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scubba2003

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Everything posted by scubba2003

  1. My truck sits at 190 while cruising and goes up to 195 or so when accelerating. I wouldn't be worried about it.
  2. I always go to CarQuest. I'm not sure if you have them in the States or not.
  3. Alright so I went to the parts store this morning and did some pricing. A rebuild kit for them costs $22 which includes seals and new pins. I can buy a new caliper for $49 so all I have to do is swap it and bleed the brakes. This is canadian dollars so it might be different for you southerners.
  4. Sounds easy enough. Are they special seals or a kit you can buy or standard o-rings?
  5. I was thinking of doing this rather than buying one. Can some one tell me everything I need to do it and what is involved in doing it.
  6. Very easy to do took me all but 4 hours to do. As Wild and Free said just unbolt the column and lay it on the seat and unbolt the dash and pull the passenger side up and away. I used a bungee cord and used the passenger side oh crap handle to hold the dash up and out of the way. I'm pretty sure you can handle it MoparMan. I will look for the write up I had but cant guarantee I can find it. ---------- Post added at 06:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:26 PM ---------- Still had it bookmarked. Evaporator Core remove/replace in dodge 1500 truck 1995-01. I can pull it in 3.5 hours. putting it back takes about 2 hours, plus charging the AC, about one more hour more. Having a friend around really helps. Disconnect the battery before attempting any work to avoid a short. 1)Remove first screw on plastic door sill on both sides. (the things on top of rug where door closes)Remove kick panels. 2)Remove panel under steering wheel. 3)Remove two nuts holding up steering wheel. 4)Remove screws where windshield meets dash board. 5)Remove 2 bolts left and right under dash but against sides of car (under kick panels). 6)Dashboard is now loose and can be pulled towards the seats. 7)On right side of dash hook a wire way up to screw that holds moulding clips, or pull the dash towards the seat and put a jackstand under the passenger side. 8)The whole heater box is now visible. 9) You've got to remove vacuum lines, controls, and electric plugs from heater box. 10) Now the secret: there are 2 screws holding it to fire wall on inside (one has a ground wire attached). The other is in the upper right hand corner facing up. 11) there are 4 nuts holding it from engine side of firewall(one is behind the electric panel on the passanger side). Remove all four of these. 12) Remove heater hose clamps with a hose clamp plier. This will take time, these clips are a >edit< to get off. 13) Drain the AC freon. 14)the AC lines require a special tool that costs $9-12 at parts store. the kit has 6 plastic widgets. use the one that fits. play with an AC fitting near the radiator for practice first. 15) you should be able to pull the heater box out now. 16) Remember the dashboard is just pulled up high enough on the right to get at the heater box. 17) It is a good idea to change the heater core while doing this job. They are both in the same box.
  7. Ok so I have checked and rechecked my u joints and wheel bearings. I changed my diff oil last summer and I added the friction modifier. If I pull the diff cover off is there anything I should check or be looking for? Should I pull the gears and check anything? I did notice I have a front axle seal leaking so I believe I have to pull the gears to do one of the seals. Does anyone have a write up on this? Thanks for everyone's help.
  8. The PS fluid looks good. I'll try to explain better. In the drive-thru the wheels were already turned and I was just rolling ahead and then in the parking lot I stopped turned the wheel to the left and did circles and then stopped and turned the wheels to the right and did circles. My first thought was it had something to do with the Limited Slip.
  9. I was going through the drive-thru today and notice a shutter when creeping ahead. Once I got my order I went into a empty parking lot and did a bunch of turns and found that if I turn left (at a idle) the truck will shutter not a lot but enough I noticed. It does not do it turning right or when going at normal speeds say going around a corner. Anyone have any thoughts?