Jesnic

Auto Module Source is a good company. They have done a few ecms and pcms and a few other computer issues for me and I have never had a problem with them. As a matter of fact, I just recieved a pcm and ecm for my truck and they work great. The ecm controls the vp44. There is a fuel relay in the pdc. Make sure it works or switch it with the ac relay. They are the same. When you turn the key on three times and get no code info, that is a problem. It reads the PCM first, then the ECM. Bluechip diesel has a test you can run on the vp44 to make sure it is working. If you have fuel from the pump to the filter, then you have fuel at the vp44. Crack injector lines 1,3 and 5. Bump the key to the start position and allow the supply pump to run for 25 seconds, this should vent the air from the fuel supply system. Then crank the engine over until you start to get fuel out of the loosened injection (lines 1, 3 and 5), tighten each line as it begins to deliver fuel. The engine should start, but will run rough until the air is purged from the system. NOTE: Do Not crank the engine for more than 10 seconds before letting the starter cool down. Process taken from Oregondiesel website The ecm and pcm have to be for a manual trans for your truck. The computers for autos will not work. As for the computer on top of the vp44, no one rebuilds just the computer that I am aware of. They need the entire vp44 to rebuild. I do have a spare vp44. - - - Updated - - - Taken from Bluechipdiesel.com [h=2]IMPORTANT DIAGNOSTIC FACT: TO MAKE THE ENGINE START AND IDLE ONLY, YOU DON’T NEED ANY SENSORS OR COMPUTERS OR ELECTRIC LIFT PUMP. YOU ONLY NEED 12 VOLT POWER, GROUND, AND FUEL TO THE VP44.[/h][h=2]NO START – TEST #1[/h][h=3]FUEL SUPPLY TEST[/h]If the fuel gauge reads 1/8 – 1/4 of a tank, put a few gallons in the tank and bleed the fuel system. I say this because of the famous Dodge fuel tank sender problem. Your gauge may have just failed and be out of calibration for the first time and the tank is actually empty. In this situation air AND fuel is what you are trying to start the engine with! Pressure indicators don’t know the difference between air and fuel pressure, so they make you falsely think all is OK. You will be very glad you did this if your truck runs again and you don’t need an Injection Pump! If the engine was running BEFORE you CHANGED THE FUEL FILTER or OPENED A FUEL LINE, and it HASN’T STARTED SINCE, or, it started and stalled after doing this, and it WON’T BLEED or restart, and you can hear the Lift Pump running, but won’t fill the filter canister, you most likely have a bad electric Lift Pump. That’s a long complicated sentence, so reread it again slowly for clarification! Please remember when you are doing this diagnosis that the ECM turns on the electrical power to the Lift Pump only for 4 seconds when the key is in the “on” or “run” position. When the ECM sees the “start” signal from the ignition switch it runs the lift pump for 25 seconds, and when it sees idle RPM it runs continuously. If the lift pump doesn’t come on, or doesn’t pump fuel into the filter canister when you click the key to the “start” and release it to the “run” position, you can bleed the system to get fuel to the VP44 and get the engine to run again by pressurizing the fuel tank with air pressure, or diagnosing and replacing the electric Lift Pump. The reason this strange scenario happens, is because there is a mechanical lift pump built into the VP44 which works fine UNTIL air gets into the system. This explains why VP44 fueled engines don’t die on the side of the road when the electric one fails. [h=2]NO START – TEST #2[/h][h=3]FUEL SYSTEM ELECTRICAL TEST[/h]Next test the electrical wiring and verify that there is battery voltage getting to the VP44 with the key in the “run” AND ”start” positions. Remove the big plug on the back of the injection pump by wiggling the plug with your right hand pulling toward the firewall and the left hand pulling the indented locking tab toward the fender. When you have the plug in your hand, hold it so it looks like a smiley face, with six pins below the smile and three pins above. Using a test light or voltmeter with its ground connection on the engine, verify battery voltage on the bottom right pin (pin #7, which is a red wire with a light green tracer on a Dodge), during both “run” and “start” key functions. Then verify the ground on the bottom left pin (pin#6, which is a black wire with a tan tracer on a Dodge), by doing the voltage test again at pin 7 with the ground connector of your test instrument on pin 6 in the plug. If you see no voltage then, it means there is no ground! Use only pin positions, not wire color, when diagnosing a Ford or Freightliner. If you don’t have power at the plug, check the fuse in the PDC (Power Distribution Center, aka fuse box under the hood) for the fuel system, and if that is good, check fuse #9 in the fuse box on the left side of the dash. If they are both good, then try swapping the fuel system relay in the PDC with the one for the horn. Hopefully you find your problem this easily, but if not, get out the schematic for this circuit. If you don’t have one, go to ALLDATAdiy.com . If you have battery voltage on pin #7 in both key positions, and a known good ground on pin 6, cut the black tape off the VP44 plug harness to access the wires going into the plug and reinstall plug. On a Dodge find the light blue wire with a red tracer (pin #5 on other trucks) and verify that there is NOT battery voltage there during either the “run” or the “start” functions of the ignition switch, WITH THE PLUG PLUGGED IN. The ONLY time there should be battery voltage on pin 5, is for about three seconds after turning the key to the “off” position. If there is battery voltage there at any other time, the engine is being told to not start or run, by a pissed off ECM. This test is accurate 99% of the time in my experience. It is not unusual and OK to see low voltage, like .2 - 2.4 volts at pin 5. The important thing here is to NOT have battery voltage there, and if you do have it at the wrong times, I have found cutting that wire fixes the problem and running the truck forever that way, causes no harm! [h=2]NO START TEST #3[/h][h=3]HOT WIRE TEST - THE "FOR SURE TEST" TO DETERMINE IF THE VP44 IS WHY THE ENGINE WON'T START[/h]It is very rare, but possible, for a problem with the wiring harness or the CAN Bus wires to prevent the engine from starting, so if you want to be 100% sure it IS the Injection Pump causing the no start, follow the following directions exactly, to be sure of not damaging a possibly good pump. This test POSITIVELY eliminates the possibility of overlooking an electrical problem caused by other components that could affect the start or run function of the VP44, as long as you have verified fuel delivery to the Injection Pump. Remove the electrical plug at the back of the Injection Pump and hot wire the pins on the pump as follows. Get two wires long enough to reach from the battery to the VP44. Install an INSULATED ¼ inch female spade connector onto one end of each wire. Connect one INSULATED connector to pin 7 on the pump, which is the pin on the BOTTOM row of the socket on the Injection Pump, closest to the engine, to preferably fused (10 amp is fine) positive battery power in the PDC (Fuse box under the hood), or directly to the positive battery terminal if you like to take risks! Connect the other INSULATED connector to the pin directly above the previous connection, the top row of pins, the one closest to the engine, and attach the other end to battery ground. Now try to start the engine and if it doesn’t start, you absolutely positively 100% need an Injection Pump! If the engine starts this way but NOT with the big plug installed on the pump, you know there is something in the harness or CAN bus wiring to the ECM telling or causing the engine to not start. Call me for help if this is the case. [h=2]IF YOU HAVE FUEL, POWER AND GROUND, PROVEN BY THE ABOVE TESTS AND STILL HAVE NO START AFTER TEST 3, YOU ABSOLUTELY POSITIVELY NEED AN INJECTION PUMP![/h]If you want more proof, or really want to know WHY it won’t start, loosen all of the injector lines at the valve cover. Crank the engine for 30 seconds, and if fuel comes out of only one line, better than the others, this indicates a seized rotor, and the engine will never run again until you change the VP44, because only one cylinder is getting fuel. For the engine to start you need HIGH PRESSURE fuel, AND NOT AIR, to POP OFF at least three of the injectors. If you have only a feeble fuel flow from the open lines, you are looking at only Lift Pump pressure, and the engine will never start. To determine if it is or is not HIGH pressure, look for a puddle on the ground after 60 seconds of cranking. No puddle, no high pressure. If high pressure fuel doesn’t come out of the open lines when cranking, the solenoid pintle valve may be stuck, or the pistons may be stuck compressed in the rotor, due to fuel contamination or corrosion. Low pressure can also be caused by an electrical issue in the computer, where the computer doesn’t energize and close the fuel solenoid to make high pressure, so low fuel pressure going through the injector lines is WHY the engine won’t start. Any of these situations confirms that the engine will not start until you replace the VP44, as long as you have done the other tests above.

Here's mine. A little here and a little there.

Sharp looking truck! Love the 2nd gens. Is the bumper capable to mount a winch also?

I just replaced my pcm with a reman one, programmed with my vin, mileage, etc... I removed the external VR and wired everything back to factory. The voltage is back on line where should be. Everything seems to be running as it should. I still have the 0622 code and the 1765 code. Maybe they will go away after a few key cycles or warm up cycles? I left the grid heaters unhooked for now and will monitor. Mike, what does it take for the truck to erase the codes itself?

Won't even crank? Dead batteries? Apps code shouldn't create a no start. Apps code is set after running and pcm/ecm see a different voltage at apps sensor. Sunds like you have a drain somewhere on batteries. Shorted out wire somewhere draining battery. Does your fuel guage read when you turn the truck key to on position, but not start. If so, there is fuel to the vp44. Check injector lines and tubes for leaks. Crack a couple lines and see if fuel is coming out or air.

Do you have any electronics on truck? Are the gauges working, does the WTS come on, does the gen light come on, aftermarket fuel pump? You have done the key trick and no codes? Does the scanner and OBDII communicate? More info is needed. Fill out your sig with any mods done. Stock injectors? Oil full? Batteries charged to full? - - - Updated - - - Who did the ecu and pcm work?

Good call! The stock turbos are designed to provide enough air for the stock or maybe 40 over injectors. When you start trying to add stock air to big fuel sticks is when you have problems. As in melt downs from exhaust heat or trying to push that small turbine way past the point of no return. Been there, done that.

When I was running the hy35, I welded the wastegate. It lasted about two weeks until I overspun it. The hx35 I replaced it with lasted about a week before I overspun that one as well. Stepped up to a garrett ball bearing. No problems since.

Bih honking air filter

Small prying tool like a pick or screwdriver. It is held on with a snap ring in front of it. Remove snap ring and it falls off. Removing the silencer ring doesn't do anything for performance. It just makes the turbo audible, especially with a BHAF.

7x10 sticks and comp box should roll over those tires. Hx35 is holding you back. But it still should spin em easily.

http://ts2.mm.bing.net/th?id=H.5004599849256119&pid=15.1 Silencer ring.

I believe the over flow valve (ball detent) allows anything over 14 psi to go back to the tank and keep fuel flowing to keep the vp44 cool and lubricated. If the ball sticks and the small orifice is clogged, the fuel can't go anywhere and just accumulates in the injection pump and can't cool itself ot lubricate itself. WHen the fuel gets backed up it would create pressure when shut off, if I am thinking right. Kinda like a garden hose when you turn on the water and step on the line to stop flow and then turn the water off, there is still pressure in the line until it is released somehow. Could be wrong though.

If you ever add bigger sticks or need more fuel, 3/8" is probably not big enough. I have the 1/2 line and I can still pull the fuel down pretty hard. - - - Updated - - - Oh yeah, get rid of the banjo bolts also, if you want to move some fuel. They are very restrictive when you start needing fuel.

I ran the raptor 100 and a big line about 6 years ago. Kept the original fuel filter. It wouldn't keep up with the fuel I needed and I smoked it. I upgraded to the raptor 150 and have been running it for 5 years. I can still pull it down 10+ lbs when I get on it. I have been running 23 - 24 lbs at idle for 5 years. WOT will pull it down to 15 lbs with a clean filter.

Add a fuel pressure gauge and airdog, raptor or fass. With the comp box and running the stock lift pump, it is just a matter of time before the lift pump can't handle the amount of fuel the comp box is requiring. Next thing to go will be the vp44. Not cheap. Could also be the ball detent valve in the vp44 pump not functioning properly and not allowing the fuel to return to the tank, therefore pressurizing the fuel line back to tank.

Ordered a PCM from Auto Module Source today. I sent them my vin # and all pertinent info and they said no problem. Should I erase all codes before changing it out? I also orderd the ECU as well, just to be sure. It just really doesn't make any sense as to where the gauge would see the voltage increase and trigger the check gauge lamp when the alternator is taken out of the circuit. The PCM is generating this signal from somewhere and sending it only to the gauge, nowhere else.

I used the gen source wire as my +12 volts for the VR. I used a connector and tied the two wires together to go the VR. So one wire goes From the Gen source (+12) to the top post of the VR. I added a seperate wire with this one to go from the Vr top post to the gen. The other wire goes from the gen to to the bottom post of the VR. The altternator (gen) is not in runaway. It is producing 14.5- 15 volts constantly. The problem is that the lights (all lights) are pulsing and the volt meter in the truck runs up to 18 volts after about 10 mins run time and triggers the check gauges light. The alternator is producing 14.5 - 15 volts constantly, measured with a Fluke 75 meter.

Gonna try it right now. Back in a minute with results. - - - Updated - - - Ran the gauge cluster check, no codes. Everything worked just like your video. - - - Updated - - - Does the PCM report a different reading to the cluster than it does to the OBDII port? - - - Updated - - - where would the best place be to order a new pcm? The dealer has qouted me $1100 for diagnostic test, pcm repalcement and programming. Is there any other route worth taking? - - - Updated - - - Mike, I know you are a very busy man and full of knowledge. If you could take a look at what I am dealing with I would greatly appreciate your help. JUst not sure which way to go with this overcharging situation.

What smarty catcher did you load? I had a smarty for quite a few years. It was fun for a bit. It just wsn't what I was looking for for long term. When loaded with the catcher 8 and comp on 6x5, the truck was difficult to drive on wet roads and my wife hated it. It also bellowed black smoke on anyting over 4 catcher. Just wasn't for me. Great product if you are stock or barely over though. With a little amount of work to the tranny, it would work great. I have gone a different route and like the wired in electronics and big injectors and turbos. The smarty didn't really make a big gain in power. I ony saw about 15 hp increase with it. The big thing was the issue with very sudden torque, which it is designed to provide. Personally I like to control the tq with me foot.

Mike, What would cause the ramp up in the truck gauge to read 18 volts and the check gauge to come on? The voltage measured at the batteries and the scan gauge is a constant 14.5 - 15 volts. I removed the wires from the heater grid to make sure they aren't pulling down the charging system.

I unhooked the blue and green from the alternator and taped them, individually. I ran a new blue wire from the alternator F1 to the new ext VR. I also ran a new blue wire from the fuse box, under the hood, at a tested +12 volts to the ext VR. These two blue wires, I crimped them together and attached to the lonely triange post at the ext VR. I then ran a separate green wire from the other post on the ext VR to the alternator, F2. Sound right?

Jag, I apprecaite all your help! That's about where I am at, another VR or take it to the dealer for a new pcm. I am at my wit's end with this truck.

Followed his article exactly. Truck is charging, just gauge reads very high after while and lights are pulsing. I guess the lights pulsing are due to the VR. Just not sure what the next step is.

My volt gauge is maxing out at 18 volts, but my scan gauge and test fluke meter reads 14.7 volts. I have been fighting this for a few days. Can't figure it out.