Lone Watie

How can I tell which of my heater hoses is the inlet and outlet? And I use the inlet hose for flushing, is this correct? I know there's an easy way, but can't find it anywhere. Thanks. - - - Updated - - - I see the two hoses, one goes to the water pump, the other comes out of the block and goes directly into the heater core. I'm guessing the one from the block to the core is the inlet. Is this correct?

That had been my train of thought - if it ain't broke..., but went ahead anyway.

Guess the only way to check that is to pull the tank module? How would I know if it's not aligned properly? Will it be obvious?

They are the same, was just putting two links up for anyone interested. I did a search for the mopar part number which I got from alldiy.com for the 'combination' switch and that's what google gave me. If anyone needs it, the part number from alldiy.com is 4728424

My truck, since new, has had an ongoing fuel gauge issue. Warranty replaced it 3-4 times. Warranty ran out years ago, but occasionally it will freeze at full. The second to last time it got stuck at full, it started registering fuel level after driving on some bumpy, rutty forest roads. It froze again at full just before the new year, so yesterday, I took it off road to try some bumps and sure enough, it started working again. Anyone have any ideas what would cause it to stick and then get jarred loose by rough roads? Thanks.

Where's the multifunction switch located? Is it this: http://www.ebay.com/ctg/Mopar-4728424-Combination-Switch-/83658493 or this: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1481968&cc=1377569

That's and idea. Is anyone using these slotted rotors: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3806838&cc=1377569 Kind of pricey, but come with the pads as well, which I know I need to change. My local auto shop will do a rotor for 15$, trued with the bearing race, though, so will have to give new rotors some thought. There's also these from rock auto for a little less: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4659573&cc=1377569

I'm at 220K and pretty sure it's the third lift pump on my truck, but still feel like I'm driving around on a time bomb with it, hence my preventative measure with my fuel boss. Richard did mention that one of the causes for pump failure is fuel starvation and he mentioned that a restriction before the pump such as an aftermarket filter system could cause premature pump failure. That might turn some of you off from the fuel boss. I'm not sure how much strain a f/w and separate filter might put on the fuel boss. If anyone has done this, I'd like to know.

That's exactly why I went with the fuel boss. I ordered the switch for the cab, too, so I can turn on the stock pump when I want to prime after a filter change. Bumping the starter gets old. I have a small LED I'm going to wire up as well, to let me know if the stock pump turns on while running as sort of an early warning of a belt break, etc. I received mine today but won't get to put it on until a week from Monday. I'll do as good of a write up as I can and try to take some pics as well. I do plan on fabricating some kind of shield to protect the belt from debris. I ordered an extra belt as well from Glacier to keep under the seat. I can't speak for DTT and the assassin, but Richard at Glacier Diesel has been more than helpful so far with questions, etc. - - - Updated - - - Here's the install instructions for the fuel boss attached. [ATTACH]5382[/ATTACH] It does a good job of explaining the plumbing. 98.5-02-Fuel-Boss-Install-Manual.pdf

Still no luck? The first time I did this a couple years ago to see what was wrong with the lights, it all slid back nicely. The other day, it seemed to hang a little as I was sliding back. I can tell you that while sliding the console rearward, it doesn't feel quite right, in other words, feels like you're going to break something. Too bad you're not in Flagstaff anymore, or I'd come over and give you a hand. Those tabs on the front need to be completely disengaged, though, in order to slide the assembly back.

I wrote earlier this week about my oscillation/uneven braking. The manual states the following concerning turning the rotors on a lathe. Can someone please tell me what this means? Is it something a machine shop will know when I go in there and tell them what I need, and, does this imply that the hub needs to with the rotor for turning? Thanks. The lathe must machine both sides of the rotor simultaneously with dual cutter heads. Equipment capable of machining only one side at a time may produce a tapered rotor. A hub mounted on-vehicle lathe is recommended. This type of lathe trues the rotor to the vehicles hub/bearing.

So, you push the tabs inside the garage door opener compartment and pull down slightly. There are 2 tabs at the rear of the console which need to be slid aft. So, while maintaining some gentle downward pressure, you slide the entire console to the rear and it should release. Then there is the wiring harness for the console which simply unplugs so you can take the console completely off. Hope this makes sense. You shouldn't have had to remove any of the 'doors' on the console. Here's from the manual: [*]Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. [*]Open the garage door opener storage bin door and locate the two overhead console latch tabs near the front of the bin. [*]While pulling gently downward on the front of the overhead console, push the latch tabs forward until each latch is disengaged from its receptacle in the inner roof panel. [*]Slide the overhead console rearward far enough to disengage the two mounting hooks on the rear of the housing from the mounting holes in the inner roof panel. [*]Lower the overhead console from the headliner far enough to access the wire harness connector. [*]Disconnect the roof wire harness connector from the overhead console wire harness connector. [*]Remove the overhead console from the vehicle

Sometimes the easiest way to diagnose is the most elusive. That's a good idea on the complete roll stop; I'll give it a try today if I go anywhere. Guess was just hoping for something other than having to pull those hubs off . Thanks for the suggestion.

You could always go to the menu and reset everything back to default values, then reenter everything and start fresh. That's what I'd been doing until yesterday. The last time I reset it all was few weeks ago when I changed out my starter. It's take several tank fill ups but it's dialed in pretty good now, within .3 gallons of actual fill up needs.

I've had the left front assembly off before when my bearing went, so not looking forward to this, but it will have to be done. Fortunately, I found a nice puller at a pawn shop that's big enough to handle the task. Might as well inspect those bearings again while I'm at it. I only had to change the front left 3 years ago. That was a pain in the rear, to say the least. - - - Updated - - - So, moving past the possibility of warped rotors, what else might cause this issue? Steering damper? Something in the steering box itself?

The ones the hospital here own have a couple things the old UH60As I flew didn't have: A/C and autopilot. I'll give them that. Guess you're used to A/C.

Well, could have them checked, but don't I have to pull the whole hub to get them off a 99. Or do I have it backwards, the rotor needs to come off to pull the hub?

I was about to order another wire harness for that to the tune of $26-36 from ebay. I'll go to radio shack instead. Right now, I have my map lights hot-wired to the circuit for the overhead console light so that when the door opens or I rotate the dimmer all the way they all come one. That was my fix a couple years ago, and it works, I just don't have the on/off function. Thanks again. On my way to Radio Shack as soon they're open this morning. - - - Updated - - - Got my map lights fixed. For reference, the radio shack part number 275-1555 referenced in the link at the top is correct. Just have to file down the lens 'nub' on the lens a tad to get the clicker to work properly.

I'm flying Bell 407s for the hospital here in Flagstaff. Definitely not the same. I miss power and 2 engines! Especially in the summer here at 7500'. - - - Updated - - - Here's the answer to my question from Scan Gauge, and why I've been losing my calibration: The ScanGauge does not have an internal battery. It uses the vehicles battery for power. If you disconnect the ScanGaugeII before disconnecting the vehicle's battery it will not reset the ScanGaugeII. Regards, Cristina Bollinger Repairs and Technical Support Linear Logic 1.888.433.5664

Thanks for the link. I'm going to go at mine with a micromesh kit first, and see if can polish some of the hazing out. If that doesn't work, will probably go with the eagle eyes, too.

I was wondering about that, myself, but the rotors are fairly new (2008). It definitely is translating into the steering wheel, though. I'll check rotors when I install my fuel pump, and check the brake pads, too.

There must be some type of bios type battery in that thing to hold the non-volatile memory (I think that's the right high dollar word). I sent a message to Scan Gauge asking the same thing, we'll see what they say.) I've looked, though, and cannot find it. Not sure what you mean by that. I'm guessing that you mean note the % of calibration, and go right to that calibration if I lose the memory? Is that correct? When I fill up, I always go to the more then fill up and adjust as necessary. Right now it's spot on, and I don't want to lose it in a couple weeks when I install my fuel boss and disconnect my batteries. I can't get a new fuel level sender now as already tapped out for the month, and plus, not sure if it's my sender. My fuel level gauge has been a source of angst since I brought her home in 1999. Many warranty calls and never worked right. Warranty ran out, and I gave up. It works when it wants to and when it doesn't it will freeze in place at full. Thanks for the reply. You still flying those apache's? I retired from the H60s at the end of 2008.

dripley - did you get those eagle eyes on line? If so from which site? Thanks.

For anyone who has a SCII - is there a battery in there that holds the memory of it for when the truck batteries are disconnected? The last two times I've had to start over with the fuel level calculation as when I disconnected the batteries for a battery swap, and then for my alternator, I lost my settings in the SCII. As my fuel gauge is currently inop I kind of rely on it a bit for my fuel level, and getting it calibrated takes several tanks of fuel, which for me translates to about 6 weeks, as I don't have far to drive for my job. Thanks.

They're a good store to deal with. They have a distro center in CA, and if you order soon enough, they'll ship out same day. I've used them a couple times now.