thefox311

Hey guys, need a lil help here. So i had to do some serious tear down of the truck to get to my tappet cover. I found that it was leaking back when i did my rear main crank seal last time i was underneath the truck. Needless to say to get to the tappet cover you have to pull the injection pump and lines 1,2, and 4 so that you can get the vp44 out of the way. I was very careful when i was removing the vp44 to make sure that I didnt drop the key down the timing cover. I aligned the key-way with the TDC mark on the top of the timing cover so that wouldnt happen. Removed the pump and went about my business. On re-installation i put the pump back in made sure everything was aligned and bolted the vp44 down they way you are supposed to. needless to say after I started it up i pop a p0216. I didn't move the gear around while it was disassembled either. Anybody have any ideas if I should pull the pump again and verify if things are lined up that way or should I go about pulling the timing cover to check and see whats going on? BTW this pump was good before I began the work. Any help would be appreciated.

So guys I havent been on here in long time. Did some searching through the forums for some info about the quickest way to replace that rear crank seal. I can see from the Service manual there are two ways of doing it, one is to remove the transmission (in my case a nv5600 and transfer case) all the way down to the bell housing and do it from there. The second method is to remove the bell housing completely (8 bolts) and then pull the crank shaft oil retainer. Im thinking I need to do the second method since Im in need of a new pan gasket as well. Little extra time involved since I would have to remove the starter and misc parts, but I think it would be worth it since im in that deep to just do it. All this stems from, neglecting to change it out when I did the clutch at 200,000 miles (currently have 231,954 miles on it). Lol at the time I thought, eh its barely wet (lol now I kick myself in the *** for not changing it). Now it leaks like a pig, regardless it has to get done now. Do you guys think I should end up replacing that clutch since there has been oil flinging around in there? The clutch isnt slipping nor chattering and no issues with it thus far. Thoughts on the clutch and are there any gotcha's I need to know about before performing such a task. I kinda figure if i need to do the oil pan Im going to have to go the second route and pull the bell housing to do it are there any need to knows about removing that oil pan as well? It looks like a tight fit between the cross member and the middle of the pan. And i see that Moparman uses the cummins gasket sets, where did he go about getting those from? I really dont feel like getting raked over the coals for gaskets from the dodge dealer. Any help would be awesome, thanks guys! MoparMan the site looks awesome man keep up the good work! -thefox311

It's really hard to tell what the problem might be without being there in person. So you are saying you are having no problems whatsoever on shore power on any of the outlets using the juicer? Maybe it's not the power at all and possibly the juicer itself? Shooting from the hip have you tried your parents juicer? To try and compare the two?

Just curious is that meter reading DC AMPs or AC amps. So if my calculations are correct at max draw AC amps at 8.3 amps it should read 83.3 amps DC. Im just double checking my math here.

So looking at that book there I guess my truck is a HO? heck I didnt know that haha shows how much i pay attention! But seriously though I thought the HO's had a valve cover that indicated so. Mine has the NV5600 so HO?

Need to correct what i posted before, Did a little looking around at the user manual for this bugger and found that this unit is rated at 1000 watts continuous (w=va 1000/120=8.5 amps). http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Power-Inverters/Xantrex-Inverters-Hardwired/XPower%201500%20Inverter%20Owners%20Guide%20%28975-0558-01-01_Rev-B%29.pdf something interesting that I found in there: High Surge Loads Some induction motors used in freez ers, pumps, and other motor-operated equipment require high surge currents to start. The inverter may not be able to start some of these motors even t hough their rated current draw is within the inverter’s limits. The inverter will normally start single-phase induction motors rated at 1/2 horsepower or less So you are running real close to design outputs of the inverter. But it should be ok Another tid bit of info too why it wouldnt run off the generator's was probably because the frequency was either too low or too high, or the voltage was too low and or high. You can check the frequency with a Fluke 177 DVOM or any DVOM that has a frequency option . It needs to be close to 60 hz as possible. The reason it would run off the inverter is that it makes up for the frequency error/low voltage and cleans up the output of the 120 vac My dad is a freak (course so am I since it's what I do for a living) when it comes to setting up his generator's for his rv. (That's what i get for having an electrical engineer for a dad) He adjusted his Under load and the best load to use while adjusting those parameter's is the AC Unit. Anyway under load adjust the engine speed while checking the frequency to get it to as close to 60 hz as possible +/- .3 hz. once you get it close check the voltage on one of the outlets and it will should be really close to 120 vac. And under no load voltage will a little high as well as frequency. But too high a voltage and or frequency will damage appliances. So find a happy medium and stick with that. And i see in your original post that there is a transfer relay in line with the AC. Which totally makes sense why it wouldn't run off generator and why it would run off the inverter. But anyways I hope I was able to help out your situation there! PS i did check out your install on a previous post very nice! Wish i had one in my trailer, need to install a second battery in parrallel so I dont suck my batteries dry in 2 days. Kids love to leave the lights and the pump on at night haha. Hope this helps or at least you know what to look for now

Could be a possiblity of voltage drop on the outlets further away from the inverter. But with 14 awg solid copper there shouldn't be much drop. NEC states on a 15 amp circuit load rating must not exceed 80% during normal run on start up most items that pull 12 amps will go a little over 15 then drop back down to 12 or so. w=va (watts=volts*amps) 1500/120= 12.5 amps so that inverter can only carry 12.5 amps peak load. I would bet that your juicer runs real close to 12.5 amps on start up. Kinda hoky but put a 120 HVAC cap in line with the juicer and i bet it would start up every time oh I scrolled back up and lets see 850 watts is running so that would be 7.5 amps when you have it on high. 10 micro farad cap would probably do it for ya. But from what it sounds like in your post it the current capacity differences between the inverter and the shore power. its 15 amps on shore and 12.5 on inverter. So i think that is what your problem is and too much draw to start it up the further you get from the power source. Hope i didnt confuse you too bad i just go off on tangents. -Cameron

P550550 Fuel Filter Water Separators Product Attributes Outer Diameter: 3.11 Inches (79 MM) Thread Size: 3/4-16 Length: 5.59 Inches (142 MM) Gasket OD: 2.76 Inches (70 MM) Gasket ID: 2.48 Inches (63 MM) Efficiency 95%: 20 Micron Efficiency Test Std: SAE J1985/J1488 Emulsified H2O Efficiency: 90.00 Percent Application Note: Not for Marine Applications Primary Application: CUMMINS ENGINES Price Type: F Packaged Dimensions Gross Weight in Pounds: 0.9 Country of Origin: US (United States) Other Item Information NMFC - USA: 069100-06 HTS - USA: 8421.23.0000 Division: Engine and Vehicle Direct from the donaldson website

whew Im ok then.... I do only about 10,000 a year anyway and usually when i change the filter I change that out as well since im at it.

Heck how often do you need to change the water seperator? I havent changed it in a year and half. but I drain it tho about every couple months....

ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=161239797860&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en

Ok just curious! Thanks

But lol where are you getting them from?

Does anybody have a preffered dealer that they use? I found one dealer here where you can get the FF5617 for 12$ and the FS19768 Water Seperator for 30$ http://partstore.caseih.com/us/ValleyImplement/filters-c1297.html Was just curious where the vast majority of air dog users are getting their filters?

This last time towing it got to about 210-212 going up 6% grades. But you know the stock gauge isnt very accurate, but definetly cooler than before. Before it would hit the end white line before the gap between white and red. Mind you this last time i towed I had the new clutch on and "hosed out" the radiator. And as far as the A/C system it has had dye in and still has it. Thats the problem though I never see any dye leaking any where. Lol I even bought a UV light to try and find it and still nothing from the pipes, compressor, drier/accumulator, or condensor. But normal motor oil lights up pretty colors!

Sorry it took me so long to get back with you all.Well it just seems my truck is having problems with the AC and keeping it cool, the fan clutch i have in there is an after market from Rock Auto. Sounds like a Jet for the first couple miles and then shuts off. But you would think living in phoenix, AZ that in stop and go traffic it would kick in, but it rarely does even with the a/c on. Towing my trailer it comes on and never goes off. Once i drove all the way from Payson to phoenix and it never shut off, roughly 85 miles some hills and lots of down hills. I have heard rumors that maybe 1 in 3 were good from the factory. My stock fan clutch gave up the ghost maybe 4-5 months ago and I can remember that fan clutch worked correctly at stop lights and while towing but knowing what the dealer wants for a fan clutch i opted for the cheaper parts. Ever since I got rid of that mopar fan clutch it just hasn't acted the way it should. At least from what i can tell. I will be pulling the radiator and intercooler to give them a thorough cleaning ( will post some pictures here )because after looking i can see the grime build up from the oil puke bottle. And while im at it i will do Mopar Man's mod for the puke bottle. As for the A/C it hasn't been right since I bought the truck which was back in 2007. I had it charged right after i bought it, which was in may, and that only lasted till mid august of that year. Every year since i just recharge it before the summer months hit. It was quite convenient to have friends that worked at car dealers haha. But now I want the darn thing to hold a charge longer than six months. I replaced the high side line, low side line, reciever dryer and thats it so far. I only have three components left (compressor, evap coil, condensor coil) to replace before I will have a completely rebuilt ac plus the switches. But wanting the a/c to work correctly is what is driving me to really spend some quality time trying to figure this out. i replaced the stuff mentioned above in May and here it is August and it's empty. If i were a betting man i bet the evap coil is bad (dont see any oil/dye coming out the drain tube tho). I bought gauges to check my problem, haven't used them yet since I already know it's low and or out of 134a and blowing 85 deg air, and compressor cycles a lot. When i disassembled the system, I did not see any black death. So right now it looks like process of elimination. But probably I will replace the condensor and evap at the same time. So what are your guy's thoughts? Should I go ahead and replace that cheapy fan clutch and put the mopar stuff back on? and am I headed down the right track as far as the ac and cooling system?-thefox311

So has anyone done any serious towing with the electric fan conversion kits that are on the market? I was thinking these would probably be the way to go since the viscous fan clutches aren't all that great. Just wondering it was worth the 650$

For some reason on this post i didnt get to see your video that you had posted earlier. Dont mind me just didnt have all the info! Seems like you have it under control!

after reading this sounds like i need to pull mine out and do the same....will have to be a weekend project at my father inlaws for this tho.

Really sounds like to me the spider gears are toast (those are what allow your wheels to spin at different speeds while turning)...Pinion and Ring gear are still functional other wise the whole thing wouldn't turn. Either way sounds like time to rebuild the rear end. Or might be quicker to find a wrecked truck and buy it from a junker. Just my - - - Updated - - - Easiest way to test this as well is put it up on jack stands and put the transfer case in neutral and see if your tires will spin opposite of each other or they spin the same direction.

Yikes! !importance of warranty card! :banghead:

Here's some background: aprox 3 months ago before the hot season in Phoenix, AZ i wanted to get my ac working again so I replaced the liquid line and suction lines along with the orifice tube due to the leaky ball type valves in the lines. And i had noticed at the time my fan clutch was free ballin... so while I was at it i replaced the fan clutch with a 89 dollar Hayden fan clutch from Rock auto. Three months later into the hottest part of the year, that fan clutch engages at cold engine start up drive a couple miles and disengages. At the same time I have my ac running and it get's cold about 45-48 deg while moving. Come to a stop light and the darn ac climbs to almost 80. Mind you sitting at a stop light for 5 min in 110 deg ambient temp you would think the fan clutch would engage but it does not. Seems to only engage when im hauling my trailer. Needless to say I went and bought another new fan clutch from NAPA. I have had two of these things due to the fact they will never disengage. Im at the point of telling napa to shove these things cause im tired of changing fan clutches in the hopes that it will work. For now im going to put the Rock auto fan clutch back on because it would at least cycle and get my money back from NAPA. Forgot to mention that i did take the time to clean my radiator fins, inter cooler, and condenser coils to make sure air flow wasn't the issue. Im at a loss here why i cant get this fan clutch to cycle right. Im almost ready to put a pusher fan on the condenser to see where that gets me since they are roughly 40-50 bucks. As for the compressor cycling.... cycles like it should at idle, and anything above 1100 rpm and it cycles real fast making my air temp rise by 5 deg or so. Course you can hear the fan clutch roaring away since I have the napa clutch on that has never disengaged and i installed it two days ago. With the Rock Auto Clutch compressor will totally disengage due to high head pressure. So lol any idea's out there?