Ironforger

Thanks for the advice. I cleaned it up a bit with WD-40, but did not spray the compressor wheel directly. Is brake cleaner safe for the turbo shaft oil seal? If so I'll go right to town and spay / clean it. Thanks!

02 3500 2wd 6speed quad cab. 225k, Recently noticed noticed the vacuum sensor on the airbox tripped. Upon inspection found that the air filter was full of rodent nest and the filter was partially sucked into the intake tube. Good bet some debris got sucked into my turbo and the turbo intake housing is dirty/grimy. Lucky I don't see any damage on the compressor blades and it spins freely thankfully. So ripped out the factory airbox and put in a RBHAF. Went with the baldwin 2820 since it seems a bit better constructed with an internal wire cage. Loving the sound. I can clearly hear the turbo spool up now. Wondering if this will improve my fuel mileage. It was getting 13 mpg before I installed the rbhaf. Truck has a rather large service body which is not at all aerodynamic which doesn't do well for fuel economy. Like driving into the wind with a flat 4x8 sheet of plywood. I'm planning to fabricate a nice aerodynamic wing to reduce drag. We'll see if that improves the fuel mpg.

Glad the USFS prepped your yard and home with sprinklers. Hope can get some much deserved rest.

Hang it there! You must be tired. Hope you can find time to rest.

How are things looking this morning? Has the fire moved away from your home?

Scary man! I hope your house is untouched by this fire. What kind of resources do you have to protect the house? Got that 4000 gal water tender? Did you mention you have a damn filled with water and sprinklers going? To wet down the local brush/grasses/fuels? Hang in there!

Is there an official name for this fire? Trying to follow it on the news. Is it the rattlesnake creek fire listed here? http://www.idahofireinfo.com/

Safety to you, your family and neighbors. Hope everyone gets through this without any injuries or loss of property. How far is the fire from your home now?

I'm running stock tires 235/85 R16. I'd like to lower my revs. Not looking to get rev's up. Where can I find the gearing calculator? Thanks!

02 3500 dually 6sp NV5600 Rear wheel drive 3.55 ratio dana 80 Are you or do you know of anyone running 3.31 ratio gears in a dana 80? I'm currently running 3.55's and would like to switch to 3.31's so I can run lower rpm's in 5th (1:1) gear while towing. If you have done this I would like to hear about what you think & how your truck is performing while running 3.31's. Thanks!

Dieselfuture: Honestly I'm not sure how many quarts total because I don't know how much lube I lost when the first seal popped out. Once I put the new seal in I just re-filled it through the top center PTO bolt hole until it started dripping out. I have one filter kit from quad 4x installed on the passenger side pto cover. klcammie: I got the pennzoil synchromesh from pep boys and advance auto parts. See also my response to dieselfuture above.

Follow up. Looking like it's not possible to remove the extention housing without first removing the NV5600 from the truck. I replaced the output shaft seal with an OEM part and did not replace the output bushing. So far so good, not leaking. I overfilled the trans with pennzoil synchromesh (filled through top hole on the pto cover until dripping out).

Ok, so based on IBMobile's advice, looking like I have very slight play when attempting to push up and down on the front yoke while truck is in neutral. I looked into this a bit further, I'm not sure if I can remove and replace the nv5600 extension housing without first removing the trans from the truck. It's looking to me like there are a lot of components and alignment pins related to reverse gear and countershaft which must line up with bore holes in the extension housing on re-assembly - potentially difficult or impossible to do while the trans is in horizontal position? The nv5600 service manual (avail here on mopar1973man downloads) indicates this transmission is serviced while standing it up vertically. Has anyone removed the extension housing / replaced the output bushing while the trans remains in the truck? If it's impossible, then I will just put an oem seal back in & deal with any minor leak until it's time for a clutch and just remove the trans and do everything at that time. Thanks

Yes, the bushing and tool are the same for the NV4500 and NV5600. Thanks for offering. PM Sent!

Ok, so I feel like I got burned by a cheap made in tiwan SKF output seal. Synopsis of my issue: 02 4x2 quad cab nv 5600 217,000k Tranny output seal started leaking and I had one bad u joint. All original equipment so I guess it's no surprise. So I figured I'll just do everything, new output shaft seal, all new u-joints and center bearing, change the trans lube & install trans Quad 4x4 filter kit as well as a 1/8" weld bung on the drivers side pto cover for a temp probe. Did all of the above, took for a 3 mile test drive & the output seal failed - popped out. Luckily didn't drive to far so I didn't lose all of the trans lube. Still quite a mess though. So I started thinking, where did I go wrong? The old seal was a major pita to get out, but the new one seemed to go in easy. Maybe too easy. The new seal was skf, old one was OEM. Never had an issue with SKF before. I always thought they were top of the line. After the fail I looked at the skf box - made in taiwan. I got it from rockauto. I usually try to avoid cheap parts but I Never gave this one a second thought assuming skf stuff is good. In hindsight the skf is slightly different from oem - should have red flagged it there. Ok, so I'm not going to waste any more time. I'm getting an oem seal but I'm wondering if I should take the extra step & replace the nv5600 rear output bushing? Cant help wondering if a worn bushing could contribute to the previous seal fail. Any suggestions or advice on changing out the output bushing? What are the symptoms of a worn bushing? Leaky seal? I don't have any vibration happening etc. I know that the trans rear output housing must be removed to R&R the bushing, figure I could support the trans with a jack, I don't' see a need to remove the trans do do this. Thanks

I like to save money when I can but I'm about done with NAPA. Way too many failures with their parts. That A-1 cardone stuff is crap. Too many issues to list. Over the past few years I've had numerous problems with NAPA parts - literally problems averaging 50% of everything I've purchased from them.

Makes sense. Good explanation. I'll plan on changing out the right front wheel bearing. Once I have the old bearing out, I'll slice it in half / cut it open to reveal the internal condition. I'll post pictures of it here. Trying to get all the important service done before winter sets in. Costs are adding up! Last week I installed a new borgeson high pressure power steering pump & rebuilt the vacuum pump. So now i have to do this wheel bearing & it also needs a new harmonic balancer, u joints/center bearing & trans output seal

Thanks Glad you like my work. I'm just beginning to dedicate more time to it. I'm not familiar with the fluid dampeners. Is the difference significant? Less vibration? I'm tempted to look into it - maybe I'll check with the folks at Fuel Boss to see if they have any exp with anyone running a fluid dampener with the Fuel Boss mechanical pump setup. Is there any specific brand of fluid dampener you guys recommend? Where to buy? Thanks!

Hey guys, While the engine is running, noticed the H-balancer has a slight wobble. Feels tight if i tap on it, but looking like some rubber pieces may have broken off. Otherwise runs smooth. no noticeble vibration beyond the normal diesel cummins clatter we all know and love! Are these known to fail?

Thanks for the replies. Brakes are good - recent new pads & calipers about 8 months ago & inspected last week. Sound does not change in relation to braking. Dust shields are fine. Maybe I'm not so good at describing the sound - it's not the type of metal scraping sound you might hear if brake pads are gone such as metal on metal rotors or scraping dust shield. - it's more of a hum - the tone of which changes in relation to speed. Accompanied by a slight vibration. The sound disappears below 30 mph. I'm leaning towards bearings being the culprit. Any tips on changing out? I understand it's a hub/bearing assembly. 2 wheel drive independent suspension. thanks!

02 3500 QC6 speed RWD 215k Independent front suspension. When driving straight or turning left, there is some kind of low mechanical grinding sound coming from the right side of my truck. With it is a slight vibration. Hard to tell if it's from the front or rear of truck. The sound disappears when making right turns. The tone changes with speed increase or decrease, and its most noticeable between 40mph and 60mph so it's definitely something rotational. No difference if truck is in gear or coasting in neutral. Issue has been gradually getting worse over the past few months. I suspect front right wheel bearing but would like to hear some opinions here. Front wheel bearings are all original equipment. Rear wheel bearings are new 2 years ago (approx 6000 miles) - top of the line timkens Steering tie rods and idler arms all new. Balljoints all original equipment - one is slightly worn. All ball joints to be replaced in near future. Brakes are good - recent new pads, calipers etc. I jacked up front of truck - inspected wheels - no noticeable play and wheels spin freely by hand no noticeable noise (sans slight brake pad drag) Thanks

Well after installing the new rear shocks, the issue is not as pronounced but it's still there. - I'm guessing it's not as bad now since the suspension is properly dampened it's not traveling down as much on bumps. You mentioned check carrier for play. Are you referring to the differential/ring gear carrier assy? or the drive shaft center bearing?

02 3500 2WD 6speed dually 214,000 miles This is kinda hard to describe but I'll try Over the last few months, started to notice while driving down the road at highway speeds - most notably above 60 mph, whenever I hit a slight (or any sort of) bump in the road - as the suspension bounces down - I hear a whining gear-ish grinding sound. It only happens on the downward bounce. Points to ponder - - Truck has a service body installed. it's not super heavy but the helper springs are just touching. I also have firestone air springs installed - but I don't use them to "hold" weight or lift it up etc. I usually keep the pressure low for added stability - 10 to 20 psi. - One of my rear shocks is blown. I mean totally blown - oil leaked out etc. I mention this because with a blown shock it's more bouncy in the back, for every bump the truck bounces 2 or 3 times etc and yea, at the bottom of each of those bounces I hear the whining gear-ish grinding sound. (BTW I just got new rear bilsteins from Geno's shocktober fest. Puttin them on today - will report after test drive) - Axle - Original limited slip dana 80. A Couple years ago I did the clutch plate re-stack & new 85w90 gl5 & 1 bottle friction modifier. At the same time put in all new timken inner and outer wheel bearings. The axle was tight after doing the -re-stack and I had some chattering around tight corners. Changed the diff fluid 2 weeks ago - this time I put in synthetic 75w140 and 2 bottles of friction mod. (it took 5 quarts of 75w140. I filled it right up to the bottom of the fill hole). - No more chattering around tight corners. Didn't seem to make a difference for the sound issue described above. - Drive shaft, U-joints and center bearing are all factory original - The sound issue described above happens both while engaged or coasting in neutral. - Not sure if it matters but I do have a minor leak which just started at the drive shaft yoke on the back of the trans. - While towing I NEVER use 6th. Prefer the 5th gear 1:1 straight through. Anyway your opinions or thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I'm thinking maybe U-joints? Making noise only when they are flexed a little beyond normal ?- as in full suspension travel on the down stroke? Thanks

I thought I read somewhere that the dana 80 is a limited slip axle. That is ALL dana 80's are limited slip. Regardless, I used permatex ultra grey and put in 80w-90 GL5 with 2 bottles of friction mod when I installed all new rear bearings last year, since the previous owner had an outter wheel bearing go bad to the point where the axle shaft was grinding into the axle tube. He replaced it with a cheapo bearing so i decided to do the right thing and install complete a set of timkens, as well as spindle flat locking washers (eliminating the nylon insert lock nut & lock wedge). Got the whole kit from quad4x4.com Good price, great customer service. Bottom line is, I'm lucky I was able to save the axle. I don't know why the outer bearing went bad, who knows maybe he was low on lube. Regardless, i'm not taking chances. I'm soon going to change the lube and put in a slight overfill of synthetic 75-140 & a couple bottles of oem friction mod. BTW, taken from the owners manual. Ironically, this page is from the "Towing" section of the manual, not the maint & lube section.

I second this. The push lock hose / jic fittings that come with the fuel boss are a breeze to work with. Occasionally a hose may be hard to push on the fittings but all you have to do is heat it slightly with a heat gun or dip it in hot water for a few min.