MoparDave68

So I came out to my truck this morning and saw a pretty good size puddle under it. Now my parking lot at our apartment complex just got re-sealed the day before, so I figured that helped with the size of the puddle but when I saw it running off I got worried. SO I babied it to work and parked in on a flat surface and waited. It took about 2 hours before it started dripping, at first I thought it was coolant but it wasn't, it was oil. I crawled under and I saw the oil dripping right from behind the harmonic balancer. I am assuming that it has to be either the front main seal or from the timing cover. I have never attempted a front main seal, so what do I need to look out for and what is the best way to tackle this? I assume the radiator, condenser, and intercooler need to be pulled. If I need to dig this deep I plan on doing the KDP fix. Any and all help is greatly appreciated!! Thanks Mick

So found a place local that does free pop testing on injectors. I'm gonna pull them next week and bring them down. Ive never pulled my injectors, I have watched the video many times though. What if any thing will I need to replace when I put them back in (Granted they are OK).

I agree with you on testing, I guess I misunderstood what you were saying. How does one go about getting injectors tested?

Mike, I had plans of replacing my injectors in the very near future. It's actually the next upgrade on my long list of stuff to do. I was hoping to wait till I could get my new turbo and injectors together but if the smoke issue is pointing at a possible faulty injector I would just assume get them replaced with new ones now. Could the smoke issue and the very intermitten hard start issue be related? And possily replacing the injectors could solve both issue together?? Thanks again guys.

That would make sence. Ive been reading that the P1693 code is like you said saying that there is a fault in the ECM, just not specific. It is usually paired with another code, But I only pull that code on the scanner.

I used my buddies scanner and pulled up 2 codes. I got a P1693 coder and a P0460 code. The P1693 code says it's a companion code? But not sure what that means THe P0460 code is a fuel level sensor A circuit fault. Probablt explains my malfunctioning fuel gauge sensor that I just havn't gotten around to fixing LOL There is no check engine light on, nor has there been in a long time. I scanned it 3 times and only got those two codes so I'm not too sure what to look at next.

I have not scanned it, I am hopefully going to do that today. Injectors were my first thought but I wasn't sure if they would make this impact. I was planning on replacing them soon as it is.

Over the last few months my trucks has randomly had a long crank to start issue. Only has happen maybe 4 times. It usually takes less then a second and shes running. But when this long crank happens it usually takes between 3 and 4 seconds to start. This always happens after the tuck has been sitting for at least over night. Also the last few days I have noticed a light gray colored smoke coming from my stacks when I step on it. My truck is completely stock as far as turbo injectors or chips go and I have never before made smoke (which is how I want it ti stay haha) But the last few days it seems to smoke more. Are these two issues related? What should I be looking for as far as problems go? Is the smoke normal on a truck with 197K miles? Any and all input will be greatly appreciated, Thank you!

My truck has 4.10's Yes I have a functional brake controller. First thing I bought for the truck was the brake controller.

Ive got the opportunity to tow a friend of mine's fire departments breathing air compressor/generator set up for them. It weighs in around 9,000 - 10,000 lbs. About 12 feet long, tandom axle. My questions, as Ive never really towed this much weight for this length of distance (roughly 125 miles @ roughly 65 mph): What do i need to worry about as far as my transmission goes, I do not have a gauge for it yet and wont before the trip. EGT's and Boost, what to watch for there as far as too high EGT's and best EGT/Boost combo to keep it cool. Ive towed many things so towing is nothing new to me. Boats, campers, trailers. But this is much heavy that most things Ive ever had the pleasure to tow, so I need all the advice I can get (Not on how to tow, more on how to keep my truck safe, I know these 47RE trannys are a stubborn child under heavy loads and such) Thanks all.

I'm running 4" SS turbo back to 6" dual MBRP Stacks out the bed. My truck is stock (as far as engine mods go) and I barely blow any smoke, towing or not. So the stacks have been great for me. I wanted stacks since I was knee high to a grass hopper. I bought my truck when I was 20, living at home mind you, and did all this even though my old man didn't 100% approve, but It's my truck and my decision. I love my stacks minus the loss of bed space, but I got over that quick. The hardest hump to tackle is cutting a whole in a perfectly clean, rust free box HAHA.

Well if I am going to upgrade to the HX (which seems to be the most logical thing to keep all Temps in check) with 60HP Sticks, What if anything do I need to do to my exhaust? Will in require a different flange or will the HX bolt right up? I have 4" turbo back to the Y pipe where it splits to 6" Stacks.

Fab work doesn't bother me but not the project I'm looking to get into yet LOL. I think injectors and programmer will be fine for now. Waking er up is all I want no need for high horsepower just yet haha

I had a new single disc converter installed, my old converter was toast. Ive been looking at valve bodies, I did the shift kit to help with firmer shift points and helped open the port to allow fluid to run to the converter while in park. I'm not looking for massive power upgrades, I just want less lag for take off and better overall performance. I think injectors at least, and possibly a tuner for now. If I decide to go bigger and badder I will upgrade the tranny more first. So on to the next question, what is the bet brand and size injector to run for my application?

Thanks for the info. I just had my transmission rebuilt. It is basically stock. I have a HD TransGo Shift Kit installed thats it.

Honestly I don't have a HP number in mind. My truck is my DD and I tow a boat or camper on occasion. My injectors are stock and I'm less than 5k from 200K miles, so I think I will at least do injectors soon. Tuner would be good I just thought maybe some sticks a better turbo would be better. I'm not sure what my stock turbo is, to be honest I haven't even looked.

So I'm on to the next upgrade in the Pearl. I want to upgrade the turbo and the injectors. As of current I have the stock turbo and the stock injectors in er. I'm looking to get more ponies to the ground, better take off, better mpg's, and just better overall performance. I have upgraded to an Air Dog II 165 already, so my VP is getting plenty of that sweet nectar it loves so much. So let's hear some of your combos and how they work for you please! Thanks, Mick

I run 15w-40 Rotella year round. I see -10* or colder sometimes. But most of winter is between -5* and 30*, Never have an issue.

Yeah, Ive been watching YouTube videos hardcore the last few days. Seems tricky but nothing I can't handle hopefully, with a buddy at least lol. Seal and bearing kit, gonna do both u-joints, both wheel bearings, and the ball joints cause I'll already have it basically torn apart. My ring, pinion and spider gears all look good as does the carrier so I'm just gonna clean em up and keep em. Should be a good day of fun! lol.

Yeah I am very lucky. I checked everything over today, refilled it and spun the driveshaft. It sounds a million times better but I really need to get that bearing replaced now and find out which seal (s) are leaking and stop my fluid lose! lol

I used to check em every oil change and I got away from it. I will neve forget to keep that inspected now. Big mistake that could of cost me a lot more damage than it did. I'm glad it's as clean as it is especially knowing that Ive been running with out oil for who knows how long! LOL. Well glad I caught it. Now to get it fixed!

Well I just pulled the cover and Holy Moley! Not a drop of oil in er. I have a leak with out having a leak? :banghead: My pinion bearing is toast. Not sure what else is bad untill I am able to pull the carrier out. My ring gear and pinion gear look okay, no cracks, breaks, chips or pieces missing. I'm gonna order a master overhaul kit for the Diff (bearings, seals, races, bolts, ect). 206 bucks from Rock Auto. That way I can replace it all while it's out. Never done one so this should be fun. Any tips or pointers? Here's what it looked like inside :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

That was the plan for either tonight or tomorrow. Ive got drill tonight so depending on how work goes, I may o r may not have time in between to pull the cover and look. The front end rebuild is pretty pricey, hopefully it's just something simple.

I just pulled the center axle disconnect and looked in there, nothing is broken or missing. The fork looks good and the ring gear moves freely and is not broken, cracked, or damaged in any way. What all is involved in changeing a ring and pinion gear? Ive pretty much concluded it is something in that aspect.

What am I looking for inside there? Any thing in particular?