KATOOM

I was thinking it had to be along the same idea of an air dam / splitter, whereby creating negative air pressure for radiator air flow, but usually those things hang down in the air path. This looks more like IBMobile calling it a tool catcher...

Looks like part #17... Whats it called?

My Sport model has always had this bumper dam, or valance, connected to the bumper and tied to the frame. I dont know why or what purpose it serves other than maybe helping air flow through the radiators... But, I see pictures where some 2nd gens dont have one. :confused013: Do you???

Mike...!!! WHAT ARE YOU DOING??? Get the heck out of there. Material things mean nothing but your life is everything. Things can be replaced. Pack up the trailer and your truck with the sentimental stuff and leave because you may not have a chance later. The number of people who died down here in the CARR fire is crazy. And the number of people who barely made it out in time is also alarming.....

But I can see them in that picture you posted... Well not perfectly because of the angle but definitely if it was in person.

Trac-loc is in the Dana 80 Power-loc is in the Dana 70 (and what you pictured) If Marcus2000monster has a factory LS then its the Trac-loc. Either way, you should be able to see the spiders and clutches in the side holes. Its been a long time since I remember looking at mine though so maybe the spring isnt there...

Most, if not all, synthetic differential lubricants already have friction additives in the recipe. So depending on the fluid you choose, dont go adding more additive unless you have to otherwise you'll end up with a LS which does nothing. The factory LS is already set with a low preload for more friendly driving characteristics so you dont want to make it any less effective.

Yeah, the axles under these trucks are "Dana" but only the inter components. The housing was built by Dodge (or some third party contracted by Dodge).

You can also decode here but I'm not sure it gives all the specific package component details. Usually there's three methods to identify a LS differential: 1) There should be a sticker on the inside of the glovebox door which lists build codes. You're looking for the one that says anti-spin diff. 2) You can jack up the rear axle off the ground and with the transmission in neutral and the e-brake off, spin one rear tire by hand and see what the other side does. If the other tire follows the same rotational direction then you have a LS carrier. But if the other tire spins in the opposite direction then you have an open carrier. 3) You can pull the differential cover off and look at the carrier. If its a LS then there will be clutch packs on either side of the spider gears on the axles and there should be a curved spring pushing out on in the middle. If its an open carrier then there will be none of that.

Just to point out that the Cumminshub website is not affiliated with Cummins in any way. Its just another website with collected data which may or may not be accurate. So use your best judgement on what it tells you...

I myself have the SB hydraulics and they work great. My clutch pedal height is set to my liking and is surprisingly light on the leg muscles. SB contracts with a company who not only bores out the stock hydraulic housing for a larger plunger which gives more pedal leverage but they also fit them with braided lines which allow a straight shot from the bell housing up to the master. To each is own I guess.....

Great idea..... I'll pull off the master and see if the action is the same. Good call Haggar.

OK just to confirm something before I go tearing things apart... Last night while noting disassembly procedure I pressed on the brake pedal with my hand, and the pedal acted like a sticky syringe plunger or like a shaft seal skip / jump a little while moving through a bore. But this happens ONLY during the initial movement, and not through the full stroke. Everything I read says a stutter or shudder of the pedal means low fluid. I just want to be sure I'm not taking something apart that doesnt need it... While using forums, sadly its amazing how many people post their issues with the hydroboost but never bothered to let anyone know what they did and/or if it worked. Apparently the hydroboost system has many symptoms and many possible fixes based on what the problem is. For me, I cant seem to find anyone still available online who has the same exact pedal movement shutter.

We all have our own opinions Mike...and you dont gain a place in Heaven as Jesus already assured that. That said, you're obviously a good person and have a sizeable heart for others. But without getting off topic, let me just say that: 1) Volunteers for fires are no longer allowed in CA unless you have specific training. So any random persons offering to help would simply be turned away... Politics?...Safety?...Money?...whatever the reason. And 2) I cant make it rain either. That capacity is up to a Higher Power.

Haggar, have you rebuilt one of these hydroboost units???

Thanks IBMobile, I've seen that. My only reason for asking was that article only involved swapping out the middle seal and nothing else. If I'm going to get a rebuild kit then I'm going to fully rebuild it with all parts since I'm not sure whats the matter with it... Thats kinda why I'm wondering if I should just save myself the energy and get another one.

Looks like we all better start praying for some early rain...

I've come to the conclusion after combing through the internet looking for answers as to why my PS pump pukes fluid while the engine is off, that there must be something wrong with the accumulator and/or the check valve. Its amazing how many people post problems with these systems but dont bother to let anyone know if they problem was ever solved... So that said, I have two options. I can buy a rebuild kit for $50, a reman unit for $200 (kinda wondering how reliable it would be), or a brand new unit for $300. Being that I have the tools to rebuild something, it certainly doesnt mean I care to and that it doesnt mean it'll work as it should after the rebuild, I'm curious to see if anyone has tried it.

Wanna hear funny... Years ago the city of Chico CA banned fireplaces and wood stoves in homes. You cant install or use one there because the city legislators have deemed the smoke from people keeping their houses warm with wood an environmental problem. I would guess that since CA has just gone through well over half a million acres of burning wood, banning wood stoves is kind of a stupid idea...

I believe they caught the arson who started the Mendocino (Ranch) fire, 260,000 acres, with its neighboring Mendocino (River) fire, 50,000. I thought the number of homes lost was over 2000... The Carr fire up by Redding is 182,000 acres and I thought something like 1000+ homes lost. Both are so big that the smoke has finally reached New York. And none of this crap is looking promising to stop. Oh, and there's more fires cropping up in the state too.

I thought I remember you talking about taking off the pressure line at the PS pump which runs up to the hydroboost and pulling out the screen filter?

Looks like what I've been sucking in for the past two months..... These annual "summer" fires are getting old.

OK, so I got home from work and did some checking. I dont see any leaking from the hydroboost. Its not clean and the bottom of it is sort of oily but its been like that forever. Meaning, nothing new and excessive. The pump is oily and again dripping. So obviously there's a leak somewhere allowing the fluid upstream to flow back down into the pump. Things are pretty oily and wet around the pump so its hard to distinguish where or what could be leaking in addition to whats spilling out the lid. Then I checked pedal feel with the engine off. When I pressed on the pedal the movement had some chatter, not smooth. Even if I pumped the pedal a few times the chatter would remain. Then I started the engine with my foot on the pedal and nothing happened. The pedal did not push back against my foot and if I held my foot pressure against it, the pedal would drop to the floor and I could hear a slight hiss. I didnt move the truck either, and just shut it down. So all that said, I guess I'm looking at three options? 1) There's a leak in the system. Likely a hose or something I cant see. 2) The PS pump outlet is plugged up and not providing the hydroboost with adequate fluid pressure. 3) The hydroboost is toast. Any suggestions before I start throwing parts at it?

Yes, you're correct and after seeing the leak and all the oily crap under there, I remembered that I did smell oil on that climb. I cant say whether or not the heat of the climb was related but maybe... No darker than normal PS fluid. Reddish color... Agreed, but I've sucked the fluid out and replaced it twice in the past few years with only about 30k miles since then. And it was with full synthetic PS fluid as well. So I cant imagine its because of old cooked fluid. There has to be another reason... This is interesting. I guess I didnt think about the hydroboost system being static. I'll look for leaks elsewhere indicating a drainback which could have allowed fluid stock to overfill the reserve. I'm puzzled by this... I dont believe it would be possible for the PS pump and the vacuum pump to share fluids under any circumstances. Matter of fact, there's a gap between the two so if either component seal was bad then a leak would simply drain between the two. No?

Today I happen to notice this larger puddle of oil under the truck. Looking underneath it was coming from the PS pump and dripping at a rate of a drop every 30 seconds or so. But why...? The engine had been off for a day and no one was ever in the truck at any time doing anything like trying to turn the steering wheel or touching the brakes. Thinking a hose let go, I eventually came to the conclusion that for whatever reason the PS fluid level raised up high enough to spill out the top and make a mess...with the engine off no less. Yes, the fluid level was very high. Then an hour later when I was parking the 5th wheel back in its spot I felt this weird bump in the brake pedal when pushing on the brakes quickly. Not every time but every couple times I pressed the pedal it would that weird feedback bump and the other times would be smooth pedal action. The only way I can describe how it felt was if the pedal was slightly hanging up on something giving this slight initial bump in the pedals movement. Could both of these be related? The strange phenomenon of PS fluid deciding to climb up and out of the reservoir while the trucks sitting parked, and a brake pedal hiccup. And just to clarify, the brakes work great and the steering feels fine with no noise...