Everything posted by TFaoro
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Teardown and Rebuild
Thanks guys! Things are moving along nicely. If you have any questions when you go to polish them just shoot me a PM or give me a call. It isn't hard but it is time consuming! As for the probes, one is for the pillar gauges, one is for the TST.
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Teardown and Rebuild
Thank you for the offer! I have moved back south for the summer (about 2 hours south) so that would be a heck of a drive, but I do appreciate the offer! Maybe we can meet up sometime this fall. Ok got a few things done this weekend. Wiring harness out. Started taking the tape off of the harness. I ran into a snag though. Because I'm going to incorperate my aftermarket harnesses into this harness I need it in the truck to know how everything will run. So this will be on hold until I start stuffing the engine back in. Cleaned the engine bay. I still have more washing to do. One side of the engine bay Other side - an yes that is red primer the PO sprayed in there Center Started polishing the turbo. Before After - I'm about half done. I've decided how to clean up the paint mess in the engine bay. I am going to paint from the fenders down gloss black. I'll tape off the sides to that there's still blue on the vertical parts, but from there down will be gloss black. There's no way I'll ever get a pain to match the exterior, and I think the black will look good so that's the direction I'm going.
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Teardown and Rebuild
I'm doing my best! Sometimes I forget to stop and snap a couple pictures.... I found a ground loose on the passenger side that connects to the PCM. The little grey plug was plugged in, but my brother must have unbolted the body ground. I've got it flashed back to stock now, so no worries. Thanks for the help! Thank you! That was my plan but it's good to have some reassurance.
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Teardown and Rebuild
Don't worry the pistons are coming out! Just not for a bit. I've done a few things today. I started cleaning sealing surfaces and got the ECM flashed back to stock. Tomorrow I plan to pull all of the wiring back and give the bay a good wash job. Then I can start re-doing the wiring harness and painting the bay.
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Teardown and Rebuild
Then I spent a lot of money to find out my internals are healthy! O well though. The engine needed resealed, and I wanted to clean up the engine bay anyway. The knock was so inconsistent - that's why he thinks ecm and not hard parts. He said hard parts would have a constant knock.
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Teardown and Rebuild
The pistons haven't come out yet. I'm waiting to get the motor up on an engine stand before I go any further. I should be picking up the stand Tuesday, so hopefully I'll get the adapter made Tuesday night and get it on the stand Wednesday. I'm still waiting on a quote for the head.... that's probably where the big money will go, then it'll just nickle and dime me to death. I did speak with a guy who runs his own trucking business and has been rebuilding Cummins engines for 20+ years. He said from the sound he hears it's an injection knock.... I told him everything I've done and how all the tests have come back good so he's thinking it's ECM related. He says that's why I can't track it down to one cylinder.... it's something going haywire in the ECM causing a weird injection. Does that make sense to anyone else?
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Teardown and Rebuild
No. I've only got so much money and so much time. I will clean everything out the best I can. There's nothing wrong with the block though
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Teardown and Rebuild
I guess 1600* will keep things burned off! Why take it out though? I'm not having it balanced or turned, so I see no point in removing it.
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Teardown and Rebuild
AH64ID - I may give hamilton a call and see what they say is best for me. I do plan on turning around 4k, but this is by no means a race truck! Wild and Free - I am not planning on pulling the crank. The entire engine will be resealed though. The front cover is already off, the rear housing doesn't have seals IIRC, and rear cam O ring?? I'll have to look into that. I decided to wait on pulling the pistons until my engine stand gets here. Nothing inside is loose though. I know that for sure. Few pics from the day... Intake valve - looks terrible! Exhaust look perfect. Tore the turbo apart. I'm probably going to polish the housing. Closed up and headed for the barn.
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Teardown and Rebuild
http://www.hamiltoncams.com/18caca.html They say this is the best cam for idle to 4200rpm, and I plan on unlocking the TST to run 4,000rpm. I do tow, but the quick spooling turbo and cam should make towing a breeze. Plus I have a smoking deal on the 188/200. We'll see with bearings. I measured the rod bearings and they were right in spec so I'm not worried about them. I haven't messed with the mains, but it's easy to roll a set in. I am not going to pop the pistons out until I pick up my engine stand! It's made to hold 6,000lbs and rotates / tilts. Picked it up off of government liquidation for cheap!
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Teardown and Rebuild
If the bearings are within spec I don't see a point in replacing them. If they are worn then they will be replaced. I can mic the lobes, but a hamilton 188/220 will be going in no matter what.
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Teardown and Rebuild
IIRC you have to and or remove shims to get the lash correct. I'll know more when I dig into that. I'm going to get this motor figured out before I do that though. Maybe I'll take the pistons out tomorrow.... I am for sure going to plastigauge the rods and mains to see how much wear they have.
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Teardown and Rebuild
That's smart. Will do I need one to set the lash back to spec. On a side note just so everyone knows the vp44 gear CAN NOT jump a tooth with the front timing cover on. I tried every way I could to get it to jump without taking it outside the cover and it is impossible. So if you need to rotate the engine while the VP is out there are no worries there.
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Teardown and Rebuild
The head is going to get worked over either way. I'm hoping to have a quote by the end of the week for all new valves, seats, guides, seals, and having the surface decked. I may just go buy a dial indicator because I'll need it to replace the syncros in the trans.I'm not sure how easy it will be to test it with the engine one its end!
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Teardown and Rebuild
Turbo, intercooler pipes, and intercooler were spotless. The outlet of the turbo is spotless as well, so I know it's coming down the valves.
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Teardown and Rebuild
I got further into it today. I took the valves out, and the exhaust all look great. The intake on the other hand look HORRIBLE. It looks like oil has be leaking past the seals pretty badly. There is a pretty good amount of carbon build up on the valves and in the head. I don't thing this could cause what you guys heard in the video, but does anyone think it's possible?? The cam looks good. No abnormal wear on it. The damper is shot. The rubber is starting to work its way out, so I'll need a new one. The crank has a small groove in it so I'll be installing a sleeve while I'm at it. The clutch looks good although it only has 19k on it. There were a few hot spots, but I'm guessing that's from the couple times it spun. Pulled the damper and all of the front accessories. Front main was leaking pretty bad, and the front cover had some seeping as well. Head on the bench with most of the external parts romoved. Head surface.... Oil around the intakes. I looked it over really close today and didn't see any cracks though Set it up on end to get to the bottom end. Pulled the cam. Doesn't look like any abnormal wear. I finished pulling the front cover, then bagged it for the night. I found one small shard of metal in the pan, but I have no idea where is would go. It's really thin and small. Tomorrow I'll get a picture of the intake valves and inside the head so you know what I'm talking about. Any more ideas? Could bad valve seals / guides cause that noise?
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Teardown and Rebuild
Springs, yes but the pushrods.... I know who makes Hamilton pushrods and it isn't Hamilton. I can get them cheaper from the manufacturer!
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Teardown and Rebuild
Great thought! I'll try standing it up on end. I'm not sure what my next move it going to be.... Stay tuned.
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Teardown and Rebuild
I just figured more surface area was better.... I suppose I am wrong though! I'll probably just stick with the 24V tappets. Springs will either be 103# or 110#. It does seem faster than the valvetrain, but it is also inconsistent.... wouldn't a bearing have a constant knock no matter what? That I'm about to go take out now. I'll report back. Yes it is weird.... I'm still working on how I'm going to roll the thing over. I have most of the steel and a gear reduction to build a stand, but it's a pain. I may just lay it on it's side for now. and keep taking things apart. Thank you for your input. I'm heading out this morning to pull the clutch and front acessories. I may also pull the valves to see if there's anything in there.
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Teardown and Rebuild
Knock miss, whatever the heck it is. It's hard to describe. Hopefully that video is a good description. I don't think bushings or bearings... everything was tight when I rolled it over by hand back and forth. No UOA. Valve lash was done multiple times since this started. No I don't own a dial indicator... yet.
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Teardown and Rebuild
Back on topic! I got a quite a ways :stirpot: Draining oil and antifreeze while removing intercooler boots and pipes Pulled tires and set the front end on the ground, then removed radiator, intercooler, VP & injection lines, PS & vacuum pump, manifold & turbo, APPS, all electrical connections and electrical holders (There were a ton!), and starter. Attempted to chain up with the valve cover on - No go Removed valve cover, then chained up, lifted the weight off and removed the motor mounts. Half way out! - That's my brother / helper Finaly got it out of the truck. Lots of crap to clean up! Got it flipped around and set up on blocks. Getting ready to remove the head. Head off! Head Bore - Cross hatching looks good and there is no lip up at the top! Very good news. It looks almost new at 188k Block So that's as far as I got tonight. As far as I could tell the pistons look perfect, the bores look perfect, and I did not see any cracks in the head or valves. Also turning it over by hand there aren't any rod bearing problems. So at the moment I'm still stumped as to why the think is knocking. Maybe a cam lobe is worn?? Either way the cam will be coming out soon. If you have any idea what the knocking is post it up!
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Teardown and Rebuild
Mechanical Engineering at the Colorado School of Mines. The price of everything now is crazy! The prices just keep going up.... I've got 3 years done and will graduate with my bachelors next spring, then back to school for one more year to pick up my masters. That school will be making a lot of money off of me!
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Teardown and Rebuild
Whew you guys went crazy while I was out working! Bill, I was just wanting to reiterate that this isn't a half way job. If something needs replacing I will do it, but while I'm paying over $31,000 per year to go to school I can't afford to do a full engine rebuild. I have no hard feelings, and I hope what I said didn't offend you. AH64ID, I thought the CR tappets were larger than the 24V?? I would definitely like to go with the larger of the two! The motor is out now and I will be posting pictures of everything shortly!
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Teardown and Rebuild
T case, drivelines, skid plates Trans After everything is out Bumper removed. Lunch time. Considering we started at 9 and it's now 12 I think we've made pretty good time!
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Teardown and Rebuild
The truck is NOT getting sold. I just don't see the point in replacing what isn't broke. If I had the money I'd put all new parts in it, but I just can't. Nick I'll let you know when we actually tear into it!