TFaoro

If it's the timing case you've got a whole new world of work about to start. Whole front of the motor has to come off and the cam has to come out.

I've been told by many that they aren't necessary and I'm just worried about nothing... I'm not so sure. If I put new ones in they are going to be billet aluminum, not plastic. HVAC box is pretty much finished up. I just have to drop the new heater core in it with some foam and stuff it back into the truck. Picked this up. Can anyone guess what it is?

I've been through 3 PS pumps and still haven't figured out why mine overheats and spills out everywhere.... Hopefully your problem isn't the same!

No, they all looked okay. I'm just wondering if they are cheap insurance.

But the spooooool Ok, on order tomorrow: Springs, pushrods, tappets, damper, studs, oil cooler, oil pump, rod bolts, thermostat, and a front seal with a wear sleeve (May talk to machine shop but doubt they ordered one with a sleeve.) Now here's where I'm not sure. Do I take out the plastic piston cooling jets and replace them with billet ones fore reassurance, or say the heck with them and leave them in? What do you guys say?

Looking forward to the pics....

I think that depends on the emission equipment. I have no idea what it does to a DPF or recirculation system. All diesels without that strict equipment should be fine though. It is run in my dad's 12 valve, my borther's 05 CR, my 02 24V, and my mom's excursion (Powerstroke)

I learned from Mopar1973Man. My VP has only gone 1/2 of a tank without 2 stroke and that's beause I needed clean fuel in it for industrial injection to test the pump. It will never go without again! If you don't have enough pressure built up, then when there is an instantaneous high demand for fuel there won't be enough pressure to compensate and it could starve the pump. It's interesting how pressure / volume / velocity all work together to give a gph output.

Seriously how much power do you want? Mine has 500 to the wheels with a 62/65/12 and 125hp injectors. I can go from 50-100 VERY quickly when I want to. Tap the pump wire and it'll be a whole different truck.

That's just machining on the head though. I've got everything else to buy still.

$600 tamper

My head is costing 1,280+ and yes that's a comma in there. Stock head with 188k on it.

Thank you for the clarification! So in the end you agree studs would be a better option? I don't think it's a bad idea to go a bit overkill when it comes to holding the head down.

Well that depends on the velocity through that small hole. If the fuel can move quickly a high volume can go through it.

I was told these are torque to yeild which means they should never be reused. I wouldn't either way though.

I'll give a short rundown of what needs done here. Some responses are above in bold. #1 Take the insulation off the top of the firewall!!!! This will make the process 10X easier. Drain all of the coolant (Driver side of the radiator there is a plug. pull and twist and it will come out. Don't take it all the way out or coolant everywhere!) While the coolant is draining start on the passenger side. Pull the airbox out (I suppose this is optional but I would for room) Remove the turbo drain and supply lines (Make sure to plug both holes with tape/rags ect) Remove the turbo and manifold (if you are strong it can be done in one piece) Remove the coolant line going to the heater core and plug it On to the driver side Remove the intake horn, apps bracket, and grid heater (Throw rags in the intake plenum and charge pipe to keep them clean) Unhook the IAT sensor MAP sensor, and engine temp wires (Near the back of the head on the first two - front of the head for the last one) Remove all 6 injection lines (Might have to remove the engine removal bracket at the back of the head to get to 5 & 6) Remove all 6 crossover tubes (Explained above. Reinstall the bracket at the back of the head when you're done if you removed it.) Remove all 12 rockers and bridges (Set them to the side separately, in order, and label them so that you put them back in the same spot) Remove all 12 pushrods (Same thing - keep them in order and know which are exhaust and which are intakes) To remove #5&6 there are two rubber plugs in the top of the firewall. I can't remember if they have to come all the way out the top, or if you can just push them in there then twist out to the side. If the have to come out the top, remove both windshield wipers at the base, and unscrew the 5 plastic holders across the top of the "black piece." That one is pretty easy to remove, if need be. Remove all 6 injector hold downs and all 12 bolts. Start with the bolt on the passenger side, take it all the way out, remove the hold down, then remove the driver side bolt. (Again separate them) Use a valve cover bolt to remove the injectors (Sometimes it can take some strength!) Remove the fuel return banjo at the back of the head Remove all 26 head bolts Remove the top radiator hose and plug the radiator Use a cherry picker to remove the head off the top of the engine (Using the engine removal brackets.) These heads aren't light, and I don't think there is a safe way for one or even two men to remove it carefully without a cherry picker.

If at all possible, it would be best to support a vendor here on the site. Again I'll suggest going with an industrial injection from one of them. I haven't heard of any problems with them. You could also switch to a SO pump if you're going to be looking for more power down the road.

No sir. The 98.5-2002 manuals had the hx35 The 98.5-2000 autos had the hx35 2001-2002 autos had the hy35 The 01 and 02 also had torque management on the autos. Trust me on this I know I am right.

Sounds like the VP is getting pretty tired. Keep the lift pump pressure up and use 2 stroke to keep the fuel lubed and you should be good to go. I recommend industrial injection for a rebuilt pump.

It's a 99 so it has the hx35. (Plus you can't put a boost elbow in a hy) I like Mike's idea with the plug and test.

Unless you start talking about LB7 injectors... Flawed design. Pistons are going to be "Cummins cast marine pistons" per the machinist's words. He is going to mic everything today and order the rebuild kit. Then machining and polishing should start next week. Hopefully I get it back by next Friday.

Lol clams hurt pretty bad! An engine rebuild is going to cost about the same for all of them. It just depends on which go-fast parts you put into the motor. When this is all done I'll add up the cost. I don't care if everyone knows. As for maintenance that depends what you're talking about. The fuel system on the 12/24valves are cheaper to replace parts on. On the other hand 2nd gens tend to nickle and dime people for little repairs here an there. The younges ones are 13 years old! A CR can be cheaper to maintain IF all preventative measures are taken first (filtration mainly.) Not sure. I'll find out tomorrow. Right now I'm sort of stuck in a pickle. The machine shop needs to get the rebuild kit in but I don't know how thick of a gasket to use until I pop the pistons in and measure the protrusiton. Hopefully I can get a kit without the head gasket.

Alright the block and the crank were dropped off at the machine shop today. They said the crank looked pretty good for how bad the bearing looked. He thinks he can polish it out, so that will save me some money! I will also be going with the marine pistons. They look like they are higher quality than the OEM, and they are made to take a beating! The tops and bowls are ceramic coated, and there is another steel ring cast into the piston next to the second compression ring. Hopefully I'll find out an eta tomorrow or wednesday. I ordered one of these before I stuff the HVAC box back in http://www.heatertreater.net/magento/dodge/ram/95-02/dodge-ram-95-02.html I'd hate to put it together and have the blend door quit working. All other HVAC parts should be here Wednesday or Thursday. As for noticing the change with that much power you can't really tell in first because you can't load the engine very hard and make the turbo spool. It starts to show in second where it takes off hard from a dead stop, then 3rd 4th and 5th are WAY different. If the roads are wet at all or the temperature is cold it'll spin the tires in 5th doing 70mph. It really is pretty crazy the difference. Thaks for the compliments on the aluminum! Well worth it to me. My brother doesn't have the paitence for that. He's actually older than me too... he's 25 and I'm 21. Was your crank scored at all? I'm surprised you didn't have it at least polished if it was. Thrust surface looked good! No abnormal wear. I edited the post so it now says thrust bearing!

Hmmm, but was it the inner part of the thrust bearing that was torn up? Or was it the outside that the crank pushes against?