AH64ID

When I ran a 30wt synthetic I didn't run as heavy as I do now, and did a lot more empty driving, my UOA showed more wear than I have ever seen with 40wt synthetic and more hp/towing. They do work for some people, but not for me.

On my 33" KM2's they stay butter smooth all the way down. You cannot tell they are there, other than the smooth running tires. They are enough better balanced that they are actually quieter at 70. One of the other dynamic balance companies, balance masters, states that they even help with braking as the deceleration force pushes the weight to the bottom (gyroscopic procession I am guessing).

Cummins actually has criteria for acceptable 30wt oils in the ISB, I have ran a 30wt and didn't like the UOA so I stick to 40wt.

Correct, from speeds of about 20mph and up.

I filled up for the first time today, of the 468 miles on the tank 405 are the new engine. The 63 on the old engine was probably about 14-15 mpg based on what I normally get on that dirt road. The entire tank was 14.4, which included 70 miles of towing (empty flatbed for 50 of them, 21-22K GCW the other 20), plenty of idle time (cam break in, leak checks, etc), and it's been COLD! So I guess 14.4 is pretty good for a new engine and how the tank was used.

Valvoline makes a Premium Blue Extreme that is designed for lower temps. It is possible to put oil out the turbo and not get any smoke/smell. Rotella is known to stink, so that may be nothing.

The centramatics are installed with my KM2's and work great, I've only been up to 70 but very smooth.Pics to follow, same wight the rebuild.. Just need to find time to take some more and go thru the rest.

Easy is good!

Nice to have a spare. Can you adjust the pressure on that pump? I would drop it to 15 at idle if you can. That's why your pressure increases, it's showing you the restriction of the cold fuel in the filter. Monitoring the pressure just before the CP3 would show a drop in pressure with cold fuel. I see a 1-3 psi drop with cold fuel, and can tell when the fuel heaters get everything warmed up as the pressure comes back up. Why did you choose to put your sensor pre-filter? Not wrong, just not common.

Wheels are here! They are some beefy wheels for sure. Not sure when the tires will get mounted, but I am going to test fit the front centramics today.

I got to thinking this morning that this would also sell for 3rd gens, mainly 2003 trucks and 2010+ manual transmission trucks. No programming needed, just tell the ECM the coolant is below 180, and that it's below freezing out and it will work. It will take 2 minutes, but better than nothing for the warmer months. Just a thought. Not only that but if the engine is warm the exhaust brake won't function when any fuel is being injected, you don't want it to.

I tried for a long time to get people to use the proper terminology, it was a losing battle. It's really a fast idle kit....

Yeah I plan to work on that before I take the truck in.

The Centramatics are here and UPS is scheduled to drop off the wheels tomorrow!!! It will probably be around the first of the year that I go get the new tires installed.

Nice score! Where did you get them? I got mine for just a hair more than that, with lug nuts and extra center caps for my hubs. I looked at the DH01 and the M608Z, from my research the M608Z is a better tire but 1400 is pretty good. Who has that price? That is less that I was quoted at several places for 4 of them.

A Smarty would be a good Christmas gift anyhow.....

It will make the axle differentiate, but nothing worse than a truck with CAD spinning the front axle funny when not engaged.

It has to be a 2nd Gen Smarty since you program and then de-program the truck.

Aside from the stock injectors these are all I have ran, but there is a VERY big difference.

So as of today I have about 320 miles on the setup, and there is nothing but good things to say. Clean, clean, clean! There is no smoke, and the puff at large power changes isn't really even thick enough to call smoke, its more like a light gray fog. At WOT there is no haze, smoke, or anything. These are all good indicators of a clean efficient burn thanks to the BBi's and improved piston design. The single biggest indicator of a clean burn is the exhaust brake. On my old setup after a 20 minute drive without the exhaust brake (or increased EGT's of towing) I would get a puff of smoke on EB activation from the soot accumulation on the brake and wall of the elbow, I don't even get a wisp of smoke now.. absolutely none. Fuel mileage is hard to say, it looks good but the warmest I have seen since the install in 21° and with the duration map changes I cannot even begin to guess at the overhead error. I probably wont have good fuel mileage numbers until it warms up. Power is great, it comes on smooth and pulls very well. I plan to dyno it in February to verify/obtain the 300 rwhp at 2000 rpms. UDC has really made this all possible, my timing and duration map look nothing like any of the sample files.

This thread will be about tuning a late CR with early CR pistons and BBi Stage 1's. Truck: 2005 5.9L QCLB 3500 SRW NV5600 4x4 3.73's Pertinent Mods: BBi Stage 1 for MY03, QSB480 pistons, Hamilton 178/208 cam, Garrett GT3782R, rest in sig. Tuning: Smarty S-06 Revo UDC. Truck Use: In the summer it tows the camper around for plenty of family trips (17-19k GCW), and in the fall/winter it's used for hunting (lots of slow speed driving) and playing in the snow. It's not my DD. It sees a LOT of dirt/gravel, towing and not towing, as well as pulling steep grades loaded and unloaded. The truck weighs about 8,500 loaded for winter. My previous dyno/tune net me 415/850 corrected and that is where I plan to tune the new setup to, peak hp may go up but I am shooting for 300 rwhp at 2,000 rpms. It works well for how I use the truck and I rarely have to worry about EGT's when towing up 6%+ grades, unless it's 85 deg at 6,000 feet plus. Thanks to the stock injector flow sheets that Brian provided I was able to compare the flow of the MY03 BBi Stage 1's to the OEM MY04.5 nozzles at 3 pressures from 0-2000us (3626, 14503, 23206). What I noticed right off the bat is the BBi's flow very similar to OEM nozzles at low pressure and pulse width. That's a GREAT thing because that means the idle, cruise, and low power tuning is smoother and more likely to be smoke free. I think I was able to find the point where the injectors start increasing their flow, and when they do they are very uniform in the added flow. This again really helps the duration map adjustment, especially since I am decreasing duration to keep the same amount of fuel being burned as previous. So I am sure people are going to wonder why I spent the money on BBi's when I plan to cut the fuel to not increase power, well the ability to cut the fuel is a big reason. In addition to cutting fuel the BBi's have a great reputation on quality, and that's something I wanted. I needed to swap nozzles at a minimum and couldn't see spending money on OEM injectors with 93K miles on them, even thou they tested near perfect. It just made sense to give these a shot, both in the tuning and the longevity/efficiency departments. Okay, back to cutting duration. I feel this is a GOOD thing, and provides many benefits. My research has shown me that peak pressure should occur 12 - 15 ATDC, but there is no way to measure it. By using less injector open time I can reduce the timing, which reduces negative torque (combustion prior to TDC, nearly impossible to not have and still make peak pressure at the desired point), and it reduces stress on the cylinder head bolts/studs/gasket. I should be able to get a short, hi flow injection that burns quicker and more efficient than a longer pulse for the same fuel. A shorter pulse width also means that the injector will be open less time ATDC, and hopefully create peak pressure at the desired point. While it still makes power having the injector open after 12-15 doesn't make the motor as efficient as it could. The other thing I plan to do is drop peak rail pressure from 23,206 to 21,756. I personally don't feel that the 1450 less psi will effect atomization, and thus combustion efficiency, but it will reduce the parasitic drag on the CP3 putting more power to the flywheel. This lower peak pressure will also reduce wear in the CP3 and injectors. The main reason many tuners increase rail pressure is to inject more fuel in the same amount of time, which reduces the need for a lot of timing. Since I am already able to cut my duration by quite a bit the additional 50-75us required to get the desired fuel injected isn't a big deal since I will already be reducing my WOT pulse width by 500-600us. I have peeked at the MY03 stock files, but their pilot is smaller so the timing (especially at idle) isn't going to be apple to apples with a MY04.5 ECM. Some of the timing difference MY03 vs MY0.45 are hardware, some are pilot, and most are emissions. This is an example of the difference in timing and duration for my previous tune and the BBi's. Values are removed, and this was my initial tune and the values have changed, but not much.

Yes it is quite a bit. There are 19.5" tires that can hold more than 4500 lbs, but the capacity isn't needed on these trucks. With 9,000lbs on the rear axle I am only 350lbs under the RAWR of a DRW truck, and the heaviest I have ever been is 7480 lbs. That's acceptable, the tires have a speed rating of 75 and I rarely even drive that fast except for a quick passing run.

Those look great!

After several years of wanting to go this route I finally pulled the trigger.On a normal camping trip I am between 5800-6500 on the rear axle, generally at 6000 with careful loading. Since I have 6390 lbs worth of tire I have been wanting more "buffer" room, short of a few tires there are really few options for more than 3195 lbs/tire in 17".Additionally LT tires are too soft, and tire life was dismal at best with how/where I use my truck, mainly where... lots of dirt and towing on dirt. I really don't get more than 25K useful miles out of a set of tires.This is why I started researching 19.5s a few years back. They are plenty strong, the wheels are strong and the rubber is hard enough they should last at least 60K miles.I ordered my wheels yesterday. I went with the Vision Type 81 cast aluminum, 19.5x7.5" rated at 4,500 lbs. I went with the black ones, and ordered 5. They should be here next week.For tires I will be going with Toyo M608Z in 245/70R19.5 LRG tires rated for 4,540 @ 80 psi. They are a 33" tire and roll at 624 rev/mile, 1 rev/mile different than my winter tires and should improve 5th gear towing while and empty cruise in 6th.I also have a set of Centramatic wheel balances on the way, as well as a set for the travel trailer.More to follow when they get mounted around the new year.