Howie67

got the Hayden, first one would not unlock for the first 65 miles or so.. took it back second one will unlock after about 10 miles then is ok.. seems a bit stiff but will give it a bit and see it it gets better..

yea i know, but i also have to pull the head for the head gasket leak i already have so I will try to combine the two jobs and have everthing checked. I do believe that the obvious amount of oil i have coming out is not normal. I think for my piece of mind i want the motor fully inspected. I just started going back to school yesterday for the first time since 1987 on a va program. I dont need any more on my mind now that i commute in this thing for the next 15 months. As soon as i can I will get this addressed. :pray:I think i will call mine Blow Bye..

this is how much oil is coming out of the vent tube.

Ok so i did the vent relocation mod shortly after i got my truck a couple of years ago, and cleaned the mess out of the radiator. Where the tube exits is just above the front diff/ujoint. It pushes enough oil out of the pipe to completely drench my u joint and drip on the ground. I have seen some videos and it seems this is excessive. :think:I also have a headgasket leaking externally so i figured no need to just go part way. I am saving for a overhaul now. Just wanted to double check the obvious. :banghead:

bout how long till its loose like in your vid?

can anyone share how free the clutch should be cold? I saw Mikes video of the eng running and holding the fan but is that how free it is just sitting cold? Is there drag at first then it spins free? I have more drag on mine then i would feel comfortable putting anything in the fan blade. I just noticed the hub bearing is bad also..:banghead:

yea i saw that but i thought it might be a empty socket with the something still there to connect to but they are empty.... Of course

LT GRN/ BLK to 89 or is it 86 fuel pump relay located in the under hood power dist center ? no?

i was thinking I would stay away from any modules pwr just in case. I might see if i can grab powr off that relay under hood pwr dist center. Thanks for the circuit diagram.

Thanks Mike, I was unsure how the edge keeps things running with the key off. I would think you are saying fuse 9 fuel pump correct?

I have a centrifuge that uses a small air pump to push the oil up to the fitting going through the oil fill cap. I also have a edge juice that has a turbo cool down timer i have set at 300. I have the pump set to key on power from inside on the aux circuit. That is dead when the cood down is working with the key off. I was thinking i could move the power which energizes a relay for the pump to come off the alt but am unsure if the alt has a dc power signal that is only active when the eng is running so it will turn off the pump after the eng stops turning but stay on with the key off and end running so the centrifuge will continue workng while it is cooling down.Thanks, Curt

coming from under the carpet in my truck i have a 4 wire plug with 3 wires in it. So i can guess what you have and what i need is a redundant circuit for both seats separately out of the larger plug, but how to wire it in.. It might take a different harness. Perhaps someone who has done this will chime in on the conversation. --- Update to the previous post... so in the pdf version of the manual in section 8E pg1-2 it states i will need the Preimum line CTM which is only used on a vehicle with the Heated seat option. --- Update to the previous post... Ok i think i got it. C-359 and C-360 cav 7-8-9 splice to cav1-2-3 and that sould get the power working minus the heated parts? Anyone tried this?

yea i thought so.. i saw a black plug that looked like it went to some type of control module..

i have a pdf of the manual but in pdf form it is difficult to find the connector. I would like to think i can splice the new connector in but.. i think it might be a larger harness i need to replace completely. I do not have any of the controls for the heated seats and i only have the one seat. The truck it came out of had both front seats. Not sure if the circuit needs the other seat to be fully functional. I think someone has dealt with this issue. Now i know what is up with the plug. What to do next.. LOL --- Update to the previous post... Thanks for the help Dually.

this is a better pic of the wires to compare to your wires.

yea that is the plug i got on the seat.. so i guess the question now is how do i hook what i have in the truck to the seat plug :banghead:Thanks

yea i think it does have lumbar but not sure about heat. If you could look that would be great.

Ok i did a search for power seats and did not come up with what i was looking for. I Have a 2002 QC and am trying to swap in a driver power seat. I did research this and it seemed that the wiring was already there according to what i found. I added the breaker and tested the wires i have. I have a 4 pin connector with 3 wires. I think it was the red/blue that powered up with the addition of the breaker it was the only wire not used in the seat connector of the non power seat. After all that i look at the seat i have as a replacement and it has a rectangle plug with many more wires then what i have. Obviously this is not going to work. Do i need a different seat? What is the difference between a power seat that will plug into the plug i have vs the seat with the larger plug? Thanks

Ok I used a old bicycle inner tube and gave it a few wraps like some really big teflon tape. It did the trick. I can say if there are any leaks besides the boost elbow they are too small to hear. Thanks for the info guys.

Ok got the 4" pipe and cap and boot but it seem way too big.?? Before i drive back to the store, am i supposed to just clamp up all that extra space?

is there a plug on the intake side? Can you pressurize the whole system all the way to the eng without the pressure leaking through the valves? Just wondering if it is necessary to plug at the intake boot to isolate the plumbing and intercooler to bump pressure up enough to test wastegate?

Fantastic!!! That is a great upgrade the fast ratio is great the the new box has made the steering much easier and smoother. I did a shaft with it so no more clunk either. I honestly wish i would have started here before i did my ball joints to see because this has finally taken that slack feeling i had at the 12 o clock position and that same area was a "dead spot" where little or no reaction to steering input was which caused the steering to be unpredictable. Some said they did not notice the issue and I did not really until after driving it for a while. Anyway the Borgeson box and Shaft was a great thing for me and my truck.

well just dropped off the truck for the install and noted to check the alignment specs as per the above mentioned specs just in case they are not already on that.

well i just broke down and ordered a new box and shaft all i can do is hope for the best...

Since i have not read your posts on this subject I need to ask if you are referencing the borgson box that I talked about a few posts back or something else?