Mace

WT mod should be done in full first. I don’t have much troubleshooting experience with autos as I have the 6 spd but from what I understand a lot of issues are solved when the mod is done. At least you can rule that out.

Well it’s repaired and being mailed back to John tomorrow. Here’s what they emailed me saying what they did. They didn’t come up with a cause. What a nightmare this has been. “Problem Description and Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs): P0606, P0113, P0118, P0121, and P0123 ECM Tests Results and Faults Found: • No Communication to Lift Pump • Lift Pump and APP Circuit in Short • Cold Solder Joints on CPU • No 5v Reference for Sensors • No 9.5v Reference for Lift Pump • Bad Wait to Start Light • P0606 Code Present ECM Repair Completed: • Replaced APP (Accelerator Pedal Position) Circuit. Please keep in mind this Circuit shares a Ground Circuit with additional Sensors and any one of them could be in Short (MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) Sensor, Camshaft Sensor, Water in Fuel Sensor, Engine Coolant Temp Sensor, Intake Air Temp Sensor and Oil Pressure Sensor. Please see the attached diagram.) • Replaced Lift Pump Circuit and Flash Chip • Replaced 5 Volt Driver and 9.5 Volt Driver • Resoldered CPU and 50 Pins • Updated Software • Replaced Wait to Start Light Circuit • Removed P0606 Code (Prior to installing the Rebuilt or Remanufactured ECU, you must replace both Batteries, Terminals, and clean ALL Grounds. Failure to do so will result in the P0600 Code returning and voiding your Warranty.) PCM Tests Results and Faults Found: • Cold solder joints (on CPU, Flash Chip, and Noise Filters) • Faulty Capacitors • Low Volt Reference PCM Repairs Completed: • Replaced Capacitors (220uf 35v Capacitors (x3)) • Resoldered Noise Filters, CPU, and INTEL FLASH CHIP”

Oof 16” tires… Cant run 3rd Gen brakes with those.

That looks like cheap Chinese knockoff crap that break under any kind of stress. Don’t trust your life to $119. I made my own. I used a 07 Power Wagon bar (16mm) and cut it in two and had a machine shop make a threaded turn buckle in the middle for adjustment. Worked great. The bracket I use is from Dodge Off-Road.

I’ve never added any additive to my fuel tank in 24 years. I have used that Cummins approved Diesel Kleen occasionally but never noticed a difference. I think a lot of that stuff is snake oil. The biggest hurdle in diesel fuel is water and as long as you can filter that out your gold. I’ve lived in some harsh, cold climates and never had a freeze/gelling issue either.

I replaced my control arms a couple years ago with Stryker’s as they’re a tad longer for levelled trucks and the bushings are greaseable. You can center your wheel by adjusting the drag link by the pitman arm.

Welcome! Its nice to see 2nd gen’s living on still

Well the girl is starting to come together. My Nations 180 showed up today and I’m going to install it on Monday. I’ll make sure to clean all the mounting surfaces to ensure a decent ground. My ecm & pcm are in @Tractorman care and he’s forwarding it to ACS on Monday as well. I’ve installed my Airdog 100-5G during the week. Quite happy with the install (I’ve deleted the oem filter housing now). I put a 6.7 wif sensor in the water separator and made a jumper harness from the engine harness wif connector so I can retain that. I’ve lost the heater side since I couldn’t find a filter with a heater element in it. One thing I noticed in the airdog harness is it uses the oem lift pump connector for the relay trigger and already comes with a diode suppressing relay. I removed the oem lift pump & plate and am waiting on a Fleece block off plate to cover the hole. During my adventures in wiring down on the engine harness I was leaning on top on the engine and accidentally broke the dipstick handle off. I see they discontinued it and have the “new style” dipstick & tube on order. The old tube came out surprisingly easy. Just a note about my GDP Fuel Boss removal. I ended up breaking the crank side pulley wheel to gain access to the harmonic bolts to remove the adapter. Those set screws are a PITA to get out after many years of exposure to the elements. What a nightmare it will be if you had to replace a crank seal or something all because the set screws don’t want to come out. If anyone is interested in buying my old kit I got a deal for you. You’ll just need a new pulley wheel adapter (I’m sure you can buy one from GDP) and new 3/8” hose.

I completed every aspect of the wt mod as written. That ground is soldered now.

I ordered a Nations 180amp alternator. When I was moving my truck into my works yard the rpm was going crazy and the “check gauges” light came on. I hope other components arent getting killed by this thing.

I used the SMP from Rockauto originally. It was slow or so I thought. My vacuum switch recently died at the same time so I replaced them both and my EB is quicker now. 1-2 second delay turning it on and maybe 2 delay switching it off. Noise is the same I find.

I have the 6spd but I’ll look into Nations. Had a good run of 24 years but I guess it’s just 2nd gen luck! I did the wt mod 2 years ago I never had issues up till then but it seemed like a good idea to just do it.

It’s worse now. The rpm is surging pretty bad, enough that I can’t drive it safely. My current alternator is 5 years old now maybe I should throw a new one on. Any recommendations on that or will a parts house one suffice?

Anything I can do to prevent it from happening again? I read the alternator can cause this?

Maybe some of you gents can help me now? Truck starting getting some bumpy rpms this afternoon. Drove it a bit and now it’s limping along with erratic idle. CEL on now. Codes I have: p0606 p0113 p0118 p0121 p0123 I read an article from here with someone with the same issues/codes and it was an ecm failure. I have the WT mods done, batts are clean & tight. I’m sitting on the side of the road right now so I thought id drop this topic. Any recommend ecm rebuilders?! Thoughts?

I’m glad it worked out. What a difference Ive had to replace my electric pump recently already as mine died. I replaced it with a Dorman one. See how long that lasts…

Here’s another idea: I’m looking at an Air Dog 100 5G for simplicity. I like how their kit uses the ecm lift pump connector for its relay trigger. I suppose I could use a relay with a diode suppressor to protect the ecm. So it’s either a dedicated draw straw or a tank sump to supply fuel to the AD. I see on AD’s website they have a plastic 3/8”connector to 1/2” barb fitting. Could I use the oem 3/8” fuel module supply port to fuel the AD? It would be cleaner, I already have a draw straw in the tank for the Webasto. Edit: Nevermind, their kit does draw from the oem module supply fitting.

I said that too for the first 22 years of ownership, now I’ll never own anything without one.

I really like that Fleece in tank powerflo pump setup. Pricey though

Timbo doesn’t make an apps. He resells a Williams Control one, I made a post about this explaining it as I feel it’s huge scam. He even claims on his website as to what he sells. I listed the part number for everyone as it shouldn’t be a secret. Apps in the engine bay is an outdated idea. They don’t don’t do it anymore. They moved it from the engine to underneath the driver battery on later 3rd gens to now it’s a pedal combination. Where it’s safe from vibration and the elements.

I’m ocd when I make harnesses I can not have splices or unions. John, you can buy Duetsch terminal pliers for crimping the terminals on and avoid splices/unions. Your apps is still in the engine bay so it’s susceptible to moisture and the elements.

I truly believe that the amount of apps sensor failures are because of the vibration they absorb being engine mounted. Ram eventually went to a pedal apps setup in the later 3rd gens. Well done, looks good!

I never noticed that noise. I mean we pretty much drive farm tractors with rocket ship engines. I was just happy if it started in the morning

Thanks! It’s worth its weight in gold. K19, there’s an engine I haven’t seen in a while. I still miss the 444 and the N14. Times have changed.

I’ve had my fuel boss on for years. No issues other then replacing dried out cracked rubber fuel lines over time. I want to delete my oem fuel filter and run a frame mounted setup like GDP’s stand alone filter w/ heater. By using a FS19596 filter I can have a connection for the oem wif sensor. I also want to delete the oem electric lift pump. Has anyone here bypassed the stock lift pump and ran straight mechanical? And if so how did you plumb it? Im thinking 3/8” line from tank to filter, then to mech. pump then to VP44. But I need to regulate the pressure with the bypass valve so should I tee it from the return side up to the vp? The return goes back to tank with that filler neck fitting. Thoughts?