rlane547

Driving home tonight then same old demon came back again. At 50-60 mph t/c started locking and unlocking. This thing is giving me a run for my money. My alternator is within spec, all grounds have been checked, cleaned, and had dielectric grease applied. Just to waste time and money I relocated the alternator ground cable away from the alternator across the radiator. Also I blew the 25.00 on the BD Apps noise isolator. I don't know what else to do now. Is there anything else that can cause this problem?, Anything!

It would be hard for me to justify all the time and labor involved for the same money. Who does a decent build on a 47re for reasonable cost? My truck will never see over 350hp but I do tow around 7000lb. On a regular basis.

Does anyone out there have a ballpark figure on swapping a 47re for a NV4500? Trying to do a little planning for the future. If I can do the swap for the same price as buying a built 47re then I would rather have the manual.

I got lucky after work today. I went by a local junk yard and found one in perfect condition and the same color for 20.00. I cleaned it up and sprayed it with a coat of paint I had left over from my pillar pod. Thanks guys for all the suggestions.

Wish it would have broken on the other side that's a good idea you had. I'll check the Cummins forum and online junkyards. Thanks.

I'd like to see some pics. Mine is broken on the door itself. The two half round hinges on each end are broken. Only the center is left.

Anyone know of a fix for broken glove box hinges or where I could find a used one for less than 75.00. That seems to be the going rate on Ebay. Tried the junk yards around my area but no luck so far.

Thank you for that. Gives me a little piece of mind.

Yeah going on long trip this weekend. Thinking run it. If symptoms come back pull alternator fuse and see what happens. If that clears it up then I know for sure and I can go back on the hunt for an alternator. By the way did the wire twist on speed sensor that you suggested and no skips so far. Thanks.

Another thing is I'm using a decent DVM but it is not a Fluke True RMS meter. What are the chances that my meter could be slightly off?

Mike I cleaned grounds again yesterday and test drove. No symptoms now. I just checked the alternator per your video exactly. My meter is reading 0.02-0.03 back and forth. Is this too high? I went to Napa and had them bench test a brand new alternator and it was putting out 0.03 to 0.04 so I didn't buy it. I've been driving the truck all morning still with no symptoms. Do you think I should continue my search for a new alternator? I went ahead and had them order a reman for me just in case that will be here around lunch.

They have a bench tester I'm just not sure what he was talking about.

Mike, I can't afford the mean green anyway. I ordered a new one from the alternator shop today and should be here tomorrow. I asked if I could check it with my multimeter on the bench and he said sure but it wouldn't show anything because the voltage regulator wouldn't be hooked up through the truck. Shouldn't just spinning the alternator and checking the ac output work?

Cleaned, inspected, and applied dielectric grease to all grounds and wiring harnesses. Gonna check again tomorrow though. Maybe I missed something.

Thanks. I'll check it out and give it a try.

I tried the key trick but nothing happens. I read that you can't have just that code either but I've scanned it with three different scanners and its the only code I can get. If I need to take it to the dealer I will but I just want someone to confirm that they will be able to find it with the dealer scanner.

I'm having a problem again with torque converter lockup I think. Symptoms are different though. I can be driving 70 and for a split second its like it misses then goes back to normal. Sometimes at 30-40 trans shifts back and forth. When this started I got an apps code cleared it and did the apps reset but didn't accomplish anything. The alternator I had rebuilt the first time was putting out 0.1v ac but now it jumps from 0.12 to 0.34 so I know that's a problem. I borrowed a snap-on verus to do some diag and I get a p1693 fault in companion module. There are no other codes showing up and I can't clear this one. I've cleaned all grounds and connections. Any ideas?

Joecool911 your planned mod of NV4500 swap sounds real good right about now. I've about had it with the 47re.

I'll try talking to them but I'm not sure they get it. I explained what I needed and even showed them with my DVM but they had that blank stare. I've tried to explain to several people even let them read Mikes article but they just can't seem to grasp the concept. Everyone says oh you need an APPS sensor or APPS reset. It gets frustrating.

I had a local shop rebuild it a few months ago and worked fine put out 0.1v ac. Now I'm back with converter lock/unlock and 0.3v ac

Is there a known brand of alternator that produces low ac current for our trucks?

Anyone have the part number for the rear axle nut and wedge on a Dana 70. Or better yet a part number for the old style double nut system?

Thanks guys. I'll give it a shot on 5x5. I don't get into the throttle too much anyway these days.

Looking for some opinions on what's the best setting to run on the Edge Comp while towing. I'll be pulling around 8,000lbs. Not towing I run 5x5.

No. I mean get it from Cummins or Dodge. You don't want to take a chance because if this sensor fails you are dead in the water. It will crank all day but no start. Cummins technically calls it a speed sensor which is what it is. Just like a wheel speed sensor. So if you ask for a crank sensor and they say speed sensor you are on the right track.