Mace

I’ve owned my truck since new. I don’t care about mileage, what I desire is a modern drivetrain that is the same or better then what’s offered today. I find my fun in modifying things. I also live in mountains where I burn nothing going down and lots going up. I want my truck to compete with today’s 500 hp HO F450 that can gooseneck up to 40k lbs and not sweat without ever buying one. Well that’s asking a lot I suppose lol. 2nd gens are gone forever now I just want to live in the past again :’)

Well. The Dana 60 came standard in everything else (like Ford) with the mentioned items. Its neutered for Dodge for whatever reason. High pinion reduces the front driveshaft angle for one and its “stronger” for placing the pinion gear above the crown gear vs the low pinion/reverse cut we have. Most Dana 60’s came spec’s with 35 spline shafts stock vs our 30 (32 on the later ones). AAM’s are 33. Bigger spline = great diameter shaft. 3.73 is run by Ram now (& Ford). Seems to be the sweet spot vs 3.54 and the big jump to 4.10. Cad was another thing that is a Chrysler creation too. Go on Dana Spicers website and spec a diff they don’t offer any of the Dodge things which makes me wonder by Dana did it in the first place.

The part number isn’t Cummins. Again fake. If you google “6bt power steering pump” their page with it advertised will show up in your results. Oh my bad I put the wrong number in I was going by memory! I corrected the number in the mod post. The pump kit on their website though is pump, studs & gasket. And as of yesterday when I checked their price went from $178 USD to whatever it is now so they’re selling like hotcakes after I made that post on a couple of fb pages I once belonged to after I did my mod.

My truck came originally spec’s with the non cad 60. Few years ago it blew up and I found a non cad 60 in a junk yard and swapped it in. I installed EMF balljoints and the Yukon free spin kit. I like the idea of nothing turning inside as over time the seals wear into the shafts & pinion yoke as with the oem system. They also don’t utilize unitized seals like AAM. I will eventually swap it out with a Dynatrac 60 as they make them still for 2nd gens and you can get 35 spline shafts, high pinion housing and 3.73 ratio.

I’m sure there is. Anything can be improved upon. I'm just stating what the ISB calls for. Those 3 are knock-offs. Just wanted to show a pic with a Cummins part number to show how crafty they’ve gotten. Just use what you have and you’ll be fine.

I’m new here. But saying that I want to pass some info on to members about the 24v apps that should not be overlooked. Cummins does NOT make the apps for our trucks. They don’t even sell them. It’s the responsibility of the oem to make a control apparatus for their engines. Cummins makes engines not control mechanisms. The correct apps for our trucks is the Williams Control (WC) 131973. Holdwell makes the jumper harness to go to the Duetsch connector on the ISB engine harness. The amount of fake ones available online is staggering. If their name isn’t on the sensor or it’s blank it’s counterfeit. So, if you got a “Timbo” it’s just a repackaged WC. He even says it on his website. Good idea though I wish I thought of it. Any oem truck dealership will sell the WC one they’re quite common in older midrange ISB equipped trucks. Not very expensive either. I bought a Timbo years ago before I realized we have a drawer full of them at work. Ugh! Go onto the Cummins store online and put in 3970085 and see what it comes up with. Nothing! Why? Because they don’t make or sell them. If you bought a fake one and it’s working for you then right on! They’re not consistent on their quality. I work for a Kenworth dealership and the number doesn’t even work for us. Be aware.

John - The Timbo apps is just a repackaged WC. He even says it on his website. Highway robbery if you ask me. We sell them for pennies compared to his price. Good scam though. IBM - the vacuum pump is used in 3rd gens as well. It’s quite common.

Apps relocation mod is simple. Just need some fab skills. Your not changing anything, just moving the apps from the noisey, dirty, vibraty engine to inside. Once the bell crank & cable is removed you’ll need to remove the pedal assembly from the floor. Not the aluminum mount just the pedal. You need a pedal assembly as suggested. You’ll have to make a custom bracket to mount the pedal to that’ll mount to the old aluminum pedal mount. Throw away the no name apps that comes with the new pedal and install yours or a Williams Control (WC) one so you know it’ll function correctly. Make a jumper harness from engine harness connector to the pedal, just have to pin the connectors the same way front to back so it matches the engine side connector. I’d suggest using the same hole in firewall the old cable went through with a grommet. THEN pin and connect the harness wires to the connector base vs drilling a big hole 7/8” in the firewall. Secure the harness to various points to make it clean and trouble free. I can’t tell you how to make the bracket I can only show you what I did in pics for ideas. I don’t want to give incorrect info and then you getting mad at me. It’s not difficult but it took me a couple times before I got it spot on. The bottom bolts through the pivot pin in the old pedal (vide grips will remove it - just turn it out). The top side mounts to an existing in the upper part of the aluminum bracket so it stays rigid. This mod isn’t too expensive (under $400 for me at the time). It’s time consuming but worth it! Parts: 699-5101 pedal (Rockauto) 1x 6 pin male/female Duetsch connector(s) 6-8 feet of 6 wire harness 131973 apps (Williams Control) Here’s the vacuum pump mod: Since I still need vacuum I added the Super Duty setup. My truck only needs vacuum for hvac and the exhaust brake. I have a non cad Dana 60 so all those lines are not there at the diff & transfer case. My cruise is ecm controlled. Parts: CON166 - pump connector (Rockauto) VCP112 - vacuum pump (Rockauto) Vacuum hose Mini fuse tap connector 4 pin relay & base connector I mounted the pump to the fuse box cover. I attached a 4 pin relay to the pump bracket. Pin 30 is right from pdc positive cable, pin 87 goes to the spliced in pump connector. The pump ground and pin 86 are spliced together and ground to fender stud. Pin 85 is triggered from 10a fuse tap for radio in dash fuse panel, then run a wire out to the relay. Pump only comes on with key is in ignition/start stage. It’s turns off when vacuum is achieved by an internal governor. The pump only uses 2 pins but the connector comes with 4. I depinned the connector to get rid of the 2 wires not needed. You can run the vacuum line out to your firewall vacuum line and connect it but mine runs 8” or so to a bracket that the exhaust brake solenoid is mounted to. I have a tee in the inlet that I use to run to the firewall oem vacuum line. If & when the pump dies it’s 5 minutes to replace it. You won’t hear the pump until key on and you don’t hear it at all with the engine running. No more vacuum pump oil leaks was the selling point for me So here’s how I did the power steering mod & vacuum pump: Parts for PS: 4002056 plug - Cummins RES0161 reservoir - Rockauto 4988390 pump kit - Cummins performance.com M20x1.5 to 6 jic fitting I mounted the reservoir to the driver battery hold down rod using some p clamps. It’s rigid and clean and removable if need be. The ports on the reservoir are 3/4” and 3/8”. I ran both the steering box & hydroboost returns to the reservoir and lucky for me they’re 3/8” as well. I removed the fitting out of the block and put a proper plug in it, be aware it’s not npt or orb but a metric size. Or I guess you could just put a #4 jic cap on the original fitting. Once the oem vacuum pump assembly is removed. You’ll need to install the studs with some red loc-tite, don’t bottom the studs out in the timing case or you won’t have enough for the nut to grab onto. This is key. The low pressure supply fitting is 7/8”. You’ll need to remove it and have a machine shop turn it down to 3/4” for proper fitment. Also the fitting won’t come off with the pump mounted :/ ask me how I know. The pressure side needs a straight fitting (see above in parts list). It’s crucial to find the pressure fitting in steel as it’s rated for better pressure than an aluminum one say from Amazon (aluminum equivalent is rated for 1500 psi). Once that’s dealt with run a hose from reservoir around the intake pipe the pump supply port and secure it you deem fit. For the pressure hose simply remove the old hose from the hydroboost and cut the old pump side fitting end off and crimp on a 90* 6 jic fitting (3/8”). It’ll reach perfectly once it’s reinstalled. Refill system with ATF and bleed system by locking wheels left & right in the air. ***The pump is from China. The part number doesn’t cross over to anything genuine Cummins. But it’s rated for 1450 psi/3.4 gpm and puts the oem Saginaw pump to shame*** I had a problem with not able to turn wheels at a stop in my truck, soon as I started to go the assist would kick in and I could turn. Now I can power lock left & right at idle/stop with no effort.

John, I works as a truck mechanic at a Kenworth dealership. I’ve seen tons of midrange trucks come though with ISB’s and they all run an electronic pedal. I figured I could make one as well since the cable bellcrank in mine was sloppy and kinda a stupid design. I wanted to clean up the engine bay as well. I use an International truck pedal assembly with a WC sensor mounted on a custom bracket and I use a jumper harness from the engine harness plug to the new pedal. The idea isn’t original but I’ve never seen one in a 2nd gen.

IBM - It’s not complicated. I had some pains in finding some parts to make it clean vs how some others have done it (ps/vacuum mod). I like to make things look like they came out of the factory. if your interested I can supply all part numbers I just have to look them all up again. Also I’m doing this all by my phone so it’s kinda slow. Tractor - As for the apps I can take some fresh pics tomorrow in the light. I use a Williams Control apps as they made the original one, my throttle is crisp and perfect and I haven’t had an issue in the 2 years since I did it. I made a custom bracket to mount it where the old one goes. Here’s a couple I have on my phone still. You can see the bellcrank is gone and the reservoir is mounted. I’m at 423k km and counting. i have some other mods in the works for drivetrain to make it bulletproof. Still gathering parts but will make a post when it comes together.

My name is Mace. I'm a looong time lurker on here. Before here I was active on contributions for Dave Fritz’s site before it disappeared. I’ve been following 2nd gens since they debuted. I bought mine new in 01’ and still rock it! I recently deleted my fb association with 2nd Gen Cummins as it’s not technical enough for me. I thrive on modifications that make our trucks more competitive & mechanically modern. The W-T mods I discovered here and installed sealed the deal to jump ship. I’ve completed some neat modifications on my truck I’m happy to share. Here’s a couple: • Engine side APPS delete (complete electronic pedal - no cable/bellcrank) • Vacuum/ps pump delete to midrange pump only/remote reservoir setup • Electric vacuum pump (Super Duty) replacement for above mod. • Quad headlights with upgraded relay harnesses with DRL-1 module so I can maintain my drl requirement (I’m Canadian) Anyways, hope to sponge as much info as I can. If I can help give me a shout. Cheers!