AH64ID

The 2nd gen noise, and likely the injector tapping noise, is timing rattle. What is your mileage doing? I'd expect its getting worse the more timing you add at this point.

Those should work. I've never used either brand thou. MOOG has a bad reputation on 3rd gens but 2nd gen guys seem to like them. Make sure that the springs come with everything you need, such as bushings and u-bolts.

The airbags will still work, but you'll need less air in them. I'd get middle of the run, cost wise, regular duty springs. For the best load handling characteristics you want to let the rear sag 1-2" and hold it there with the airbags.

How are you prefilling your filter? Virgin oil is dirtier than you think and it's generally not recommended to prefill a filter, unless you take your time for it to soak outside in. If you're filling the center you're pushing dirty oil thru your motor and it can cause excessive wear. It takes a lot of burning oil to see it in the exhaust, more than 1qt per 1K miles.

Yes that's a 3/1 setup.

Doesn't matter... but may as well show us the busted side.

That's right... I forgot that the Dana 70 requires a different carrier when going lower than 4.10. Have you ever wanted a locker or limited slip? Now is the time to buy it.

For occasional towing they will be fine, but they won’t give you the street or highway advantage of 4.88’s. What’s your hesitation on the 4.88’s?

Do you have a photo of your rear spring pack?

The level is is why your tires almost touch the bumper, as it moves the axle aft with the stock control arms. A lower leveling kit would actually make more clearance between the cab and tires.

If it's still going to see a lot of weight on a regular basis I would consider removing the 2.5" level. It takes a LOT of air in the airbags to support a high GVW when you want it to stay level and the ride suffers a great deal. If you still want somewhat of a leveled look then consider a Top Gun Customz 1" level spacer. Aside from aftermarket springs, such as Alcan or Deaver I am not sure where to look.

Could you have missed installed a spring isolater when installing the leveling kit? Salvage yard springs may not be any better than what you currently have. Do you have a local spring shop? 4 new springs is a replacement for all of the springs. If 2 are sagged out the other 2 are likely worn out as well.

I think he is trying to determine the axle itself, not the gears. Should be a Dana 60 front and a Dana 70U rear, IIRC.

I'd still wait and see. I believe the comment about them being too small was made in reference to your ability to light the turbo.. that should be a fixed issue with lower gearing. From there see what your cruise and peak EGT's are, as well as towing.

I am willing to bet all 4 (one spring per corner) of your springs are sagged, with the drivers side being the worst. If you just replace the drivers side springs then it will likely sit higher than the passenger side. If you want your truck to sit level side to side I would look into 4 new springs. I also wouldn't buy the cheapest spring you can find, or you'll be back in this same boat in much less than 20 years.

The way I read your posts you assume the amount of oil being lost due to the amount drained at the change. That tells me you are running 3-4 qts low at the end... keep putting this off and it's not an oil pan gasket you'll be fixing, it will be a motor rebuild. With only 2 gallons of oil in the motor the first thing you'll likely do is damage the wrist pin bushings from excessive heat. That will cause piston slop and you'll score the cylinder walls. 3-4 quarts of leaking oil is a LOT of oil. Do you have a HUGE mess on the bottom of the motor? How are you pre-filling the oil filter?

All they do is move the axle in the fore-aft axis. 4 new springs is likely what you need to correct it.

While there are twin turbos that use 2 S300 sized turbos I do no think that a 364 is large enough to be a primary for a 5.9L. I would get the 4.88's installed and see how it drives, and then go from there.

The adjustable mounting bolts on the control arms are for alignment and will not have any effect on the ride height. My guess is that after 20 year the heavier drivers side has sagged the springs more and now it rides low. Has it ever been in an accident? It could be a tweaked frame, but spring sag is more likely.

500hp puts you into DD territory. I'd look for a 4 surface organic DD. I can't recall if SBC makes one, but I know that Valair does.

I'll have to talk with Peter and see when it was re-designed. I've talked to him several times about the O-FE in my truck, and those discussions are why we went with the O-HD in dads's 06. I installed mine in May of 2011, and I just now have 65K on it.

When did you get your second one? When I bought mine in 2011 the O-FE had just gone under a major revision. When did you get your O-FE? I assume it should work. I'm running the OEM flywheel and I can use it with a O-FE or O-HD.

Are you on your 2nd O-FE?

The G56 is already more prone to gear rollover noise with the aluminum case and the OHD has less rollover noise at low rpm than my NV5600, and by quite a bit. In talking with SBC it's the design of the clutchs and the dampening springs. Since I've gotten a few miles, towing, empty, etc, on a O-HD I haven't made a recommendation for the O-FE. The O-HD has plenty of rating for a single turbo tow tune and it's that much better, IMHO. Thru tuning I have been able to get rid of a lot of the transmission noise on my O-FE, but it's still there at certain rpms and loads. When I run a stock tune it's horrible.

Smoother and quieter.