rlane547

Tranny is in but now I've got the O/D off light and trans temp light on. Disconnecting battery cables to see if that helps. Any other ideas?

Thanks guys. Getting started now. Hopefully be back on the road today.

Alright guys, I've got everything here and going to do the install tomorrow. I flushed the cooler and the heat exchanger thoroughly. Should I fill the converter before I install the transmission?

MnTom, that sounds like first hand knowledge. Ha ha. There's nothing like experience. Over the years I've learned many lessons while cleaning up my messes.

No purple. I went with Revmax. They are local and I like dealing with them. Just not anyone I know of around here I would trust with a rebuild. Heard lots of horror stories. Hopefully I'll be back on the road this weekend.

Buying a built unit. Triple disc t/c, performance valve body, the works. Tired of fooling with it. Its the only part of the truck that has given me problems.

Well, transmission is paid for and should be ready Thursday. I have to find someone that will let me rent or borrow a jack, then hopefully I'll be back on the road this weekend.

Not cool at all, especially right now. Guess there's not a good time for these things anyway. As far as plans. I plan on going with RV275 injectors in the future and that is about it power wise. I'm pretty happy with where it is right now. I tow my travel trailer which is roughly 9000lbs regularly so that is on the list. Revmax is right here in my back door. I was really happy with their torque converter so I think I will buy a built tranny from them. I believe their Signature Series should work well for me. That will save me the core charge since I can pull it out and take it with me when I pick the new one up. It sounds easy but I have to come up with the money first. Other plans are exhaust brake and some interior and exterior cosmetics that I would like to take care of.

Thanks for the help guys but I don't think it matters now. I pulled the pan and let it drain overnight. There are very finely ground particles everywhere. Time for a new transmission.

I'm leaning towards pump too. It stinks though because two months ago when I did the torque converter, I replaced the pump bushing, gasket, and o-ring. I inspected the pump and it was in good shape. I guess stranger things have happened.

Ok, so checked pressures today. Line pressure with truck in drive at idle is= 50psi at startup and drops while truck is running. Governor pressure= 60 at startup then drops to 30. Is this indicative of solenoid sticking?

So here is where I'm at today: Alternator checks out fine. Fluid level is perfect. No external leaks anywhere. All electrical plugs checked and in good condition. Shifter linkage is correct and working properly. Fluid is clean. No metal on drain plug. No aeration of fluid. At first startup it engages in all gears, then the longer it runs the longer it takes to engage until it won't engage at all. What is normal line pressure on the 47re?

Is there any way to test it other than with the DRB? I replaced it in May with the upgraded Borg Warner version.

This morning I drove the truck to take my son to school and then run a few errands. Transmission shifted normally, truck ran fine, nothing out of the ordinary. This evening I went to pick him up from school and once I hit the road it wouldn't shift out of second gear, not even manually. I get to the school, check fluid, its full and was just changed in October when I installed the new torque converter. I shut the truck off, started it back up, and it shifted fine for about a half mile then it started hanging in second again. I pulled up to a stop light and it started jerking and bucking, so I threw it in neutral. I made it to my driveway in second gear then trying to get up the hill it wouldn't engage in any gear. I shut it off, started it back and it engaged normally so I pulled in the car port. I worked it in and out of gear a few times then it started bucking again, so again I shut it off, started it and it was the same scenario. It could be coincidence but it seems like it shifts at first while the grid heaters are running and the alternator is low but once the alternator gets up to normal it starts acting up. Is it possible for alternator a/c noise to cause it to act this bad? I didn't have time to check tonight but was looking for some suggestions. Another thing is that the temperature is way below normal here. 7 degrees this morning with below 0 wind chill. I know most of you guys will laugh but thats cold for NC.

I replaced mine with a rebuilt one from Advance Auto about six months ago. I haven't had any problems yet. Make sure you flush the system really well. As for the Borgeson, my guess is that they are better built and probably last a long time if you service the system regularly but I didn't have that kind of money to spend.

You just can't get some people to realize that this industry is constantly changing and you have to put forth the effort to do some research to find out what is the correct way to do things. I get into more arguments over pre-filling filters than anything else. I'm the only one in our shop who doesn't do it and they think I'm a nut. I tried to explain it and even took in a couple of articles but guess what I got? ......We've always done it that way. Geez!

X2 on the Mercedes. Fought that battle many times on the MB900. I don't miss that job. I agree with the atf as well. Worked for a fleet where it was actually standard procedure to fill filters with atf. i pulled out many injectors that looked just like the pictures Mike posted. I brought it up during a conference call and they said they had been doing it that way for years and it didn't have anything to do with the injectors. Worst part is that these were all 4bt and 6bt engines. You could manually prime the filter in minutes. My blood pressure spikes every time I hear someone say, "We've always done it that way". I say, well you've always done it wrong then.

Thanks for the info guys. Looks like I'll keep a bottle on hand and watch the weather. Lows right now are 28-30 degrees overnight with highs in the 50's. I'll dose it when the temps head toward the teens.

Living in North Carolina we don't frequently see extremely low temps but last year we had a few weeks that went as low as 8 degrees. I don't think they sell winterized diesel here, at least I can't find anything that says they do. I'm wondering at what temp should I use and anti-gel supplement? Also, I always run 2-stroke oil in my fuel. Is it safe to run anti-gel with the 2-stroke when necessary?

Oh yeah. I've already talked to the guy about everything. Now all I need is the money. Story of my life.

You may need to get the wedges that slide into the keyway to keep the axle nut from spinning back and you may want to pick up two axle nuts if they are the ones with the nylon ring. I'm pretty sure they suggest you replace those type any time you take them off. The Napa Part Numbers are: Axle Nut #635-1102 qty. 2 and Wedges #635-1103 qty.2 My 99 had this style, not sure if they all did.

Thanks! Looks like its time to pull my injectors and get em to the fuel shop. While I'm at it, +50hp nozzles sounds like a nice Christmas present for 'ol Dad here! Thanks again for the video. Really good info there.

If you still have the wandering issue after replacing the gearbox check out the Ram Rock Solid Column bushing. It's about 60.00, easy to install, and takes quite a bit of play out of the steering. Also, I put a reman gearbox on mine not long ago and I made some adjustments on mine right off the bat. When I put it on it still felt sloppy so I adjusted it 1/4 turn at a time until I got it where I wanted it. This of course after I had checked the play in ball joints, tie rod ends, etc.

That sucks! I was going to suggest an oil analysis which would give you a decent idea of how the internals are. Guess you don't have to worry about it now, That's one thing about these trucks though. If you want to get rid of it it's usually not a problem.

Not to but in, but just to be on the safe side you may want to ohm those battery cables. I've seen some that look perfect but show a lot of resistance when you put the meter on it. Not uncommon for battery cables to deteriorate and separate inside of the rubber shielding.