SVALIN

So, the seatbelt light comes on and then off at startup, so I believe that indicates functional. But its never beeped at me when the belts arnt buckled.. SRS isnt something Id like to backprobe to diagnose.. dont much like the dealer either. I guess if cant figure out, Ill work on getting a better front bumper.

@TractormanWow! That is great access! That cross piece have to be cut as well? Just start the pilot holes from the bottom? Mini writeup? Seems so much easier than dropping the tank if/when theres an issue. Appreciated.

@jlwelding That does sound like possible minor air leak. If goes away warm, probably not straw.. Good video! My FASS was about 8 years ago, always had this problem. Hills or hard cornering would do it too. Im always a bit stressed when gets to about 1/3. My 150 failed and started leaking externally recently. Tried to rebuild but the bearing and seals are proprietary? Mark against Fass there. Has same blue hose I see with the airdog. Mines all surface cracked at this point bad. Ive replaced the runs I could reach with marine hose. Another reason for me to drop tank to fix. One other plus! I kept my original fuel pump, and added additional set of fittings for it. If the fass goes out again, I can use the OEM pump to limp home. Keep the articles coming!

Ah, vehicle has RWAL, so explains plug. I plugged it into a modus or similar a while ago, recalling memory here, tried communicating with Airbag module, and was unsuccessful. Dont know if it was on me, or module dead. Module is plugged in and in proper spot. Any other thoughts for diagnosing it?

Edit: whoops. can someone move this to non- powertrain? Thanks Hey all, Ive had this forever, but its been on the backburner. I figure some better minds could help. Airbag light, new clockspring fixed cruise control, no dice on light. Cant figure out how to pull codes for it. Dont know where to go. I looked at a 99? Wiring diagram posted here, showed the ACM hooked to something called a seat belt module. Supposed to be under center seat? Nothings there on mine, or harness, so dont know if was deleted? Mine is a 2001. Also theres this terminated plug under the air-filter. Dont know where that goes or what it does, any clues on that? Thanks for the help

First number is width in MM, second is ‘aspect ratio’ / R rim size example, my 275/65r18 are the same width and diameter as 275/75r16 Same calculator says I really should be running 3.73 gears. Although changing down from 275/70r18 made a significant difference.

Hi John, I got a shot of each side bot not a single shot of the bottom. Hope it still helps. I did them about a year ago, so thats how the previous set looked too. These were o’reallys shoes, not that great. Looking online it for sure looks like theyre two different sizes front and back..

These are what mine are like. Almost time to change again.. Front is definitely shorter here..

@Me78569Okay, thank you. Done, and put load timing reduction to 1 for now. Also can adjust base. Ill post another log later, or try another graph, if those sensors are most valid. Anyone want to take a stab at injection event in degrees from uSec? Ive read a lot of research from you all, its all been fascinating and helpful.

@Me78569 light SMALL grey/black puff for snap test. Then clears. Clear while driving, unless from stop go up hill or high load.

Batteries not fully drained. And wasnt full fielding alternator, saw peak of 90 amps. 4awg is fine for a short run up to about 100 amps. edit: probably wouldve went for a 150 amp breaker if had one lying around. But dont see any issues, only 5A difference than stock fuse.

@ThreadzyI am totally, 100% open to suggestions. Had quad less than year now, so still new to me. Before that was the original edge JWA! When I went down in tire size, I didnt see the load decrease much. But could definitely notice it with other gauges, and acceleration/gearing.

Thanks for taking a look. Im figuring with this setup is only 1 step larger on tires and injectors, shouldn’t be too hard to find something good. The larger turbo may make it trickier. I thought there was some good info posted here. From 2019 and back then 2.99$ was ‘high’! When running .010 about 82% where was starting. Theres no smoke @ 115%. The truck doesn’t take off well for sure though, @LorenS. One thing Im fighting is load, or perceived load. Data time cruise was about 22-25 with the 150s. I have to put load limit up high for these.. Id start lower on the 1500 timing, but big jump to cruise.. I find it ‘bounces’ between 16-22*. Ill start with lowering the CANBus.

2000 RPM is close to 75 for me. Not great with wind drag. This is with 3.55 275/65R18. (Essentially a 275/75r16) 47re. RV275. Already stepped down a tire size, and it improved, but don't want to go much smaller. Would consider 3.73 but lots of work for a 4x4. First attempt at graph, wish could get 2nd axis as a bar instead of line. Didnt include boost, its mostly 0-1 psi. A 64/64. I dont think its bad, but unsure where to try tweaking or improving. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated! Current daily, Levels: 6 Timing Fuel Load Timing: 0 Low PSI Timing Reduct: 4.5 Timing Reduct Scaling: 90 Light Throttle Timing Adv: 6.0 Light Throttle Timing Load Limit: 37 Timing vs rpm 1500: 16.5 2000: 19.5 2500: 23 3000: 25 Timing Max: 26 Wiretap Pump Stretch: 1900 TPS Pump max: 100 TPS Pump Min 50 Minimum Pump Tap Fueling Percentage: 0 Pump Low Boost Scale PSI: 15 Boost Scaling: 40 RPM Limit: 3400 Power Reduction: 0 PSI %:115 1 PSI %:116 2 PSI %:117 3 PSI %:120 4 PSI %:122 5 PSI %:124 6 PSI %:125 7 PSI %:125 8 PSI %:125 9 PSI %:126 10 PSI %:127 11 PSI %:129 12 PSI %:131 13 PSI %:135 14 PSI %:137 15 PSI %:140 16 PSI %:145 18 PSI %:150 20 PSI %: 22 PSI %: 24 PSI %: 26 PSI %: 28 PSI %: 30 PSI %:

So 2 part question. As this best relates to economy. What numbers do you look for in your data log and then which parameters are then adjusted? Timing vs egt, etc? Ill post a datalog just took, as HW try to do a doc graph, still not great at it. Also the ECO is quads way of tracking MPG? 2nd part relates to the larger injector theory. Read a lot about the .010 with the higher pop pressure. Shorter duration, precise fuel. Im trying to calculate that to crankshaft degrees. Microseconds is a small unit. For (rounded) max canbus and wiretap (~6000us). Im getting 1.2*. Does that sound right? When adjusting the timing parameters, the event STARTS at the desired value, and ends when duration complete? Sv275 ii.csv

What is the ratio to aim for? 3.5-.7? Thought I saw that number somewhere. And when calculating for ratios, do you start at the 245/75r16 on the door panel for 3.55 gears, or with the optional 265/75r16? Thanks!

I also did the W-T ground mod, fairly recently. Wiring harness and runs feel a lot ‘cleaner’. Thats main positive for me. I still see 30mv AC while charging though. Maybe I missed something? The shorter positive lead away from other wires makes a lot of sense. And also dont realize how bad a lot of the grounds are until you get in there, so thanks. Wil440 makes a good point on the marine breakers, theyre rated to a high standard, (SAE J, Coast gaurd, llyods of london, etc..) Blue sea systems makes a good product and are out of WA. Ive repurposed a 135A windlass breaker, no issues so far, couple months. Havnt checked amps with a clamp yet though, maybe project for later today.

About same here, except for when engine is cold to warming up. Automatic in gear idling at stops is around 450*f. Both with RV275 and 7x.010, does that sound right?

Great! I read your previous drawstraw article on the AD. I have a FASS and it will run out at 1/4 Tank if going uphill. So something Im planning on redoing. Extra video would be really helpful for the measurements!

Hmm. If it is the front main, maybe need a speedy sleeve, when the front covers off and can see the crank snout properly, can see if theres a groove in it, if fingernail catches groove on snout, new main wont seal correctly. Shouldnt need any rtv on the front main seal. Id recommend cleaning the area really well, and pinpointing where its leaking from. If its still being difficult, may be time for dye additive in oil and UV light check.

Close to the same. Near or over 1k. Depends how much the rims cost, can get a powerstop kit from rockauto for about $500. I saw a BD exhaust kit for around 1100. There was a decent write up on CF for the 3rd gens. Its two different theories of braking. If long hauling, exhaust and down shifting works real well. Or if immediate stopping power, larger brakes. I found a LARGE improvement in stopping distance converting to 3rd gens. Also swapped down to 275/65R18 from 275/70s because of the dang fuel prices. Acceleration is better, also lie o meter saying 24-30mpg while cruising 60 now.

For sure, its probably negligible gains, maybe 5-10F*. I guess would have to do side by side to see. I think negligible on the cons too though. Most aftermarket manufactures ‘gains’ data is heavy on the lab tampering. Take k&n hp gains they say about their product.. Turbo is probably most important part for cold air my guess? Flow vs psi? My experience is more on the marine side of engines, And boats do a lot too keep the rooms cool, giant intake fans, water cooled turbine housings, oversize aftercooler(/intercooler). The compressor to after-cooler pipe can be over 200F, So the thought of warm air for a diesel is slight odd to me. Depends on conditions.. Sorry if getting off topic. Any thoughts on the 32” tire with 3.73? Depreciating gains with rotational mass? Thanks.

One more thought on CAI. Application wise, in a cold environment like Alaska, a BHAF sounds like a solid choice. In a warmer climate like Texas, may benefit from a CAI. My S&B can always pull off the top clear cover if in too cold an environment.

Thanks! @Mopar1973Man I couldn’t find that specific unit. I did find a Swagelok 4-CPA2-3. Prefix SS for stainless, B for brass. Couldnt find brass in stock. About 40$. Adjustable poppet check valve from 3-50 psi. I set it to 40, starts to crack at 38. I attached 1/4” hose barbs on either side, and drilled a .040 hole on actuator side. Planning to mount as close to actuator for hose bleed off reasons. I haven’t installed it yet, because I swapped back to RV275s for moment, and putting everything on it, can only get to 34 psi. So Ill have to wait before posting results on that.

My door lists the 245s as well. Current tires are 275/70R18 about 33s, (they rub at locked steering…) Calculating off that say I have a final 3.26 with my 3.55s? Not so great. I did like the larger ‘look’. But Im agreeing more and more, easiest way to gain acceleration or HP numbers is to drop a size. My current tire is stock for the later gens that run the 3.73 gears. Anyone had success with that setup, or a size down from that? Thoughts? Besides a lot of work than just changing tires… For air intake temps, I see around a fairly steady 120F* with my S&B, sea level mild temps. Measured by quad. I haven’t tested it against stock or anything. Probably negligible? I wouldn’t delete my intercooler or anything looking for warmer temps though! I think the 140 sounds reasonable. Certainly good data on cold or freezing temps! I swapped back to the RV275s to try more for fuel milage tuning right now. I can stand on the throttle up grades and barley hit 1300 EGTs. Sort of an oxymoron there I know, go for fuel milage, then stand on the skinny pedal