bmac

First off, nice ride! As with many here, I suspect the fan clutch, dirty or clogged radiator. If at that temperature, if it doesn't sound like a helicopter under your hood, your probably not turning enough air. If you have good fan lockup, I would suspect the good old oiled Cummins radiator syndrome. MoparMan has a good setup for fixing this. Anyway, if you are getting not alot of wind noise under that load at that temp, replace the fan clutch. Frankly, if its original, it's a cheap fix and good insurance to do anyway. Have you tracked down the problem here yet?

Does the transmission's TC seems to lock, and immediately unlock and repeat? This could be a sign of a ground issue. I know I have read a similar post before. If it's locking and then, immediately unlocking, and repeating this, you may be able to fix it pretty easily.

Hey everyone. I posted on Cumminsforum, but nobody like writing back. Hopefully, some more activity here.Anyway, my truck is making a new noise that is concerning me. As I'm driving, there is recently a lot of driveline whine which has gotten louder. Under power, it sounds like the rear. Just recently, there is a new addition to the party. When I let off the gas, and the engine is holding back from about 40-MPH to 10-MPH, there is a clicking noise that slows as the truck slows (remember, my transmission has a strong lockout). So, I thought U-joints, right? Well, I crawled under the truck and checked the front and rear u-joints and they seem fine. They are spicers after all. The front and rear fluid levels are good. So, I'm wondering the following.1. Would an auto transmission make a clicking noise when not under power (holding back), while operating fine otherwise?2. Would a transfer case just "go" and make a clicking noise? Perhaps the chain?3. Could it be something farther up the line? It seems to be centrally located to the chassis. 4. Would the center support bearing make this noise?Thanks in advance for the help. Of course, I'm getting ready for a big trip next week and would like to use my truck. Brian

Is the steel coated by anything? Galvanized, powder coated, etc??? Cheap is good, but only if it lasts? The weight? Dude... You drive a Cummins that can pull 20K plus... Don't sweat 300 - 400 lbs.

If you want to keep your truck rolling and not work the hell out of it, get the Raptor. Upgrades from here are the FASS and AirDog. The higher end AirDog allows for you to adjust your fuel pressure whic is nice, but it's pay-to-play. If I was running a relatively stock truck with perhaps a module and injectors, I would do the Raptor... ALSO, WELCOME TO THE FORUM!

MUST BE VERY NICE.... I FEEL LIKE I'M TRYING TO GET A TURBINE RACE CAR STAGED... :biggrin:

I know a bit about the factory vs. modded vs. REALLY modded transmissions. My factory trans failed after my first performance kit (Banks) in 6000-miles. At this point, the truck had 86K or her. I took the trans to a friend who owns and runs a shop. He rebuilt it to be "bullett proof"... Well, 2000-miles later, I had grey fluid... Another "bullett proof" rebuild later and this time, 3200 later, I was grey again... I was smoking transmissions like Cheech and Chong smoke.. Well, you get the picture. The biggest issues with our transmissions is the factory TQ converter. It's always unlocked until you get upwards of 45-MPH.... Well, to get there with no load, you have created quite a substantial amount of heat. Under a load? Think about how long it takes you to get up to speed with 10-14K behind ya. Throw in an exhaust, a chip and a heavy right foot and you can understand how these things fails so quickly. This heat can't get peeled quickly enough by the stock trans cooler. It sounds like you are getting close to needing a rebuild. Now, there are lots of people that have awesome transmissions, but they also come at an awesome price. If you don't plan on modding much and are looking for longevity, go with a stock rebuild, BUT.... - Get a 2-3 disc TQ converter- Get an aftermarket valve body These two items in themselves will reduce the amount of head being created by your transmission and improve the overall performance, longevity and owner happiness with your rebuild. If you are looking for a turn-key, take a look at some of the vendors on here. I'm an ATS guy, but it's because there was NOBODY else around at the time that had a good name when I took the dive. My transmission is very insane and I don't think I'll be replacing anything in the next 5-10 years. Today, BD, ATS, Gorening (think I spelled this right) and even your local shop can do a good job..... Promote lockup, good fluid flow and reduce heat is the name of the game for our trucks.

Please let me know the name / number of that yard... Rather than beating the truck senseless, it would be easier for me to buy a complete part and just replace the bed and tailgate all together... Paint? I got a guy who does that.....

It's not a terrible job. Make sure you get one that will in-line with your current plumbing. Many of us have larger pipes that can make it harder to do the exhaust brake. I'm looking to put one in too. I just done have a grand to throw at it yet... Let us know which one you go with and also, check with the manufacturers guide for installation. This should be pretty detailed in the requirments. FOUND THIS ON BD'S SITE FOR THEIR UNIT... http://www.dieselperformance.com/productManual/2033135_-_2033137_Dodge_Engine_Brake1.pdf

So, do you or a friend have a load tester? 8-year old batts are getting up there, but I don't see how bad batteries would jump your voltage up and down like this. When my batts went bad, my voltage would drop bad when starting and it would cycle up and down a lot until the charge got back. On the road, there were not real major ups and downs. Test the batteries with a load tester. http://www.batterystuff.com/tutorial_battery.html 6. Battery Testing can be done in more than one way. The most accurate method is measurement of specific gravity and battery voltage. To measure specific gravity buy a temperature compensating hydrometer, to measure voltage use a digital D.C. Voltmeter. A quality load tester may be a good purchase if you need to test sealed batteries. For any of these methods, you must first fully charge the battery and then remove the surface charge. If the battery has been sitting at least several hours (I prefer at least 12 hours) you may begin testing. To remove surface charge the battery must be discharged for several minutes. Using a headlight (high beam) will do the trick. After turning off the light you are ready to test the battery. State of ChargeSpecific GravityVoltage12V6V100%1.26512.76.3*75%1.22512.46.250%1.19012.26.125%1.15512.06.0Discharged1.12011.96.0 *Sulfation of Batteries starts when specific gravity falls below 1.225 or voltage measures less than 12.4 for a 12v battery, or 6.2 for a 6 volt battery. Sulfation hardens on the battery plates reducing and eventually destroying the ability of the battery to generate Volts and Amps. Load testing is yet another way of testing a battery. Load test removes amps from a battery much like starting an engine would. A load tester can be purchased at most auto parts stores. Some battery companies label their battery with the amp load for testing. This number is usually 1/2 of the CCA rating. For instance, a 500CCA battery would load test at 250 amps for 15 seconds. A load test can only be performed if the battery is near or at full charge. The results of your testing should be as follows: Hydrometer readings should not vary more than .05 differences between cells. Digital Voltmeters should read as the voltage is shown in this document. The sealed AGM and Gel-Cell battery voltage (full charged) will be slightly higher in the 12.8 to 12.9 ranges. If you have voltage readings in the 10.5 volts range on a charged battery, that typically indicates a shorted cell. If you have a maintenance free wet cell, the only ways to test are voltmeter and load test. Any of the maintenance free type batteries that have a built in hydrometer(black/green window) will tell you the condition of 1 cell of 6. You may get a good reading from 1 cell but have a problem with other cells in the battery. When in doubt about battery testing, call the battery manufacturer. Many batteries sold today have a toll free number to call for help. 7. Selecting a Battery - When buying a new battery I suggest you purchase a battery with the greatest reserve capacity or amp hour rating possible. Of course the physical size, cable hook up, and terminal type must be a consideration. You may want to consider a Gel Cell or an Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) rather than a Wet Cell if the application is in a harsher environment or the battery is not going to receive regular maintenance and charging. Be sure to purchase the correct type of battery for the job it must do. Remember that engine starting batteries and deep cycle batteries are different. Freshness of a new battery is very important. The longer a battery sits and is not re-charged the more damaging sulfation build up there may be on the plates. Most batteries have a date of manufacture code on them. The month is indicated by a letter 'A' being January and a number '4' being 2004. C4 would tell us the battery was manufactured in March 2004. Remember the fresher the better. The letter "i" is not used because it can be confused with #1. Battery warranties are figured in the favor of battery manufactures. Let's say you buy a 60-month warranty battery and it lives 41 months. The warranty is pro-rated so when taking the months used against the full retail price of the battery you end up paying about the same money as if you purchased the battery at the sale price. This makes the manufacturer happy. What makes me happy is to exceed the warranty. Let me assure you it can be done. 8. Battery life and performance - Average battery life has become shorter as energy requirements have increased. Two phrases I hear most often are "my battery won't take a charge, and my battery won't hold a charge". Only 30% of batteries sold today reach the 48-month mark. In fact 80% of all battery failure is related to sulfation build-up. This build up occurs when the sulfur molecules in the electrolyte (battery acid) become so deeply discharged that they begin to coat the battery's lead plates. Before long the plates become so coated that the battery dies. The causes of sulfation are numerous. Let me list some for you. [*]Batteries sit too long between charges. As little as 24 hours in hot weather and several days in cooler weather. [*]Battery is stored without some type of energy input. [*]"Deep cycling" an engine starting battery. Remember these batteries can't stand deep discharge. [*]Undercharging of a battery to only 90% of capacity will allow sulfation of the battery using the 10% of battery chemistry not reactivated by the incompleted charging cycle. [*]Heat of 100 plus F., increases internal discharge. As temperatures increase so does internal discharge. A new fully charged battery left sitting 24 hours a day at 110 degrees F for 30 days would most likely not start an engine. [*]Low electrolyte level - battery plates exposed to air will immediately sulfate. [*]Incorrect charging levels and settings. Most cheap battery chargers can do more harm than good. See the section on battery charging. [*]Cold weather is also hard on the battery. The chemistry does not make the same amount of energy as a warm battery. A deeply discharged battery can freeze solid in sub zero weather. [*]Parasitic drain is a load put on a battery with the key off. More info on parasitic drain will follow in this document. Also, if you have a volt meter, turn on your high beams / lights for a few mintues to remove the surface charge. After this, have someone start your truck while you have a direct connection to the altenator. Watch for alt cycling and listen for wining, etc. Our trucks all cycle with the grid heater, but your altenator should go off and turn back on in a consistent manner pushing about the same voltage during charging. An dropping or jumping in an extreme manner may indicate the volt regulator going south..... It's your alt (or part of) or your batts... When batteries go bad, it beats the altenator simple. The vice-versa applies. I know you don't live close to an auto zone, etc. They would be smiling to load test your batteries or test your alt... Is there a shop close by that you may be "buddies" with? :confused::confused::confused:

I'm right outside of Philadelphia, PA. It's not a daily driver... More of my boy-toy....

After my new VP, my mileage increased and the amount of smoke I was rolling greatly decreased... The old pump was a hot-rodded unit probably pushing more fuel, but I'm happy stock...My fuel mileage got so good, I didn't even see the pole I back into!!!! ahahahaha Still working on what to do with my dent.

$1000 deductible and got pinged for a speeding ticket a while back... Don't want them to be running my records just yet.... hmmm... If I can get this done for around $2500, I'll skip the insurance... If not, I don't have much of a choice....

So, below is the bad news.... http://docs.google.com/Doc?docid=0Ab9nHEejn2lGZGZnM2RzejhfMmRoY2g3Nmdn&hl=en

So this is going to involve welding??? crappy! I'm thinking I'm out 2500 or so on this one... I'll post a picture shortly just so you all can cry with me... The perfect body truck since 1999... Not even a scratcha and voila... Back into a freakin pole!

So, I'm not getting into specifics, but I goofed. I was backing into a shop parking lot and from the first angle, there was no way I could have seen it... I backed into a freakin light pole... :eek::whistle: Now, this would not have been much of an issue, but I was backing into a parking spot off my passanger side mirror completely hiding the pole coming up on my driver side as I was turning into a spot... At the moment the pole was visible in my driver side, I was already into it. I caught the far corner of my bumper which pushed in and turned the fender under, cracked the tail light and really pissed me off. So, if you were going to buy a - Driver side back fender- New Bumper- New light assembly and potentiall a new tailgate (not sure if it's turn at all), where would you go for the parts?

This is new... When I start up in the morning and go into gear, the engine seems to want to die. Basically, sees like the trans is grabbing too much...any ideas?

Let us know what you have going on in your signature. We never truly know much without understanding the makeup of your vehicle...Looking forward to helping ya out.

I recently bought a pump from Jacob Kidd. 951-377-4844 He is a good stand-up guy, the shipping was fast, no core charge and I even got a rebate using Bing to do the transaction. Being in Alaska, there may be a little extra charge for the shipping, but I'm happy with my purchase... :thumbsup: Let him know that Bmac (Brian McCarthy) passed on his name. Check out some of the advertisers on this forum too.

Got to Mobil, they say they are the best. Go to Rotella, they say they are the best. Go to Amsoil, they say they are the best. Go to .... Well, you get the picture. What is THE BEST oil for our trucks? Not just the engine, I'm talking the engine, trans, rears and anything else that has a little puddle of lubricant in it. I have been running Amsoil 15-40 since the new engine, but cringe when it's time to change. - What are the benefits of synthetic vs. dino? - What is the best dino? - What is the best synthetic?

My current fuel leak aside, I have NEVER gotten anything better than 21 while drivin Ms. Daisy.... I'm averaging about 17. How would one get their mileage up to 27???? Sign me up!

Godspeed! I just replace my bats with Interstates and am good for 72 months... More coin up front, but they are highly reliable.

I'd roll with the idea this is a boost leak too. How is the turbo plumbing, connectors and hosing? In particular, check the boot. If you have a friend you REALLY TRUST, have then brake boost the truck to give 3-5 PSI while you listen around under the hood.... soapy water on the elbows and boot could help you pin point a leak... I dont' think our trucks will throw fuel at an engine that is not getting compreable boost, but I could be mistaken. Anyone else? Ideas?

So, I'm thinking about paying santa to being me a new set of nice guages this year. I have a mix-match set in a 3-pod pillar right now. So, who makes the "coolest" gauges around? I'm running a pyro, fp and boost.

I have never had a fuel leak, but low and behold... When I power down, I get a drip off the bottom of the transmission.... I put a cup under it and collected a small amount, but enough to realize it sucks... Seems to be related to pressure in the lines as it stops after 10-minutes or so. Any ideas where to check for the most common fuel drips? :confused::confused: