edcasey

The 0216 indicates a mechanical failure in your injection pump that doesn't allow it to advance adequately. It will need to be replaced with a remanufactured pump to operate properly. The injection pump has no serviceable parts. I drove for nearly a year with a P0216 but had intermittent dead pedal and eventually hard starts until it died all together. Unfortunately, there is no way to know how long it will take for your pump to died completely. It could be tomorrow or a few months from now. I see your already experiencing dead pedal from your original post. I see you are installing a fuel pressure gauge. You definitely should make sure you have proper fuel pressure before installing an injection pump. You don't want to damage a new injection pump with low pressure. The pressure should never go below 10 psi even at wide open throttle.

I converted my 3500 to SRW about 4 years ago. I've included a note about the conversion in my signature on several forums. I get 1 or 2 PM's a week from people asking questions about doing an SRW swap. Back when the price of diesel was over $5.00 a gallon, I was getting 3 to 5 a week. So I thought I would post a write-up I did a few years ago. I don't mind answering PM's but it's easier just to reply with a link. The conversion is actually very simple. As far as the front end goes, just remove the wheel spacers and install a set of rims from a 2500. You'll also need lug nuts. I bought a set of 32 lug nuts from Ebay that were used but in perfect shape for $20. The dealer wanted $8.00 for each one. I bought four used wheels off of a Ram 2500 from Craigslist for $200. The rear end is just as easy. Pull off the dually wheels and install the 2500 wheels and lug nuts. The only other thing that I had to do was shorten the wheel lugs because they are too long to allow the wheel center cap to fit. You could change the lugs to 2500 lugs but I just cut them with a cut-off tool and then removed the lug nuts to clean-up the treads. It only took 10 minutes and the treads are perfect. The dually axle on the Dodge is about 4 inches wider than a 2500 axle. Most people assume it is narrower but it's actually wider because of the large offset of the dually wheels. I know 4 inches sounds like a lot but it's not noticeable. It's fine for stock width wheels and tires but if you are going to run wider tires you might want to consider a SRW axle. The only other difference from a stock SRW is the size of the brake hubs. It's not a functional problem but you do see more of the brake drum. The dually axle's rear brakes shoes are wider than the SRW axle. Combine the wider brake shoes with GM brake cylinders and the rear brakes become very strong. The harder part of the conversion is the bed. You could take off the dually fenders and fix the bed but it would take a lot of body work. If you look at the attached photo you'll see several small holes that the bolts went through, a two inch hole for a marker light, a large hole for the fuel fill and a portion of metal removed above the wheel opening. I found it much easier to replace the bed. I got very lucky and found a bed and tailgate on Craigslist for $300.00. It had one very small dent and the paint was fading on the passenger's side but that wasn't a problem for me because I needed to paint it to match any way. There were just a few other things I had to do. I had to cut a few inches off of the rubber fuel fill hose which was done with a razor knife. I also had to swap the fuel fill inlet because of the large hole needed for a diesel fuel pump nozzle (the srw bed came from a gasser) but that was only 4 small screws. The last thing was to extend the rod that lowers the spare tire. It needed to be about one inch longer. Also, there is a grounding strap between the bed and frame that needs to be removed with one screw. Also worth noting, the dually tailgate and SRW tailgates are not identical. If I remember correctly, the SRW tailgate is wider at the bottom so you should get a SRW bed with a good tailgate. I sold all the old parts. I actually made more than enough money to pay for my paint job and some body work. The dually fenders are a real money maker. Dodge wants a lot for them. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=31&pictureid=248 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=31&pictureid=257 Truck as a dually. I also removed the tripod mirrors. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=31&pictureid=247

I think it is either a draw from the grid heaters cycling on and off or the voltage regulator, which is in the PCM, isn't powering the the alternator field intermittently. Have you checked to see if the grid heater relays are are closed when the voltage falls?

We're all friends here. Nobody doubts your integrity. :thumbsup: Sounds like Jim is in some trouble. No matter what the pictures are still cool. Thanks for sharing.

I think someone might be pulling your leg. I got an email on Dec. 21st with the same two pictures. If you do a Google search for " Snowmobile trail closed due to traffic jam", you'll find it posted in many places.

:lmao2: Don't even get me started!!!!

I emailed them. They emailed me back the next day. Service@linear-logic.com

Ya...the warranty really sucks. "Linear-Logic will repair this product with new or rebuilt parts, free of charge, for a period of 1 year from the date of original purchase in the event of a defect in materials or workmanship."Repair? Why not replace a brand new product? I do remember your name from CF. I spent many years (decades actually) in sales where they drill into your head how important it is to remember names.Hey...I didn't know Michael has Premium membership?

Hey CJ, I don't know if you saw my thread on my ScanGauge on this forum http://forum.mopar1973man.scangauge problem but I'm having similar problems. Mine doesn't like to show MPG, Water temperature and RPM. It does it on my wife's truck too. If I unplug the wire from the ScanGauge (not my truck) and plug it back in it usually starts to work. I also did a thread on CF and someone over there also has trouble with data not showing in the gauge mode. Also, I'm stilling having a problem with the display showing black boxes. I've already sent this back to them once to have that fix. They seem to have fixed the problem I had with it not connecting. Their warranty is disappointing and like I said before, if I had read it I wouldn't have bought the ScanGauge. I blame myself for that. There selling them through Autozone and JCWitney now. I wonder how many they'll get back for the same problem.

Well...the second time I took my truck out with my newly repaired ScanGaugeII and the display problem showed back up. It does seem to connect now but sometimes I get no data in certain gauge fields (mpg and FWT). If I unplug it and plug it back in it starts to work. The display problem is intermittent so I was afraid they would test it and the problem wouldn't show up so they would just ship it back to me. I don't know what they did because they sent me no paperwork. I honestly expected them to send me a new one seeing it was less than a month old. I should have read the warranty before I bought it. I know better than to assume. If you haven't read it:"Linear-Logic will repair this product with new or rebuilt parts, free of charge, for a period of 1 year from the date of original purchase in the event of a defect in materials or workmanship."So I buy a $169.00 gauge and it has problems out of the box and they are going to fix it with "new or REBUILT parts". Nice.I'll call them tomorrow. I just don't need the headache. Just be aware if your planning on buying one of these that they don't have a replacement warranty even if it's a day old.Again, I blame myself for not reading the warranty. If I had, I would have bought something else.

Nice job!! So the mounting bracket that comes with it wont work on a short bed?

Just be sure you use a pre-filter before the Airtex. It's a roller vane pump and they will fail quickly if they are pumping fuel with large particles in it. I know most people don't bother but that probably explains why some people get a few years out of them and some just a few months.

Live Oak the system you are talking about is actually the The Vulcan Pusher Pump system http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-II-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/vpps9804.htm which sell for $115.00 plus $9.99 for the Airtex adapter. The Big line kit is $33.99 and connects the fuel filter canister to the injection pump. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-II-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/ffvpu.htm.

Wow...You must be psychic! I got home a little while ago and it was in the Mail box. I installed it and took it for a ride and it seemed to work. I did have to unplug the cable from the Scangauge once to get the water temperature to work. The display was an intermittent problem so I'll have to wait to see if that's okay. It looks like they repaired it and sent it back. I was hoping for a new one because that one never worked right and was only a few weeks old. I can't complain about the turn-around time. It was exactly two weeks and it had to make a 5,000 mile round trip. I'll keep you guys updated.

Hey guesswho has Fleetguard come out with a new filter for the AD. That would be good to hear. I've installed a lot of these and people are always asking me about the filters. Last I heard the best filter was a Fleetguard FS5613/FF100-3 which is a 5 micron absolute. Maybe 3 microns is the nominal rating?

The Fuel Boss pump has a two year warranty and the rest of the system is one year (bypass, hobbs switch, fittings, LED...). I'm not sure about the MITUSA pump. Both Opie and Richard have great customer service. I've dealt with Richard many times. Everyone I talked to says the same about Opie. When I was looking at mechanical pumps, I PM'ed everyone I could find who was running one and couldn't find a single complaint. I agree with you about the warranty. It's too bad they don't offer a longer warranty so they could compete better with the high end electric pumps "lifetime warranty" (which is actually a lifetime limited express warranty). Than again, Opie has so many orders that he stopped taking them weeks ago until he can get caught up.

Hood Latch you said you don't plan to hot rod your truck so I would go with the Raptor 100. It will be much more volume than you need and if you run a Baldwin PF7977 in the stock filter canister you will have the same particulate filtration as the Airdog (both are 5 micron actual) and much better water separation.

I helped my cousin put in a Fuel Boss. He uses the stock Carter pump for starting. It only runs for about 2 seconds and then automatically shuts off. The first time I took it for a test drive it really freaked me out. He has the bypass shimmed to 13 psi at idle. The freaky part is when you floor it the fuel pressure goes up to 19 psi instead of going down. I can't think of a more reliable pump motor than a Cummins Diesel. I also like the redundancy. If you were to have a problem with the mechanical pump, there's a Hobbs switch that automatically engages the electric pump. The truck doesn't miss a beat. There's also a red led that lets you know the electric pump is running. If I ever buy another CTD, I will install one of these.

If I tried to burn coal here for heat, I'd get a big fat fine for Christmas. The crawl space under the old part of my house has a bunch of coal leftover from when a previous owner burned it decades ago (that's where my wife gets it...I mean Santa gets it). I'd be only to happy to gift it to someone who can use it. Maybe that would get me off of the naughty list.:confused:

I got a stocking full of coal...again.

There is actually a method to their madness. The IOD fuse powers the items that can drain the battery when the ignition is off (Ignition off draw). The fuse holder is made so that you can pull the fuse out far enough to disconnect it without actually removing it. New vehicles are shipped to the dealer with it pulled out to save on battery discharge. The dealer is supposed to push it back in when the vehicle is prepped for delivery or test driven. If you ever need to store your vehicle for a prolonged period (Dodge says 20 days), you can pull the fuse out so your battery wont drain as much as it would with the fuse engaged.

See what happens when you don't read all the replies. I completely missed that you have a pressure lock. Thanks Wild.

These codes are actually related. The auto transmission relay is closed by the same circuit from the PCM that also powers the alternator field. Take a look at this diagram. The PCM uses this circuit to regulate the alternator and close the transmission relay. So you could have a problem in the alternator, wiring from the PCM, the PCM, or a trans relay short. You will need to test the circuit for voltage to find the problem. When the transmission relay doesn't close, the overdrive solenoid, governor solenoid and torque converter lockup solenoid aren't going to energized. The transmission is than in limp mode and will "stick" in 3rd gear. Driving the truck in limp mode will cause wear or damage to your transmission. You wont experience limp mode if the 1765 is intermittent. If your transmission does go into limp mode, you can remove the relay and use a jumper wire between slots 30 and 87 as a temporary fix. I carry a jumper wire with male spade connectors in my tool box just for this purpose. It saved me a tow bill last year.

Thanks for the questions Mopar1973Man. Fuel pressure is at 16psi at idle and 14 at WOT but I'm not a WOT type of driver. It actually went up .5psi when I changed to the new filter setup. I only run one pump at a time. The second pump is there for redundancy. I could run both at the same time if my truck was hot rodded but one is more than enough for the mods I have. I bought two of them from a local parts store that I've been doing business with for years. That was 4 years ago and they cost me $89.00 a piece. He would sell them to me now for $97.00. They sell them on Ebay for $115.00 to $119.00 shipped. I can't tell you for sure what the life span is because I haven't had one fail. The one I have been running for 4 years has just over 87,000 miles. I went with Walbro because I worked as an RV dealership service manager and many of the new camper delivery driver's were using them in their trucks (95% of which are Dodge CTD's). That was long before I heard of CF or other fuel systems. I've seen many posts where other Walbro 392's have failed fairly quickly but I think the big problem they had was most never ran a pre-filter. I think relatively large debris in unfiltered fuel will damage a 392. I could be total wrong on that but it would explain why mine has lasted so long compared to some others. With my old system, I ran a NAPA 140 micron in-line screen that I had to change twice because they became clogged enough to drop fuel pressure. I now run a 20 micron fuel / water separator as a pre-filter.

I'm not sure if my setup would help you too much but I'm happy to show it to you. I used two Wix filter bases. These bases each have two inputs and two outputs. I plumbed the Walbros to the bases. The first filter base has a 20 micron fuel/water separator installed that removes water and acts as a prefilter for the pumps. It's a filter that is made to be used on the suction side of the pump so it doesn't have a lot of restriction. The second filter is a 2 micron (actual) filter. The reason I was able to make this work is the Walbros have a built in check valve so if you don't put power to them no fuel will flow. So I don't need any shut-off valves or external check valves. This is a diagram I made when I was putting the whole thing together. I suck at graphics programs so it's not very good. This is a view looking straight down on the truck. Here's a few pics of what it looks like but it's hard to get a good picture where it's mounted. I removed the stock filter canister because it had a very slight leak. I thought I would have to re-shim the bypass to maintain the 15.5 psi because I now have a 20 micron and 2 micron filter where before it was just a 10 micron. The funny thing is with this new setup my pressure actually rose to 16 psi. I guess the stock filter canister is more restrictive than I estimated. Ed