lrhull

My boost is off on my scan guage. It goes to 8 and stops when my ispro gauge goes to 20 at full throttle. I do have a question for gpm does the scan gauge account for idle time and driving. I use the high idle in the mornings and my gpm's are definitely poor in the winter and ok in the summer all I have to say those that claim over twenty gpm on average liar liar pants on fire. 2001. 285 75r16. 4" exhaust. BAAF. Edge mileage max. FASS fuel pump. Ispro gauges. Moparman high ldle gpm kit.

I was just thinking the same thing, air in the system and mabee i need a new radiator cap.

I've ran it with the heater on and off didn't change. In fact the heater is warm but not blazing hot like I remember. I change the thermostat two weeks ago and the heater core and evaperator two months ago. I think the heater air cooler when at idle also.

I changed the thermostat didn't change how it runs.

So I'm running winter fronts in my grill. When moving my temp is at 190 sometimes a few degrees more. But when I stop say at a light the Temps quickly drop to the low 180s. I would think they would stay at 190. I'm thinking the fan is kicking in and cooling things down. So what good is it to have the winter fronts.

Heater core has a leak. Just changed mine for this winter.

So when I got my truck it had a edge mileage max. My injection pump went out in the fall so it was replaced and then the next summer I started having some missing, lack of power, sputter what ever you want to call it and a hard start when starting so I took off the edge mileage max and the sputtering etc went away. I got the hard start fixed by rewiring the lift pump to go off during cranking. Since I drive by edge products every day. I took the mileage max to them. They tested it and said it was bad and offered me a discount on something new. So I've been without for a year and a half now. I really want to get better gas mileage so hooked the miliage max back up and it's been running great for a couple weeks now. Very weird I was told it was bad. Seems to work fine now I think my mileage has improved and I can tell there is little more power then without it. I have the BHAF, high idle mpg kit bigger exhaust, winter fronts, scangauge ii, and I run 2 cycle oil.

Seems like I've had that code before eather when I had many codes pop up when I first ran the high idle kit or when I just needed to clean my battery cables and power going to the grid heater relays. So I would clean and check the battery cables and relays to the grid heaters, clear the codes and see if it comes back. I don't now what I was doing wrong when I first got the high idle kit but I got several error codes. But now I just get the ocasional 0500.

I have scan gauge II. Which I'm glad. 25 to 50 percent of the time when I run high idle I get a cel and need to clear it. It's the 0500 speed sensor. Right side of the computer doesn't tell the left side "hey I'm going to do a high idle so don't worry that we are not moving"

I just changed my heater core and I went ahead and changed the ac evaporator. I have leak somewhere in the ac symtem I haven't taken the time to find yet. I didn't use the ac at all this summer. Winter is coming so I figured I'd wait to spring to fix it. My question is will it hurt anything by leaving it empty with no freon while running the heater and defrost? I've heard that the ac might cycle on when the defost is on.

I put in a needle valve it works great.Thanks.Next job is to take out the dash and fix my ac evap and heater core while I'm in there.

After its been sitting. Took it and towed the camp tailer up to 9000 feet for the weekend. I drove it Wednesday left Friday morning for another vacation and took the car came home Sunday night no leaks never touch it and on Tuesday I went out and found it leaking. Last time it was after it sat about a week also. I generally drive it to work everyday since my daughter drives now and uses the jetta and work is only ten miles so it's rare to sit to long but when it does it leaks. If I remember right it never did it before we were try to get it on the trailer (lift pump went out) and turning the wheels without it running it leaked all over out the cap. I think that might have done something to it it's probably not good to force it around without it running.

I'm assuming you put the needle valve in place if the isolator so you can shut of the fuel if needed. What's the best way to bleed off air at the gauge?

I'm sick of my isolator that goes to my ispro fuel pressure guage. Every so often I get low readings and I have to push back the rubber thingy in the isolator and fill it back up to get it to read right. Would it be safe to eliminate the isolator and have diesel go all the way to the gauge?

Again haven't used the truck this week, been on vacation , and the power steering has leaked out the cap. Very odd. I'm kind of getting used to it happening if I don't use it. I think she's getting back at me for leaving her alone for to many days.

I too have cooler mornings and hot afternoons. I do get better gpm's when the iat's above 100 degrees. But the biggest mpg jump is how I drive. I have a 6 speed. These trucks have a lot of power and it's very tempting to to drive like I'm in a race. I have to remember my trucks is built to tow anything with all that power. If I shift at 1500 rpms and keep it at under 65, 55 is best, I get great gpm average but not high outrageous numbers like some report I think they are lying. I have a scan gauge II that I use.

So my owners manual states the nv5600 is filled by the factory and does not need periodic fluid change. However if you do need to add or change you should use mopar 4874464. I have never changed the fluid. I don't now if previous owner ever changed the fluid. I do have a hard time finding a gear every once and a while and it defenently doesn't shift as easy as the vw jetta. I've thought about changing the fluid but I did that once in our dodge caravan and soon after it crapped out I believe because of changing the fluid. So I can't decide.

I never added any from the last time it did it. I think I will this time it's right at the bottom of the cold mark.

Well I just went outside and my power steering is overflowing again. The pattern I'm seeing the same as last time is the truck has sat for days with no use and a warming up temperature change outside from the last few days of cold.

Mine over flowed a few months back. It hasn't since and I have no idea why.

So i must have a leak if I need to ad the 134a.

All winter I've had the dreaded steamed up oily windows from running my defrost. I just assumed it was the heater core and that's going to be a bear to change. However a friend at work with a 01 cummins has the same problem and thinks it is the ac leaking. We both have some thing leaking from the floor vent. I thought it was dirty antifreeze but he says it's more oily coming from the ac. Sometimes I think it smells like antifreeze but then yet it doesn't. He put in 2 cans of 134 and a stop leak to see if it fixes it. So I remembered I had to charge mine twice last summer. so it was pushing 60 degrees today so I tried my ac it never got cold. So should I try some stop leak or go right to taking out the dash and changing the evaperator and heater coil? Anyone else have the steamed up window problem?

So for those of you using the scan gauge will it clear the codes when you have one? My will read them but will not clear them. It's very frustrating to spend money on something and one of the features of it will no work.

So i figured out if I turn on 6 cylinder then start and warm up then turn switch to off before driving I have no temp guage. But if I turn on 6 cylinder start truck then immediately switch it off then I have a temp gauge even after it high idles. Then before driving i switch to mpg or should I go straight to mpg after starting? when switching to off while running it actually makes the truck Rev up a sec as your turning the nob and sometimes I get 3 cylinder high and I don't think it's that cold out I always have truck plugged in. also sometimes I get the p1291 code but my grid heaters are working. Aim I doing this right when aim I supposed to be turning the switch and what order?

What does the 2 cycle oil do for emissions testing? More difficult to pass or better?