Direwolf

Good to hear. Everything will definitely be getting anti seize. I hear you on rebuilding the calipers. Did them before when I did 3rd gen brakes, but still ended up sticking. This time I'm gonna try new Raybestos Opti-cal calipers. They are 3rd gen calipers since they dont make them for 2nd. I'll just open the lines up for th 10mm banjo on the 3rd gen calipers and be good to go.

Dont want to hijack the thread, but I am doing this right now. I just tore into my front end after 195k on OEM parts to do ball joints. I went with Timken hubs, and have EMF ball joints to install. Throwing new calipers and lines on as well. Hubs did not want to come out. Which brings me to a related question, how tight of a fit should the new hub have in the knuckle? Despite the old one needing pounding to remove the new one easily slides in and fully seats. Wasn't sure if it should be an interference fit or not?

Here's the link A1auto towing mirrors there are 3 different ones apparently that fit. One has turn signals like the fourth gens. I'm guessing the others are 2nd and 3rd gen styles. They come with the support brackets. I am not sure if these are better than the eBay variety, but they must be better than my clip ons

Thanks guys. I have the dash switch and it does light up so I'll presume all is working. Now just have to decide on some tow mirrors. Anyone have any experience with the ones from a1auto?

It's getting cold and I'm wondering if my heated mirrors are working before it gets icy. I noticed the heated emblem on the mirror itself and was wondering if that is supposed to light up too when on? Most likely going to put some tow mirrors on, but want to check before diving into that project. thanks

I have the MITUSA setup and have had no problems at all. Been about two years and I havent thought about it once. The pump is very similar if not the same as the fuel boss, but is a much simpler design and installation. I have it setup to pull through a filter and h2o separater right out of the tank, then to the pump, and then into the stock filter. Works like a charm.

Passed no problem. Technically can't have a modified intake without a CARB certification. They weren't too concerned about it, besides it takes 2 min to swap the air box. The guy never even did the snap test. Go figure...

Restoring the factory tune should work, regarding the Smarty. That's what the previous owner did and it passed no problem. I cant get it to smoke at right now. I had a tech look at it and he didn't like the bhaf, but said if I showed him I had the stock airbox it would be alright.

Michael, the relay worked perfect. No code. Thanks for the idea as I have a bunch of relays laying around. I should have thought of that. Just gotta put some miles on it and take it on in!

I have heard you need some miles put on too. That's why I have been driving it in stock form and trying to get everything straightened out before I take it in. But man is it gutless without the Smarty. I have heard of people getting hassled for not having the breather puke bottle too, hope that's not the case as mine is long gone. I'll report if the resistor works. Thanks!

Hey all, I have to smog my truck for the first time. I have a mechanical fuel pump as the stock pump died. I usually have the smarty take care of the error code but sine I have the stock tune loaded, the transfer pump code pops up and triggers the engine light. Is this gonna be an issue with smog? Im thinking of trying to put a dummy load on the pump plug of maybe 5ohms? Does this seem plausable or is there an easier way around this? Thanks

I got my MITUSA through Ultimate Transmission in Garden City , Idaho. I think they distribute them now but I was directed there by Opie (who makes the MITUSA). I would check his site opieparts.com too. They sent a small pulley that you mount in a drill, throw the belt around and spin the pump to prime it. Pretty easy and quick.

I went through this decision a year ago and would suggest throwing the MITUSA in the mix with the others. I was initially set on the Fuel Boss, but there was a wait for it and I had a dying LP. So I went with the MITUSA. It is a considerably simpler approach than the fuel boss. So much so the I thought parts were missing when I first unpacked. They assured me there wasn't , and I was quite skeptical if I had made the right decision. It doesn't keep the stock LP in the loop, but I don't consider that a big issue any more. I've had 12,000 mi of problem free operation and never think about it.

I currently have the Cooper ST Maxx in 285/75-16 flavor and have done quite well after 12,000 miles. I wanted something that could handle offroad adventures, but still ride well. I read reviews on everything. The Duratracs are well liked as were the cooper AT3, but not much on the Maxx. I ended up going against my nature and took a bit of a gamble on the slightly more aggressive ST Maxx as I figured I'd rather take a mpg hit than get stuck somewhere super remote. The Michelin LTX that were on it before were down right scary on loose gravel roads. On the highway the Coopers are quite good with very acceptable noise. On their first road trip to Yellowstone (4,000 mi) I averaged 20.3 mpg fully loaded with a couple hundred miles of offroad meandering mixed in. They are a good compromise between an AT and MT tire.

While a bit relieved I'm not the only one, it's a bit of a bummer that this seems to be somewhat common. I have no recollection if the passenger side key will trigger it, something I will keep an eye out for, as well as the steering wheel situation. Does anyone else's only go for 3 honks? I don't know if I have ever let it go that long as I am usually frantically trying to shut it off before I wake everyone up in the complex. Well, before I wake them up by starting the truck...oh well. I'm almost tempted to disconnect the horns and bypass the computer or whatever controls the alarm altogether, and just wire the steering wheel straight to the horns. This it the only goofy thing this truck does, besides a random ABS flash every once in a while.