AH64ID

It's pre-camping season and time to start thinking about camper maintenance/mods. I have started acquiring some parts for a major electrical upgrade. My TT came with a cheap group 24 which I immediately sold and put 2 Costco group 24's on the tongue for 170ah. They work alright, but they are a small and cheaper battery. Last year I started my upgrade and will finish it this winter before spring camping. My original problem was the junk WFCO 55A charger would never go into bulk mode, and thus never really give the batteries a good charge when camping. We rarely have hook-ups and are usually miles back into the national forest. I have a pair of EU2000i's, and can recharge quietly but the WFCO would have needed 6-10 hours after 1 cold night of camping to get a decent charge. I did some research and replaced the WFCO with a PD4655 with the built in charge wizard. This made a big difference, the batteries where better charged after 72 hours on shore power while packing and would get to a 90% charge in 2-4 hours depending on the the State of discharge, a vast improvement. Now my issues is inadequate amp hours when it's in the 20's at night. The cold batteries are barely enough for 1 night, and that's with the thermostat at 50 while sleeping. The reason I have group 24's is because that is all that will fit, in fact they barely fit. So the batteries are getting relocated. I have a big dead space near my converter, fridge and furnace (where my pressure tank is currently located, so it will get relocated). Big enough for a pair of 6V's and an inverter. I have picked up a pair of 300ah Lifeline batteries, and a Xantrex 1500w inverter. I have room to build a sealed and vented battery box, and mount the inverter to the outside. I will have about am 18" run to the converter/distribution panel so I do not expect to get any voltage drop during charge or use. This will also keep the batteries warm, increasing their usable amp hours. The inverter is rated at 1500w continuous and 3000w peak, so should do anything I need to do while not on shore power. Xantrex also makes an inline transfer relay, that will automatically switch from inverter power to shore power in 30us. The camper has 2 110c circuits that power all the outlets, but not the microwave, or A/C so I shouldn't have any issues (I will have to switch the Fridge power to a different breaker). A single EU2000i is rated at 1800w continuous, and that is always plenty for the little stuff. There are 2 outlets on the inverter, so 2 inline transfer relays will work great. The inverter also comes with a remote on/off switch, which will get mounted on the panel with the volt meter, ammeter, and battery switch. I think it will give me a lot of usable power and convince. My TT came with a small solar panel, but at 10w it's not good for much but battery tending between trips. I looked at converter chargers, but for the total overall cost I decided to increase the battery quality instead, as cold nights are my biggest concern. http://www.xantrex.com/power-products/power-inverters/xpower-inverters-high-power.aspx http://www.xantrex.com/power-products/default/inline-transfer-relay.aspx http://www.lifelinebatteries.com/rvflyer.php?id=15 http://www.progressivedyn.com/pd4600_converter_replacement.html This is where the rest of the switches and monitors will go. I also ordered up 2 104 LED lights with low/hi. I wasn't getting enough lumens out of the cheap Chinese LED's. They are fine in most places, but I need more light in a few places.

Are they new or reman injectors? The priming procedure is below, but essentially it is self priming and if it starts it's primed. STANDARD PROCEDURE - FUEL SYSTEM PRIMING A certain amount of air becomes trapped in the fuel system when fuel system components on the supply and/or high-pressure side are serviced or replaced. Fuel system priming is accomplished using the electric fuel transfer (lift) pump. Servicing or replacing fuel system components will not require fuel system priming. The fuel transfer (lift) pump is self-priming: When the key is first turned on (without cranking engine), the pump operates for approximately 1 to 2 second and then shuts off (Note: When ambient temperatures are cold enough to cause the intake air heaters to operate, the fuel lift pump will operate during the entire intake air pre-heat cycle). The pump will also operate for up to 25 seconds after the starter is quickly engaged, and then disengaged without allowing the engine to start. The pump shuts off immediately if the key is on and the engine stops running. 1. Turn key to CRANK position and quickly release key to ON position before engine starts. This will operate fuel transfer pump for approximately 25 seconds. 2. Crank engine. If the engine does not start after 25 seconds, turn key to OFF position, and leave it off for at least 5 seconds. Repeat previous step until engine starts. 3. Fuel system priming is now completed. 4. Attempt to start engine. If engine will not start, proceed to following steps. When engine does start, it may run erratically and be noisy for a few minutes. This is a normal condition. CAUTION: Do not engage the starter motor for more than 30 seconds at a time. Allow two minutes between cranking intervals. 5. Perform previous fuel priming procedure steps using fuel transfer pump. Be sure fuel is present at fuel tank. 6. Crank the engine for 30 seconds at a time to allow fuel system to prime.

It doesn't matter what catches the cardboard, the prefilter or screen, the fuel flow will be effected. Do you have a psi gauge?

More info is needed. Does he tow/haul? Looking for street performance, strip? How big does he want to go on the twins? You buy a turbo for your needs, not change your needs to match a turbo.

I wouldn't add anything. The first filter on the pump is on the vacuum side, so the pump will never see debris.

You will be very happy with the injectors, I love mine!!

Sounds normal, and its an indication there is too much traction for the 4wd and without slippage it will bind and pop. A pop/clunk without a hop could mean u-joint, but the hop is telling me it's binding.

You must have drove REALLY hard, or slip a lot at startup. Unless the hp demands a DD I don't recommend it, they are noisy... much nosier than most realize.

A larger turbo takes more exhaust to drive and spool, at cruise their is insufficient exhaust so there is less airflow from the compressor. This leads to less air in the cylinder and a hotter burn. The highest sustained EGT's I have seen was doing 65-67 at 5-6K feet, towing a TT at 18K combined on a 80° day with a 30mph headwind. I was running 1150-1175° continuous.

The CON-OHD is a great clutch, and I would have bought it if it was available when I bought my OFE.

In stock form they will hit 1450° WOT towing or racing, but they run about 600-800° cruising. Cruise at 1100°-1400° is NOT normal. The turbo is bigger, which means it's harder to light and get the flow moving. That size turbo is good for street driving and such, but runs hot when towing and cruising. Bigger turbos generally run hotter at cruise and partial throttle, and once additional fuel is given they run cooler. Even with the cam a 14cm housing is not good for cruise/light towing EGT's, it needs fuel to keep cool. Anytime you tune a 04.5-07 with a tuner that adds timing your safe EGT number decreases, as you are putting more heat into the piston and less into the exhaust. I personally use 1250° as my max continuous and 1300° as my momentary max.. that's on a truck that would see 1450° stock.

Those idle temps seem close, so not ruling it out yet. 1000° could just be the loose turbo and high exhaust flow of the cam combined with the tuner, but 1400° is too hot.

They are quite different visually, so you probably would have noticed. What do your EGT's read at idle? Do you have an IR thermometer you can see the temp of the manifold with?

Just to clarify it's 20% TPS, not 20% engine load? At various rpms 20% throttle can be a variety of fueling parameters with different duration, pressure, timing, etc.. so if it is injectors that doesn't make sense. I would expect an injector to have issues at a certain volume/pressure which to me it sounds like your not having. I hope something is wrong with your pyro, if you went back with stock pistons (assuming you did since you have stock sticks) they are not very fond of EGT's. Now that brings up another point, what pistons are in it? This needs to be verified, did the rebuilder use 03-04 pistons or 04.5-07 pistons. Nothing wrong with 03-04 pistons in a 04.5-07 as long as the nozzles match (this is what I run and its MUCH stronger and more efficient than the 04.5-07 piston).

Is the pop constant as long as your at 20% throttle? If not how long does it last? Does it vary in duration and intensity? Is it the same at 1500 rpms as it is at 2500 rpms? Is the 20% throttle based on an OBDII output number or your guess? 1000°-1400° EGT's at cruise? Something isn't right! Was it that way before the rebuild? What are they WOT? How much boost? How much boost when it pops? 160# springs? That is VERY heavy for a 24V motor, did you line bore the cam journals for bushings? The Hamilton springs are 103#. Coffman Customs is in Texas and deals in BBi Injectors, nothing beats them.

The winter front does help initial warmup time, but not as much as it helps sustaining the temperature. So don't look for miracles in a 10 mile drive, that being said covering the intercooler wouldn't be a bad idea, as even on a cold motto the turbo is increasing the discharge temp a little and you might as well put that heat into the engine and engine bay.

From Dodge, I am not sure if they make one for 98-02 or not.

You want the IATs to go up, but not too high. Look at the OEM 3rd gen cover, it can block everything and will increase temps quick if you try to tow or drive too fast. Even on a -20 deg day you cannot have all 4 flaps closed at 65 for more than a few miles. 95% of the time I close 3/4 flaps.

Does it drop below 190 while moving or stationary?

Not a bad price, but I am not sure you will get what you want out of them. They can put about 3.75 amps peak into the batteries, meaning it would take about 16 hours to bring them up from 70% (assuming 100ah group 27s). With the panal being moveable you will get a longer charging day, which will help. On a cool night we get to 60% with just the furnace, our lights are all led. I have 2 group 24's rated at ~85ah (for now, a pair of 300ah 6's are going in). I looked into solar 2 years ago and the cost was just too great for enough charging power to rule out a generator. I have a 10w panel and it does allow me to run the stereo without draining the batteries during the middle of the day, but even a battery charger on a 100w inverter makes a big drop. 45w would be nice in the summer, when the furnace isn't used.

It might be needed depending on how the full lift was achieved.

As others have said I would steer clear of edge, especially stacking.

A cummins 190 will open at 187-193, it's not full open until 207 and has a max allowed of 225. I know I can, and will, hold 215 pulling big grades while towing on on a hot day. The 07.5-09 6.7 uses the same 190 as the 03-07 5.9. The 200 wasn't OEM until the 2010 model year. The thermostats should be interchangeable from 98.5-current, but I can't find anything that shows that. I know for sure they are compatible from 98.5-09. The head may have changed in 2010, but I don't recall reading about it, and I known 2010 guys are dropping in 180s and 190s from earlier trucks. The early 6.7 is the same as your 5.9, sounds like NAPA sold you the wrong thermostat.

It just seems rare to find an issue, aside from age, with a Cummins thermostat. Plenty of issues with all the others. Why is that? They might not allow the company that makes them build ones for 3rd party sales to the same standard, or specs. It could be part of the contract.

The why do the NAPA ones have issues and the Cummins don't? It seems that there are plenty of threads about non-Cummins thermostats having issues. Heck the stock valve springs and my 103# valve springs look the same, but we know they aren't. What's to say that the spring isn't different between Napa and Cummins?