Greenlee

I don't know if I got the pictures out of the way but in my early days living in Semmes AL I knew an older man and he was the original Dodge Man. He worked out in the elements and had trucks every where. I was driving a 1971 D200(?) with a hopped up 360 automatic. He was delighted that I was a welder with a portable rig. I would take his frames that were damaged and cut one side or both depending back to a point that was not damaged. He always came up with a frame for me to use, some were good and some damaged in areas I didn't need so it worked out. If you ever owned an older Dodge the frame was weak at the power steering where it bolted through the frame. I would repair the cracks the cut another frame about 4" to 6" further on each side. Then remove the flanges on top and bottom making an insert that fell right in place on the bolt holes. It basically doubled the strength in that area. On your truck I would get a frame that was good in the front and cut both sides back measuring from the rear. SCRIBE the cut line, and if you are dong this and can't cut on the SCRIBE line so when your done you can still see half of it then get a 6" grinder with a .045 blade ((Metabo) blades are hard to beat) and cut it by hand but on the line. You can raise your truck up using stands and but a wood block under your pan and use another bottle jack to support it. Make sure the welds to be are beveled to get 100% penetration or as much to 100% that you can or a friend that welds can. Grind the inside, top, and bottom to reinforce if necessary. Don't give up on this until you have done everything possible to fix. The other way would to get a complete frame from a yard or junk truck and transfer all your parts to it. I know it's a big job either way but if I'm not mistaken you just got your truck running good and this misfortune happens. At least no one was hurt. My last job in Illinois I was working out of a fab tent cutting lifting lugs for the Air Ducts to be lifted in place. The steel plate was 1.250 to 1.500 inches thick. Some were 3 or 4 feet tall and 5 or 6 feet long. Had to fit inside of beams so it was critical to be precise. I scribed every line cut and would split the scribe line when done. I also made a circle cutter for all the radius edges. We had a huge magnetic drill and hole cutters to cut the holes for the shackle pins to go through. They didn't want to use a torch ( oxygen and acetylene) that would heat the metal up. We had 2 hole on the biggest lifting lug that had to be 2.500 inches. My supervisor asked me if I could cut them with the torch because there was not bits that big and they didn't want to send them out for any delays. So I cut them and used a end grinder with a flapper. They were pretty much perfect, the engineers were impressed that they found a bit so big. All of the lugs I made fit like a glove and not one had to be reworked. All the others that were made had to be reworked, not a single one fit like it should. It's not that I'm special or anything but I was trained by craftsmen who knew how to cut and fit and use a pencil and paper to figure the math. What ever you decide to do is great, just take your time and if you can't see the line you are cutting then stop and reposition, the same goes for the welding. one more thing, if you torch it off and don't feel comfortable with a scribe line then scribe it anyway and cut 3/16" from the line and grind to it. It needs to be this good so you don't throw off the front end. Sorry for being so long winded.

Are you kidding, I don't even walk straight let a lone pour straight, I use a thing called a funnel.

Help me out here, the banjo joint where the fuel line goes to on the VP44 from the filter is not the test port right? I have noticed a separate port with a cap screw head on it, is this the test port? What's changed from using the banjo joint and going with a push lock Tee? I need to put gauges on the 99 or at least the Fuel Pressure Gauge.

I'll look at it some more and even if Eric has a harness I would like to build this. There's a lot of little things that can be done when you learn about them to keep your truck going. I'm learning as I go. The last time I did any serious work on a Dodge was 5 years. This will be good to get something productive done again. Thank you I'll pick one up

I never met your best friend Diesel and am sorry to hear the sad news of his departure. You gave him a great life that he enjoyed with you and family and friends. I believe he is in a better place. We have several pets in our house and love them all. Beautiful dog.

After reading this I think I will call and order a wiring harness for the Raptor. What about the control of the lift pump with the key? How will it pump for 30 seconds? Do you have to use a fuse that is powered up when the key is on? Somebody will get a good deal or I will try and figure out how to modify the clutch and a few other items and keep it. Don't even have a clue where to start on price. New upper and lower ball joints, Fluidampr, new radiator, rebuilt turbo, rebuilt ECM, new ceramic brakes front and rear, new rotors, new power steering pump, new shocks, new center bearing. new alternator, new water pump, and new Raptor all in the last few months. Oh, new TEE and banjo joint for return fuel from the head and no leaks on fuel anywhere. Paint is excellent and so is the interior. I thought I would start at $12,500.00 and go from there. If I get low balled or it doesn't sell I'll keep it and work on the rest, well somebody will be working on it. Thanks for the suggestions I thought about selling the Fluidampr separate and putting a stock harmonic back on. How do you like the Fuel Boss? Any issues to watch for? Unbelievable, I looked through it and if I can follow what's going on it would be great. It sounds complicated but the pictures help bring it into focus. The micro relay? was it factory and plugged into an open slot not being used? Thanks for this article, I really appreciate it. I guess overall it's hard to beat the cost of putting a good 2nd generation together with all the little mods to make it reliable compared to the cost of the newer diesel common rails. I can see now why it's important to get the lift pump off the ECM circuit, everything adds up after while. Thank you. (((The relay of choice is the mini ISO otherwise known as the Bosch type in either 4 or 5 terminal, normally open (NO). Relay terminal 30 is switched power or common in,))) Can this relay be bought at an auto parts store? and what do you mean when you said "common in"?

I mentioned this bit of advice to Eric at Vulcan because it has been an on going ordeal with pressure. I only have a fuel pressure gauge on top of the fuel filter. I told my brother 3 years ago to put gauges on it especially one for fuel. I have a set for the 12v that I never put on it so depending if I keep the 99 or not I'll have to see the new way to put the fuel gauge on since it's not recommended to come off the VP44 port from what I've read. Thanks for explaining this to me. I guess this is the answer when the pressure changes. Maybe it's a different port for the Raptor 150. What are you running on your frame mount?

I couldn't see Wednesday from having my eyes dilated, must have been a double dose, and yesterday I talked with Eric at Vulcan as suggested by several members. I explained the situation and Eric came up with a solution. He's making up a draw straw with the Draw Straw 5 at the top of the Fuel Basket and a Universal set up at the bottom. We went with 3/8" ID to the FRRP 150 located on the engine. Eric got all the connectors and hose in addition to complete the over haul. Early next week it will all be here. Excellent folks to speak with at Vulcan. I really appreciate you all suggesting I call him. I have a Raptor 150 that is set up to go on the frame but no hard ware including brackets, wiring, connectors or instructions to make it work. I didn't ask Eric if he had the parts separate to make this work because simply I can't afford it right now. If I sell the 98 12v and decide to keep the 24v then I will invest in a better fuel system. I don't know if the other new Raptor that mounts on the frame is good or not as far as being reliable compared to other lift pumps. It looks almost exactly like the Raptor on the engine but the mounting holes are different. There is always something to deal with regardless if it's a 12v or a 24v. The transmission if its automatic for either one and the lift pump and VP44 for the 24v. I hate I can't work on the projects I always thought I would to do when retired but that's life. I'm still blessed even if I'm a little slow moving and thinking. I don't feel guilty any more trying to express my thoughts because I can always find the answers I need and advice I need when I can't remember all the details. I will keep you all posted on how this turns out. I wonder if I can get a wiring harness from Eric like JAG1 pointed on Frying the ECM? If not the Raptor on the frame what would you all suggest. Can't go mechanical because my brother put a Fluidampener on the front of the engine. No way to fit a mechanical pump there any more. Have a blessed day.

"Welcome to the Raptor™ FRRP Fuel Pump The Raptor™ FRRP-150 Fuel Pump is a Premium high output replacement lift pump for the Dodge Cummins 24 Valve 5.9L diesel engine. A complete installation kit is included." " MOUNTS IN THE SAME LOCATION AS THE OE TRANSFER PUMP" This is what I saw on Pure Flow in the mounting instructions Factory Replacement Raptor Pump

I missed your post and appreciate your input. There are a lot of ways to solve this. There is a small piece of plastic tubing that connects the return line to the pickup or suction line. One piece looks like a small top with a flip off cap. This is where the check valve is located, a black washer held down by a spring. Thoroughbred Diesel has a video on YouTube on modifying the fuel module both for Pureflow (AirDog) and FASS. This is where I saw the check valve and how to remove it. Apparently it can interfere with the flow of fuel and pressure, it's all second hand information I'm passing on. I had a Raptor 100 that fits on the engine and just before the warranty went out it went out. They replaced it with a Raptor 150 a few months ago but once again the fuel pressure dropped and had to be adjusted back up to 20psi. Before it was put on the banjo joint at the rear of the block for return fuel was replaced and the tee which was split on one of the threads under the cap. All new parts and no leaks at all. In the past 10 days or so we got a PO216 code but I added 2 stroke oil and ran it pretty hard and that code has not come back. When my son gets this bed off I'm going to take a few pictures of the check valve to put in this thread. Thanks for the great ideas. Yes sir on the block where the original factory lift pump was located before putting it in the tank. I've got that blank stare now. I removed the old electric lift pump when I put the first Raptor 100 DDRP and Blue Chip Special X VP44 3 years ago. I agree the lines used on the fuel module are too small. The AirDog Fuel Module Repair Kit adds a new draw straw but like you said it won't support a 1/2" fitting. I don't know if the Raptor 150 DDRP supports one either, I can tell you that the stock fuel line is used. I don't understand what you are saying about EMC frying. Wouldn't you have to extend the 12v line from the block to the frame? Is there another way to wire it in? I honestly don't know if I can physically fab a bracket for the frame. I'm trying to find a solution so I can sell this truck without screwing someone else over like I was. It has a lot of money in it and a pile of new parts. It runs strong when all is good. Give me some options and I'll try to make the right decision on how to fix this issue. I guess with the draw straw you are saying it's the best way to go. I have a brand new Raptor 150 that mounts to the frame but I don't have the brackets, wiring, fittings, or hose to hook it up. I can call Eric as suggested by dripley and he might have everything I need to relocate the lift pump I bet it will drain the tank and it's still better than the factory design. My PC just locked up and I lost a lot I had commented on. More reply's than I thought. I'm trying to read them all. I was looking on AirDog Web Page and my screen froze up it shows the Raptor in a 150 configuration for the 1998.5 to 2003 years. I'm not positive so I'll go look again. I could have sworn it was a 150 DDRP. The part numbers don't seem to explain what it is. I'm going to try this move tomorrow. I thought is was from the tank fuel module according to the video I watched on the module kit. I don't know if I will find another Dodge in this condition inside and out. I wish it was a 4x4 but it's not. Thanks for the advice everyone.

I mentioned this in the prior question. I got a flash light and could see the factory fuel hook up to the Raptor. It's 1/2" to the fuel filter. Let me ask you this, if I remove the check valve in the section side of the fuel module don't you think that it would be fine for suppling fuel to the lift pump? No need to add a new 1/2" pick up tube for fuel supply if the factory pick up tube is minus the check valve. I don't mind spending the $99 for the module and then the costs of 1/2" push lock fittings and a length of fuel line. But for a basically stock truck is it needed? I should have got a flashlight to begin with, sorry to bother you with so many questions. That's what this Raptor is, a DDRP. Didn't know the terminology. So with that said removing the check valve should be good enough?

Hey Dripley, I'm looking at the AirDog fuel module kit that uses a 1/2" pickup tube to a 90* fitting on top of the module cap that is push lock to 1/2" line. I think on the Raptor 150 that attaches to the engine near the fuel filter has a push lock that mates with the factory fuel line coming from the tank. I haven't been able to get under the truck to look. To make this new 1/2" fuel line work would I only have to change out the fitting on the Raptor 150 to a new push lock that is 1/2"??? Your module didn't have a pick up tube modification in the package? Where is the best diesel parts store to get both the module upgrade kit and fittings? I haven't found a store that sells them both. Thanks for the helpl

One more question on the pedal distance, the pedal is on the floor to start and on the floor to put it in gear. Shifting gears on the move is more forgiving but I'm still going past 3/4 of the way down. How far do you have to push the clutch pedal down to put it in gear and the same when shifting? What exactly would I be looking at to see if there is weeping air? Bottle with soap and water? Can I see it standing up or do I need someone to be under the truck looking?

I agree, 3/8 should be plenty for a stock or slightly modified truck. I hate not being able to work on my truck but at least I can get answers here on this Forum. My son is going to pull the bed on the truck so I can get to the module and sit on a bucket. All I need is a welding whip in my hand to be at home.

I can see pushing it all the way down to start but even putting it in gear requires the pedal to be on the floor. My brother had a new throw out bearing put in but the rest is original. 205K showing. I am not physically fit enough to check the pressure plate so maybe I should pass on keeping it. I have a bone spur on my right Achilles Tendon or beside it which flares up periodically. I can't walk at all when it does, Hell getting old when you didn't plan all of this other crap. Not sure about the Hydro's and if they are leaking or weeping air. There is a ton of new parts all over this truck and that's why I was considering taking it back over. Thanks men for the advice.

I appreciate the advice. I'll stick to removing the check valve in the fuel module, didn't want to spend any more than I need to in order to sell it. Again thank you. I saw the module kit from AD for $98.00 with a 1/2" suction line. I wouldn't need to do anything to the check valve if I used this kit.

I'm having fuel pressure issues on the 1999 24v. The pressure drops and you have to readjust the Raptor lift pump to correct it. When I bought this truck the VP44 went out in the first 2 weeks. I removed the electric lift pump from the tank but never removed the check valve that is on the suction line side about 3/4s of the way down the module. I watched a YouTube video explaining that when you eliminate the lift pump in the tank you need to make modifications. The check valve is part of it and should be removed. Has anyone else ran into this or has had fuel pressure dropping and it has to be adjusted back up again? Any opinions on a G&R sump for the bottom of the tank and leaving the fuel module alone? Would I have to change out a fitting on the return side of the Tee to fit a 1/2" hose like the AN-8 fitting on the G&R sump? I can't crawl under the truck and look but I want to be able to pass it on to who ever is helping me work on it. Thank you all for any advice.

Once again I have a odd-ball question to throw out there. My brother was visiting with us on his way back to S.C. and the 1999 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 24v 5 speed I sold him 3 years ago showed the PO216 code so he left it with me to check out and see if I could sell it for him. It's in great shape inside and out. Much better looking than the 1998 12v I occasionally drive to doctor appointments when my wife can't take me. The 12v is automatic and I have decided to sell it. I thought about buying back the 99 but the clutch pedal has to be all the way down on the floor to start it and put in gear. Is this normal distance on most manual driven Dodges? I'm wearing casts on both legs now to help me walk and stand up straight. My ankles don't bend in the casts and I can't push the clutch pedal down far enough without turning my legs inward which makes it awkward. I would hate to have the clutch pedal slip off my shoes because of this. If there was any adjustment to get the pedal up off the floor I might be able to drive it and if not I will sell it like planned. If I sell both I'm going to look for another truck in better shape than what I have now. The question on that is staying with another 12v or going back to another 24v. Maybe going up to a common rail would be something to consider. The question with the clutch pedal is what's important. If that's the normal range of motion than I will stay with an automatic transmission on the next one. Thanks for your opinions

A similar issue has happened to me. The 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 I had sold to my brother is back with me. My brother was passing through to visit after his work finished in FL. When he got here he told me he had a P0216 Code showing. We drove it about 20 miles and it would do fine and then loose power but a downshift would bring it back. He was headed for a Pipeline job as an inspector so he asked me if I could sell it and get my money out of it to pay off the balance owed me. He went down to the GMC dealer and bought a Duramax. A couple of days later I went out and checked the codes and the P0216 was showing up. The tank was 3/4s full so I put a quart of 2-Stroke in the fuel. He had told me when he left Crystal River FL he added 2 cans of Seafoam to the tank. Don't know if this was a mistake or not, some say never use Seafoam in a diesel????????? I have never used it but from what I have read it's mostly oil based. The 99 starts up great and revs fine even when cold. So I took it out and drove the wheels off of it. It moved really good but it poured black smoke out in every gear. When I owned it would haze a little black smoke in 2nd and 3rd at acceleration because of the Blue Chip Special X mechanically advanced VP44. Any way, when I got back the code was gone. So I went back and did the same routine again. Still no code. My brother is not a mechanic so when he heard a noise or thought something needed to be changed it was changed. Still one issue remains and that is the Raptor lift pump. It constantly changes pressure and it is the second one on it during the 45,000 miles it was driven. The Tee from the return fuel line in the head to the tank was replaced because it leaked, no leaks now in the fuel any where. When I bought it and the lift pump failed and the VP44 failed I had to drop the tank to remove the electric motor. I just saw a video where there is a check valve in the suction side of a Tee that needs to be removed to insure no starvation to the Raptor and VP44. I've got some help lined up to remove the bed so I can get to the fuel module. I have considered getting a G&R sump for the bottom of the tank with a supply side and return side to see if this will help maintain constant fuel pressure. My brother has used a lot of different fuel additives which I think could or were damaging to the lubrication of the VP44. It took a long time to convince him to just use 2-Stroke. I don't know if the code is coming back or if this band aid has fixed or helped the VP44 to last a little longer but time will tell. The 99 looks new compared to the 98 I drive now. Steven, I hope you get it figured out.

GSP7, no junk on the front wheels just like you said. Drivers wheel has a tone ring and the passenger side has none. Once I started driving it both ABS and Brake lights turned off. I looked at the tone ring that fell off the passenger wheel and it has cobwebs between the gears. No wires or sensors any where in sight. It's strange how it seems to pulse when I hit the brakes hard but that could be me fighting to hold the brake pedal down. Thanks for setting me straight, one less thing to worry about. Bobalos, mine acts the same way and it might be a characteristic of my trucks braking. I put National Bearing back in the front both sides, well I didn't but a friend did it for me. The can of grease I bought will out live me, hard to believe it only takes a small amount of grease to pack between the rollers and the distance it will go with good maintenance. Didn't think it would turn over this morning on my way to a doctors appointment. It cranked and I later took it to get 2 new batteries since the ones I had were bad. I don't know how but it seems to drive better. Who ever had it before me put 2 smaller batteries (foot print) and a heck of a lot less cranking amps. Appreciate the information

I need some help understanding the ABS/Brake light coming on. Long story short, I thought I was having a bearing or brake or U-Joint issue. I bought new bearings all the way around for each side and had a friend pull the tires and disc brakes off. Apparently the noise was a caliber sticking a little causing the pads to rub the rotor which sounded like the scraping noise when I turned to the right or left. He went ahead and put the new bearing in since we had them. On the left side the inner race was difficult to drive out. It caused the tone ring to fall off. I thought I had ABS brakes because they pulsed when I hit the brakes hard. Only problem is there are no wires or sensors to indicate what I was thinking. The tone ring was left off and now after starting my truck the dash lights stay on. I looked in the manual but couldn't figure out how it all went together. Do I need to pull the left side off and tap the tone ring back in place to get the lights to go off??????????????? Can't figure why my brakes pulsed like ABS if I don't have the system on my 98 12 valve. Thanks

Thanks Green, I have been trying to figure this out for several days, Your information is right on the money. I just got off the phone with Advanced Auto Parts and they said I have replacement bearings since mine is a 2wd. I'm going with the store brand on bearings since everything else has to be ordered and I'm looking at a 20 year old truck that looks decent on the interior with the exception of the dash core being broke out in several places. I don't drive more than 6,000 to 8,000 miles a year anyway. I can at least tackle this job with a little help and get it back up and going. I have new injectors, DVs, 4K springs, AFC kit from Power Driven Diesel, and a full set of gauges that have been sitting around for a couple of years now that I had planned to install. The wheel bearings will be a walk in the park compared to everything else. This will be a good fix that isn't too complicated for an old man to take care of. Just wanted to say that wheel bearing will go a long ways as long as you keep them repacked before you start to hear them, don't know how many miles you should repack them but I will say that on my Dad's car it wasn't the front wheel bearing but the rear drivers side bearing in the axle that went first. No telling how long the front ones made it to just like your vehicles, that's a pile of miles but apparently you do good maintenance on what you drive.

I'm looking for information on changing the front wheel bearing on my 1998 12v 2500 2wd and saw this post. I'd like to ask you all a few questions, for one, can you replace the bearings only or is it recommended to replace the wheel bearings and hub assembly as a unit? I have noticed sealed bearings on some pictures and tapered or cone bearings on other pictures I have looked at. I want to get the low down before I try and get it all apart. Difficulty getting up and down I am hoping I can save some money and do this myself. The last time I changed out wheel bearing or repacked wheel bearing was 35 years ago and once you learned not to fill the hub void with grease (after you think you packed the bearings) for a little extra protection and the neighbor walks over and has a good laugh telling you that it's not the first time he has seen someone pack bearings like that. Of course it all has to come back out and redone the right way. I couldn't believe that front wheel bearing could be sealed bearings. My Dad drove a 1975 Cadillac and the wheel bearing were packed every oil change (USMC and done on base), seems over board but the first failure was at 350,000 miles it makes me realize they don't make like that anymore. So without rambling on more can someone please help me with this? Thanks

Yes, except the last 3 minutes. After dinner I plan on going through it again. It is a great video. I sent to my brother to look at

Ok, This is like building custom tunes similar to EFI Live? You really have to know every little piece of the puzzle and what it does and when it does to make it all come together? Most will select a tune already available and if it does what they want then it's great and if not keep pressing options until you get a selection that you like. Is this close to what your are saying? My brother has an IT background with electronics so this might be a walk in the park for him and if it's not then he will do the button pushing. Bottom line, the Quad+Adrenaline+V2 is a great choice considering todays market and the flood of tuners out there that work with 1998-1/2 and newer Dodge Ram Cummins. Thanks for explaining what you are talking about, I might have to return to a 24valve with all the options in this small package. Forgot to ask you about the gauges used, does the fuel pressure work off a sending unit?