jones154

what is your guys experience with the air dogs or fass that have the air separator on them. are they worth it. do you notice any mileage improvements

As long as we are on fuel systems does anyone know where I can get a fuel level sending unit without going into an in-tank fuel pump

What all is everyone running for a lift pump

When I parked the truck it was starting to gel up almost wouldn't run so I shut it off to avoid starving the system any more....in the mean time it's been hit with some extreamly cold negative temps and some warm...we had a week where it warmed up and the hired man took it to go get some supplies from a colony 2 miles away he said it ran a little rough at first but came around...it only ran maybe 15- 20 min after that it was hit again with -30 degree temps for a while and the last week it's been getting up around 15 to 20 degrees during day and around 0 at night I know it's running and not pumping which would cause it not to have pressure or flow to the injector pump unless the pickup was running which I never had ( is my thinking right there) What are some reasons for wanting to get an after market lift pump instead of OEM

The fuel on the canister was liquid the old filter seemed like it may have had some fuel in it that was a little thick

My trucks 100 percent stock. So the only fuel pressure gauge I have is connected to the bottem of the fuel filter housing on the way from the filter to the injector pump so if no fuel is flowing into the fuel filter there will be no pressure there

So I haven't driven my my pickup in a month and a half and it was gelled up when I parked it but I put a bunch of treatment in it before I parked it and ran it for a bit and then parked it... Yesterday I put a new fuel filter in bumped the key to cycle lift pump to fill the fuel filter housing... When I did this I heard the lift pump running but no fuel was being pumped it was about 20 degrees yesterday.... The pump is only like 2 years old...has anyone had the pump run but not move fuel before or do you think it might just be gel in the lines

I just went to move truck out of the shop for the week decided to drive it down the road and see what happens beings it's 9 out today....I drive a mile down the road pushing it hard doesn't do anything so I turned back around went the mile back and then another mile past my place the only thing it seemed to do was the same thing it does when it does the surge from the AC noise (just jumps up a couple 100 rpm) did that once one the way up and once on way back....not sure why it was so extreme yesterday but I'm thinking just AC noise from alternator or maybe the APPS...still will plan hooking a code reader to it tho

Wouldn't spinning the tires throw the speed sensor code? I also know I have a diode out of the alternator could the junk diode that only acts up when I have my hid head lights and my PIAA fog lights on have caused it to do something like this when they weren't on.

I'm kinda thinking and hoping it's gelled up -11 with hardly enough treatment for 0 probably wouldn't take long if there's any water in fuel - - - Updated - - - But after typing my last post I got to thinking with a little less hoping....if my truck was parked inside for around 36 hours at 45 degrees and part or the 36 hours it was 65 plus in the shop all fluids should have been around 45 plus degrees and even at -11 with moving fluids the odds of fuel gelling up in the ten min it was out side seems very unlikely to me so I believe I am back were I started so still clueless

my 2001 has been parked in a 45 degree shop for the last day and a half. i started it let in run for a couple min. i then drove it out side where its -11 let it run for a few more min. i then babied it down the road for a mile the next mile i gave it a little more throttle about the time it was going to switch into over drive it when from 2100 RPM and dropped down to around idle RPM then jumped up to about 1800 RPM... I then turned around went back home. I got back to shop put it in park and held it at 3000 then went to 3500 RPM ran fine. i then pulled on to road and put it to the floor ran great power was all there then drops to 1000 and back up to 1500 or so take my foot off and catches back up... i pulled it into shop flipped key 3 times and the fallowing codes come up 1693, 1682, 0500. I dont have a code reader at the moment so i cant read all the codesIt acts like it might be gelling up or starving for air....I have diesel treat in it and even the ten min it was out side it shouldnt have gelled up.. i also pulled the air cleaner and it was pretty dang clean.... I also put a new fuel filter in it less the 600 miles ago... any help will be greatly appreciated thanks

Was the AC noise that causes the surge a problem in the tranny a problem in the 98 12 valves as we'll

Mine took about a 45 seconds and they didn't charge me a thing but had other dealers say anywhere from 35 to 70 bucks

Not to turn this into an hid thread but a one thing to think of before buying hids is the 2nd gen only have one bulb which is nice when replacing bulbs however makes hids kind of risky if you live in an area where it snows or have a lot of fog I would maybe recommend not getting. If u live in such a place. hids turn a little snow storm into a complete white out same with dense fog I have had several times were I just turn my clearance lights on with piaa fog lights just to be able to see. The would be perfect if you could get them only for highs and just have good lighting on lows. A lot safer on oncoming drivers too.

I have hids in my 01 I love them however the people I meet flashing there lights at me don't

So tonight i just finished a cluster gauge install and took it for a spin. get a mile down the road in over drive 65 mph starts surging shut the overdrive off stops turn it back on starts again set the cruise still did it. go back to the shop take DMM reads .041 AcVolts. so then i started thinking that im not sure if it has ever been jumpy it with my lights off so i turn on headed lights which by the way are HID'S and it reads .72 then i turn on my PIAA fog lights two sets of them and reads .93 turn everything off goes down around .041 differently ac voltage being read.first question can testing at the batteries pic up ac voltage from other sources besides alternator?My thought here is that these lights have a pack that came with them that turns up the voltage (not 100% sure thats what they do) i think they might be feeding ac current back to the batteries then feeding from there to other important components.Next question if this is really what is causing it is there a method of filtering that my work i really hate to lose the bright light (i really love them ha)Next Problem my be related to the first one more then likely is.I was driving a two weeks ago dinging starts says check gauges i look alternator gauge shows its not charging dropped to 0. I pull over shut the truck off start it back up right away alternator gauge shows its charging fine. tonight (two weeks later almost to the day) when i was finishing up with cluster gauge install i was cycling lift pump to prime the system wasnt sure the fuel pressure gauge was reading right so i was starting truck letting it run for a min then shutting it off repeated this several times. then i left it run and was checking for fuel leaks i heard the dinging again. same thing alternator gauge said 0 volts.I installed this alternator on Dec 31 2012 so coming up on a year. when i replaced the old one it was doing the same thing took the old one to a well trusted starter and alternator re-builder he tested it and it was doing some crazy things. he said hes never seen anything like this before.I would have had these lights installed about the same time period on the first alternator as i have on the second one (around a year a piece on each alternator)My question on this part is. Is it possible to be back feeding AC voltage from these lights into the battery then to alternator and causing them to fail. If so what else could i be damaging.Not sure if all the text between the questions was necessary but trying to say what im thinking and catch you guys up. any thought or input will be greatly appreciated

When will the pics of the until be uploaded was it suppose to be Monday a couple days ago at the latest or this coming weekend...the suspense is killing me

air intake temp below 32 degrees will activate 6 cylinder and below 15 activates 3 cylinder if i remember correctly

Can i get some pictures of these I would like to see what they look like to help in the decision making process of which one to get

Spent some time making calls looking for someone with a smarty to unlock the high idle and come up with nothing... So I called back the dealer that said they couldn't unlock the high idle for me last Friday and told them there full of it to put it nicely they then forwarded me to the service manager and told him the problem I was having with other employees...he comes back and says it is possible and they do it all the time...so this Friday I have to make another 90 mile round trip back to dealer to have it done I will be taking the instructions on how to unlock it with me and will not be leaving without it unlock...not very happy they didn't take the time the first time to use all the resources they have to make a satisfied customer but at least I will get it done

Just got back from a dodge dealer I went there to have my 2001 2500 high idle unlocked it is an automatic...the dealer first told me they could do it the put it in the shop... I leave and get a call from them saying that they couldn't unlock it beings it's an automatic and they claim they called Chrysler and they told them the option isn't available for the automatics....is this bs or true. Pretty sure I have seen it done before and if it can be done with a power chip why wouldn't it be possible with out one on the computer?

But with the 4th gear hunt has anyone really proven that replacing the alternator the correct cure for that problem if you have the AC voltage leak

I have a 2001 170000 miles on it doing the same thing everyone else has described. Did the AC voltage test. It charges at 14.57 volt DC range .047 vac. I replaced the alternator jan 1 2013 didn't have a problem with it until july but it was hardly driven during replacement time to may. When I start the truck the voltage gauge in the cab slowly creeps up to the 14 volt range then drops down to the low end mark repeats this process several times but after driving it and sitting at an idle it stays at 14 volts. I say this because it didn't do this before I replaced the alternator and I don't know if it's a normal thing...my main concern is if anyone has found the true fix yet... If a faulty diode is the cause for the leak what caused the faulty diode.... Will replacing the alternator be the true fix or is it putting a bandaid on the problem. (because if it's just a bandaid there are cheaper band aids)