GSX455

I have a different problem with the oil pressure gauge. I had no oil pressure, replaced the sending unit (Cummins part) and still no movement on the gauge, so maybe the problem is in the wiring harness? Thanks for any suggestions.

well, the bracket for the clutch and brake wore out, and the gas pedal is also attached. The steel bar wore into the aluminum bracket so far it made the clutch sit so low, you could not get the tranny into reverse, Only Dodge would design a rotating assembly that will wear out with steel against the cast aluminum? Amazing that instead of a C clip or cotter pin, Dodge has this plastic clip that takes 4 prongs that will not stay so you have to cut one prong to get the accelerator pedal off. So, to remove the gas pedal you have to buy a new plastic clips, $9. <img src="http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm16/polymersci/clutch%20bracket_zpsup8yx1np.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo clutch bracket_zpsup8yx1np.jpg"/></a>

How do you remove the gas pedal on a 2001 2500? There is a plastic retainer, with no screws or tabs to press. I'm ready to use a Sawzall and hack away. Thanks for any help

thanks to all who replied, I also noticed the vacuum pump is spewing oil, so does this mean a new pump, or can the seals be replaced?

My truck has another problem this week. HVAC is stuck on defrost, the vacuum pump produces vacuum, and all the hoses are connected. How much vacuum should I be seeing at the vacuum distribution plugs near the heater output? there is some oil leakage through the vacuum pump, so is this causing poor vacuum?

I have a leak and loosing power steering fluid. I changed the pump, but I'm leaking fluid frowim the hydraboost near the vacuum brake booster. Is this an O-ring I can replace or does this mean a re built hydraboost unit from NAPA? I also have no vacuum for switching the defrost and vent, is this related? Thanks for any suggestions

Thanks guys, I was just worried about the VP44, those tend to be finicky. Steve

I had starting problems after a clutch switch went bad, I was out of town for work and the vehicle sat for a few months. I just put in fresh oil and added cetane supplement to a mostly full fuel tank. should I drain the old fuel and get fresh fuel? First time it has started since October. Thanks and sorry if this is a dumb question

OK, It's the alternator fuse, but why would I have lights, horn, power windows? What about the instrument cluster? could that have gone bad, or had a bad connection? I could remove and clean connections? Or is it the alternator fuse? Thanks

Ok, I installed a new battery, and that did not help. I checked the relays under the hood and all ignition related had good continuity, or low resistance. Also I noticed the leads to the power distribution box from the alternator had 0 volts. No power through the 140 A relay, but the headlights work(?). Hron works, but not the radio. I jiggled, looked for loose connection under the dash., this truck is dead, none of the dash lights work, Could it be the instrument cluster is bad? I checked the fuses by the parking brake. the 10A cluster A had 12 volts, but cluster B had 0 volts, and no power to the wipers, radio. I I checked the ignition switch and the resistance was < 1 Ohm on pins 2 ands 7 for start. I've reached the point where I just want this truck to run so I can sell it. Thanks for everyone who posted.

Could this be something under the dash? I was trying to disconnect the clutch switch and then it was dead, no dash, no power, no wts light, etc. I 've jiggled al of the wires connectors the parking brake, even checked the fuse panel under the hood. For the dash to go completely dark, and the power windows work, and the headlights work, is there a particular fuse of connector that would cause there to be no response from the ECM?

I 've had some clutch interlock problems getting my truck started, I wiggle the switch on the clutch pedal shaft and the truck will start. Today I went to start it, and nothing. I wiggle the switch and then hop in to start it. No lights on dash, no odometer, Battery has plenty of juice, because I just drove it I checked the instrument panel fuse, and its fine. I know my ECU harness had a few shorts, could that be the cause? . Also, while we are on the topic, can I use an automatic engine wiring harness on a 5 speed truck? I would really like to drive the truck instead of work on it all the time. Appreciate any help folks can offer. Thanks

Thanks for the replies. It would go into gear when the engine was off, but not if it was running. but it would not start with the clutch depressed when in gear. OK, I re-installed the clutch housing. I placed the fork on the pivot ball, and installed the hydraulic slave, see link below, is this okay? I have the throwout bearing up against the clutch. This should help me get the fork to stay in place when I re-install the tranny. Any advice is appreciated, and wish me luck in getting that heavy thing lined up again. https://www.dropbox.com/s/hjsabqjbsm7y54u/2014-09-16%2020.58.14.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/x713zgk1vcmsen6/2014-09-16%2020.54.50.jpg?dl=0 Thanks

I just had my NV4500 rebuilt and installed it with the bell housing on, put on the slave cylinder, clutch felt a little loose go to put into gear and it will not go into gear Clutch goes almost to floor before I feel pressure What could have been misaligned ? I felt the splines go in, and the drive shay would turn, etc Any suggestions would be appreciated Thanks

I was almost done the NV4500 install, and the spring clip for the clutch fork and ball came out right as I was sliding the tranny in Do you have to have that clip in for the clutch fork to work? Thanks

Help! I'm trying to install my rebuilt NV4500 with the bellhousing on the engine. I'm on gravel, and can only raise vehicle on jack stands, the fork and the throw-out bearing will NOT stay in place. I've removed the bellhousing and zip tied the open end of the fork, where the hydraulic rod goes, and tried to put it back on the engine. Is there a clip or retaining ring on the other side of the fork I'm missing? If I attached the bellhousing to the trans, that would solve this, but is there another way? I do not have a lot of room for the bellhousing and I 've just moved the cross member down enough for the trans to clear I have my teenage kids to help, but the trans weighs about ~200 pounds? Any suggestions? Thanks, Steve

When you do your heater core, make sure to route the black vacuum line outside to engine compartment near the evaporator outlets. Unhook the steering wheel harness, too. The negative battery cable was corroded, a replacement cable fixed the problem.

Same problem, replaced heater core, but did not unplug the PCU, just moved it out of the way. Hooked everything back up, and went to start, something popped and now the batteries, dash light are dead. Where could the short be? did I burn out the PCU, when I hooked up the battery? I looked at the fuses and relays, and none of them was burned up. One blue relay in the drivers side fuse panel clicks a lot when I tried to jump it.

I'm not sure where to measure the CCD bus on the fuse panel. The central timer module as described on the wiring diagram. Any help would be appreciated.

dripley, Truck is running poorly, I'm not sure if it needs a rebuilt VP44, or new lift pump. the truck runs but it will hiccup at idle, and the check gauges will flash. With the mileage, I'm guessing a Blue Chip rebuilt is in my future. What do you think is better, live with the no bus on the odometer, no RPM, etc. or, replace VP44 and/or get air dog FRRP? Thanks, Steve

OK, bought the truck with high miles, 300k, and had an oil leak. Fixed the leak, wiring harness coated in oil. Cleaned the major connectors, ECM on the block, and the PCM by the firewall. Still get all of the codes; P0521 P1689 P215 causes P1698 No CCD P0562 alternator P0382 intake heater #2P0380 intake heater #1 P0215 circuit relay P1693 PCU OK, could the wiring harness be bad? Should I replace with a junkyard harness, or is the ECU bad too? Thanks, Steve