Lund1990

I had thought about that, I just figured if I'm able to visually see the values change on the scan tool that the computer must be getting the same values. I'll try unplugging the switches and see what it does. What are the values of the potentiometer that you use? I like that idea quite a bit.

Am I right to assume that the IAT temp that shows on the obd2 scanner is the same sensor as the ecm gets it reading from. I ask because if so this is very confusing as the IAT temp was 50 yesterday and the 3 cylinder high idle still was coming on.

Do you know the temperature that it activates each at? I have my code reader on live data and getting IAT temp of 50 when I first started it. And it still is going into three cylinder

My 2000 2500 is going into 3 cylinder high idle even when its 80ºF out. I do have the high idle switches bit they are set so the truck is getting its true readings. Which sensor is causing this?

Oh that's not a big deal at all. Can always modify the release handle a little. Truck currently doesn't have the grille pieces in anyway. It's my workhorse that gets abused. Nice having one that scratches and stuff don't bother when they happen.

So my 2000 started throwing some odd codes. It's showing a P1698 and a P1689 . No Trans bus messages and egr actuator.... But here is why they're weird. My truck is a 5 speed from factory, and is pre-EGR. Any ideas what could cause this?

I've been looking at some ranchhand front bumpers. I've discovered that they supposedly don't for the sport model. Does anyone know what the difference is and why it won't fit? Is it an easy modification to get it to fit?

Does anyone have a part number or place to source the bushing for the master cylinder push rod to clutch pedal. Can't find one anywhere.

I believe I've figured out what fbfs culprit is in this problem. I'm fairly certain now after chatting on another forum and doing some checking/testing, that my instrument cluster is causing the problem. What place is recommended in fixing these clusters?

I didn't bother with any of it. I just ordered a trans online, came out of Tennessee I think. This was like 5-6 years ago. Bad trans is just sitting around the acreage.

Just catching up on this. Thought I'd share a picture of the carnage i had on the day I bought my 2000. I didn't make it 10 miles before this happened. I was 90% sure that the hum was coming from a front hub assembly. I was very, very wrong. Ended up being that the tail housing was cracked and there was basically no fluid left.

Find a harbor freight for cheap tools and pull off the tail casing figure out what's going on. 2wd or 4wd? Not much difference in the amount of work tho.

I haven't stacked tuners. That i know better than to do. Truck just feels like it's got way more power with the smarty over the edge. Maybe I'll have to plug the edge back in. I got both of these tuners with my 2 2nd gens I own. I'll check out the quadzilla. Just have a hard time justifying the cost with the condition of these trucks. Although I may start cutting apart and welding in new body panels this spring.

So i kinda got it. I tried a battery charger like I saw on another forum. Nothing. So I unhooked the batteries for a while , tried again and it loaded stock SW but at the end said error 14. Tried loading catcher and went back to like it was last night. I unhooked the batteries again for a bit. Got it programmed back to stock but got the error 14 again. Truck starts and runs tho at the moment. Nervous to try loading a catcher again. I like the smarty tune much more then the edge comp box that was run on it before, no longer hooked up.

I have. I get through turning the key off and back on. It says it was interrupted and asks to install stock software. When it goes to so that I get and error comm time out

That's what I'm kinda trying to avoid. Got friends with software on laptop and connections to reprogram auto computers. But if it needs fixing prior to that I'm not sure if I'm able to source the parts. Soldering on a pcb isn't difficult for me these days. I struggle to pay others to fix things I can teach myself to fix. But I may end up having to break down and do this.

So I was changing the tune in my 2000 when the smarty cable got disconnected. Now I keep getting "error comm time out" when it tries to restore it to stock tune. Is the ECM toasted?

That's what I had thought. After reading previous comments and researching I'm almost positive it is gonna be the TIPM needs to be rebuilt. Does Anyone know, is it solder connections that break that causes the problems a TIPM gives out?

So in other words, this is going to be a really mf'er to figure out. Never mind. Looks like I'll be buying a rebuild TIPM

Here is the short video of what it does. Seems to me it'd be like the stock security system, but i don't believe this truck has a chipped key. https://youtube.com/shorts/XbxbDSBhWXI?si=NB0pe7QH5kghXzvV

I'll load it to YouTube later today. It only does it for a few minutes then stops until the door is opened, the cycle starts over then.

Well, i took a video to upload and show what it does. But it won't allow me to upload it no matter what I try.

It definitely takes longer. The truck it came out off of was a pulling machine tho. It wasn't quick by any means, pulled like a freight train tho

That's the exact reason why I'm still running the stock turbo. It's nice and snappy. Donor truck was set up for towing large loads and doing pulls. It also had propane injection before. The smaller turbo is an s300 variant. Haven't done much research to find sizes. I've actually been contemplating adding a belt driven supercharger too, just for the instant boost. I saw a video where a guy had taken one from a gm 3800. It actually seemed like it quirked pretty good. Plus it provided boost at all times, even just a little at idle.

I have a pyrometer and a boost gauge. It's a 24 year old **** box. I'm not always the nicest to it. But the previous owner was definitely harder on it. Stock manifold was pretty damn rusted too. The 3 piece came off truck with compound set up and never had any problem. The compounds are going to go on this truck I think, after it's warm again. Bigger one is a 109mm off of a 14L Cummins. It's all just money, right?