Howie67

thanks for the input on the borgeson box it is good to hear. I have a bit more then double your miles on my truck so i just figured do the shaft and be done with it. I think ill keep the truck and do what i can with the steering..

I have a similar issue it feels like when your are crossing the mid point there is a slight amount of play. For example when coming into a right turn i turn the wheel and get very little response and then after i turn the wheel far enough it finally seems to give too much response causing me to have to correct back. I have read that the stock steering shaft can have play which is only noticed when you crossover the center point and you will feel a small click or bump in the steering shaft. I originally thought this might be a larger bump or click but what i feel is fairly slight. I plan to replace both the shaft and steering box with the Borgeson units as soon as i get some money. I have already done the complete front end ball joints, stabilizer, 3rd gen track bar upgrade, tie rods etc.. multiple alignments and all that. According to what i read im not sure if it was a TSB or what but if you turn the wheel over center back and forth about a quarter turn or so you might feel it just as it crosses over the mid point. For me i found it easier to feel when i was rolling just slightly since turning the wheel for me was too tight at a stand still.

I was trying to use the trip and did the reset but noticed that all the settings reset every time I shut down. My mpg AVG resets to 12, my miles resets to something like 2734. I is there a battery in there that wears out? My lighter is working ok and my phone charger works with the key off so there is power at least there. Is there a different backup source for the overhead? It is nice to have the odo for trip. Thanks, Curt

Weed... They are not adjustable. I drove all around town today and I can say they have losened up a bit but still not good or I am just a little used to it. I drove by the shop and advised them to get the replacements coming. I am dropping it off monday. I am most worried if there is constant stress on the system which it feels like it could damage my p/s pump or perhaps my gearbox.

yep they did the alignment a couple of times. I supplied the tsb about the recommended specs. They are just tight. I got some things to do so I need it today but I think im going to drop it off later and tell them to fix it. Thanks. Curt

Ok got my truck back today from the shop. Complete front end. BD Adj Trackbar, all tierods, ball joints, stabilizer bracket. The steering is really tight. if you turn it it stays turned and honestly it takes a lot more effort to just turn the wheel then it did before it went in. Before it was so bad i could saw the wheel back and forth and it would make no change to the direction of the truck. So thats the story. the shop says drive it for a week and it might loosen up. The joints are Moog and i was told the drivers side is the really tight ones they actually broke 3 ball joint presses trying to get them out and finally had to cut one of them out.The question is... Is this something that happens? Is driving it going to hurt anything like the gear box? or pump? What do you guys think?

Anyone know a online source to look at the different tank fittings? I cant seem to find one that shows good pictures and descriptions. I am looking for a 2" bung extension that I can add a port to so I can run a recirculation pump on the tank to filter the moisture out before I transfer into the main tank. I plan on using the factory filter housing I removed when I installed my AD100. My plan is to "stage" all my fuel in this tank and add my 2cycle oil. This will allow me to pre filter all my fuel and get a good mix for my 2cyc. I have added a quick diag i did to give the idea. I had thought i was going to use a switch solenoid i could switch from inside but I decided to use a external pump instead so ignore that part to main tank . Thanks, Curt

yea so are you gonna share the info? you teasing everyone with info candy?? :p

well im pretty sure. It is difficult to shift need to stomp the pedal to the floor to get it to go. I tested it and was coasting with no problems but was not necessarily getting on it. I noticed a wierd feeling pulling up a silght grade in 6th. Nothing drastic just a strange feeling. I was pushing the pedal to the floor to see if i could duplicate but did not notice a jump in the tac but the accel seemed a bit weak. I stopped at my next stop and that is when i had the smell and it smelled like that for a long time. I had a doc appt and was in there for close to an hour and whe I got out it still smelled not so much but noticable. I will get the park brake checked but I just figured it was par for the course. Used truck with a gooseneck ball and it has some wear and tear. axle seals, clunk in the drive line hopefully will go away after pinion seal is done and retorqued, lift pump crapped out 3rd day i had it. did the vp since it appeared stock and did not want to risk it. supposed good tires were not so 6 new gy sa :$: :$:. Purchased online i know its a gamble looks like i came out on the short end but it was still 4k cheaper than I could have got local or even near local. Least i know now whats what. :rolleyes2:

Mike, thanks. I think from what I have read that both SB And V make a good product and both seem to have good support. How much is the stock unit rated , do you know? Just wondering how much more some of these are vs the stock unit.

Today I drove into town about an hour drive. When I got there I stopped and it smelled like I had left the park brake on. I know that was not the case just what it smelled like brake material or clutch material. So here we go .... :$: Tue the truck goes in for some service. I'm getting my rv 275s installed, valves adjusted, mbrp 4" installed, Edge Juice w/Attitude installed, front end done ball joints, track bar, etc... the works. At that time I will have the free spin kit installed I got from DLux thanks Erik . I am getting a good deal at the shop so I am letting them do the easy stuff too. I have a torn tendon in my left shoulder so im out of options for the next few months or so. So I guess I need a clutch so with the options listed do you guys think I need a DD? I don't want to blow a lot of cash on it as i just did on everything else, but if it is a absolute necessity it would not pay to try to go cheap and then pay again later. I plan to use this truck to pull a 5th wheel. I don't have one yet but am looking at them a lot. Probably around 12-15k but as there are tons available out there I would take a bigger one if i could get it a good price. I guess that should be enough info on the issue and needs. Any suggestions? Thanks, Curt

I got my harnesses but still waiting on my lights.... :confused:

Err should have read closer sorry. without the disconnect on the tube my complete front spins and the connect disconnect takes place in the transfer case. I have the front axle free spin w / warn hubs on hand ready to go just waiting on the install. I have not had the time to look yet not sure if it is a proximity switch or a what. I would guess it could be a simple adjustment. It works ok just light flickering.

Here are my harnesses for my headlight upgrade. Got from JKidd diesel autopower. Just waiting for the sport light assys now.

I decided to go with the steel one. In the bed of the truck should be ok from the elements long enough to last me. I will have diesel and 2cycle so hopefully no serious rust on the inside for a respectable period of time. I figure if i get 3+ thats good and will pay for itself by then. Thanks for all the input.

I worked at a independent shop. I was referring to some old gas tanks.

I remember a old friend who owned a radiator repair shop. When we had a old rusted factory tank that needed repair he would tank them and patch and after that apply a coating to the inside it worked really good not sure what it was made out of... perhaps it is the same stuff you are talking about. It looked light colored white/yellowish.

I am looking at the Better Built 75gal tank / tool box combo it goes for 542.xx special order from Wallmart. Working in the sheetmetal industry for the last 9 years I know that mostly alum is more likely to crack then bend then steel which is more flexible. http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200394115_200394115?cm_sp=RVC-_-Search%20Page-_-Products

Thats what i was thinking as stated.

It is power coated on the exterior. Well i might have to rethink this. Thanks for the input. how long till it could be a problem? If it could get me by for a few years or so I might be in a better spot? Think it might last 5yrs? 3? Curt

not sweating the wt just listing the difference as they are few. It is a better built and it is powder coat but only on the outside. Inside is nothing. I would think steel be a little more resilient by being able to bend instead of crack in case of impact.

Is there any problems with a steel fuel transfer tank vs a alum one? Is rust a issue? It is a 200 difference cheaper for steel and a bit more weight. Thanks

having seen batteries explode I would never suggest looking into a open cell while loading any battery.

Sooooo.... what your trying to say is No smokey burnouts Utube video upcoming??? :confused::rolleyes:but seriously.. good that you have them Im sure they can be repaired for cheaper then a new set. and no down time waiting for repairs :thumbsup:

Ok thats good.. lets get this thing situated we need some u tube video of some smokey burnouts and serious coal rollin.... :p :stir: