Everything posted by TFaoro
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Turbo rebuild
No idea on blades... The upgrade will give you more air (lower EGTs and more power.) It will be just a touch laggier. I don't forsee a difference in MPGs with that small of a change
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Manual Trans Conversion - Seeking Advice/Tips/Issues/etc
Try an nv5600 with a floor jack and a 5'4" weakling I feel your struggle!
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Unidentified noise
I have read a couple of those threads. I would be very hesitant to try and drill through the race!
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Front axle seal leak
Careful with this . Usually it takes some impact to not bend the seal
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Front drive shaft double cardan joint
I don't think that's true balancing.... from the sounds of it that just makes sure the shaft is straight, but I could be wrong!
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TIRES
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Teardown and Rebuild
From what can find, 9.8-10.5 is optimal
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Unidentified noise
I guess I'm more surprised there isn't more widespread information about getting some grease in them. It's like never greasing the bearings on a trailer.... yes, they'll last a while, but they last longer if you re-pack them once in a while!
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Front drive shaft double cardan joint
have you ever done one of those?? They're MISERABLE!
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TIRES
Coming soon to a forum near you......
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Front drive shaft double cardan joint
Honestly, I would take it to a driveline shop. Between 2 U joints and the centering ball I bet your shaft will be out of balance
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On to the next problem, a leaking head gasket.
Last pic isn't working for me... Also, I would use a wire wheel (if available) to clean the carbon build-up off of them. A wire brush would probably work too.
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Unidentified noise
Then the only way to do yours would be to drill it, unless there's a plug where the sensor would be. Personally I would do something! I'm really amazed no one greases them. Yes they're sealed, but I don't see why they shouldn't be greased. If you do research (I did a ton!) there's guys out there with 400K+ on factory, greased front bearings.
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TIRES
That kind of a road is easy to drive on. It's when the plows come by and leave a thin layer of ice on top of the road that makes it difficult. Where I live during school (Golden CO) literally the whole place is on a hill. My truck will go backwards if not in 4wd, and I've gotten stuck on hills in a car because the roads are so slick
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On to the next problem, a leaking head gasket.
The valve itself looks good! Not sharp on the edge, no deep grooves, etc. Assuming the stem looks good and you can get them all sealed up you should be good to go!
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Redhead or Bluetop?
That is where we have it back to no, and it steers okay but my mom doesn't like how it's "loose." It doesn't bother me, but it's hers and she's really the only one who drives it. Sticky really is scary.... ever been going 80 around a corner, through a mountain pass and having to pull the wheel in both directions instead of steadily releasing the steering wheel and allowing it to return to center? Makes you look like a drunk moron driving -__-
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TIRES
I think I'm going to try a set of Nitto Terra Grappler G2 tires in size 285/70/17. My brother has these and is Very happy with them! With how much power he has it's hard to find a tire that doesn't spin and these have gotten the job done for him. I'm going a bit bigger to drop RPMs from the transmission change. I'll be happy if rpms drop and mileage remains about the same.
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Unidentified noise
Really easy to see if there is a sensor there. Is there a wire running with each brake line? (front)
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Unidentified noise
Pop the sensor out and grease it through the hole. It's in my build thread a page or 2 back. I think that's more of a problem with yours Mike. I guarantee I have WAY more grease in the tone ring on mine than you do on yours. Thus that tells me it's not just a grease issue. You might as well grease yours.... it isn't working as it is. It'll just make em last longer.
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Teardown and Rebuild
I didn't use test strips.... I linked those just to test the acidity of the coolant. I used a tester with the floating balls. When you say I'm not trusting the mfgr specs, I am. I know how much coolant and water I got into the thing, and it sure as heck does not total out to 6 gallons. Like I said I'm not sure if I've got the smallest cooling system in the world or what but there's no possible way there was over a gallon left in the system after draining from the radiator and the hoses. You've also got to remember antifreeze does not cool as well as water, that's why the right balance is also imperative. I could have left the extra in there, but towing in 104* weather I'd like as much cooling as possible. If my motor rots apart I'll let everyone know As always though John (@AH64ID), I do appreciate your input.
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Teardown and Rebuild
That's what I did. I added 3 gallons of coolant first, then distilled water. Then drove it 300 miles (should have been mixed by then) Tested it, came out as too much coolant, drained out a gallon, then filled with water. Drive 100 miles, tested coolant and is good to -25F. I'm good with that. I'm not saying everyone should do that, but I have no regrets
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Teardown and Rebuild
Sorry I missed this! I cut it right before the elbow. I would have liked it to face more perpendicular like you were talking, but the tip was too long and would have stuck out past the tire. That's a no no for me! I drive too close to stuff haha With some of these https://www.amazon.com/Cool-Trak-311519-Coolant-Testing-Strips/dp/B000MIUJMO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468935112&sr=8-1&keywords=antifreeze+test+strips
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Unidentified noise
That's why I grease mine Check the brake hardware as well. I got a slight chirp while braking, and it was the hardware being pulled into the rotor.
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Teardown and Rebuild
We use the same tester on all of the farm equipment to ensure the water doesn't freeze in them over the winter. It's been to -15F before and we haven't cracked a block, so I bet it's pretty accurate. Like I said this is just MY experience. When I flushed everything there was NO way there was over a gallon left in the system. Did some orange come out? Yes, but from what I could tell it was about half a gallon. The rear end was so high there's no way anything was left in the block, only antifreeze left in the heater core. We'll see, but the everything looks good so far. As for water being left in the system, I'm not worried about it. Where I live the water is VERY clean. Don't even use distilled in the equipment and the radiators are still spotless Check the PH and don't worry about it. There is no way to make everything perfect if you're flushing and putting in a different antifreeze. There's nothing you can do, so check the PH, run it, and enjoy.
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Teardown and Rebuild
Those numbers are all fine and dandy... BUT I tested the coolants freezing point. With 3 gallons of antifreeze it was lower than -40F. With 2.5 gallons the freeze point is -25F. Maybe I've got the smallest cooling system out there