AH64ID

Your forgetting that it quite often happens to compleaty stock trucks. One of the reasons for the steering change in 08.5 was death wobble. Adding larger tires doesn't change the geometry, it physically can't. It does add larger sidewalls that may be softer, and take more force but the movement angles (geometry) isn't changed.

I still moves in the factory arc, nothing put of spec. It's no different than if you drove around with 1K in the bed and 1K on a hitch, the front goes up. Or a truck with a hemi. My brothers 06 hemi sits as high, or higher, than my truck. Not really a valid argument, more of trying to create an issue where there isn't one. It's the kits that move things away from the factory arc that can cause issues.

Steering box braces make a huge difference, quite happy I run one.

I have had a leveling kit on my truck since I bought it, actually was installed before I even showed up to the dealership at my request. I started with a 2" level, and didn't like how much pressure I had to put in the bags when towing so I dropped to a 1" a few years back. I have never had a hint of death wobble, nor has my dad with 110k miles on a 2" level. There are plenty of cases of stock trucks with DW, and I do recall BFG AT's being a commonality as well. Trac bar bushings, ball joints, and tie rods need to be checked as well as the steering damper.

Fuel at the non-blended pumps is generally winterized for the local climate, and ramps up as winter comes in. That's why unseasonably cold weather early in the winter can cause gelling issues. I normally add anti-gel starting with elk hunting in October into December, them just pump diesel. If I am going somewhere a lot colder I'll dose it. I also keep 5 gals of #1 in the garage, and 2 bottles of diesel rescue in the tool box (1 in the summer). I do run amsoil diesel concentrate every tank, and will occasionally add a cetane boost. While cetane does reduce BTUSs it does help cold weather starting and low fuel flow ignition. If I am going to spends a lot of the miles at slow speeds and low load I'll add 3 points worth of additive. It does make a difference.

Yeah no tuners for 2013, but the SCR setup is slick. The need to delete is minimal compared to a 07.5-12, and the mileage is as good as a deleted truck.

Yeah, and an extra gear between 1st and direct.

I wonder if that's the difference in gearing? The 6.7 I drove was a manual and felt nearly identical to my truck in stock form above 2000 and a little softer below.

Interesting. Something must have been done to it, the stock 6.7 just doesn't have the power and has more tq management. You had about 125/250 more flywheel power if it truly was stock.

On a 8500 lb truck you need a hard compound traction tire, or they are only good for 20K miles. I found mixed reviews on the DH01, and they are more money from Schwab. I don't rcall any bad M608z reviews.

The universal kit comes with multiple inserts and sleeves for a variety of shifters, including ours.

Your hard wood is making me so hot n sweaty....

Run 2 valves. One for cab vs saddle, and then run another to chose the saddle tank.

We go 8 years out here, and I get nervous and look at it about every 6 months since it's been so long since I got one. The CWL has me more nervous, which reminds me I need to look again. I really don't want that one to expire and IIRC it's a 5 year interval. I really wish they would combine them.

You can get your own! I actually really like the feel. My mom asked dad to put one in his 06 after driving mine, but the G56 shifter has a different angle. I would let mine get about 90deg off and fix it. I did that 4 or 5 times before going to the pistol grip. I bought one about 5 years back, the switch felt cheaper than it should have. I ended up installing the pistol grip and selling the genos's one. I did contemplate keeping it and installing it on the transfer case shifter for backup lights but I added a 3" extension to the shifter and it's not hollow so it would be a PITA to run a wire thru.

I am not sure on the filtration, Cummins wants at least 30um full flow and 10um bypass. With modern oils it is very hard to keep all the soot out of the oil, even with a bypass. Soot is generally what kills oil pre 2007, and fuel post 2007. CJ oils also run a lower TBN number, because they plan on the oil being fuel diluted prior to out of TBN so why make it high TBN when it's not needed.

I called Schwab and had them order the tires, I have an appt on the 3rd for tires and an alignment check.

I like synthetic for a couple of reasons, it clings better so dry starts aren't as hard and has better high temperature stability which is good for modified engines. Even my new Dino 15w-40 Premium Blue builds oil pressure slower than used Amsoil 15w-40, the quicker the pressure the better. I also prefer to run a CI oil, and I don't believe there are any dino CI oils left. Dino CJ-4 oil is barely adequate on ZDDP for flat tappet cams, and some of the cheaper CJ's just don't cut it. The OEM fill is now synthetic as well. Something I thought was interesting is that the bottle of Valvoline Premium Blue says it's approved for 5,000 miles on Cummins yet the Cummins change interval is longer??? Premium Blue is a formulation developed with Cummins. I will be running Premium Blue for the first 9K miles on the motor, with a ZDDP additive, and then switch back to Amsoil AME CI-4+ oil.

There are several OEM aluminum wheels, I have one set that has solid spokes, I think forged, and one set that has the back of the spokes shaped like a bowl (those are obviously lighter) which I believe are cast. My truck came from the factory with Steel Wheels, they weigh 42lbs and the OEM 265/70R17 LTX's weigh 48lbs so my OEM weight was 90 lbs. I swapped to OEM forged aluminum wheels and best I can tell they are 24.5 lbs, with my 255/80R17 KM2's at 54lbs for a total weight of 78.5lbs. I also run the cast alum OEM wheels with OEM tires for my summer setup, those wheels are 28.2lbs for a total of 76.2lbs. The new setup will be 45lbs for the wheel and 79 for the tire, for a total of 124lbs. A 37% increase over stock, and a 57% increase over what I run now. Nearly all accounts are that the rolling resistance is enough lower that the increase in unsprung weight doesn't decrease economy, and generally mileage improves. As far as the weight on the wheel bearings, and ball joints I don't think it's an issue either. The balljoints are already Dynatrac's, and the front wheel bearings are a bit bigger with the Spin Free, and spaced better to handle the weight. In doing some research it seems the bearings used on the Yukon kit are also used on the rear of some F-450's...

Merry Christmas!!!

Congrats on the new truck!What cab, bed config? How many miles? What trans? Pics?Amazing how these trucks hold their value, in Nov 2007 whole I was picking up my truck I priced a new 2008 QC LB 3500 SRW SLT G56 and it was 33 or 35K. Make sure it has the upgraded 3um nanonet fuel filter.

http://photobucket.com/albums/j156/ah64id/trucks/Cummins/rebuild

MY is model year, something I have seen used on multiple platforms recently. I'm in the army, everything has a TLA. (3 letter acronym).

Just seeing this thread. The programming is based on a 190 thermostat, meaning the fan operation is also based on that. Running a 200 and not towing shouldn't be an issue, but of you do any towing you will have a lot of fan on I time. 100% fan is commanded somewhere around 215, and a 200 thermostat is going to be full open around 215-217, and like 225 when very heavy. I would really like to run a 200, but the programming isn't there. I will add that if you have heat issues with a 190 then a 200 won't fix them, you have other issues like a plugged heater core. I get plenty of hot air in the cab at -25. I do highly recommend a winter front.