GSX455

So, I've had mixed reviews on BC. My Raptor 150 died without warning I bought it from BC , so they said it comes with a 4 year warranty, I emailed BC with my name and serial # and he never followed up, I'm not dealing with BC again. My IP from them has been doing okay, fingers crossed

OK, Super Tech TCW-3, ash less, 15 psi @ WOT. At least my VP44 survived the lift pump failing a few miles from the house.

Thanks for all the suggestions, New DDRP installed, FP gauge with isolator installed, I used a 10 weight oil, no antifreeze, but it seems to be working, 18 psi, about where I've heard recommended. I kept my Vulcan big line kit from the lift pump to the filter, but went with banjo fittings from the filter to the VP to tie in the FP gauge. And a bottle of 2 stroke oil is in there. I have the marine grade 2 stroke oil, which has corrosion inhibitors, and is synthetic.

I remember about the ULSD, which is why I run the PS Kleen Diesel additive which has lubricant, which was a little cheaper than 2 stroke oil per tank, but if the experts say 2 stroke is the way, to go, I'll switch over. Yep, got the Vulcan big line kit with the AirDog Raptor 150. Back to the P0320; The Raptor 150 did not cycle after I bumped the starter. I got an open circuit when the pump was installed on the vehicle, grounded to the block, and checked either lead. I took off the Raptor 150, and checked the leads and it failed a continuity check. I just hope the VP44 wasn't too damaged. it sputtered the last 2 miles to the house. so, the FASS DDRP is a good choice? the titanium series looked nice, until I saw the price tag. Again, thanks for all the helpful comments, this site rocks, don't know what I would do without the help I get here.

So, I hooked up my DMM to the alternator diodes but how do you check for AC noise? I did clear the codes, and I replaced the filter about 3 months, 3 000 miles ago. The P0216 code went away , but the P0230 stayed, and the sputtering came back.. I can live with a transfer pump change. Raptor 150, with about 50,000 miles on it. Does this seem a reasonable liefetime for an Airdog? Is there a better option? Thanks for the help.

So, my truck has been driving okay, then out of nowhere, it starts to surge. buck and have no power. I was about 6 miles from home, so I limp it home. it idles okay, but any acceleration and it surges. sputters, etc. Put it on the code reader, and the first one was P0216, VP44 timing, the next code, P0230, and then the companion code P1693. along with P0521, P0460, P1693. Dead VP44?! (Blue Chip) and I've only put abut 80k with a new Raptor lift pump. My fuel gauge was not working, and the float level error code with almost no fuel pressure ~10 psi.

I did the Larry B's brush kit and new solenoid about 3 months ago it has been starting great. But the battery (NAPA) has erratic voltage. It was up 15.6 volts after being on the charger and at one dropped to 8.7 V as I opened the door. Any draw, like radio, lights even the door chime will make the interior lights dim. I checked the ground terminal on both batteries and it was tight. The voltage on the battery did not drop when I tried to start it, just now. 13.5 to 13.4 Volts, but the solenoid just clicked. Thanks!

Dead again! Error codes with 3X key method P1693, P0215, P0521 Innova 3100 Code reader shows nothing.... P0215 shows fuel relay, I checked the PDC with a test light and I have power to the pin labeled 87. The relay showed 80 ohms between 87 and 86. P1693 ECM. P0521 oil pressure switch. The engine will not turn over, all the dash lights goes dead when I try to start, there is a very faint wait to start light . Even with a battery charger set to 80 amp jump mode, there is a huge drain somewhere. The grid heater wires are not getting hot either. I checked the other relays and I saw nothing major. Grid heater relay maybe? I was going to go boating on the 4th but the POST ruins another weekend. I hope y'all's trucks are doing better than mine. Thanks Have a Happy 4th of July! Independence Day! P. S. Just think folks, if not for the 4th we would have been part of the EU and Brexit

So the next problem to fix! I have been driving the truck down to 1/4 tank, and I'll fill it up. Every so often the gauge will read empty and stay empty for while, and then come up to full. No it stays on empty even after I filled it up all the way, topping off to make sure.. Is there a loose electrical connection?, or is the tank sending unit bad? I looked on the past forums and could not find anything similar,. Thanks.again folks.

I had this problem after I changed my lift pump, so I would suggest a fuel filter change, and to check the lines. Were all of the electrical connections tight?

Thanks for all of the suggestions, the bleeding and re-install went well enough. The clutch was spongy at first, but then tightened up better after a day of driving. I bought the Auto Zone slave cylinder, and it has a bleeder screw. Is it worth it for the last bit of spongy feeling to try the bleeder screw, or leave it alone, since it is driveable? Thanks!

So, I looked at the interior clutch rod to the master and it is wet with brake (?) fluid. I'll disconnect the slave from the tranny to make sure the fork is still engaged. I had my other car in running condition, so I'll install the master/slave this weekend. Thanks for all the help

So, I was towing my boat back and no issues until I went to put it in reverse. It was acting like it was stuck. After I backed in the boat, I put the brake on, unhooked the boat. Jumped back in and then tried putting it in first, with the brake on... So, soon after getting home that I tried to put it in reverse and no go. the pedal went right to the floor, and it would not go into gear unless the engine was off. Is this a broken clutch fork, stuck throwout bearing.and do I need a new clutch master/salve cylinder? I rebuilt the tranny last year, replaced the clutch 2 years ago, and now have 350,000 miles, with about 70k on the clutch. Thanks for any help GSX455

Well, I turned the key on and erased the codes with the OBDII tool; as I drove the truck, the Check Gages light, came on, I cleared while it was running, and the light is still on, maybe I bought a bad pressure sensor, or could it be the harness pigtail?

I have no oil pressure, and I have replaced the oil pressure sender unit. How do I get the Check Gauges light to turn off on the dash? Thanks, GSX455

So, I did the gauge cluster test, and the oil pressure gauge responded in the actuator test. Does this mean the oil pressure sender I bought is faulty, replaced about 2 years ago from Geno's Garage ? Could it be a bad wiring harness? The 3 pin plug on the sensor below the ECM is snugged in there pretty well. Thanks!

So, I had no oil pressure, had good oil level, truck ran fine, 2001 24 V. I replaced the oil pressure sender under the wiring harness. I still have no oil pressure showing on the dash cluster. Could it be a bad sender, or a bad gauge on the dash? I'm throwing no DTC or error codes on an INOVA code reader. I bought a mechanical, Autometer oil pressure gauge. Can I locate the sending unit on the oil filter housing, or is there a better place? I searched all of the other posts on the forum, and no one has had the problem of replacing the sender and still having no oil pressure. Thanks!

Thanks, eddielee, I looked for this under Larry B's site, and I guess it's all in the wording, trigger stud. Do you know if they stock the wires too?

Thanks IBMobile, just use JB weld or should I try high temperature epoxy? If all else fails, I could use a bolt and just epoxy it in place to make it insulating from the starter housing. The wires are too short to reach the terminal, Thanks, GSX455 .

Starter mayhem I had the slow starter turning symptoms, so I bought a brush kit from Larry B's. My solenoid post was loose and it did not have the backing nut so the wires were loose. When I tried to remove the 8 mm nut, it broke the internal wires to the solenoid. Does anyone know if Larry B sells this, or how I could repair the internal wires? Otherwise, I have to buy the NAPA rebuilt starter, as mentioned above. Happy New Year! .

Oh, thank God, I remember when I replaced my VP44, the tappet cover gasket started leaking right after I put the pump on. I was pretty mad at the truck, for no good reason. Will try it this weekend, thank for the tip. Also, has anyone used the JC Whitney dash cover replacement for $210, or just pay the extra $130 and get the new dash from Geno's Garage?

The code popped back up the next morning. I knew, but I had hoped I was wrong that the cam sensor is located behind the injection pump. So I'm not the best wrench turner, and my last injection pump R&R took about 3.5 hours. . The black smoke was there even when the tach was working and I had power, so one thing at a time. Thanks for the pic, and helpful comments.

So, the truck runs, but not great. I get the puff of black smoke when it first starts, but under acceleration, I start seeing big black smoke I've not seen before. the truck is stock, with the exception of an Airdog 150, and has about 340k miles. the injector are stock, and I've lost power recently. I'm not sure if the power loss is due to the injectors being worn, or the fact that my RPM will go to zero, and the pump misses, like an ECU connection issue. when the RPM gauge is working, the truck has power, when the RPM gauge goes to zero, and hard acceleration makes it almost roll coal, with no power. I'm hoping that its a bad connection at the ECU which puts the VP44 in some limp mode, the only DTC using an INNOVA 3100 scanner, was a P0341 code, which I cleared. Thanks for any help, GSX455

Mike, Just out of curiosity if the wires are bad to the ECU how do you remove/replace wires from the oil sensor?. These are Molex connectors, and aren't easy to retrofit from the harness going to the engine. Should I get a used harness and try to splice a good section ?

Thanks, Mopar Man!