LT smoke

called south bend ,,,of course their recomendation was taking the tranny back down and bleeding the slave cylinder and replacing the fluid in it ......:banghead: so i decided that i would get several cans of engine degresser and pretty everything up in anticipation of dropping the tranny and doing some work .. while i was under there spraying everything down i got the bright idea to look in the inspection slot at the teeth hopeing i wouldnt need to call an order another clutch and flex plate ....much to my amazement i see a a bolt head laying at the bottom of the tranny looks to be about a 12 or 14 mm head ..no threads ....my best guess is this is a flex plate bolt ? ....next question is does any one know if this will affect how the truck shifts and also found that my truck had been stuck in four wheel drive high range ....(just got the front drive shaft back and installed )

very good info here ....thanks to all that helped out ...as for the load on the truck i havent measured it specifically yet but most of the stuff is led warning lights .....a laptop computer for on scene info a 1200 watt stereo amp ..cell phone charger two way mobile radio pushing roughly 100 watts and a portable radio charger ....i believe the biggest problem is no high idle yet ....kinda haveing issues with my local dealer saying they r not sure if they can do the upgrade or not and if they can they r telling me it will take about three or four hours and around 250 bucks......admittedly I am not a service tech for a diesel but I dont believe that (A) it takes that long to connect a obdii tool erase one or two programms and install another one and (b) i cant really believe that it needs to cost that much to let a computer do most of the work. i have also noticed that the red top optima batteries seem to take a bit more to recharge....also my local dealer cant tell me if its a high 6 cylinder idle or a 3 cylinder or both ......i get the impression they dont want to work on a diesel there

Does anyone have any info on doing dual alternators on a 3500 dualie ? Interested in doing this mod for the drain on my optimal red tops from the use at the fd .......also on a side note recently did a bunch of body work on the beast and thought I would do a write up with pics for everyone ...but not sure how to post it any one able to help with this

any one got a part number on the holley blue pumps and can they be wired to the ignition on hot wire

havent called sb yet ...but i have been driving the truck ...found the gear box to be leaking /low on fluid refilled it and it seemed to do better for a about 200 miles .....the slave cylinder may also b an issue due to non bleeding of the line ....my fault new /first time changeing a clutch didnt know the slave cyclnder needed bleed out.hope to call sb on monday.

ok jacked up the rear and found that under normal conditions the tires do rotate ..but if the clutch pedal is almost crushed too the floor then the throw out seems to work correctly and the tires stop rotating ....:banghead: any suggestions ?

ok small update drove the truck about thirty miles to work yesterday morning with temps about freezing ...let the truck idle for about 25 min before leaving ....only proble was third gear grind a little ..which has been that way since i got the truck......today comeing home from work temps were only slightly warmer ...about 38 degrees ..no warm up on the truck and it did horrible had to double clutch and force the stick into every gear then to reverse into the parking spot at home had to wait for ten min at idle trying to force into reverse before it went ..........tomorrow is the jack test day due to to many things happening with the fire dept today .....used the wifes car the rest of today

hmmm didnt really keep track maybe around 7 or 8 thousand miles

fluid level is good ....pedal is softer than i recall from just after the swap I can try the jack issue on wed

ok need some help here please ......I replaced the clutch and flywheel this past april on my beast ......put in a south bend ....and everything went great until yesterday ....now the truck acts as if the throw out bearing is not completly disengaging the clutch ...ie synchros raking ....stick hard to push into various gears especially 3 rd and reverse.....any ideas other than tearing the whole tranny back out?

Ok first my apologies if these two questions are in the wrong area......first question does anyone know if the dodge srt 10 hoods will fit on the 98.5 3500 trucks?....second has anyone heard of using one of the "farm and garden" type sprayers for an after market lift pump ? the specs I got on one were as follows 2.4 gpm and a pressure rating 45 psi ....unfortunately i don't believe the pressure was on lines of 1/2 i think they were only around a 1/4 inch any insight would b great thanks all ...and sorry for not posting for a while the army has had me busy ....good news is the old truck got some work done while i was gone ..pics to follow soon

Just checking any one else in the state of ohio?

lol i dont think i will have a problem on the grind part mine has a hole clear thru it ....as for the foil tape i have about forty rolls from when i worked at a heating and air conditioning sales service shop ....i will do some before and after photos this week

HHMMMMM looks like i found my next project for my fat bottom girl...my left fender was busted when i got her....didnt really want to buy a new one ..or a new bed so now that i know its its an easy fix i guess i will try it myself ....heck i just replaced the track bar today myself .dont figure it will b much harder than that

wild and free do you have any info on this micro lock

will post pictures of what ever i find

correct me if i'm wrong but Michael uses an exhaust brake as well correct and I didnt see him mention anything about a sticking butterfly valve.....do the two of you have diffrent exhaust brakes or possible that it wasnt totally the 2 cycle oil giving you problems.....not trying to b mean on this by any means ..just trying to explore all possibilities and maybe help a few other ppl out ..hate to see any of use make a poor decision on something just because we didnt ask enough questions .....seems like there are a lot of benifiets to the two cycle oil as well as to haveing an exhaust brake ...seems like with the right investigation into this we should all be able to benifiet from haveing both items on our trucks

just kinda curious how do you clean the syncro mesh .....reason i ask is i notice a little grind when shifting into third gear and i am wondering if maybe there is an inexpensive way to fix this grinding

ah64 did i understand correctly that you no longer use 2 cycle ? and if so any particular reason you stopped

gotcha:thumb1:

ah64 while you were idleing for extended periods did you happen to go to a high idle or stay at the normal 850-1000 rpm range? just wondering if the high idle might have helped with cutting some of the build up looking like it will b nothing but 2 stroke for me so far ...one quart for every full tank fill up if i did the math correct ...right

:ahhh: so much for a simple answer any way looks like some intresting information ..apperently the power service and xdp additives are more for cleaning the fuel system is there a chance that the 2 cycle could plug the injectors? maybe running one of the solvent based additives say twice a year or once every quarter might b of benefiet?

Ok so most of us would agree that two cycle oil in the fuel for the vp44 is a good thing when mixed properly ....my question is can we mix other products in as well for other benefits like the powerservice products or Lucas oil or xdp?

very true and if ya break it ....well its already broke right:thumbup2:

well i guess i will try pulling the motor first ...then calling napa if that doesnt work:hyper: