rlane547

The other day I was complaining about all the money I've spent on my truck and told my wife I should of just bought a new one. Then I had a job come into the shop the next day. It was a 09 International Maxxforce 10 with 25,000 miles and I can't remember the hours but they were low. The turbo was shot, but after getting into it I ended up replacing both egr coolers, charge air cooler,& egr valve. Had to remove intake manifold and bead blast the soot off of it and then clean the intake and exhaust ports on the head, which really needed to come off and be properly cleaned but I lost that battle. I go through this all the time and every time I do, I pat my old 24v on the hood because I don't want anything to do with an emissions engine. Cummins is way better than International but they still have their issues.

Mine overflowed a couple of days ago too. I thought it was possibly the heat because it was 100 degrees that day. I know my power steering fluid is good because I've had to pull the vacuum pump off three times and the first time I flushed it really well, then I drained and filled the last two times.

Thats what I thought. I've installed all three, spring toward the front/wet side. Also thought about fluid as well so I took a white wypall and put a dab of oil on it and a dab of power steering fluid. Then took a dab of leaking fluid on it. No doubt its oil. Cleaned around the area and ran truck to operating temp. It is leaking around the seal for sure.

Let me throw this out there in case anyone else may be worried about offending me. I want you guys to ask me everything you think might be a possibility. I wasn't raised to carry a big ego and a know it all, so don't be shy to ask anything. As for the direction of the seal, Mike is right. Cummins has one line buried in the directions, pg. 3 step# 13, "press into the sleeve with dust lip facing down". I don't know about Mikes but my directions look like they came from a printer that is about to run out of ink. There are pictures but they are virtually useless. It's also a double lip seal, so which lip are they talking about. I pressed it in like a pinion seal or output shaft seal. Open, spring side down. The closed faced side facing power steering pump. Maybe that is the problem?

Not exactly sure where its leaking this time. I'll find out tomorrow for sure. I do know without a doubt that the seal was bottomed out against the retainer lip every time. Also, I'm positive the retainer was fully seated as well. Each time, I inspected everything to see if I could figure out what was going on. Neither o-ring had been torn, rolled, or otherwise damaged. Both seals were in good condition. Outer diameter of seals were not torn, they were seated evenly, the double lips had no damage, springs are intact. I saved everything and inspected them with a magnifying glass tonight. I see no reason at all for it to fail.

Alright, need some help here before I take a sledgehammer to it. A few months ago I had to replace my power steering pump. I figured since I was going to pull the vacuum pump anyway, I might as well be on the safe side and clean, inspect, and replace the o-rings even though it wasn't leaking. I've now put three sets of o-rings on this pump and I'll be @#$%ed if it isn't leaking again. I make my living as a mechanic but I may need to think about a career change. The first two sets of o-rings were from Gould. A buddy had bought it but ended up selling the truck so he gave it me. I followed the instructions exactly and torqued everything to spec. First time, leaked between the retainer and housing. Second time, same scenario, but leaked from seal lip. This time, I'm not sure. I flipped it the bird, did a lot of cussing, and came in to ask you guys. Each time I have cleaned everything like I was doing surgery. There are no burrs, no wear marks, no dirt, nothing. Only difference I saw between seal kits is that the Gould kit seal fit tighter in the retainer compared to the Cummins. Any help greatly appreciated!

Oh, I took it out on the back roads, last Saturday morning and just acted like a total fool. I did several nice burnouts and just let the smoke roll. Then I realized I was still old, because on the way home I was calculating tire prices and how much fuel I burned. I had a blast though. I got in big trouble the other day. The wife and I were driving down a four lane and some kid in a V10 Ford kept pulling up on my bumper and backing off. He finally got beside me at the red light and every time I would inch forward he would too, then he looked over and that was it for me. I'm a redneck hillbilly and even though the wife tries, she just can't get rid of it. Anyway, when the light turned green we both hammered it. He got ahead for a split second but when I caught traction I went by him like he was sitting still. My wife screamed and hollered the whole time. I think she's still a little mad

RV275's are installed! I was skeptical as to whether or not it would make that much difference, but it is a very noticeable gain. The only problem now is it's going to eat my wallet for a while because I can't keep my foot out of the throttle. And is it wrong, that when I was boxing up the old injectors I was already thinking about what size nozzles I'm going to get in the future?

Give us a little info about your truck. When I installed a built tranny in mine, with raised line pressures, I had to install a 100 ohm resistor into the orange wire in the middle pcm harness. I had to fool the PCM into thinking the truck was within normal limits (stock), for line pressure, otherwise I would get a Trans Temp light on and it would go into limp mode. Not saying this is your problem at all, but there is always a cause and effect when you change something. I would check the line pressure. I believe stock settings are around 60psi idle and 100 wot. On a performance transmission it should be around 70 or higher at idle and 190 at wot. Knowing the year model would help as well. There is a pigtail harness out there that will allow the 00-02 models to run the old style governor pressure solenoid instead of the plastic version. However, it is not backwards compatible. Meaning, it will plug into the harness of the 98.5-99 trucks and look fine, but the transmission will do some crazy things. I found this out the hard way. Anyway, let us know about the truck. It's possible the valve body could be for the wrong application. What type of torque converter did you install?

That 1.5-2mpg is what I'm really excited about!

Thanks for the tips. I ended up buying some new Bosch RV275's from a local injection shop my company does business with. He gave me an awesome deal I couldnt refuse. Looking forward to getting them installed. Considering I have the 215hp rated engine, it should make a noticeable difference.

HX35 turbo

I'm ready to buy some injectors but I need a little help deciding. I've narrowed it down to RV275's or DAP 75hp aftermarket. I want to keep my cores. I really want the 75hp but worried about aftermarket bodies. Would like to hear some opinions.

Thanks Ed.

I'm always up for learning something new. Might as well give it a shot.

That's awesome guys, thanks. I was about to drop the hammer on some RV275's and call it a day. When I saw this turbo laying beside the dumpster and they said take it or it's going in the scrap bin, my brain started kicking in to overdrive. I sent out some emails to a couple of turbo shops in the area that I've done business with to try and get some info on it, because now I'm thinking, "How big of an injector could I run with this turbo?" So my 'good deal' that I was getting on the RV275's from the fuel shop, is on hold until I explore the possibilities. I also realize that more fuel and more boost is going to lead to even more things, but you guys know better than anyone, when the bug bites ya', its over from there. Every time I do a mod, I tell myself this is it, I'm done now but I haven't stopped and a free turbo is certainly not helping matters. This entire thread is what I was talking about when I posted what I said it the thread about donations. You can't get this kind of info from a service manual and you certainly don't find people you've never met willing to help you like this!

Well, you guys went way over my head with the coding. I would have to pay someone to do that for me. I guess I was thinking more along the lines of a way to build a non-vgt, mechanically wastegated turbo with some of the parts from this one. That being said, I'm still open to the idea of a PWM controller. This is going to be a learning experience as I go. Cost will be a big factor as well. If it turns out to be more than buying a new turbo then I won't fool with it. Cowboy, since you asked, you'll be the first person I contact if I decide to get rid of it.

Will do. Thanks Ed. BW doesn't have near as much info on their site as Holset. I have a couple of other avenues I think might work though.

Last week the parts department where I work was told to clean out everything that had been laying around, not in inventory. I walked past the scrap pile out back and there was a turbo. I checked it out and it was used but it pretty fair condition. I asked if it was supposed to be there and he said yeah, so like everything else I brought it home. It is a Borg Warner S300V 110 off of an International DT466. I'm curious as to whether or not I can use anything from this turbo to build a better turbo for my truck. I can't seem to find much information about the specs anywhere. I know it is a VTG but I'm wondering if there is anyway to make it work. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

I look at it this way. You can pick up a service manual on CD for about 35.00. So, for instance, when you have a problem like death wobble or wandering on your 2nd gen you can go to the manual, perform all of the diagnostic procedures, and find out according the the factory service manual your truck is fine. Also, there is not a section in there about installing a BHAF, modifying your crankcase vent, replacing the junk stock lift pump before it kills your VP44,or high idle mod. the list goes on and on. So, if you buy the manual and strictly adhere to everything in it, you will wind up throwing thousands of dollars down the drain and your truck will never be reliable or durable. On the other hand, you can make a donation here, and find everything you need to know about making your truck reliable and on the road for as long as you want to keep it. If it was even possible to take all of the information here and put it in a book and sell it, I would be afraid to even guess what that would cost. So I'll keep donating what I can, when I can, because it's worth it to me every time I get in that ol' 99 model pickup and grin from ear to ear when I floor the go pedal.

So at work today they were clearing everything off of the upper lot where we park the overflow trucks and the trucks we don't really use anymore. My job was to see if I could get an old 1990 Gradall truck that is used for making splices in high line power lines running enough to make it about 1/4 mile to the shop. When I went to look at it I found that it had an old C-series Cummins 8.3 in it. I was told that the truck had not been started in five years. I checked the fluids and everything was there, you could tell it had been there a while. I went to the shop and grabbed a couple of batteries and replaced the 2008 batteries with them. Also I had taken some tools with me because I was prepared to have a fight on my hands. When I jumped in the cab, I wiped the dust off of everything and turned the key. I was shocked because it literally took less than a second before it fired up. One puff of white smoke and she purred like a kitten. Getting it back to the shop was a little scary because the brake pedal was sticking and so was the accelerator. When I wheeled in the garage no one could believe it. Our company is hard core International, so when I shut it down, I fired it right back up and told them that is the reason they should switch to Cummins!

Great minds think alike. I had some scrap air brake hose at the shop that worked just fine. I picked up the flexible connectors at Advance Auto.

Does anyone have a parts breakdown or diagram of the vacuum lines? All of my vacuum line fittings are dry rotted and I want to replace all of them. I'm going to call the dealer today but in the past they always seem to be a little lost when it comes to the diesel trucks.