Mace

I have the 6spd but I’ll look into Nations. Had a good run of 24 years but I guess it’s just 2nd gen luck! I did the wt mod 2 years ago I never had issues up till then but it seemed like a good idea to just do it.

It’s worse now. The rpm is surging pretty bad, enough that I can’t drive it safely. My current alternator is 5 years old now maybe I should throw a new one on. Any recommendations on that or will a parts house one suffice?

Anything I can do to prevent it from happening again? I read the alternator can cause this?

Maybe some of you gents can help me now? Truck starting getting some bumpy rpms this afternoon. Drove it a bit and now it’s limping along with erratic idle. CEL on now. Codes I have: p0606 p0113 p0118 p0121 p0123 I read an article from here with someone with the same issues/codes and it was an ecm failure. I have the WT mods done, batts are clean & tight. I’m sitting on the side of the road right now so I thought id drop this topic. Any recommend ecm rebuilders?! Thoughts?

I’m glad it worked out. What a difference Ive had to replace my electric pump recently already as mine died. I replaced it with a Dorman one. See how long that lasts…

Here’s another idea: I’m looking at an Air Dog 100 5G for simplicity. I like how their kit uses the ecm lift pump connector for its relay trigger. I suppose I could use a relay with a diode suppressor to protect the ecm. So it’s either a dedicated draw straw or a tank sump to supply fuel to the AD. I see on AD’s website they have a plastic 3/8”connector to 1/2” barb fitting. Could I use the oem 3/8” fuel module supply port to fuel the AD? It would be cleaner, I already have a draw straw in the tank for the Webasto. Edit: Nevermind, their kit does draw from the oem module supply fitting.

I said that too for the first 22 years of ownership, now I’ll never own anything without one.

I really like that Fleece in tank powerflo pump setup. Pricey though

Timbo doesn’t make an apps. He resells a Williams Control one, I made a post about this explaining it as I feel it’s huge scam. He even claims on his website as to what he sells. I listed the part number for everyone as it shouldn’t be a secret. Apps in the engine bay is an outdated idea. They don’t don’t do it anymore. They moved it from the engine to underneath the driver battery on later 3rd gens to now it’s a pedal combination. Where it’s safe from vibration and the elements.

I’m ocd when I make harnesses I can not have splices or unions. John, you can buy Duetsch terminal pliers for crimping the terminals on and avoid splices/unions. Your apps is still in the engine bay so it’s susceptible to moisture and the elements.

I truly believe that the amount of apps sensor failures are because of the vibration they absorb being engine mounted. Ram eventually went to a pedal apps setup in the later 3rd gens. Well done, looks good!

I never noticed that noise. I mean we pretty much drive farm tractors with rocket ship engines. I was just happy if it started in the morning

Thanks! It’s worth its weight in gold. K19, there’s an engine I haven’t seen in a while. I still miss the 444 and the N14. Times have changed.

I’ve had my fuel boss on for years. No issues other then replacing dried out cracked rubber fuel lines over time. I want to delete my oem fuel filter and run a frame mounted setup like GDP’s stand alone filter w/ heater. By using a FS19596 filter I can have a connection for the oem wif sensor. I also want to delete the oem electric lift pump. Has anyone here bypassed the stock lift pump and ran straight mechanical? And if so how did you plumb it? Im thinking 3/8” line from tank to filter, then to mech. pump then to VP44. But I need to regulate the pressure with the bypass valve so should I tee it from the return side up to the vp? The return goes back to tank with that filler neck fitting. Thoughts?

I’m glad your into this as much as I was If you make a better bracket let me know I’ll buy one from you.

I live in Canada. And because I do I got really tired of plugging in my truck during winter in hopes it’ll warm it up enough for easier cold starts. I recommend everyone running of these. Couple years ago I installed a Webasto coolant heater. I’m sure you all know how they work so I won’t explain it. I run an aftermarket bumper so I mounted the Webasto bracket to the old oem support bracket in the passenger side so keep it close to the engine as possible. I plumbed the water lines to engine via the water pump housing lower outlet (where the trans cooler fitting would have been if it was equipped). The pump is located up by the R/H battery and plumbed into the firewall heater core inlet. I’ve deleted the pipe that runs under the turbo to clean it up. I’ve run the electrical & fuel line through the frame rail attached to various points with p clamps to keep things in place. The controller is in the glove box and I can control it via an app on my phone for programmed starts. Stay warm!

The pin comes out. I literally put a pair of vice grips on it and it threaded out with a little force.

I don’t need a manual high idle. I was saying that mine is enabled by ecm for cold weather. I don’t run a pto or anything where I need to control it. I don’t even have it tuned. Stock power with RV275’s :D

All I did was put my apps on the new pedal assembly. I’m not sure how many rotational degrees it is but it worked the same as the old bellcrank setup. I have full throttle 0-100% when I tested it out of the truck. I would rather the apps not bottom out on each side of its sweep. Keep me updated. I don’t have a high idle solenoid I programmed the ecm per TSB 18-019-01 for cold weather high/3 cylinder.

Well I’m swapping in a NP271D in soon with the Ford fixed yoke on the back, with a matching 1 piece driveshaft with 1480 ujoints (ours use 1410). Those are all ford ideas they run on their trucks. Im not pro Ford I just like some of their ideas. Dodge seems to cheap out on what they call a “heavy duty” pickup. I shouldn’t compare to a 24 year spread it’s just frustrating for me haha.

I’ve considered newer Rams but they have a cad aam front diff which I don’t like. I really like the new f450 but no one makes a Cummins swap kit yet. Just can’t justify $100k + for a new truck. I’ve owned my truck since new so I’m trying to compete with trucks almost 25 years newer. It’s silly but I’m biased

They’re not even in the realm of being equal. I mean i have a Dana 80 and the F450 is using the M300 on the 17+. I’d love to swap in a Dana 110/135 but the lowest ration is 4.30. They also use the Dana Super 60 on the front which has a bigger crown gear then a regular 60. That setup is beef. Frames bigger, brakes bigger, etc. I want to buy a 44’ 3 axle toy hauler but I don’t think a 2nd gen is gonna pull (and stop) nicely. I dream of putting my cab on a f550 frame and running a 24v with a nv5600.

Of course. The factory LSD performs fine (when it works) and they never snapped axles. I like the Truetrac because it’s maintenance free and works like a LSD. It just works with gears, not clutches. You can swap in like a Yukon or other makes true posi but they’re full time so if you have ice/snow conditions it make not unlock and put you in a skid. I know Eaton makes one for the Dana 80, I don’t think they do for the 70 but I’d check on their website first.

The abs tone ring will have to be swapped over. I think there’s some vids on YouTube explaining it. I don’t have one but if I ever did I’m going with that.

Eaton truetrac is a good option. No clutches to wear out or additives to add. Same setup in 3rd gen + AAM rear diffs.