Ironforger

Ok I'm back in NJ. Completed 2000 mile round trip to Florida. So I had a chance to cut open that clogged axle vent tube. It was full of mud wasp nest. About 1 foot of it, from the open end. I have no idea how long it was like this. I never checked it before. I'm guessing years. Check your axle vent tube guys! So Ironically my wheel seals were not leaking while the axle housing was under pressure but now my drivers side axle seal IS leaking! WTF? Ok so as I mentioned on may 27th I discovered the clogged vent shortly after I departed on my trip. There was NO sign of axle seal leaking. I checked it again 1000 miles later when I arrived if Florida. NO leaking. Ok so I arrive home in NJ another 1000 miles later and the drivers side axle is leaking!! Ok so I'll replace the seals. I need to do a rear brake job / new rotors anyway. Just ironic that I get a leaky seal after clearing the axle vent tube. I replaced them 23,000 miles ago when I first got the truck. Could it be from long distance driving as @Towrigdually mentioned? I stopped overnight on my drives, so I was driving about 10 hours straight each day. On another note, I greased my U-joints when I arrived in Florida. Got some water out of the center one again. We did have torrential rain in Florida when I arrived and yea that joint is exposed directly to rain since it sits below the cab and bed opening. Checked it again when I got back to NJ, no water this time! However the joint seemed a tiny bit loose to me. Possibly worn due to water exposure. I may replace it. Once I do I'll fabricate a metal rain shield above it.

@dripley , I'm running 235 / 85 R16's. Factory size for the 02 3500 from what I understand?

@dripley , great info. How much lube are you running in your trans? Did you overfill it? I have my trans overfilled to the top bolt hole on the pto cover. While towing in 5th, my trans temps were consistent average at 200*. If I put it in 6th, the temps started creeping. Went as high as 219* at one point after about 20 min driving. Drop it back down to 5th and it would slowly cool back down to 200*. I had some higher EGT's on some of the longer uphill grades along i-81 and i-77 in Virginia. Hit 1290* at one point. Great info @Mopar1973Man . Is this the Moble SAE 50 trans fluid you are running? https://www.mobil.com/en-US/Commercial-Vehicle-Lube/pds/GL-XX-Mobil-Delvac-1-Transmission-Fluid-50

@Towrigdually , do the fast coolers help? What trans temps average do you see while towing in 5th at highway speeds? Were you able to compare trans temps before and after installing the fast coolers?

Thanks @Mopar1973Man What are the average trans temps you typically see? I just arrived in Florida yesterday, my first of many trips to Florida this spring and summer. Towing my 20 ft haulmark enclosed trailer, loaded to the max. I got my rig weighed at a truck stop, about 18,500 lbs truck and trailer total. Made it safe, only issue I had was a clogged axle vent tube. Discovered it quite by accident. Soon after I embarked on my trip, I noticed the axle LSD clutches chattering on tight turns. Figured I needed another tube of LSD additive so I stopped and got some at an autoparts store. Went to put it in right there in the parking lot. When I went to take off the filler plug air hissed out. The differential housing was under pressure, i'm guessing 3 to 5 psi. Who knows how long it was like that. Never thought to check the vent tube. It's a miracle my axle seals didn't blow out. So I took off the vent nipple and hose. hose was totally clogged. (I'll cut that old hose open and post pictures when I get a chance). Anyway I got some new 5/16 fuel hose and put it on right there. Otherwise trip was ok. I feel like I couldn't tow in 6th gear because the trans temps would begin rise as soon as I put it into 6th. Ran consistently cooler in 5th gear. So I did most of the trip in 5th which wasn't particularly fun since I couldn't go much over 60 mph with my 4:10 axle gears. I seriously want to switch to 3.54's so I can tow in 5th gear at highway speeds without heating up the trans.

Sounds " cool!" Has a write up been done for this mod? What is actually happening when you flip that switch on? Does it energize the clutch magnet and keep it on constantly 100% no cycling on or off? Thanks!

Thanks @Dieselfuture . That's good to know. I guess I don't need to worry then, since I'm not going much above 1100f so far in most situations. Prolly because of my 4.10 axle ratio. Taking a highway trip soon, so I'll put that to the test! Were you in 6th gear while while driving 65mph? Loving your low RPMS! Do you tow much with that truck? Do you tow in 6th gear? Edit: forgot to ask, what is that AC toggle switch for? Sometimes in my truck I notice the AC compressor coming on while it's set in vent mode, just wanting some fresh air on a cool day without AC. Is that why? I can't figure out why it's coming on when it's no specifically on the AC setting. Thanks!

Hey Guys, Forgot to ask about EGT's. I recently installed boot/egt & fuel/trans temp gauges. How high can I go on the EGT's? At what point do I back off the throttle? Just wonderin what the good operating range is. About where do you like to see the EGT's while cruising at highway speeds? Thanks!

@dripley That's amazing! Especially considering you have the quad cab. When I replaced all of my Ujoints in 2016, it was that same Ujoint that went bad, the one that sits right under the opening between the cab and pickup body. The inside of the Ujoint was bone dry and rusted. (I decided to replace all of them and the center bearing while I had the shaft out). Are there grease/zerk fittings on your factory Ujoints? My original Ujoints did not have zerks, but my replacement Spicer/dana Ujoints do. They are the small flat zerks that require a needle tip nozzle grease gun adapter, which I like, easy to use.

Thanks @Towrigdually , I've got jugs of oil, coolant and drinking water all ready to go! Thanks @Cronus577 , I didnt think of the valves, not sure if Ill have time to do it but I'll try. Good idea regarding the diff fluid. I checked it yesterday and it's looking dirty, thinking it's been in there for 15k and I've been getting some chattering around tight corners lately, so yea time for diff fluid change and LSD (like wow man) additive. Gonna change it today! Thanks @dripley , I just changed the fuel filter, and I have a spare 'ill throw in the the truck. & I just ordered a new non-AC serp belt as @Dieselfuture suggested. Forgot to mention, I greased my U-joints last night. There was some water that came out of the middle U-joint, it's the one that sits right below the opening between the cab and body (are they like this for all trucks? Or just the quad-cab?) It's directly exposed to all rain coming down that gap between the cab and body, and we have had a ridiculous amount of rain this spring. Hoping it's ok, I pumped the grease gently pushed out all of the water until clean grease came out all cups. I last greased it about 8 months ago, I don't remember getting water out of it at that time but we've had an absurd amount of rain over the past 8 weeks. Fairly low miles overall on these joints, about 20k. I always carry my grease gun on the truck, maybe I'll push some clean grease through it again after a few hundred miles. When I get a chance I think I'm going to fab up an aluminum rain sheild & mount it above the ujoint somehow.

Good one @Dieselfuture , not a bad idea to keep a spare non-AC belt with me. I'll be hittin the AC for all it's worth while in Florida, so if it fails, good to have an alternative. @IBMobile , good point, it happens. Honestly a bit nervous about my VP44, I don't know the history of it. Works fine, no codes or symptoms but I have no idea if it's the original pump or not. The yellow tamper tape is torn on the elec connector, that's the only questionable clue. Otherwise it' is indeed the correct pump for the HO w/6speed. I did the right thing when I got the truck, one of the first mods I did was fuel boss mech pump. Been running 2stroke oil since I got it as well.

Good point @Bullet I just put a new belt on, and I threw the old one in the glove box for murphy's law safe keeping! (Old one looks fine anyway)

02 3500 nv5600 2wd quad cab. 233k. I've been as diligent as possible regarding preventative maintenance, but you know how it is, entropy is a ***** and things go wrong. Now getting ready to put down some serious miles - long distance cross country driving soon, multiple times this spring and summer from NJ to Florida towing a haulmark 20ft car trailer (approx 7,000 gvwr). Here is a list of the repairs i've done, as well as some pro-active maint in anticipation of major highway miles. Is there anything else I should do? Thinking I've got the major failure items covered.. Is there anything else that's know to fail on these 2nd gen 24 valve trucks? Opinions or suggestions appreciated. Thanks! List of recent maint and repairs (in descending order of failure , most recent first - May 2020: 233k Fuel filter, Water pump, idler pulley, serp belt & cam position sensor (FWIW: the cam sensor wasn't bad, I just replaced it pro-actively) - April 2020: 232k Alternator (Also did the W-T ground mod and B+ 150amp circuit breaker ), front brakes - July 2019: pilot bearing, (bronze oilite) rear main seal, trans input and output seals, trans mount, manual trans filter kit and syncromesh lube (overfilled), clutch kit (southbend stage 2), & 4" stainless exhaust - Mar 2019: 229k 4 new rear tires, Front shocks (SACHS 310178, love em! I tried bilstiens up front but they were WAAYYYYY too stiff.) - Dec 2018: 228k: ALL brake lines, brake hoses and brake fluid. - Aug 2018: 227k BHAF (baldwin PA2820) - July 2018: 226k: timbo APPS - Jan 2017: 219k Driver side ball joints, upper and lower, 2 new front tires, differential oil - Dec 2016: New front wheel bearings (and axle nuts) - Jan 2016 ALL U joints and center bearing (dana/spicer) - Nov 2015: Harmonic balancer - Oct 2015: New high flow power steering pump, rebuild vacuum pump, rear shocks (bilstien B46-1908) - Nov 2014 all radiator and heater hoses - Oct 2014: Front suspension components, tie rod ends, idler, pitman, drag link, - Oct - Nov 2013: Fuel boss mechanical fuel pump and big line kit, fuel filter, front main seal, thermostat - Aug 2013 213k rear wheel bearings (all) and seals,, differential oil, calipers (all) new rear rotors, e-brake shoes, puke bottle delete, cleaned radiator, killed the killer dowel pin, manual trans filter kit and syncromesh lube (overfilled) - April 2013 bought truck. 213k.

lol you guys are making me nervous, I have no idea if the vp44 pump in my truck is original or not. Maybe I can call the dealer and have them check by vin# to see if it's been replaced under warranty. At least I'm running 2stroke since the day I bought it in 2013. IIRC it had 213k when I bought it. Now has 230k.

Wow, and how long did that one last?

@dripley How many miles did you get out of your original factory VP44?

Good one! I guess it's not a coincidence then. @dripley how many miles were on your truck when this happend? I'll be checking this more often, like every oil change. I'll see if I can scribe a mark on the mount bracket for future reference to observe if the alternator body is moving position. Good bet there are other trucks out there with this issue without knowing it. Might be worth pulling the bolt to inspect & replace if worn.

I'm replacing this alternator and the mounting bolt. Who knows how many miles it has on it anyway. Could be 230k if it's the factory unit. Getting ready to haul a car trailer next month, can't take chances. Looks like it's been bouncing around for a while, the bolt is worn quite a bit:

Awesome, Thanks!

Damn was getting ready to do the WT ground mod and noticed the upper mount tab is broken on my Alternator. It's a bosch. Are the bosch and denso alternators interchangeable? I've been shopping around for a replacement but seems to be some confusion about the correct alternator, depending on the eighth digit of the vin. ( in my case it's "C") Advance auto has the actual bosch alternator (based on the alternator part#) but the listing says it's for trucks with a vin: 7 https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bosch-premium-100-remanufactured-alternator-al6400x/20851271-P?navigationPath=L1*14920|L2*14999|L3*15587 Rock auto has an alternator for vin: C, the listing says its a bosch, but the pictures are denso. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5778228&jsn=3 Rock auto also has an alternator for vin: 7 and the pictures of it are bosch: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=273175&cc=1441320&jsn=2096&jsn=2096 I called a dodge dealer, they said item is discontinued but at least gave me the part# 5104772AA BUT a google search of that number brings up a denso alternator. A search of the actual part number on my alternator brings up a bosch: 0124525005 Which one should I use? Why is it everyone says my truck vin: "C" should be denso, but my truck has a bosch? Ok so there is a chrysler emblem on my bosch alternator, but who's to guess if it's the original factory alternator. Sure is old and beat up looking regardless. While I was in there I noticed the large positive cable that connects to the alternator (B+)? was rubbing against the top of the alternator body, wire insulation partially worn through. Glad I caught that before shorting out. Pictures:

Good to know, thanks for the info.

@Mopar1973Man Thanks your help is appreciated. I don't have $1000+ to drop on the Quadzilla Adrenaline and the 7X0.010's. I'll move forward with this once I have the play money to throw at this truck. Yea I know my injectors have high mileage , wish I could do this now. Good to at least know that the quad adren & 7x0.010's are the next step. At least I know my mechanical fuel boss pump and stage 2 clutch will be able to handle these mods when I'm ready to roll.

Ok good info, Thanks!

Thanks. A member recommend the Quadzilla XZT as well I'll keep these items on my wishlist for now!

I don't understand what that means. Thanks. I understand this. I'm considering the 7 x .010's , I like what @Me78569 described about them "more cc worth of fuel per time duration" @Mopar1973Man : What tune or tuner would you recommend if I get the 7 x .010's ? I'd like to keep the factory turbo for now. Thanks