lrhull

So I checked and d grease on all the conection and have had no problems since. Also I re bled the line from the isolator to my ispro gauge and wow I've got pressure. Stupid gauge I have to do that every once and awhile.

Here it is hawkez from the standard examiner http://www.standard.net/Environment/2015/02/07/Counties-look-to-implement-diesel-emisisons-testing-for-cleaner-air.html

My county currently does not require emission testing for renewals each year. But they are talking about it now. Should I be worried or has anyone had problems with the test.

I have a Fass ddrp 95 thats three years old and I know low pressure is a sign the lift pump is failing. What are other signs? Mine in the last three months has not come on upon start up 4 times and stopped once just after pulling onto street. I have turn it off and on a couple times to it to go. Filters are 2 -3 months old pressure is down a couple psi but it usually is in the winter when it is cold.

So I'm still figuring out the scan gauge. Does boost or horse power work right on a cummins? Loop and ignition timing give me no readings is that right? The boost seem right up to about five then is different there on up compared to my ispro gauge. I've got the cutoff set at 19.

Sorry yankneck696 I need to pm or call you like you asked.

Gauge in the dash does not move after using high idle and turning switch off. Works just fine if I don't use the high idle. I did the cluster test everything was fine. My concern is does it affect the running of the truck like gpm. Like I said the scan gauge temp goes back to normal. I haven't tried going from high idle to gpms to see what it does . On gpm mode is the ect temp messed with or is it left open to normal?

So I've had the kit now for a week or so. I have no new codes light is off the 0500 is still in there I can't clear it with my code reader or my new scan gauge II, my trucks funny I get link error it takes 20 times before it will let me clear a code. Anyway if I start my truck normal everything is normal. If I set the high idle warm it up then turn switch to off the temp gauge still sits right at 140 even when the scan gauge reads 190. I've even shut the truck down up to 5 minutes and still reads 140 but after a couple of hours it works, weird or is this normal?

Found my answer: http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/32-air-system/102-grid-heater

What are the perameters for when the grid heater should come on and off

Just tried 3 cylinder. Wow sounds like a kabota tractor.

I think I'm going crazy. Yesterday I was ready to throw this thing away. Today is better. First of all feeding the plug ends through the fire wall is a pain. I have no idea where I got the one error code I posted earlier but it's gone and all is working now at least for today. Except for the 0500 code from what I have found is that some of us get the 0500 error when in high idle for to long. I guess I'll have to live with looking at the check engine light. I have not ran the 3 cylinder high yet. Just to make sure I'm doing this right I set the mode to gpm, 6 or 3 before starting truck. Then before driving switch 6 or 3 idle to off or gpm is that right or do I need to turn the truck off first? Can you go from off to gpm while truck is running or vise versa?

So now that I plugged everthing back to normal the water temp circuit code is gone but the other code is still there. I was wrong before the code is 0500 speed sensor. So i'm guessing now every time it goes into high idle it will set off the code that there is a high rpm but the truck is not moving. I did the redneck high idle once and used a stick on the pedal and it set off the same code. I would of thought now with the computer doing the high idle it would not set off the code. For the fooler there has to be something wrong with it to mess with the water temp even in the off position.

So the the water temp fooler is for the mpg so if the iat fooler is working the high ldle should still work without the water temp plugged in?

I did the tests I do not have the 3.3 ohms on either plug on the water temp gauge in the on position how ever I do have 0 ohms in the off position. Which doesn't make sense as to why the temp gauge works once I plug it back in stock.

So i unplugged it and now I have temp gauge again now I need to clear the codes. I think there is something wrong with the switch.

I haven't hooked up the power to the light yet. I don't know if that makes a difference.

I picked up my high idle switch yesterday at DAP and had them enable it with a smarty. I tried 6 cylinder and it worked ran it a couple of minutes. This morning I set it to 6 cylinder let run 10 minutes now I have codes. 005 fuel switch and 016 water temperature circuit. I turned it to off when I drove and I noticed my temp gauge stayed off did not move up but my scan gauge II said 180. So what's going on here. I'm at the fire station today when I get a chance i'll go out and under plug it and see if the temp gauge will respond.

So what causes the hard start when hot? Or better said what is damaged when you have low pressure that in turn causes hard starts when hot? My vp44 is a year old it started having hard starts in the summer. My fass has only given me 14 PSI at the most since it was new but since learning more about all this fass sent me a new spring and I'm at up to 18 now. I'm running correct pressure now and have rewired lift pump to kick off during cranking does my vp44 have a shorter life now?

My truck came with the edge mileage max.I started having problems so I unplugged it and it fixed it. Luckily I drive past edge every day so I had them test it. It was bad they offered me an upgrade but I didn't do it yet. I'm not sure if it's worth it. I drove my truck 2 and a half years with it 6 months without and maybe there's a little diference in power and response but I get the same gas mileage as I always have. So i'm not really impressed.I want better gas mileage I tow my camp trailer 3 or 4 times a year.

My truck 01 cummins has been sitting 2 days with block heater plugged in. I'm out side today and I look over and witness a leak just start and drip a good sized puddle. So I investigate and it's coming out of the cap on the power steering. I took off the cap and it's over flowing. Any ideas?

Does anyone have a mod or upgrade to the stupid plastic lock on the rear slide window? Mine slowly pops loose. It doesn't seem very secure to begin with.

While putting on my bhaf I noticed I do have a software update sticker on my pcm on the firewall. So is there a way to take the numbers and find out what the update was?

I knew I needed over 56 so i got a 68 but I didn't pay attention to the K part. I don't claim to be the smartest. I'll go back to radeo shack tomorrow aND get a 56K. I did get my BHAF today and installed it.

So i got a 68 ohm resistor and plugged it into the iat plug, cold engine, I let it run 4 min. And nothing but the check engine light came on immediately. Is that normal for the light to come on. Did I do it right and my high idle is not enabled?