Me78569

I live at 7000' so it's not to far off. My hx35 ran about the same at 75 mph. Sealevel should drop that by 100*f if it acts like my hx35 did at sealevel.

depends I have a couple different profiles that are assignable via an in-cab pot. I can choose from 3 curves currently low mid and high Low or towing curve will put me at atleast 5 psi at 55 unloaded. Loaded I am sure that would be closer to 10-15psi ( no extra fuel run except for the injectors) Mid curve I see ~3psi at 55 unloaded ( fueling should be set to lvl 2 on the quad or canbus plus timing only) High curve performance mode I see 0 psi at 55. ( I can runt he quad turned up on this mode) Keep in mind my curves are based on the amount of fuel I am putting in rather than how much psi I want. The tuning of the turbo works better if you do this. So even though I have 0psi cruising at 55 in Perf mode, If I step on it the fueling I have will light the turbo quick and build to the max boost WITHOUT overspinning. If I use the towing curve with all my fuel turned up it does make for a fun ride, however you push the turbo WAY out of it's map, I would be blowing hot air by 2000 rpm. I am able to do this since I am watching my TPS values and adjusting the vanes from there. // TPS_range calc process if (ThrottlePosition <= 25) {TPS_low = true;} else {TPS_low = false;} if (ThrottlePosition <= 45 && ThrottlePosition > 25) {TPS_midlow = true;} else {TPS_midlow = false;} //{TPS_range = 0;}// watches throttle input to increase vane position. Vane position mapping is based on low throttle input. if (ThrottlePosition <= 70 && ThrottlePosition > 45) {TPS_mid = true;} else {TPS_mid = false;} //{TPS_range = 20;} if (ThrottlePosition > 70) {TPS_high = true;} else {TPS_high = false;} //{TPS_range = 40;} if (TPS_low) {TPS_range = 0;} //supports low throttle cruise. if under %25 don't change vanes if (TPS_midlow){ if ( BoostPressure < 5) {TPS_range = -40;} //it will try and spool the turbo if tps is 25><45 - numbers decrease vane size else if ( BoostPressure < 10) {TPS_range = -20;} else {TPS_range = 0;} } if (TPS_mid){ if (BoostPressure < 10) {TPS_range = -20;} else if (BoostPressure < 20) {TPS_range = 0;} else {TPS_range = 20;} } as an example you can see that I am making TPS_range range between one cm smaller , -40, to one cm bigger ,40. Then in my vanes calc section I add that TPS_range value else if (turbo_rpm < lit_rpm) { AntiBark = false; vane_position = map(turbo_rpm, curve_rpm[4], lit_rpm, turbo_curve[3]- TPS_range, turbo_curve[4] - TPS_range);} so if I am cruising with turbo rpms at 50,000 and I step on it the vanes will actually close some if boost if lower than 10psi. However if boost is up above 30 psi I will open the vanes some.

I sit right at 600-650 at 55 700-750 at 65 800-850 at 75

Update to first post.

The code is starting to get really good. I am now seeing 35psi on a hard run without any barking. I have also cleaned up most of the off idle smoke, and cruising to wot smoke. you need to know shaft speed, TPS, boost and drive to tune this turbo.

in the meantime you can wire up a relay with a switch in the cab that allows you to provide power to the lift pump.

I don't see anything rust wise in the pictures that support being able to put your foot through the bed. I am not even sure the rust on the frame is bad enough to worry about. without seeing it in person I can't say if it is surface rust or actually eating away at the frame. The pictures are too grainy for me to say one way or another. The rear frame rails look fine, some surface rust and areas where the paint has pulled off.

Thanks for the updates moparmom ( one of these days I need to get your name haha). Prayers are with you guys. fire can cause huge devastation in our eyes. We had a fire back 10 years ago in a remote area of the San De Cristo mountain range that burned up a ton of land. Number of people came close to loosing their homes. I gotta say though, 10 years later the area that was burned up now is full of life and new growth. Hands down one of the prettier places to be. Anyways Hope everyone stays safe. Nick

Truck looks clean EXCEPT for I see 2 issues here. First the frame does look pretty rusty.....never seen a 2nd gen dodge without the front section covered in oil......I mean anti rust. Without being able to look close tho I don't know how bad it is. The bottom of the bed and the rear of the truck look normal with surface rust. I agree that maybe it was in a wreck. I see what could be junkyard markings on the fan shroud, which could mean it was busted up in the front. I would look for signs of a new intercooler and radiator. Secondly I see a shock that BADLY needs to be replaced. Not a huge deal but strikes me as odd that the rest of the truck would be so clean, yet a $20 shock hasn't been done. Other than that it seems like the first truck for sale with a sensible price I have seen in awhile.

Nope you cant. The edge comp does can bus fueling timing and wiretap fueling. I am assuming your banks stuff does timing also. Lift pump is needed regardless. What kind of fuel pressure do you have currently?

Verify where you are getting power from. does the OEM plug go into a relay or directly to the pump?

I thought the grids took way more. The more you know.

Br safe good luck.

I think the old girl is gonna look good with the bomber look. I think rather than teeth the 7 needs a pin up girl. The car isn't a fighter. It is a dream to drive though. 100+ mph without a sweat all day long.

Just unplug the box.

I am not electrical engineer, but i THINK jumping another guy would be fine. Would I risk it? No. I would just unplug the box when you need to jump someone. It happens so rarely that why not?

Well I not only have a beat up Dodge truck, but I also have a 1989 bmw 750il. Yep quarter century old bmw v12, good choice huh hahah I've always had a soft spot for the older BMW sedans. I have had E36 318is SOOO SLOW, but ran good at 260,000 miles not worth a picture E34 540i 6 speed, quick and fun had big dreams with a small wallet E34 530it Awesomely fun to drive soccer mom car. I sold it at 297,000 miles and it still ran like a tank, I later found it at a junkyard. That hurt. If you care to read the story of this car it can be found HERE and finally the current E32 750il Anyways I bought this car from my farther in law for $250 in none running condition. It needed some serious help. Some specs. - m70 5.0l v12 SOHC - 300 hp 300 ft/lb - #4000+ worth of German metal - Reclining rear seats - all seats heated - self leveling suspension Anyways here's how I got it Parked at it's new home things it needed to be road ready, - all fluids changed - all 4 rotors turned and new brake pads - 4 new tires - %75 new coolant hoses ( replaced the rest shortly after) - New head gasket on drivers side. - Rear suspension valve re-seal and adjustment - Headlights - engine bay cleaning - Some basic wiring Paint was in 3/10 condition. Head off Brake Work Back on the ground in running condition Painted it Flat Black And upgraded headlights Morimoto Bixenon mini h1's ( very highly recommended) Anyways all of this to get to where it is now. Paint is starting to peel off due to me not having time to finish it...........So whats the next step? . . . . . . . . I think camo green WWII Bomber theme needs to happen. I am thinking Shark Teeth and maybe a pin-up girl. something like the below. I have to say that plasti-dip is wonderful stuff. ( nice to have a car you can do whatever you want with because you don't care about it) The beginning

The issue with the quad was when people would jump their dead truck with the quad connected. The spike in power caused iusses. Using a winch shouldn't cause any issues. Amps are minimal compared to normal starting of the truck. Remember that the grids take something like 600 amps to run. I never unplug my quad to start the truck in the winter.

You will have to open the box up to see the board number. I really doubt you will have issues, even at 300 amps just starting the truck takes more than that so it wont hurt the programmer.

Don't you hate that Pretty much, "I don't know when or where, but something bad is happening"

The no jumping with the quad plug in refers to the large power spike that happens when you jump a car or get jumped with dead batteries. Now correct me if I am wrong, but I don't see a winch drawing a ton of power instantly? Right? I know they use a lot of amps, but they are not injecting/removing a ton of power into the system? What amp's does your winch draw? Remember steady power draw is fine. The early quadzilla boards 1.0 - 1.2 had the most issues. I don't see you having issues by running a winch, unless I am missing something.

yep get the multimeter out and start checking for ground on your hot wires. You have a short to ground someplace.

agree with above. I would recheck fuses then start looking at any power taps/splices that you or a prior owner did into the running lights.

others to get involved, huuh? When you gonna jump in? article like http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/480-he351ve-vgt-standalone-turbo-arduino-controller Cowboy, Yea the freqmeasure library does a good job of reading rpms, but the large time sucker the bargraph was overpowered it. rpms are much more stable now, no more jumping.

Mike, I have updated the code in the first post with much more indepth comments if you care to look at it. And just an FYI it was all done on a linux system. the code is getting good enough that I would recommend the turbo to someone else. The mid range power really shines on this turbo and the torque curve is soooooo much flatter than the hx35.