors open and fired the truck up. I looked the system over and did not find anymore wet spots. I have started it a few times and it fires right up. But it always does, after the 1st cold start of the day. It is over night when it acts up. Will see what happens, on cold start tomorrow?!?! This is the 1st fuel system problem I have had since installing the fuel boss. I am sure it is a leak or I hope so!!

Hi All, have not been on the site for a while. To many other things in life going on. Had to go reset my password to get back on. So I have a quick question for you all. In the last week my truck 1998.5 24V has been acting up. After it sits overnight, go out in the morning to cold start it, it will fire right up, run for 10-15 seconds and then die, like it ran out of fuel. Then it is a real bear to restart. It acts like it's out of fuel, or losing prime. It only does this the 1st cold start of the day, the rest of the time you shut it off and restart it throughout the day, it fires right off and runs great!! My driveway is level or flat, no steep inclines around here. My truck has a fuel boss system I put on it. It has been great and trouble free. I've had it on there now for over 70,000 miles without any problems, it still has the original belt on it I put on at the time of the install. It always has 15-16 lbs FP at idle and 19-21 ruining down the road. Other then the fuel boss my truck is stock, well except for the 4" exhaust and BHAF. Other then that it's stock. This morning I checked over the fuel system. I found two fittings that are wet, like they are seeping a little fuel. I wonder if this is where my problems is? Maybe where the fittings are seeping a little fuel, after it sits over night is sucking a little air? Causing it to loose prime over night? Thanks for any tips, and help.

The other day I smelled a strong smell of diesel fuel and I pulled the truck over. When I looked underneath the truck there were over a dozen driplets dripping off the driver's side frame rail. The frame rail was completely wet. Diesel was also dripping off the transfer case skid plate. I recently installed a Fuel Boss fuel system on my truck. My first thought was maybe one of the new rubber hoses chafed on something, even though I was extremely careful on installation. I determined the leak was between the tank and the frame rail. After several drips of diesel fuel on my face, trying to peek in the gap between the frame and the tank. Since I was on a road trip and several hundred miles from home I found a mechanic's shop. He was kind enough to let me help him work on the truck with him. We loosened the front strap of the tank and took the back strap off the tank completely. We were able to slide the tank far enough away from the frame to get our hands up in there. The stock steel return line has a small pin hole in it. We called the local Dodge dealer and they said it would be over a week before they could get one out of the warehouse. I had places to be and didn't have the time to wait so we put a band aid on it. We took a piece of 5/16" rubber hose, slit it on one side. slid it over the hole and put three hose clamps on it. It lasted for the remaining 1600 miles of the road trip without a leak so it worked but it is only a temporary fix. I dont' really want to buy the stock part from the local Dodge dealer. I'm contemplating a few different ideas. 1 - cutting out the section of steel line with the pin hole and flaring in a new section of steel line. 2 - just running a parker rubber fuel hose in its place if I can find the fitting for a push lock hose connector to connect to the quick coupling style at the rear of the engine. What are your thoughts and ideas? Anyone else had this problem and replaced a leaky stock steel line? Thanks.

Just wanted to do a quick update. I got back from my 2000 mile road trip the other day. Fuel Boss performed flawlessly. 16 pounds of fuel pressure at idle and it runs 19-20 going down the road depending on what rpm you are running. By the way I unplugged the lead to the stock lift pump before I left and it never tripped the CEL. I did have two problems with the truck on the trip, not related to the Fuel Boss, though. Before I left the fuel gauge had a small leak and I determined the nut wasn't tight enough. I tightened it and the leak went away. There were no leaks from the fuel gauge MOST of the trip. I was about 350-400 miles from home (on the return leg) and the gauge started making a wierd buzzing noise. I figured maybe it was just the gauge pod rattling against the a-pillar. Low and behold I was wrong and fuel started leaking from the gauge in several places. I might have smoked my gauge. I have a needle valve under the hood, just like everyone seems to run. I followed Michael's you tube video about having it only slightly cracked open. Problem was, when it was only "slightly cracked open" it would take almost 30 seconds for the fuel pressure gauge to get from 0 up to 16 pounds, whether the truck was warm or cold. I cracked it open slightly more and the gauge would rise from 0-16 pounds in about 9 to 10 seconds. I figured that was acceptable. Maybe I had it open too far and smoked my gauge, not sure. The other problem I have was also fuel related. The stock steel return line that goes from the back of the VP44 to the tank decided to start leaking. I'll probably post a new thread about that. Thanks.

Ok. Thanks for the help guys. I had to go pick up a new trailer yesterday. I put 480 miles on the truck. The truck ran very smooth. 20 pounds of fuel pressure running down the road. Two times I let it idle for a few minutes and it idled at 16. Everything was going real smooth until diesel fuel started running down the a pillar at the back of the gauge. I turned the needle valve off under the hood. I didn't have a chance to look at it today. Not sure what went wrong. Thanks.

OK, so you are saying if I unplug it it won't throw a code. I would rather not stare at an orange check engine light. Since I don't have a tool to reset it with, I was not sure what to do. Now I wonder what all the guys who P-pumped their 1998.5-2002 Dodges did with the stock lift pump pig tail. Did they unplug it or leave it plugged in once they bypassed it? for that matter the guys who put a stock lift pump and cam swap from a 12 valve into their 24 valve- what they did? Maybe that's the best thing to do, just unplug the pigtail to the lift pump and hope it doesn't throw a code.

This is going to be a long winded post (you might need cliff notes) will try to answer all questions and give you some of my reasons, and why I did what I did. I bypassed the stock lift pump for several reasons. One, for a faster, simpler install. Two less switches, several less fittings and hose connections for leakage. It is just a simple system altogether now. Plus it was cheaper to buy the straight mechanical kit. Less switches, hoses and fittings worked out to be $100 less than buying that kit with all the extra stuff, I did not really want. Not telling anyone what to do. Everyone has to make their own decision as to what they feel comfortable doing with their own truck. I don't think I would want to rely on the stock lift pump as a back up after it's been sitting, rattling stagnant on the side of the block, in the event that a belt does come off. All the reading I did, dobienut, you were the only one I found that had a belt come off, while bashing snow drifts. My truck now builds fuel pressure instantly at cold start. I don't think the stock lift pump would run for but a split second, if that, so I just decided to get rid of it altogether. With all the reading I did on the net I couldn't find anyone that runs the Assasin belt driven mechanical lift pump and uses the stock lift pump as a back-up. Being that the Assasin and the Fuel Boss are similar design, using the same principles, I wondered why the Fuel Boss couldn't be ran like that. Also, no one that runs the Fass or Air Dog fuel replacement systems relies on the stock lift pump as a backup. Typically they are bypassed altogether. My last truck was a 2000 Dodge 3500. I put a Air Dog 100 on the truck, put over 200,000 miles on that truck and never used the stock lift pump and never had one problem without it. I spoke with Richard at Glacier Diesel and ran that thought past him, about straight mechanical. He said there is nothing wrong with running it straight mechanical. He told me about 50% of the kits he has sold have been set up as straight mechanical, no stock lift pump. He said one of his first guinea pig trucks was set up as straight mechanical and the belt on that truck went over 130,000 miles without being replaced. I spoke with someone somewhat local to me who is running a Fuel Boss straight mechanical, no stock lift pump, and it has been on the truck some 200,000 miles and he is only on his second belt and has never popped one off. I did it for a simpler install, less things to go wrong. I've been driving Dodge Cummins trucks for many years, bought one brand new back in the day. I watch my gauges like a hawk. My left eye will be glued to the fuel pressure gauge in the event a belt pops off. I will pull the truck over immediately and replace it with the spare belt in the glove box. I have full confidence in the system. It's a better system than what they left the factory with. I've only put about 100 miles on the truck since I put it on last week. The truck had the bone stock fuel system on it, before I put the Fuel Boss on it. It was like most bone stock trucks - only had 9 to 10 for fuel pressure. It now has 15 at idle and 20 running down the road at 70 miles per hour. The truck definitely starts easier. The idle is smoother and it has a noticeable difference in power. When I put the kit on I filled the fuel filter full of fuel and spun it on. (I replaced the stock fuel filter canister with one of Richard's upgraded fuel filter kits,MK-10 with the big line kit) I did NOT spin the fuel boss with a drill to prime the system or put a air compressor hose in the fuel tank to try and prime the system. After the fuel filter was full of fuel I simply got in the truck and started cranking the key. Keep in mind all the new lines were bone dry. Within 8 to 10 seconds the truck fired right up. It never hiccuped or coughed. After it idled for a few minutes I pulled it out of the shop and took it on a short test drive. No problems. I have a 2,000 mile road trip at the end of the week hauling a loaded trailer. Will report back when I get home. One other thing I would like to say....buying something from Richard was nothing but a pleasure. He returned my emails almost immediately and one phone call as well. I spent several hours reading posts dating back to 2001 while doing research before I made my decision about buying a Fuel Boss. A lot of people talk about these trucks losing prime after changing a fuel filter. I'm not sure if I'm the only person who does this...back in the fall of 1998 I bought one of these trucks brand new. After the second fuel filter change, bumping the key to fill the fuel filter canister, or opening a few injector lines to bleed the air from the system,,, I thought that there has to be a better way. So I started filling the canister with clean fuel at the filter change, no more losing prime. I always fill my filter when I change them, and the truck starts right up. The way I look at it; the Fuel Boss is a simple mechanical pump. It's no different than any of the old 12 valve trucks. As soon as you turn the starter over it's going to start pumping fuel. It's just like the lever actuated lift pumps on the 12 valve trucks. As soon as you crank the starter, the cam shaft starts rotating and it starts pumping fuel. Fuel Boss just runs off the crank instead of the cam. I've owned several first gen CTD Dodges also and always did the same thing at the time of fuel filter change, fill it with fuel, hit the key and truck starts immediately. I keep a 1 gallon can of fresh diesel in the bed of my truck on long road trips, in case I need to change a filter. Simple quick and easy the way I look at it and no over working the starter or making a mess opening injectors, did that once. Again, everyone needs to make their own decision as to what they feel comfortable doing with their own truck. I just do what I like for mine.

There is a relay in the PDC for fuel system. That's the one I was referring to. But now that I think about it it probably controls something in the injection pump as well. Since I've already bypassed the stock lift pump maybe I will just unplug the pigtail to it. Do you know if there is anyway to reflash the ECM with a smarty or something to delete the P0230 code permanently? I don't have a scan gauge. Really don't want to stare at the orange check engine light. Maybe I will pick up one of those cheap scan gauges so I can keep deleting the code every time it pops up. Not really sure. Do you have any thoughts as to the solution?

I finally (been busy lately) got around to completing the installation the other day of my Fuel Boss mechanical fuel pump on my truck.I bypassed the stock lift pump all together. You can still hear the stock lift pump cycle when you first start/bump the key on the truck. I know sooner or later it is going to stop working and trip the check engine light. My question is..if I pulled the fuse for the lift pump will that make the check engine light come on? Or if I unplug the wiring harness to the stock lift pump will that make the check engine light come on? I want to disable the stock lift pump some way since I am no longer using it but I don't want the check engine light to come on. I really don't want to stare at that orange light.Thanks for the tips and help.

I have a Isspro mechanical fuel gauge in my truck. I never got around to hooking up the light for the gauge. I very rarely drive the truck at night. The question I have is..there are two prongs on the back of the gauge. Does it matter which one is the hot and which one is the ground? Neither of them are marked with a + or - sign. Also, I am wondering if you guys have had good luck using "add-a-fuse" connectors? FP gauge is the only after market electrical accessory I have on the truck. I was thinking of using the add a fuse connectors to get a power source out of the panel. Wondering if you guys have had good success using those?Or if I should use another way to splice and get power for the light.Thanks.

Hi Guys, just thought I would give you a update. I had sometime yesterday to work on the exhaust. I loosened and turned the exhaust elbow and also tweaked the bracket welded to the down pipe (by the t-case) with my big pair of channel-locks. I now have just about 1-1/4" of clearance between the firewall pad and the down pipe, good enough I think?Thanks for the tips!