Cowboy

Somehow missed this. Absolutely!

I gave it a paint job yesterday, but more importantly to this thread I painted the inside of the intake white to help reflect heat in the head keeping the intake charge cooler, small gains if any but figured it was worth it. Also painted the inside of the exhaust with 2000* paint, same theory as above, though doubt it will stay clean for long.

Dang it, I was getting a little excited about this. Have it strapped to somewhere on the truck, and watch what's happening from in the cab! My first thoughts were wastegate.

Post #1 is fel-pro vs cummins original. Post #7 is standard design vs improved. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-performance-parts-discussion/393280-head-gaskets.html

A lot, the "standard design" is basically junk. The improved design is right up there with the cummins one.

I know that's what should happen, and I recommend other to do it. But I have no idea where I would even take it, by the time I drove how many miles and paid them, I'm willing to risk it. So far I have $29 into a fel-pro improved design head gasket.

Yep, and I'll hook mine up like that soon. All you gotta do is feed pressure on to the top of the diaphragm.

interesting. I'll have to try it and make a couple before/after runs to see if it helps with power!

A vertical one yes, some people also refer to it as a drill press.

You are correct about the valves and heat. That's why I was surprised to see that Cummins had a maximum spec as well. As for what I did, I got the idea from Will @ PowerDriveDiesel, that's what he did on his junker back in 2013, and he's been running 800hp+ for a while without problems that I know of, and he has an aftermarket cam which likely has a longer duration than stock. Here's the link to his valve job. http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2181807&postcount=1449 As far as chambers, no, I unshrouded the valves some and that's it. Again, I'm not going to pretend like I know what I'm doing, but I believe the course finish is a gasser thing to keep the fuel suspended in the air. On a diesel it's only air so it shouldn't matter in my thinking. About the gasket matching, I don't plan on doing any. The smaller the volume between the exhaust valve and the turbo the better. The exhaust pulses stay stronger and help a lot at low RPM, that's a large reason for divided manifolds/turbine housings. I am going to make sure the exhaust manifold ports are the same size or bigger in every way. I don't want it stepping down into the manifold.

Nothing fancy, just the stock 30* intake, 45* exhaust.

Got some more pics. This is the head as-is, basically finished just needs some small work and a bath. Exhaust. Intake Ground down the big hump in the intake plenum, not sure if the 24V's have the same one? Ground these down some, as the one sticks straight into the flow path coming in the intake horn. Also drilled/tapped the inlet to #1 and #6 cylinders to see if they truly are "starving" for air. I just wanted to mention. These 12V's are picky about the amount of swirl in the intake port. It's well known that hamilton's competition 12 valve head is pretty bad down low, on paper and a flow bench it flows equally or better even at low lift. The main difference is the swirl. At low RPM's there is lower velocity through the port and hence lower swirl which makes it smokier down low.

Who knows, but I'm rooting for ya! I'll know more once I get this head on. But even if you don't plan on porting, I would be really tempted to get rid of the lip on the inside of the valve seat. It takes maybe an hour, should give good results. The burrs cost $10 a piece and you can use a dremel or an air/electric die grinder. You bet! In all that porting, I only nicked one seat and that was in the first 10 minutes and was ever so small it came out with the little lapping I did before grinding the valves.

228k

Don't plan on it as everything is well within spec. Cummins allows for .012" warpage, and it's got .004". Also I recorded the before, so once I get this thing back together we are going to SEE the difference it made.

I blew my head gasket on my 12V'er over a month ago, and have been shaving away at the head since. I'm not going to pretend like I know what I'm doing, I just want to document what I've done. Some of these pictures arn't up to date, I'll update them as I get new ones. Taking pictures of this stuff have proved to be challenging. First things first. Now, here's a look at the factories handy work. Notice the difference between these two cylinders. I can't do any worse than that! Also note the horrendous lip around the inside of the valve seat blocking much needed air flow. Plus there is an excess of material around the valve guide. And a stock exhaust port. In stock form they really arn't that bad, a slight lip around the inside of the valve seat, and the large area around the valve guide. Here you can see the floor of the stock intake runner. And then after some massaging. And then for the actual port work, of which I'm not completely done.. Intake: Exhaust: I also did a number on the valves, including giving them some shine and grinding the seat width back to spec (1.5-2mm) mine were 2.5-3mm.

Dang it man, It's been forever since my head was in this stuff, I wish I could be of more help but here are my thoughts. First, I'm sure this isn't all your code, but I don't see where you actually sent "SentMessage". Also, In the code below, I changed "if (serial)" to "while(serial)" plus added a timeout for it. Just incase you are getting the message, but for some crazy reason it's taking longer than expected. void loop() { time_start1 = millis(); timer++; Serial.flush(); SentMessage = "01 11"; Serial.println("01 11"); delay(500); //while(Serial.available() != '\r'){ int timeout = (5000 + millis()); while ((Serial.available() > 0) && (millis() <= timeout) ){ if (SentMessage=="01 0C") { WorkingString = BuildINString.substring(7,9); A = strtoul(WorkingString.c_str(),NULL,16); WorkingString = BuildINString.substring(10,12); B = strtoul(WorkingString.c_str(),NULL,16); DisplayValue = ((A * 256)+B)/4; lcd.setCursor(5 , 0); lcd.print(DisplayValue); } //else {Serial.flush();} //Throttle position if (SentMessage=="01 11") { A = Serial.read(); //WorkingString = BuildINString.substring(7,9); //A = strtol(WorkingString.c_str(),NULL,0); DisplayValue = A; //DisplayString = String(DisplayValue) + " % "; lcd.setCursor(5, 1); lcd.print(DisplayString); } //} } lcd.setCursor(0,2); lcd.print(timer); time_finished1 = millis(); time_elapsed1 = time_finished1 - time_start1; lcd.setCursor(5,3); lcd.print(time_elapsed1); }

Worst case you could have a second arduino polling the OBD2 port and then have the info rip roaring ready to go for when the main arduino asks for it. 173 ms is forever, it takes me ~ 20ms to read about a dozen sensors and datalog it. And yes, a bunch of wires, connections and things that break are a pain.

Also here's a thread that has a little bit of extra details in it. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-non-powertrain/1569714-steering-gear-how-many-balls.html

With the fuel system designed correctly there are no issues with the stretch from the tank to the pump, with my system the vacuum at the pump hovers around 1-2 in-hg. Even the stock pre-lift pump fuel system which is somewhat horrendous can make it till 400hp. With some modifications to the pump and the rest of the fuel system it can support more than what most people need. Anyhow, the reason I even posted. The guy in that link fudges numbers and implies inaccurate things. It's still a good read though if you know what to look out for.

http://www.dieseltrucksite.com/showthread.php?t=1116 Sometimes just adjusting the gear box fixes the leak. http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1997/19-10-97.htm And this is what I have for fluid requirements. http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2001/19-007-01.htm http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2003/19-005-03.htm

An arduino is just a little simple microcontroller. Turbos on the other hand, them things are black magic. On a scale of 1-10, I did 0, Nick has taken this thing and ran with it which is awesome! Great Job Nick!

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-12v-dodge-cummins/70-steering-and-suspension/502-hotrod-ps-pump

Glad to hear it worked well for you! It does make a substantial difference.

I got that written in the outhouse, followed by "you aim too please". I've been doing some back to back testing with different mods, I'm gonna put 2 stroke oil on the list!