MorePower

I bought the 4" MBRP stainless turbo back with muffler from XDP. Received with minor damage to one pipe section, emailed MBRP a pic of the damage and they shipped a new one. Installation (Feb 2017) was a breeze using original brackets. Very satisfied with MBRP quality and customer service.

Finally got around to trying the "high pressure" spring that came with the AD150. It gave me the same pressures as the original spring. So I put the original spring back in and added a .060" thick washer, ID & OD matched to the fitting. Fuel pressure is now 17 at idle, and 15 at WOT.

That 2-stroke diet was one of the first things I learned from your site. As far as enjoying my Dodge...I'm starting to. I'm definitely enjoying the Cummins part more.

Thanks, I guess I can relax a little now. I'm just a little nervous about any potential stress on my new VP44.

I let my fuel tank get below 1/4 and the "near empty" idiot light came on. Normally when I turn the key to ON, the fuel pump runs for a few seconds and gets the fuel pressure up to about 10psi. The next time I started it, the fuel pump didn't do ite pre-start run. The engine started normally and had normal fuel pressure. I filled the tank, the idiot light went OFF but the fuel pump still didn't do its pre-start run. A few starts later, and everything was back to normal. Is this a feature or a failure?

I recently installed an AD150. It came with an "high pressure" spring in the box. I stayed with the already installed spring and get 14.5 at WOT, 15-15.5 at idle. Does anybody know what pressure the extra spring would supply?

Good call!! I have to retrain the APPS because I had disconnected the batteries, right? Not because the APPS was unplugged during the VP44 replacement.

I went to a couple parts stores and got the "Oh we're not allowed to clear codes, you'll have to go to the dealer". Apparently, some people would get their CEL reset just before getting their emissions tested. You'll fail right away if the CEL is on. I explained to the guy at Pep Boys that I had a diesel and didn't have to get my emissions tested. After a little hemming and hawing, he agreed to clear the codes. And the CEL hasn't come back on.Since my current reader won't reset the CEL, I'm looking for a new one. Does anybody have any experience with the Actron CP9575 ?

I have a Davis Instrument Carchip that I've used on many ODBII systems to pull codes and reset CELs.I've used it on this truck to pull codes, but this is the first time the CEL stayed on after a repair.I'll see if a parts store can do any better with their reader, maybe its time to upgrade.Thanks.

I've driven about 200 miles and at least 20 start/stop cycles since the VP44 replacement, and the CEL is still on. I disconnected both positive battery terminals for about 5 minutes, no joy. I tried pulling the codes, and there weren't any.Any ideas? Thanks!

If you just want to make sure its not stopped up, start your engine and after a few minutes crawl under and feel the return line near the tank, it'll should be warm.

So the injectors return fuel too, cool. On the AD, its a metal "T". And the bracket isn't right angled like on Mike's install, the AD mounts parrallel to the frame.

I installed the AD150 and VP44 this weekend. Highly recommend Blue Chip Diesel's installation instructions (thanks balsip). Things went smoothly, just took a lot longer than I expected. I ran the AD150 output direct to the VP44. And used the stock return line. After starting, the original filter/water separator started leaking around the plug I put in the output hole. Kind of like the original lift pump was still working. The connector from the old pump was used to trigger the relay on the new pump, so the old pump shouldn't output anything, right?I started following the return line from the VP44 to make sure it wasn't feeding the original filter/water separator and found a tee. One side goes to the fuel tank, the other side goes into the rear of the engine head. Anybody know what this is?BTW - Truck running way better than when I bought it last Dec. First time I've seen the north side of 2800 rpm.

Not yet. Just checked UPS Tracking, parts should be here tomorrow! I'll let you know how it goes.

I ran mine with occasional P0216 for 8 months (9K miles) before it quit, and it quit fast and hard. Went from running fine to not starting at all.

The full AD. I hadn't seen the Raptor before. Would have saved some $$. --- Update to the previous post... I'd like to keep the factory fuel canister. Did you connect the AirDog output to the canister and then keep the original tube between the canister and VP44? --- Update to the previous post... I actually ordered the VP44 from Blue Chip (they take Discover). And Chip tells a good story. I'll definitely use those instructions, they're clear and make sense. I ordered the other stuff (AD150 and gauges) from Vulcan. Should have everything here by the weekend.

I've only rebuilt the dana 44 on my old f150. If the 60 is as much of a PITA, I'd replace the u-joints and anything else you can while you've got it apart.

I started shopping, I hate shopping. Will running the Air Dog 150 instead of the recommended 100 hurt anything? The price is the same and more is usually better.I want to increase the low end torque for towing 9000 lbs of boat. Is the VP44 a good place to start? I was looking at Diesel Auto Power's HOTROD VP44. Or is the money better spent on an Edge Juice?

Hi All,I've been getting occasional 0216 codes since January. Today it took a long time to start and then wouldn't accelerate at all. Idle sounded normal, but it just stumbled when I pressed the pedal. I pulled the codes and got 0253, 0251, 0216, 1688 and 1693. Looks like its time for a new injector pump, and a new fuel pump, and oh yes, gauges.I'm thinking a stock VP44, Air Dog 100 and fuel pressure, pryo and boost gauges. Anybody have any good or bad experiences with any particular vendors? Thanks

Hi All, Just did my first oil change (oil was fresh 4K miles ago when I bought it). My Haynes manual says to torque the oil plug to 60 ft lbs. I thought that was a bit much so I only torqued it to 40. The plug bolt broke!! I torqued its replacement to 35. Is that enough? Thanks,Jay

I ended up getting a K&N filter (only 3x the cost) and it came with grease to help seal it. I pulled the air box top off after installing it and it looks like the K&N provides a better seal than the NAPA filter that was in there. And there is a noticable increase in performance. I'm thinking the FILTER MINDER might have been reset after the original filter clogged up and the engine has just been sucking air between the old filter and the top of the air box. Couldn't have been much getting through the old one.

I bought it from a dealer and assumed thet since the engine oil was clean, they must have performed all the required maintenance. Maybe they just looked at the filter minder like I did. I have started changing fluids, started with the rear LS, big improvement. Not knowing its history, should I replace the automatic transmission fluid? A GM mechanic once advised me not to change AT fluid at 100K if that was going to be its first. That was another vehicle I bought used and had no history on. I did end up changing the fluid and filter at 100K and it lasted to 205K.

While poking around under the hood yesterday, I decided to check out the air box. The FILTER MINDER said everything is good... The FILTER didn't agree !!

I haven't seen any smoke in the mornings, haven't calculated MPG yet, and don't really know if its suffering from low power. It does have more power than my old suburban (350 gasser). I been looking for 0-60 mph times to compare to, or some other way to confirm power loss. Any ideas?

Update on the fuel tank pressure issue, its was actually negative pressure. I had previously cleared some dirt from the rollover valve/vent tube. After loosening the fill cap, I blew 60 psi air in through the vent, still no joy. It took 100 psi to dislodge whatever was stuck in there. Tank vents properly now.