Me78569

I want to do the same thing, problem is the junk yards want like $40 a light here, it is nuts.

just email to the same email address

Anyone see the pluto pictures? kinda scary...I smell a cover up

how big is it? Couple ways to transfer, but that depends on the size.

I doubt you really want to run a new stretch of wire from the front of the truck. The closest plug for the bed wiring is under the drivers front tire. to my knowledge that is the only "plug and play" plug that the entire bed wiring goes to. Dodge wiring color CIRCUIT FUNCTION 1 12 gauge black GROUND 2 12 gauge light blue TRAILER ELECTRIC BRAKE OUTPUT 3 12 gauge black/orange TAIL LIGHT (Trailer Tow Relay in PDC) 4 12 gauge Red/Tan* FUSED B(+) (40A, Always Hot, F8 in PDC) 5 16 gauge dark green/red LEFT REAR TURN SIGNAL 6 16 gauge brown/pink RIGHT REAR TURN SIGNAL 7 16 gauge violet/black BACK-UP LAMP

are the markers at %0 ,%2, and %20?

got it.

.

Yet more updates

We would very much like to have a write-up on sound reducing.

Send us a link to the chart. We would love to have that info.

"crummy 2nd gen" was more aimed to the lights in the truck hahaha.

for your first time just get a universal kit from Morimoto rather than trying to piece it together. They have quality stuff at The retrofit source. Good practice for you as you will be placing an order shortly once you see how well they do.

haha if someone wants to donate a few hundred to my " write up and good headlight article for crummy 2nd gen trucks" fund I will do one heck of a writeup for you guys, but since the truck isn't DD my car got the headlights first. If you want to look over the writeup I did for my BMW 89 750il you can find that here. It was more complex to do because the bmw has oem projectors with a bosch specific housing. http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2141684-DIY-E32-Miromoto-Mini-H1-Bixenon-install-Squared-Motorwerks-adapter&highlight=morimoto Keep in mind that when you see the before and after of the light output that the before lights were 4x better than the dodges. I will answer a couple questions in regards to above though. If you live in an area where offroad lights won't work IE: the city, then you will get to the point of thinking the retrofit isn't that much work, or that paying $500 for a set of premade housing with projectors are worth it. Now what bulb, projector, color, etc etc is up to you fully. they have to match each other though, that is why I suggest Retrofit Source as they sell everything together. I would suggest that you stay with 35W bulbs as the 55w put out a good bit of heat and they might melt the oem lens. Projector I personally would go with the mini h1's as they are the cheapest, but yet provide great output. The draw back is they have a "small" lens ,2.5", and reflector so your output isn't as good all around as say a larger 3" or 3.5" lens. HOWEVER the output from the mini h1 will still be FAR beyond the oem. Color I always suggest 4300k, because it is a whitest light IE: most output in terms of light. Lumens IMPORTANT TO UNDERSTAND: lumens don't differ much between the bulbs ( within the same watt rating), all mainstream HID bulbs have the same gas inside of them (xenon) regardless of h1 vs ds2 etc etc. The type of bulb is simply what they fit into. Now for taking about the housing. This shouldn't be any anyone is afraid of. it is VERY easy. You can use a couple of methods, 1. (preferred) use a heatgun to warm up the outside lip of the lens causing the glue to soften and let go. Gently use a flathead to slowly pry the lens away. Don't use very much force, once the glue is to the right temp the lens should pull away pretty easy. 2. turn your oven to warm or lowest setting and put your housing in there for 20 minutes checking to ensure it isn't too hot and melting the housing regularly. Your oven shouldn't get hot enough on the lowest setting to do damage, but sometimes the thermometer in your oven is way off. Once the housings are warm use a flat head to pry the lens off in the same manner. be slow and gentle, it should come off easy. Now for installing the projector into the housing once the lens is off. This again is VERY easy, the morimoto projectors are made to fit inside the hole in the housing that holds the bulbs, once you use a dremel or similar to cut the bulb alignment tabs out of the housing. in the end if you are handy with a wrench and know how to connect + to + and ground to ground you can install morimoto projectors into your truck. I know Mike has said that he doesn't like the morimoto setup because it requires a specific bulb etc, but I simiply have a spare set of bulbs on my shelf ($40) for the day when they burn out ( rated at 2000 hours)

go to a parts store and scan for codes. the truck is trying to tell you whats up 1693 means there is another code. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/89-obdii-on-board-diagnostics-diagnostic-error-codes I am guessing you have a bad crank sensor or something like that.

First post is updated with new code that is RPM based. I have left in place my final boost map code for use if you want to control the holset he351ve using boost / drive. I would suggest you visit lilbb.com and learn how to setup your controller to work with shaft rpms. some notes on the change to rpm code. -Turbo position has been un-inverted compared to the boost code. 25cm now = 40, 3cm = 960 This is to match what cummins did -This means that the pot control section needs to map the pot to match constrain(map(PotentiometerValue,0,1000,970,05), 20, 970);

Not sure if you can read code but here is what Hakcenter has in place to keep the turbo from barking. constrain(vane_position, min_position, max_position); final_vane_position = vane_position; // Vane smoothing between large values if (turbo_rpm < top_end_rpm) { if (vane_position >= last_vane_position + 20 && last_vane_position < max_position - 10) { final_vane_position = last_vane_position + 10; } else if (vane_position <= last_vane_position - 20 && last_vane_position > min_position + 10) { final_vane_position = last_vane_position - 10; } else if (vane_position - 10 >= last_vane_position || vane_position + 10 <= last_vane_position) { if (vane_position > last_vane_position + 2 && last_vane_position < max_position - 2) { final_vane_position = last_vane_position + 2; } else if (vane_position < last_vane_position - 2 && last_vane_position > min_position + 2) { final_vane_position = last_vane_position - 2; } Effectively it will only move the vanes slowly if the last position is > x amount. So even if the vanes have been told to move a lot, due to change in conditions, it will only slowly move them. Injectors are back in and smoke levels are down to what I would consider reasonable for the altitude. Still not really super happy with them, but they are pretty good ( i am overly picky). I am sure that at sea level they won't smoke at all so that is what I would expect. I was hoping for cleaner, but I am not sure if that is possible.

Any codes when using a code scanner? Any smoke? What kinda fuel pressure do you have?

told you above. morimoto mini h1's are pretty dang good, considering the low price and the GREAT output. if you want really good retrofit some FX-R's Here you can see a bunch of different projectors, some of which are OEM so yes they are engineered, but you can see the morimoto offerings and see how good they do compared to the OEM's http://www.jvxdriver.com/bixenon_comparison.htm Here is some more compares on oem vs aftermarket. http://www.jvxdriver.com/single_comparison.htm here is the main site, which has a ton of good info on lighting http://www.jvxdriver.com/Various%20Beam%20Comparison%20-%20FX,RX,SC,S2K.htm As you can see the cut off on the good aftermarket projectors is fine. The output from a setup like this will smoke any none hid/projector setup. I like morimoto because they make a good product and have good support http://www.theretrofitsource.com/complete-retrofit-kits/universal-kits.html

that's rough. Thanks for your work man. I am sure the family is thankful to know what happened.

I have timken bearings in mine and they seem to be holding up well a few years of use so far.

Smoke I was seeing was due to an issue with the injecotrs. They were set at ppump preasures. I am waiting to see if the new injectors fix my issues. My controller now does vanes based on turbo rpms which helps clean up the smoke too.

Moog moved overseas also. Used to be just the moog problem solvers were overseas.

glad to see you checking in! Seems that part quality these days is going down hill FAST. I no longer buy any moog stuff

Check the junction above the drivers front tire. All the wires to the rear of the truck connect there. I have seen that junction get corroded and cause issues like the speedo.