tmacie

It happens! No worries here! Travis

Fuse is fine...I unplug the harness and the lights work as normal, and it tests fine. I'll give the single side approach a try. You are right, far far less current than a light running on it. Also, I'm thinking since its ground switched maybe the switch is expecting to "see" both filaments resistance. I'll give it a try. Travis

So, I decided to build a relay harness for my headlights. I've heard people have had good luck with getting more light output so i decided to give it a go. With the harness installed, only the driver headlight works. It looks much brighter, but one light wont cut it! LOL. High and low beam have the same result. The high beam indicator is on with the high beams but goes off with the lows, like its supposed to. I used the Low+ and Common from one side on the relay for the low beams, then I used the High+ and Common from the other side to trigger the Highbeam relay. The reason I used the common from the OEM harness is these headlighs are 99% of the time ground switched/triggered systems. Anyone have any thoughts as to why I only have one light lit? Relays are confirmed working, Wiring is soldered with verified continuity. Thanks, Travis

So after giving my input I decided to go check my new-to-me 99 to see if there were any RF issues. I haven't had any TC issues, but I wanted to check anyway as I've only had the truck a week.I'm not sure if I'm glad I checked, or sad. 120v AC. OUCH! The PO had changed the alternator and foiled up everything in sight. I'm going to add another ground to the alternator because I think its a good idea anyway. Does anyone have a bad (AC issue only) alternator they would be willing to send to me? I want to take one apart and look at the rectifier to see if I can build a better one. I will do a writeup and post it here. I will send you back the fixed alternator once I am done testing.Travis

Hi Guys,Tons of good info in this thread (site too!). I know I'm new but I want to add a little info I didn't see that might help. If its already mentioned, please disregard. I'm seeing there is a little confusion between voltage regulators and rectifiers. The voltage regulator in the ECU is what controls the amount of DC voltage from the Alternator (simplified explanation). The rectifier in the alternator is what takes the AC the alternator makes, and converts it to DC for the vehicle to use. This is the part with the diodes that go bad. They are two different animals. Using an external Voltage Regulator wont solve the issue, as its not the cause of the issue.I think the only way to solve the AC/RF noise issue is to rebuild the rectifier with higher quality components. I don't have the cash to get a new alternator and tear it apart to research more, but I'm pretty confident that if higher quality components are used we'd have great results.Thanks,Travis