Lund1990

Thank you. I didn't find much online either. I was just hoping someone had had this happen before. Seems like it would be something a vehicle would do for the security, but i have a black key for truck.

Not that. I own 3 cummins I know about grid heaters. They actually turn off and back on. Like 1 second each way. Does it for a few minutes them stops.

I have a 2004 crew cab short box that when I start the headlights, tail lights, and blinkers all blink for a few minutes. Any idea what the cause is?

I just put a stage 6 dual disc clutch from south bend in it over the weekend out of my truck with cracked block. Bearing seemed fine so I used it. I did get it all pulled as 1 unit, actually balanced on the jack very well. Bearing still seems fine. I think the squeal I'm getting is from the pressure plate fingers not having enough pressure against the Bearing when the clutch is engaged fully. Pivot ball is slightly worn. I put a washer behind the pivot ball, and put the new Bearing in anyways. Hopefully button it all back up tonight before work, bed is calling my name.

I need to quickly getbny throw out bearing changed before leaving for a trip tomorrow. Thinking of I pull both cross members that I should be able to pull the trans and transfer case as one unit with out draining the fluids that are brand new. Has anyone done this?? Is there enough room? I have a HD trans jack, so I'm not worried about weight.

I was towing a trailer last night and noticed that my brake lights were not working. I've dug into it a little bit. Ive tested all the fuses and they're good. I've done continuity test on the brake switch and it is good. i have turn signals and 4 way flashers, but i don't have any brake lights. Any ideas?

i was moving my 2004 2500 around today, i noticed that while i had it running the headlights and taillights were blinking about once every second. I didn't have the headlight switch on even . Does anyone have any ideas what could cause this?

I replaced mine with a steeI replacement from Heater Treater. Never have to worry again.

There doesn't appear to be link for a 2000 FSM. So do I use the 99 or the 01?

Vehicle Nickname: Financial Mistake Date Added To The Garage: 2024-05-29 Garage Link: Financial Mistake

Every website has an opinion one way or the other on the trans heat exchanger. So, what is the consensus here? Do I replace it or delete it and put a under bed cooler on it?

It's a 2000 Ram 2500 single cab long box. Cummins with a nv4500. Standard 2 bulb headlights. Not a Canadian truck. And the only mod to the fog lights would be the wires were cut when the bumper was removed and soldered back together.

So I've noticed a few times when I get back out to my truck from going in the store that my fog lights will be on randomly. Switch off, no headlights. Just fog lights. Any ideas what the cause could be?

This one is a 2004 Auto. I've got a 2000 with an NV4500, and a 98.5 with a built NV4500, stage 6 south bend clutch, compound turbos, and a cracked 53 block....

After reading this I decided I should check if it was in the truck already. Turns out it is. Just gotta use the cruise control buttons. It can be set anywhere between 1,100 - 1,500 rpm's.

Alright. I've heard that the Smarty tuners for this generation also VIN lock, so you can't just have someone use theirs to flash it. Any other tuners that have the capability to flash the ecm?

Has anyone tried the high idle set up that is for the 2nd gens on a early 3rd gen. Just curious about it before I mess something up on my truck.

Yeah, buying another 5 pack. It's for factory plugs and looks to be factory wiring, at least on the 2 I got changed so far. Had to do some surgery to my roof. My guess is that they were installed by a dealer, most likely a specific request from the original owner. Guess it's true, you can't fix stupid.

So I ordered a pack of LED cab lights last fall and just now I'm getting around to installing them after I got thr 2nd 1 on I realized that my truck has 6 cab lights. All the kits are for 5. So I was just wondering if having 6 was an option or if someone installed after the fact. The ones I'm removing seem to be factory.

I guess I was kinda thinking the same thing. I do have an in cab warning might that runs off a T in the fuel line between the factory filter housing and the vp44. But it evidently doesn't work as I found today that the ground wire isn't even hooked to the sensor.

I'm replacing my fuel lines and found a capped banjo fitting on the intake of the stock fuel filter housing. It looks to me as if it were brazed shut. Any ideas as to what it's there for?

NAPA, I don't even step foot in there anymore unless they are they only ones that have something I need today. Or to have my Stihl equipment serviced. Napa is almost always the most expensive place in town. Plus not having to keep track of receipts for warranties is a great service of O'Reilly auto for a guy that loses everything

The test doesn't check for the original viscosity, that's what I wrote down because that's what it calls for, so I figured that is probably what was in there. I'll be able to get a good idea going forward since I'll have changed everything myself.

Most gear oils encountered in the market are designed for Limited Slip Differentials (LSDs) and do not necessitate the addition of a friction modifier. However, if chattering occurs after an oil change, a measured amount of friction modifier may be introduced. It is crucial to note that excessive amounts of friction modifier can also lead to adverse effects.

The only extra power I'm getting is from my little edge tuner that stays on three because I can't turn the piece of junk down without taking it apart. I did put 140 in the rear differential; it's the first time it's been apart since I've owned it. Mind you, I've only put on 20k miles at most. I plan to put SAE 50 in the transmission here within a month. The transfer case just got split, fixed, and filled with fresh ATF. I figure with all this, I may as well change the front differential fluid too.