TFaoro

That's a good link to keep around! Hopefully it makes the 4500 purr like the original.

I'm pushing toward $5K on this swap.... Overthinking is going to happen

Check this PDF out. Some great information! http://www.carbonitecummins.com/Documents/Trans%20Oil%20Comparison.pdf

1 gal Delvac 50 and three qts Amsoil 5-30 Synchromesh. Check this PDF out. Some great information! http://www.carbonitecummins.com/Documents/Trans%20Oil%20Comparison.pdf

Unlike @Mopar1973Man's issue of not having the transmission oil made any more, I'm having the issue of which oil to run in the G56. Dodge put regular atf in the transmission, and from what I can tell that was only to save money. Mercedes (the manufacture of the transmission) does NOT recommend atf, but rather the same stuff @Mopar1973Man is going to put in his nv4500. Mobil SAE50 Synthetic transmission oil is what is spec'd. There's also a hotshotter out there who has a fleet with g56 transmissions and has a coctail of multiple oils. I'm looking forward to hearing stories / opinions on what I should use. Thanks!

Don't put that on me!! I'm all out of truck money now! A 2005 2500. Same with the transfer case. Transmission has 60k and the transfer case has a fresh rebuild

I believe the g56 sits much different than the 5600, but I wouldn't swear to it Got the driveshaft prices... Rear is going to be $140. They made me a deal because I just had it balanced. The front one needs 3 u joints, a cardan joint kit, and a new (longer) shaft put in. That's costing me $330. It hurts but I should be set for a while.

Careful thought process and taking your time goes a long way! I could have scabbed something together in a couple hours, but I like things done right. The swap really wasn't that bad. If you have the proper tools, anything can be done!

Stock to kill and everything in-between

I did it. It's pretty easy, especially if you buy the sillicone hose instead of building the charge pipe. I also clocked the compressor housing and built a wastegate actuator off of the drain bolts. The last thing I did was buy a plug for the electronic actuator from DAP. It's a great little turbo, but got a bit warm for me with 100's while towing in the mountains.

My dealership still has a BUNCH. If you would like me to pick some up and send it to you, say the word.

Wish I was just patching a tire.... Is there any way you can look for that plug for me? After 5 hours last night I gave up.... Closest thing I came up with: http://puredieselpower.com/dodge-products/g56-6-speed-reverse-light-switch-clone.html

Look like it's time for some paint I'm very interested in how the steering gear works out for you! We talked about this earlier, but rolling mine around the shop this weekend was miserable. Even while rolling it was extremely hard to turn the wheel... I may have figured out what keeps killing my PS pumps.....

So lots of info. I've now got everything bolted up and am waiting on driveshafts to be built / modified and finding a plug for the reverse switch. Now, the build. The first thing we did was stuff the new south bend clutch in. It's the "same" as the clutch I had before, just made for the g56. We then decided to take a few measurements of the transmission and transfer cases. The shifter location on the g56 is almost identical to the nv4500, so there was no need to cut the floor . We then jacked up the front of the motor and attempted to stab the transmission... No go. The small loop on the top of the trans (You can see it at the front of the picture I already posted) kept hitting the pinch weld. So I cut it off. It then went in nice and easy, like it should. With it bolted up and supported we took the truck to the lift and took it to the top. From there we started on the transfer case. The np241 has a "block" of vacuum lines running into it to actuate the CAD. Turns out the 4x4 light on the nv271 works the exact same, so we were able to screw that in. The shift lever is also identical, so we bolted that up. We then stuck the Tcase in to check fitment. It's close to the frame, but it doesn't hit!. Then onto support the aluminum beast. We were able to use the stock support and bolt it directly to the g56 rather than using the adapter the nv4500 uses. Here you can see we cut the center section out because it had to drop around 3/4 of an inch. We also had to cut part of the left side to make clearance for the driveshaft. From there we used 1/4in plate drop the center section. We also made a 45 degree cuts to make strength for the new plate. Where it flattens out we used a rosebud to heat it up and beat it flat. It was the same process to plate the section cut out for the driveshaft. Here you can see some beautiful beads laid down by my father. I believe I'm a good welder, but he is an excellent welder. From there we bolted everything up tight. The next step was mounting the skid plate. Because of the monster transfer case it had to drop an inch and the nut that mounted the plate had to be removed. I didn't get any good pictured, but I also ground the spacer on the bottom and welded a nut on to hold the plate. It sits lower, but I feel having a skid plate is a necessity with what I use the truck for. Now I'm searching for the plug to make the reverse lights work. The drivveshafts should be done by the end of the week and hopefully she'll be rolling again friday.

Making some progress. I'm in the process of building the crossmember and will update later

When it warms up the fluid runs easier and allows less foot pressure to make the same amount of brake pressure... just a guess. I'd stick the proportioning valve back in for the rear. I know Mike says there aren't any on the newer models, but those have disc brakes. Apples to Oranges IMO I thought the original was a fixed valve...

VERY highly unlikely. It could be from all of the oil draining down into the pan.

Hmm... just doesn't seem like a smart thing to do. Proportioning valves are in everything for a reason. I can see the larger cylinders, but at least put in an adjustable valve.

Why did you remove the proportioning valve??? It's in there to make the truck brake properly, especially when unloaded. I'd start with putting that back in.

That directed at me or Mike? I've considered rebuilding mine and selling it....

I think I know exactly what you're talking about, but this is 4th gear when going down the road at any speed. It really is weird how it's only now and then. @Mopar1973Man might be right that is has something to do with the syncro. Thanks for the tips guys. If his ends up grenading he and I will probably rebuild it

Good to hear! How do you like the bump in power?

Rookie move!! Shop to the oven, then oven to the shop. Light a candle if the kitchen begins to smell like oil

There's never a need to press a non-sealed bearing in a manual transmission. Put it in the oven up to about 250* and it drops on like it's not an interference fit.

This list makes me laugh... Literally all I used was the 5th gear socket, the T27, and basic tools. If you want to get the bearings off the easy way a puller would help (I would get one if I really wanted to build the transmission better, but I knew it was bound to explode) Still, I understand where you're coming from.