Lund1990

After reading this I decided I should check if it was in the truck already. Turns out it is. Just gotta use the cruise control buttons. It can be set anywhere between 1,100 - 1,500 rpm's.

Alright. I've heard that the Smarty tuners for this generation also VIN lock, so you can't just have someone use theirs to flash it. Any other tuners that have the capability to flash the ecm?

Has anyone tried the high idle set up that is for the 2nd gens on a early 3rd gen. Just curious about it before I mess something up on my truck.

Yeah, buying another 5 pack. It's for factory plugs and looks to be factory wiring, at least on the 2 I got changed so far. Had to do some surgery to my roof. My guess is that they were installed by a dealer, most likely a specific request from the original owner. Guess it's true, you can't fix stupid.

So I ordered a pack of LED cab lights last fall and just now I'm getting around to installing them after I got thr 2nd 1 on I realized that my truck has 6 cab lights. All the kits are for 5. So I was just wondering if having 6 was an option or if someone installed after the fact. The ones I'm removing seem to be factory.

I guess I was kinda thinking the same thing. I do have an in cab warning might that runs off a T in the fuel line between the factory filter housing and the vp44. But it evidently doesn't work as I found today that the ground wire isn't even hooked to the sensor.

I'm replacing my fuel lines and found a capped banjo fitting on the intake of the stock fuel filter housing. It looks to me as if it were brazed shut. Any ideas as to what it's there for?

NAPA, I don't even step foot in there anymore unless they are they only ones that have something I need today. Or to have my Stihl equipment serviced. Napa is almost always the most expensive place in town. Plus not having to keep track of receipts for warranties is a great service of O'Reilly auto for a guy that loses everything

The test doesn't check for the original viscosity, that's what I wrote down because that's what it calls for, so I figured that is probably what was in there. I'll be able to get a good idea going forward since I'll have changed everything myself.

Most gear oils encountered in the market are designed for Limited Slip Differentials (LSDs) and do not necessitate the addition of a friction modifier. However, if chattering occurs after an oil change, a measured amount of friction modifier may be introduced. It is crucial to note that excessive amounts of friction modifier can also lead to adverse effects.

The only extra power I'm getting is from my little edge tuner that stays on three because I can't turn the piece of junk down without taking it apart. I did put 140 in the rear differential; it's the first time it's been apart since I've owned it. Mind you, I've only put on 20k miles at most. I plan to put SAE 50 in the transmission here within a month. The transfer case just got split, fixed, and filled with fresh ATF. I figure with all this, I may as well change the front differential fluid too.

Had an analysis run on my rear diff oil when I changed it. Everything seemed just fine from what I could tell when I had it apart. But my analysis seems to tell a different story. What are the clutches in the LSD made out of? reardiff.pdf

I'm able to grease all 3 u joints in the shaft just not the ball and socket. With the salt like, Mopar1973man mentioned, it eats up joints. Plus with the hell I put this truck thru occasionally, just think it makes more sense to be able to grease it. Now on my 2004 I wouldn't be as concerned because that basically just my camper/Trailer hauler.

Thanks guys. I'm due for a fluid change anyway. I'll be switching to SAE 50 weight. Then to find this damn oil leak. Entire bottom of front half of truck is covered with oil. It's even on the back side of the block below the head. I'm thinking combination of the crankcase breather and possibly vacuum pump needs new seals

Well damn. I had the shaft rebuilt at fleet pride a few years ago. I would have thought they'd put a greaseable 1 in but I guess not. Thanks for the response.

I've read different things different places, so I'd like some input. Do you guys overfill your nv4500?

https://lugnut4x4.com/product/dana-80-dual-rear-wheel-brake-kit/#choose-your-rotors

I have scraped and cleaned. Can't seem to find the elusive needle grease fitting. Were some driveshafts released without them?

What's this for? To order parts? This is the 2nd transfer case I've put in it. Shelled out 2 DLD's before I got ahold of a DHD. I've got another pickup screen that will work. I'm just stumped on how it happend. I know that I had the screen in the slots when I reassembled after doing the rebuild. Some things just don't make sense.

It was the pick up. It split apart somehow. Tube was bouncing around in the case.

Been having a noise randomly. Drained the T- case today and found this. Any idea wear it could be before I split it. It's coming apart either way, just not sure it'll be tonight.

I would be interested to see those parts. Sounds like I may be changing the fluid in my NV 4500 now that it isn't under warranty.

What benefits are you guys seeing by running ATF in your 5 speed? I currently have Valvoline synchromesh in my 5-speed because that's what the builder said it needed for warranty. I've got severe gear in my 241DHD.

I ended up just getting some AGCO 75w-140 from work. Says it eliminates LSD chatter, so we'll see if I need to add additional Friction modifier. I run CAT in the engine, but only because I work at a Cat dealer and get it for cheap.

Does anybody have opinions on Lucas 75w-140 synthetic gear oil?