Ironforger

Hello, I just purchased an 05 3500 auto Quad cab long bed. It has 228,000 miles on it and has been meticulously maintained since day one. One question I have is, should I be concerned if there is a little white smoke at idle or low rpms? It starts right up when cold, and no engine blow-by. The truck runs very well. The maint records mention all 6 injectors were replaced at 170,000 miles. Unfortunately no further details on injectors such as brand , reman or new. You know how it is. I'd prefer to know the aforementioned info but it is what it is. I don't have that luxury. Besides starting up easy when cold, are there any other indicators of injector health? If the only real way is to pull them and send out for testing, I will replace them with new set. If do replace them, looking for recommendations for exactly which ones are best and sourced/supported in the USA . Thanks!

Cool info @Mopar1973Man What are your average "super high" MPG's with this setup?

Thanks. I'll plan this. When replacing the injectors, is it also necessary to replace the connector tubes? Or if not, should I at least replace the connector tube O-rings?

Ok great, thanks. My truck is exempt from inspection in NJ, but I was just curious regardless. From NJ "All Diesel-fueled motor vehicles with a gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) 8,501 pounds to 17,999 that are plated commercial. The owner or lessee is required to inspected these vehicles. "

Does the Quadzilla Adrenaline plug into the OBD II port? Just curious. I'm going to get it eventually,

In follow up to my OP: The reason I could not get above 24psi after installing the boost elbow is because adding the boost elbow was all I did. Boost fooler is also needed to fool the ecm into thinking boost psi is not exceeded factory specs, therefore allowing fueling. I subsequently installed the quadzilla boost fooler, now I can easily hit 30psi no problem. (fwiw, im at 252k miles running original factory injectors & HX35W turbo). Boost fooler install was easy plug and play, nice noticeble performance gain with low egt's. I purchased my quadzilla boost fooler from DAP: $67 plus shipping. Fast no-nonsense shipping. https://www.dieselautopower.com/quadzilla-power-2002-dodge-5-9l-cummins-boost-fooler So that's all I've done so far regarding performance mods. Next on my list is the Quadzilla Adrenaline with IQUAD & larger injectors. Hopefully soon

Clogged vent hose. Same thing happened to me. Click my post below, scroll down to the last post on the bottom of page 2 to see picture of my clogged vent hose. Clogged with mud-wasp insect junk.

02 3500 6 speed HO. 252k miles. Still has factory injectors & HX35W turbo, etc. No tuning mods (Yet. Maybe quadzilla and DAP 100hp 7X0.009 VCO injectors in the near future) Anyhow, my questions is this: I added a boost elbow recently. How much boost gain can I expect by adding a boost elbow? I was getting 22 psi before installing boost elbow. After installing went up to about 24 psi max. Is that to be expected? Or is there a possibility my waste gate is not fully closing? Figured I'd get some feedback from you guys before I start taking things apart. What comes first, chicken or egg? Does the fueling increase relative to boost increase? Or does the boost increase relative to fueling increase? Is a tuning mod such as quadzilla needed to increase fueling to get more boost? Thanks

Thanks Hutch24v. Although issue was definitely a failing MAP sensor, truck did not have any codes. Thanks for putting me in the right direction regarding that MAP sensor.

My first Cummins truck was a first gen 1990 WR250. At one point it became hard to start, long cranking times. It would start eventually, but had to crank the hell out of it. Diagnosis: Pinhole in the fuel line. The pinhole was along the frame near the fuel tank. Seriously, it was a tiny freaking pin hole and it was very difficult to find, barely visible to the naked eye. I finally found it after inspecting the fuel line at night with a bright led flashlight. I noticed small wetspot on a rusty area of the fuel line. Bingo. I replaced that fuel line and truck was back to normal & starting immediately. The slightest amount of air in your fuel system will mess you up. I melted down that old rusty fuel line in my coal forge and made it into a paperweight.

FYIW, I know you mentioned a new pilot bearing was installed in the new flywheel. What was the condition of the old pilot bearing? What was the condition of the tip of the input shaft? I'm wondering about the possibility of the new pilot bearing failing, esp since you mentioned it worked okay for a little while after you put it back together. When you put it together, did the trans slide in easy for that last 5/8 of an inch? Or did you have to pull it in with bolts? Also, before putting it together, did you slide that new pilot bearing on the tip of the input shaft to see if it went it tight or easy with no binding? If it went in too tight, risk you may have damaged the new pilot bearing, hence that input shaft turning while trying to put it in gear. Unfortunately most clutch kits come with a pilot bearing that fits too damn tight on the input shaft. You should not need to force it. Bronze (oil impregnated) pilot bushings if set up correctly should slide on easy and are much more robust as long as you don't keep that clutch in for long times while stopped at traffic lights etc. Put her in neutral etc. I'm saying this because when my pilot needle bearing failed, I had the same symptoms you described in your original post. It scored up my input shaft and the trans was not comming to a full stop when I put the clutch in. Fast forward. When my pilot bearing failed, I did the right thing & installed new clutch , cut the flywheel AND installed a new BRONZE pilot bushing. I cleaned up my input shaft and that bronze bushing fit perfectly sliding on the input shaft with no slop or binding. Trans went in the truck like a dream, Did not need to use bolts to push in that last 5/8". Trans slid right into place by hand.

UPDATE: Issue was due to a bad MAP sensor. Issue is fixed. Truck runs great now as it should. I replaced the MAP sensor with a genuine cummins part from Genos. (Had to also buy the harness adaptor from Genos for the 02 cummins). Looks like I got the last one Geno's had in stock. Now it's backordered 6 weeks. Again, I don't know if I described the issue very well. It was not a direct engine miss. Truck started up fine. Idled fine. Intermittently while driving down the road, it would loose power, but not stall. While this was happening, If I stepped on the accelerator pedal, it just kind of did nothing. Wasn't fueling, wasn't boosting, just kind of felt flat like limp mode or dead pedal. Then, intermittently I would get bursts of fuel and boost, other times after a minute or 2 it would run fine. It was doing this crazy ongoing intermittently. I ruled out the APPS by turning on the cruise control while the issue was happening. Issue still occurred while in cruise control. I read on the cumminsforum that the cruise control does NOT use the APPS, therefore if issue still happening while on crusie control, then the APPS is ok. My W-T ground mod is solid. I was very thorough and detailed when I did it. \ I hope this thread helps others who experience this mystery intermittent issue. I smashed the faulty old MAP sensor with a sledgehammer, then I melted it down into a paperweight in my coal forge.

Thanks for your reply and questions. I'm not sure if I explained it well. I don't know if it is a dead pedal or limp mode or what. I only know it's happening and it's intermittent. I posted a you tube vid link below. Took this while the issue was happening. The truck currently has 250,000 miles. Yes I did the W-T ground mod and B+ 150amp circuit breaker in 2020 @ 232,000 miles. As far as the known history, I've owned the truck since 2013. It had 213,000 miles on it when I bought it. I do not know much about the previous history or maintenance. I don't know if the VP44 is original or not. I have not done anything to the pump. I've done alot of the basic cummins maintenance and repairs, but have not done any performance mods except for a fuel boss mech fuel pump and Southbend Stage 2 clutch. I always use Tc3w 2 stroke and have been since I bought it. Other maintenance and service i've done: 2013: @ 213,000 miles: Fuel boss mech fuel pump and big fuel line kit. All new fuel hoses. New front main seal. Killed the puke bottle, re-routed crankcase vent, inspected timing gears, killed the killer dowel pin, 2015: @ 217,000 miles: New high flow steering pump, rebuilt the vacuum pump, 2018: @ 226,000 miles New timbo APPS, BHAF, all new brake lines & brake hoses 2019: @ 230,000 miles, southbend stage 2 clutch, bronze pilot bushing, rear main seal, 4" stainless exhaust 2020: @ 232,000 miles: W/T ground mod and B+ 150amp circuit breaker, Water pump, idler pulley, serp belt & cam position sensor (FWIW: the cam sensor wasn't bad, I just replaced it pro-actively) 2020 @ 237,000 miles, removed 4.10 gears, installed 3.54 gears Not much else beyond brake jobs and oil changes etc. As you can see no real performance mods but In the near future I plan to jazz it up a bit. Nothing crazy. Keeping the factory turbo but getting the Quadzilla, Slightly bigger injectors (50hp?) and an exhaust brake. Need to get this current issue sorted out before any mods happen. Here is a You tube video I took while driving. If you listen closely you can hear the engine and the issue I'm describing:

Hey Fellas, 02 cummins 3500 dually 6 speed Intermittent dead pedal. Sometimes while driving it sputters bit or it doesn't accelerate, does not stall out, it's just kind of runs flat and pedal does not respond as it should. Intermittent. No rhyme or reason. Some days it's fine, other days seems like it only happens for the first 15 minutes after starting when the truck is cold. It kind of feels like when my APPS failed a few years ago. Could my issue be as simple as resetting the APPS? Have not tried that yet. More info: Current mileage: 250,000 Installed new timbo APPS 2018 @ 226,000 miles I checked for codes, got none. Only shows P - Pcu, P Done, P- ECU, P Done. Tried a ODBII scan tool, no codes. I have a fuel boss mechanical fuel pump (installed 2013 / 213,000 miles and fuel gauge so my fuel pressure is definitely good. Always using TC3w 2 stroke as well. Thoughts and opinions welcome. Thanks!

Thanks for clarifying Loren! From what I understand, a manual trans determines if the truck got the dana 80: 3500 = Dana 80 2500 Auto = Dana 70 2500 Stick = Dana 80 If anyone needs a good used Dana 80 carrier for a 4:10 gear set, PM me. Including the gears for free, but would not recommend using them as I was told they are worn out.